Break-in period and comfort mode
12-28-2004, 05:03 AM
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Break-in period and comfort mode
Well, I've had my new C230 SS for a couple days now and have put 150 miles on it. 
This evening I got around to reading part of the owner's manual. For the breakin period it states to put your car in comfort mode for the first 1000 miles. I have had it in sport mode and reached 4000RPM once on accident, but usually stay around 3000RPM.
I will now drive in comfort mode for 850 miles. Did everyone here do the comfort mode routine for their breakin period? Or did you not even worry about the breakin period?
I want sooo bad to push the car harder.
This evening I got around to reading part of the owner's manual. For the breakin period it states to put your car in comfort mode for the first 1000 miles. I have had it in sport mode and reached 4000RPM once on accident, but usually stay around 3000RPM.
I will now drive in comfort mode for 850 miles. Did everyone here do the comfort mode routine for their breakin period? Or did you not even worry about the breakin period?
I want sooo bad to push the car harder.
Last edited by Bens-Benz; 12-28-2004 at 06:07 AM.
12-28-2004, 09:03 AM
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2003 C230K Sport Coupe, 1986 190E 2.3
I have driven mine the same since day one. I was a little more gentle on it during the first few hundred miles then ran it to redling once in a while for the next few, then by 600-700 miles I drove it like I stole it. My engine eats about 1/2 quart of oil every 10,000 miles and no other issues engine wise....
12-28-2004, 06:20 PM
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2005 C230 SS
Break in period??
I have 400 miles on my car and I have had my car on "sport" mode since I got it. My salesman actually told me to always leave it on "sport" mode and that it does not make a difference...how much longer should I wait till I start really driving it??..
I hate having soccer moms fly past me
Is there a certain speed I should not go over as well??
I have only barely hit 4000 RPM once or twice and I can't wait till I could drive normally...
I hate having soccer moms fly past me
Is there a certain speed I should not go over as well??
I have only barely hit 4000 RPM once or twice and I can't wait till I could drive normally...
12-29-2004, 12:41 AM
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only 750 miles to go. 
I am driving for any reason so I can get to 1000 miles and open it up. I still drive sporty but only on the suspension side of things. I also do alot of city driving so I go to 4000RPM alot and back down.
I am driving for any reason so I can get to 1000 miles and open it up. I still drive sporty but only on the suspension side of things. I also do alot of city driving so I go to 4000RPM alot and back down.
Last edited by Bens-Benz; 12-29-2004 at 12:44 AM.
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12-30-2004, 05:50 PM
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2005 c230 Sport Sedan
Bens,
I now have 3,300 miles on my 05 SS. For the first 1,000 miles I drove mine in "C" at various speeds. I made sure I did not rev the rpm's high on starts off the line. During that time I too had soccer moms pass me as well as old people on larks along the sidewalk. At 3,000 miles I drove 120 m.p.h for about 5 miles in "S" with no problem at all. After my 1st checkup my service manager said everything looked great. Everyone has their own ideas how to break an engine in and this is mine. After all is said and done, you are driving a Mercedes, so what's the rush? You have sport and luxury.
I now have 3,300 miles on my 05 SS. For the first 1,000 miles I drove mine in "C" at various speeds. I made sure I did not rev the rpm's high on starts off the line. During that time I too had soccer moms pass me as well as old people on larks along the sidewalk. At 3,000 miles I drove 120 m.p.h for about 5 miles in "S" with no problem at all. After my 1st checkup my service manager said everything looked great. Everyone has their own ideas how to break an engine in and this is mine. After all is said and done, you are driving a Mercedes, so what's the rush? You have sport and luxury.
12-30-2004, 06:55 PM
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EuroCharged 2012 C63 BS Coupè
Just my two cents, but my first MOD was to remove that "Break-in" window sticker!!
Mercedes and AMG program the ECU to be very forgiving with high tolerence for average drivers. ie: a non enthusiast that might not follow service schedules, might use low grade fuel and otherwise not take good care of the vehicle. This is why companies like Kleemann and Renntech can squeeze extra HP by chipping alone.
This also relates to the easy break-in outlined in the user manual. this breaks in the motor in a way that if the service schedule is not followed, poor grade fuel used or general abuse, there are pre existing tolerences in place to protect the motor.
"Spare the rod and spoil the child"
If you are an enthusiast, drive as you would normally right from the start. The first 40 Klm are the most important. Hard, steady acceleration in second and third gears to a high rev (5 to 6K RPM repeatedly) is critical to seat the piston rings solidly.
It is VERY important to let the engine warm to full operating temp and then run the first few minutes at moderate loads as to let the tranny fluid temp to catch up as well. The tranny needs to seat and seal over the first 1000 miles/1600 km. This will produce a smooth, responsive and very tight engine that will stay that way. Still follow the recommended scheduled first oil/filter change and away you go.....
I'm not saying to go racing the first weekend but if you drive hard and smoothly through the gears right out of the gate you can expect to maintain top torque and HP numbers for the life of the engine. Follow the "recommended" break in and expect a 10 to 15 HP drop and for sure, lots of "cylinder blow by" in the years to come.
I have been breaking in engines (both high performance and stock) this way for years and its never let me down.
The program came to me from a Mercedes factory driver back in the 1980's and he still maintains the method (and still works for MB).
I hope this helps
Mercedes and AMG program the ECU to be very forgiving with high tolerence for average drivers. ie: a non enthusiast that might not follow service schedules, might use low grade fuel and otherwise not take good care of the vehicle. This is why companies like Kleemann and Renntech can squeeze extra HP by chipping alone.
