my stereo install
Here's how you find it. You do a search for "metra 99-8711" on Google and you find both the Metra page and a page for an online shop called www.sfxaudio.com. There, you'll find the kit on sale for $29.99 (USD).
Man I hope so, the guy at the install place was saying its to much for a small car. He had me kinda worried. Also I guess I can kiss my trunk space good-bye. Oh well, KJ-TypeR, have you replaced your rear set speakers at all? Im wondering if I should do it now or wait.
JL 10w3 Sub in the spare tire compartment
JL 250/1 Amp
We are leaving the rest of the speakers in (she has the Standard Stereo) unless some people with the standard stereo provide positive feedback after upgrading just their speakers.
The Stereo stuff I listed is for the 2002 BMW M3 I have on order from Town&Country BMW.

If you do decide to change your speakers, I'd love to hear how it sounds. If my GF has her subs in by then, we can show you that since we are both from Toronto. If I were to upgrade the speakers for her, I'd look for the most efficient high end speaker I could find. Anything with a big driver wouldn't run properly off the stock stereo.
Check out this new M3 install:
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...=194762&page=1
By the way, I had the stock speakers (standard) in the C230K and they sound much better when driven by a higher-end head unit. I had a Kenwood Excelon 615 hooked up for a while and it sounded much better than the same speakers driven by the stock head unit.
The only problem was how it looked. I might put it back in if I can get the Metra dash kit. Although now I have MB Quart PSD216's in front (amplified by two channels of a JL Audio 300/4) and a JL 12W6 in the hatchback (driven by a JL Audio 500/1), so making the stock speakers sound good isn't necessary anymore.
I also need to figure out how to get an ignition switched line to the head unit area, since the stock unit turns on and off by using the CANbus.
thanks!
Jim
KJ-TypeR,
Check out this new M3 install:
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...=194762&page=1
By the way, I had the stock speakers (standard) in the C230K and they sound much better when driven by a higher-end head unit. I had a Kenwood Excelon 615 hooked up for a while and it sounded much better than the same speakers driven by the stock head unit.
The only problem was how it looked. I might put it back in if I can get the Metra dash kit. Although now I have MB Quart PSD216's in front (amplified by two channels of a JL Audio 300/4) and a JL 12W6 in the hatchback (driven by a JL Audio 500/1), so making the stock speakers sound good isn't necessary anymore.
I also need to figure out how to get an ignition switched line to the head unit area, since the stock unit turns on and off by using the CANbus.
We're hoping that we can get enough volume out of the stock speakers if we turn the bass down and let the sub play all the bass.
Unfortunately, there's no way of getting any audio output from the head unit without opening up the head unit and soldering your own RCA preamp outputs onto the board. Well, that news isn't exactly that bad, since the board is well labelled once you open up the head unit.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
It sounds like you just need to tune the settings on your amplifiers and head unit. Specifically, you'll want to play around with the crossover frequency of the low pass filter on the JL 500/1 and the crossover frequencies of the high pass filters on the JL 300/4. I have the same amplifiers, so I know what I'm talking about.
Also, you can adjust the relative level of each amplifier by adjusting the "input sensitivity" screws. Check out the JL Audio site. They have lots of PDF files on recommended settings for their amps. Start with one of their recommended settings and then tweak from there.
Maybe you guys can help me out here. I am pleased with the overall sound quality of this install, but it is lacking one thing. The 10w7 puts out much more bass then i thought. Everyone cant believe that I am only running one ten. However, it only hits the really low frequencys clean. With the type of music that i listen to(rock,funk,club, and some rap) I am losing alot of mid bass, even with the two JL 6.5s. Vocals and highs sound great, but i can barely hear the electric bass or lower registers of the synthesizers. Im thinking to lose the rear 6.5 and customize the lower door panels to house one of those JL 6.5 subwoofers in each panel. I'll even do the front so that the tweeter and woofer are close for better soundstaging. My installer told me to keep the setup i have now and just add an EQ, but I still dont think it will be enough. Anyone have any experience with these 6.5 inch subs. There should be enough room to customize a small box in each door, but will they hit the certain frequencys that i am looking for cleanly.
I tried everything with that sub. It just gets really muddy with the higher frequencys. I've tried the crossover on the HU and the 500/1 amp seperately. Im gonna drop off the car to the installer and change a few things. Thanks
call Alcester Car Audio in UK
www.alcestercaraudio.co.uk
For Wiring Harness,
call Becker of North America for adapter cable # 5000.453-276
www.beckerautosound.com
To keep the stock amp, use any headunit with 4V pre-out.
Buy a set of RCA plug assembly (radio shack) and two 2-channel ground loop isolators for coupling (circuit city or best buy).
A few questions:
Does the stock (non-bose) system have an amp other than what is included in the head unit?
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the audio system?
Will this becker wiring harness give me wires to splice a new Head unit too?
Thanks,
-C



