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Does Mercedes recommend any oil additives for high mileage engines ? m272 is close to 300k, still runs smooth like new and burns no oil, change the oil every 5000km with Mobile 1 0w40 ? Do I jsut continue this or should I get some additives or high mileage mobile 1 ?
Every 5,000km is very cautious. In Australia we have 50 ppMillion sulphur in diesel, EU mandates 20 or so, so it is suggested we change the engine oil every 15,000km and not every 25,000 as is Merc's recommendation and I am talking diesels. No additives are ever recommended, but you can go to a higher viscosity oil, like the 0W-40, which you do anyway, compared to 5W-30 got high mileage.
Bought a AUS $28 12V pump via Fleabay and it did one suction oil change via dip stick. Kept running it for 15 min. only (20 recommended) but at end I noticed oil was coming out of ON/OFF switch! China is sending me a new one without me having to pay for postage to return old one. So best not to go for the cheap stuff.
I tried a 12v amazon $25 pump connected to the dipstick tube but it was not strong enough to get the oil up the tube. What type of vacuum did you use?
I also use the Amazon $25/12V oil suction pump and it does a clean job in 15-20 mins. But then again, I have C250 and I change the oil once a year. Make sure to insert the suction tubing all the way down to the oil pan. If my memory serves me right, I posted a video clip here somewhere.
Seems none of the pumps on Amazon have great reviews.... No negative reviews about removing the drag plug.. I would like to do it all from the top, but it does not look like the hardware is up to the task....
I don't understand these electric pumps , the tubing is flimsy .
On good manual extractors the tubing is hard and has a wire running through it , plus your side head of triceps gets pumped up .
Do short / annual oil changes and the dispersants in the additive package keep contaminants in suspension , so no need to sump drain .
However I do sump drain the first time to check for fill quantity for future extractor method to match and to fit a Gold Plug magnetic sump plug .
Just buy ramps and get under the damn car, dealers use pumps because they do dozens of oil changes so it makes them efficient, still not how the engineers designed the engines, they did so by "draining the oil", not pumping it out.. You will not get all the oil out. Just take an after noon, loosen the drain plug and let it drain for 30-45 mins.
If that is the only thing you do on your vehicle, then there is no better time to get under it and check if everything is working order, even if you have a warranty, since you may not see a slow leak until its too late and the warranty runs out, just because you didn't want to get your hand dirty once a year.
They have their place , true on some cars you can't get everything out because the design / baffles .
On my 2003 VW it further sucks out an oil cooler below the oil filter housing , this remaining oil would blacken the fresh straight away .
Coupled with the egr disabled the oil takes months now to even change a darker shade .
I would use a pump just to get what the drain plug couldn't, that would be a good use for it. The oil cooler on my m272 ,where the oil filter lives, there is always oil left behind which I might just start pumping out. I usually just flush it with half a quart of fresh oil let it drain oil but pumping it might be more efficient.
I do have that Amazon Black and yellow pump which I use to pump out coolant/brake and power steering fluid out from the reservoirs and it does a great job so It will work just fine in the oil cooler. How ever, I don't see it sucking out the 8+ quarts out from the dipstick tube. You need a quality pump that runs on air supply and uses vacuum to pump all the oil out of the crank case, "most of it".
Last edited by W204Motorsports; 12-17-2018 at 01:06 AM.
Have bought one of those el cheapos rather than the more expensive but surely better hand pumps with container. This $25 pump leaked after one engine oil change, told Hong Kong I want my money back, so they sent me a second pump. The thinner delivery pipe was changed over to the suction side and now is small enough to fit into the automatic gear box via the dip stick on this Merc C220 CDI.
Am happy now as this second pump works like a charm and have done the engine oil and auto. gear box, but for that I will have to still crawl under the Merc to drop and clean the pan and magnet. Will also doe the lawn mower, as that means lifting the lot; too heavy.
Yes, that is another good point to make in favour of "sucking" via 12V or hand pump: On my Merc. there is a heavy steel plate protecting the underside of the engine. I can take it off while under the car, but cannot put it back on as it is too heavy without going to a friendly shop or Australian "men's shed" to lift the vehicle and separate support (stand) for the steel plate to match the holes. Disadvantage: Any oil leaks cannot be seen on Mercs as that plate catches any oil.
Just buy a Mityvac Fluid Evacuator Plus (8.8L) if you do a search you can purchase it for about $79. It works great and you can use one of their rubber stopper and you don't even need to put the hose all the way down the oil tube. The Mity Vac is clear so you can see exactly how much oil has been extracted. I get 7.5 quarts out which is exactly what my 2011 C300 4matic holds. It is so easy why would you want to go through the trouble of lifting your car? I have used my Mity Vac for five years and have had no problems, and it makes it easy to put the used oil back into the old containers.
I used a similar product like Mityvac by Astro Pneumatic Tools. I've done 7 oil changes in 5 yrs, the last 2 done with the help of $20 pump. My arms would be thankful if I knew and bought the pump sooner. They all worked flawlessly.
I also use the Amazon $25/12V oil suction pump and it does a clean job in 15-20 mins. But then again, I have C250 and I change the oil once a year. Make sure to insert the suction tubing all the way down to the oil pan. If my memory serves me right, I posted a video clip here somewhere.
I use this pump also. It works pretty darn good for its size. I will be getting a larger mitivac one of these days but this little piece of crap pump works ok.
I changed the oil in my girlfriend's '14 C250 a few weeks back. There's little to no information in this thread about the C250, so I figured I'd throw up a couple pictures. I did it the old-fashioned way, because gravity is free.