This also relates to the easy break-in outlined in the user manual. this breaks in the motor in a way that if the service schedule is not followed, poor grade fuel used or general abuse, there are pre existing tolerences in place to protect the motor.
"Spare the rod and spoil the child"
If you are an enthusiast, drive as you would normally right from the start. The first 40 Klm are the most important. Hard, steady acceleration in second and third gears to a high rev (5 to 6K RPM repeatedly) is critical to seat the piston rings solidly.
It is VERY important to let the engine warm to full operating temp and then run the first few minutes at moderate loads as to let the tranny fluid temp to catch up as well. The tranny needs to seat and seal over the first 1000 miles/1600 km. This will produce a smooth, responsive and very tight engine that will stay that way. Still follow the recommended scheduled first oil/filter change and away you go.....
I'm not saying to go racing the first weekend but if you drive hard and smoothly through the gears right out of the gate you can expect to maintain top torque and HP numbers for the life of the engine. Follow the "recommended" break in and expect a 10 to 15 HP drop and for sure, lots of "cylinder blow by" in the years to come.
I have been breaking in engines (both high performance and stock) this way for years and its never let me down.
The program came to me from a Mercedes factory driver back in the 1980's and he still maintains the method (and still works for MB).
I hope this helps
12-30-2004, 10:44 PM
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2002 C230 Coupe(M111)
Drive it like you stole it. New engines are machined to such tight tolerances today that break in periods of the past no longer exist. The only thing that needs to "break in" is the rings. If there really was a break in period they would drain the oil after 500 or 1000 miles .
12-30-2004, 10:53 PM
#12
Originally Posted by NORTH 44 C55
Just my two cents, but my first MOD was to remove that "Break-in" window sticker!!
Mercedes and AMG program the ECU to be very forgiving with high tolerence for average drivers. ie: a non enthusiast that might not follow service schedules, might use low grade fuel and otherwise not take good care of the vehicle. This is why companies like Kleemann and Renntech can squeeze extra HP by chipping alone.
This also relates to the easy break-in outlined in the user manual. this breaks in the motor in a way that if the service schedule is not followed, poor grade fuel used or general abuse, there are pre existing tolerences in place to protect the motor.
"Spare the rod and spoil the child"
If you are an enthusiast, drive as you would normally right from the start. The first 40 Klm are the most important. Hard, steady acceleration in second and third gears to a high rev (5 to 6K RPM repeatedly) is critical to seat the piston rings solidly.
It is VERY important to let the engine warm to full operating temp and then run the first few minutes at moderate loads as to let the tranny fluid temp to catch up as well. The tranny needs to seat and seal over the first 1000 miles/1600 km. This will produce a smooth, responsive and very tight engine that will stay that way. Still follow the recommended scheduled first oil/filter change and away you go.....
I'm not saying to go racing the first weekend but if you drive hard and smoothly through the gears right out of the gate you can expect to maintain top torque and HP numbers for the life of the engine. Follow the "recommended" break in and expect a 10 to 15 HP drop and for sure, lots of "cylinder blow by" in the years to come.
I have been breaking in engines (both high performance and stock) this way for years and its never let me down.
The program came to me from a Mercedes factory driver back in the 1980's and he still maintains the method (and still works for MB).
I hope this helps
Mercedes and AMG program the ECU to be very forgiving with high tolerence for average drivers. ie: a non enthusiast that might not follow service schedules, might use low grade fuel and otherwise not take good care of the vehicle. This is why companies like Kleemann and Renntech can squeeze extra HP by chipping alone.
This also relates to the easy break-in outlined in the user manual. this breaks in the motor in a way that if the service schedule is not followed, poor grade fuel used or general abuse, there are pre existing tolerences in place to protect the motor.
"Spare the rod and spoil the child"
If you are an enthusiast, drive as you would normally right from the start. The first 40 Klm are the most important. Hard, steady acceleration in second and third gears to a high rev (5 to 6K RPM repeatedly) is critical to seat the piston rings solidly.
It is VERY important to let the engine warm to full operating temp and then run the first few minutes at moderate loads as to let the tranny fluid temp to catch up as well. The tranny needs to seat and seal over the first 1000 miles/1600 km. This will produce a smooth, responsive and very tight engine that will stay that way. Still follow the recommended scheduled first oil/filter change and away you go.....
I'm not saying to go racing the first weekend but if you drive hard and smoothly through the gears right out of the gate you can expect to maintain top torque and HP numbers for the life of the engine. Follow the "recommended" break in and expect a 10 to 15 HP drop and for sure, lots of "cylinder blow by" in the years to come.
I have been breaking in engines (both high performance and stock) this way for years and its never let me down.
The program came to me from a Mercedes factory driver back in the 1980's and he still maintains the method (and still works for MB).
I hope this helps
12-30-2004, 11:57 PM
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Well, someone threw their cent, then another threw a second cent, so im throwing my 3 cents 
I agree the manual said to put the car on C for comfort drive for the first 1000 miles. The problem I have with that is that C starts in second gear and is ment for really cold weather. Basically here is my theory, keep it in SPORT, drive the car in various speeds but dont exceed 55 miles, do not floor it, do not race it. Just drive it normal and introduce the engine to different speeds so it breaks in better. Also try not to break heavy either. Other than that you should be fine
I agree the manual said to put the car on C for comfort drive for the first 1000 miles. The problem I have with that is that C starts in second gear and is ment for really cold weather. Basically here is my theory, keep it in SPORT, drive the car in various speeds but dont exceed 55 miles, do not floor it, do not race it. Just drive it normal and introduce the engine to different speeds so it breaks in better. Also try not to break heavy either. Other than that you should be fine
