Radar detector wiring
08-07-2008, 02:06 AM
#26
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LOADED 08' C350 & 14' GLK-350 Diamond White (P1, MM, AMG Pkg, Ln Trkng, Htd Sts, Keylss Go)
I have completed the installation of my V1, concealing all of the wiring. It is mounted to the right of the overhead light console.
My first plan to locate switched 12V in the right side underfloor wiring raceway was a non-starter because I did not have a color coded wiring diagram identifying which wire to connect to. Same story with the left side raceway.
So, I decided to run the wiring to the underhood fuse box which turned out to be very easy.
Although the leading edge of the headliner is easy to pull down far enough to hide the wire above it, crossing through the light console required opening it up. Turns out it's very easy.
Before doing so, unclip the mirror base covering (see photo) by popping it down on each side.
Then, take a credit card and insert it between the headliner and the edge of the console which will release a catch enabling it to drop down. See photo. Pulling the detector's cable through the console can be done by taking a straight stiff piece of wire (home electrical wire is ideal) and carefully pushing it into the right front corner of the box and when it emerges you can tape the detector cable to it and pull it carefully into the box. Work the cable across the forward end of the box so as not to interfere with the console when you pop it back up into place. Since the cable is flexible, push the same piece of wire out through the left rear corner of the box after re-taping the cable to it and then pull the cable through. Untape the stiff wire and conceal the cable above the driver's side of the windshield.
The A-Pillar cover must be removed but before doing so, the door welting must be pulled away from the door opening on the forward side. It's a press fit so no problem with reinstalling later. Pull the A-pillar cover away, starting at the top. It is held in place with two spring steel clips. Be careful, because the plastic mounting points for the clips can be broken.
At this point, the end panel on the dash should be popped off. It pivots at it's front edge so start at the pointed end opposite. Route the cable down the a-pillar, behind the curtain bag (see photo) and secure it with plastic ties so that it cannot find it's way over the bag later. Route the cable into the area just behind the opening in the dash end.
You will need a length of wire about 24-30" long to run to the fuse panel. I used red wire, about 18 gauge (sliding it into a length of black vinyl tubing for protection) and I installed a small male spade type connector on it's end. If you pull a fuse out, you will see the size required so that it can be plugged into an unused fuse position. I used fuse position 34 as the photo shows. To run the wire into the fuse box, I used another length of stiff insulated house type wire. Looking into the fusebox after removing the lid, you will observe a hole which opens into the back of the dash.The hole is closed off with flexible plastic foam. Take a long screwdriver and depress the top of the foam down far enough to push the stiff wire through. You should see the wire when you look through the access hole (flashlight required) in the end of the dash. Pull it out through the hole (don't pull it out of the fuse box or you will have to start over) and then tape the wire with the connector on it to the stiff wire and pull it through to the dash-end hole. Do not plug the wire into the fuse position yet.
After cutting the power wire to the desired length, install a female spade connector on it which the V1 power adapter's red wire will plug into. The black ground wire can be mounted under the screw holding the end of the dash to the metal frame at the lower left of the area covered by the dash's end cover.
Coil up the excess wire and fasten it and the V-1's power cable connector with plastic ties to the vertical bar across the opening, being careful to keep the fuse carrier accessible. See photo.
Now wasn't that easy?
My first plan to locate switched 12V in the right side underfloor wiring raceway was a non-starter because I did not have a color coded wiring diagram identifying which wire to connect to. Same story with the left side raceway.
So, I decided to run the wiring to the underhood fuse box which turned out to be very easy.
Although the leading edge of the headliner is easy to pull down far enough to hide the wire above it, crossing through the light console required opening it up. Turns out it's very easy.
Before doing so, unclip the mirror base covering (see photo) by popping it down on each side.
Then, take a credit card and insert it between the headliner and the edge of the console which will release a catch enabling it to drop down. See photo. Pulling the detector's cable through the console can be done by taking a straight stiff piece of wire (home electrical wire is ideal) and carefully pushing it into the right front corner of the box and when it emerges you can tape the detector cable to it and pull it carefully into the box. Work the cable across the forward end of the box so as not to interfere with the console when you pop it back up into place. Since the cable is flexible, push the same piece of wire out through the left rear corner of the box after re-taping the cable to it and then pull the cable through. Untape the stiff wire and conceal the cable above the driver's side of the windshield.
The A-Pillar cover must be removed but before doing so, the door welting must be pulled away from the door opening on the forward side. It's a press fit so no problem with reinstalling later. Pull the A-pillar cover away, starting at the top. It is held in place with two spring steel clips. Be careful, because the plastic mounting points for the clips can be broken.
At this point, the end panel on the dash should be popped off. It pivots at it's front edge so start at the pointed end opposite. Route the cable down the a-pillar, behind the curtain bag (see photo) and secure it with plastic ties so that it cannot find it's way over the bag later. Route the cable into the area just behind the opening in the dash end.
You will need a length of wire about 24-30" long to run to the fuse panel. I used red wire, about 18 gauge (sliding it into a length of black vinyl tubing for protection) and I installed a small male spade type connector on it's end. If you pull a fuse out, you will see the size required so that it can be plugged into an unused fuse position. I used fuse position 34 as the photo shows. To run the wire into the fuse box, I used another length of stiff insulated house type wire. Looking into the fusebox after removing the lid, you will observe a hole which opens into the back of the dash.The hole is closed off with flexible plastic foam. Take a long screwdriver and depress the top of the foam down far enough to push the stiff wire through. You should see the wire when you look through the access hole (flashlight required) in the end of the dash. Pull it out through the hole (don't pull it out of the fuse box or you will have to start over) and then tape the wire with the connector on it to the stiff wire and pull it through to the dash-end hole. Do not plug the wire into the fuse position yet.
After cutting the power wire to the desired length, install a female spade connector on it which the V1 power adapter's red wire will plug into. The black ground wire can be mounted under the screw holding the end of the dash to the metal frame at the lower left of the area covered by the dash's end cover.
Coil up the excess wire and fasten it and the V-1's power cable connector with plastic ties to the vertical bar across the opening, being careful to keep the fuse carrier accessible. See photo.
Now wasn't that easy?
RLE, can you post a pic of where the actual V-1 is located?
08-07-2008, 05:50 PM
#27
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black c300 sport p1