The oil drain in on the rear driver side (left side) of the oil pan. I removed both engine under panels because I had never been under the car and didn't know what to expect - in hindsight, I think I could've just removed the rear under panel to get to the oil drain, but I'm not sure. I was in a bit of a hurry, so I didn't pay much attention as I put the under panels back into place to see where they actually covered.
Have a rag handy to clean up the wiring harnesses that M-B cleverly routed right under the drain - when the flow slows down, it will get onto the wiring.
The oil filter is between the air filter housing and the firewall; it's a black cap with TURBO lettering on it. (Why "TURBO" and not "OIL FILTER" or something like that? ) With the air filter housing in place it's unlikely you'd be able to get much of a grip on the oil filter cap. Even after removing the air filter housing (I was doing the air filter, too) to allow for better grip and leverage, I still wasn't able to get it going by hand, I had to use a wrench on it. Unfortunately, I don't recall what size the hex on the cap is, but it's pretty big.
As previously mentioned in this thread, for the C250, the oil filter is Mann HU514Y (or equivalent), which included the filter and correct o-rings. I have to say, I wasn't terribly impressed by the quality of the Mann filter, seemed pretty flimsy / cheesy. Based on the pictures in this thread, it appears the 4cyl filter is configured similarly to the 6cyl filter, but is longer/narrower. Yank the oil filter out of the cap, replace the 2 small o-rings at the bottom of the plastic tube, replace the big o-ring by the threads of the cap, push the new filter on and it's ready to reinstall. It took a bit of force to pop the new filter in place - I was a bit worried I was going to deform/break the flimsy-feeling Mann filter.
Refill through the oil fill cap filter housing, install your new filter, and you're good to go. You'll want a long-ish funnel to reach the oil fill based on its location. [Edit: Poor memory corrected by C0d3Sp4c3 below.]
To twist the cap off to the oil filter, buy a cheap aluminium thingy from Hong Kong (US$5?) you slide over the oil filter and then twist it off with the correct metric socket. Then torque it back on with the indicated max. torque.
I changed the oil in my girlfriend's '14 C250 a few weeks back. There's little to no information in this thread about the C250, so I figured I'd throw up a couple pictures. I did it the old-fashioned way, because gravity is free.
Exactly how I did on my 2013 C250 first oil change.
Originally Posted by AAIIIC
The oil drain in on the rear driver side (left side) of the oil pan. I removed both engine under panels because I had never been under the car and didn't know what to expect - in hindsight, I think I could've just removed the rear under panel to get to the oil drain, but I'm not sure. I was in a bit of a hurry, so I didn't pay much attention as I put the under panels back into place to see where they actually covered.
Couldn't agree more, it is a PITA to gain access to the oil drain valve. After my first experience, I swore not to take this route ever again.
Originally Posted by AAIIIC
Have a rag handy to clean up the wiring harnesses that M-B cleverly routed right under the drain - when the flow slows down, it will get onto the wiring.
You got this!
Originally Posted by AAIIIC
The oil filter is between the air filter housing and the firewall; it's a black cap with TURBO lettering on it. (Why "TURBO" and not "OIL FILTER" or something like that? ) With the air filter housing in place it's unlikely you'd be able to get much of a grip on the oil filter cap. Even after removing the air filter housing (I was doing the air filter, too) to allow for better grip and leverage, I still wasn't able to get it going by hand, I had to use a wrench on it. Unfortunately, I don't recall what size the hex on the cap is, but it's pretty big.
It is called 27mm socket. I used a torque wrench, sometimes a breaker bar or rachet whichever is within reach. Wrap around the perimeter with rags or shop towels when removing the oil filter to prevent oil from dripping all over.
Originally Posted by AAIIIC
As previously mentioned in this thread, for the C250, the oil filter is Mann HU514Y (or equivalent), which included the filter and correct o-rings. I have to say, I wasn't terribly impressed by the quality of the Mann filter, seemed pretty flimsy / cheesy. Based on the pictures in this thread, it appears the 4cyl filter is configured similarly to the 6cyl filter, but is longer/narrower. Yank the oil filter out of the cap, replace the 2 small o-rings at the bottom of the plastic tube, replace the big o-ring by the threads of the cap, push the new filter on and it's ready to reinstall. It took a bit of force to pop the new filter in place - I was a bit worried I was going to deform/break the flimsy-feeling Mann filter.
You got this too! I used Mann HU514Y but switched to the OEM for the first time after 6 oil change intervals. The OEM oil filter from the Dealer cost $32 after CA tax and guess what? There is no discernable difference between the OEM and Mann HU514Y that I could tell except for the price. Your call...
Originally Posted by AAIIIC
Refill through the oil filter housing, install your new filter, and you're good to go. You'll want a long-ish funnel to reach the oil fill based on its location.
Why? Install the new oil filter in place. Use a funnel to pour oil into the top of the engine and hand tighten the oil cap. Make sense?
Featured here is the cheapy oil extractor on its 4th year and still going strong. Extract approx 5.5 litres in 20mins or less. Well worth the money, at least for me! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boMv...ature=youtu.be
06-10-2015, 02:55 PM
) With the air filter housing in place it's unlikely you'd be able to get much of a grip on the oil filter cap. Even after removing the air filter housing (I was doing the air filter, too) to allow for better grip and leverage, I still wasn't able to get it going by hand, I had to use a wrench on it. Unfortunately, I don't recall what size the hex on the cap is, but it's pretty big.
