!!! Hit & Run Damage !!! Should I pay out of pocket or use my insurance? (see pics)
I used to drive a brand new BMW 325i and someone hit the rear bumper I think it was fixable however the dealer decided to replace it. The fixed so well that you could not tell the car had been hit. After one year I decided to trade it for a brand new Lexus and the dealer asked me if it has ever been in a crash or had any kind of bodyshop work which I answered NO. I dont know if the dealer or insurance never reported to carfax or they just did not bother to check carfax report since the car looked so good but they never mentioned about it. Needless to say I got a really good deal!
This should fall under uninsured motorist, with State Farm it's a standard $250.00 deductible and you are at ZERO fault, at least in Maryland, you WILL NOT see your rates go up.
Did you get a police report? ALWAYS get a police report.
26 and single.
Your first step now, after finding out who your dealer uses for bodywork, is to get an estimate, maybe two. Then, call your insurance company and report the damage which you are required to do by your contract. Even if you decide to pay out of pocket. Your policy will show your collision deductible. This is a collision claim, not comprehensive. If you have uninsured motorist coverage (required in my state) that may reduce your deductible, personal experience here.
As to the parts, I seriously doubt that kinked dent will be fixable and neither dent is a Dent Wizard candidate. And I've used them 4-5 times.
The taillight damage requires a new assembly. The lens is not available as a spare part. Since your posts say your car is "full loaded", the light is an LED unit and dealer retail is around $300 each.
As to the VIN label on the trunk lid, it CAN be removed with care and installed on the new part. I have removed them with a heat gun and a razor blade but they are easy to damage. The new trunk lid will have a different label (non-VIN) identifying it as a replacement part and that is something that will be looked for at trade-in time.
Your company will likely want to see the car and do their own lowball estimate and will press you to take their check and sign a release which closes the book. They may say they will "work" with the body shop but what that can mean is that their adjuster will tell the shop that the job is not only worth what they have decided to pay but that any reluctance to cave in to their demands may have an effect on future business. That means corner-cutting. Or requiring you to come up with the difference.
The adjuster's job is to keep claims costs down and he doesn't give a damn about you or your car. And don't hand over any money until the job is 100% complete to your satisfaction.
If later on you decide to trade the car in, the dealer may ask you to sign a document affirming that the car is accident damage free, so if the repair is detectable, it will cost you in trade in value.
This is not a DIY project and I'll bet the cost will be $2000 or more. When repairing a Mercedes, it's always more.
Last edited by RLE; Aug 21, 2009 at 10:12 PM.
Get the estimates at 2 shops and from that point go to the shop of choice (once your insurance company agrees its ok,) then have the shop deal directly with your insurance company. I repeat DO NOT take a check from your insurance company. I've never got a quote for a repair that didn't turn into a high bill after they removed parts to only find more damage deeper in. At that point your shop will contact your insurance company directly asking for more money, they'll show them why and then they'll get the money.
Another nice thing, at least here, uninsured motorist insurance covers a rental car so you might get a free rental out of the deal.
Even if the repair shop has the money, if they turn out a bad job, you can refuse to take the car and have them fix the issue before you take it back. I had an Audi A4 and I took it to a USAA recommended shop, I refused the car THREE times. it had runs in the paint every time. Not only did they redo the car, but I also kept the rental car ZERO cost to me.
P.S since you didn't get a police report, if your insurance company wants to play hard ball they might argue with you on how it happened, whos to say you didn't back into something?
Last edited by jeffie7; Aug 21, 2009 at 10:19 PM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
$300 for the lamp eh? + a whole new trunk and getting it painted, OUCH....looks like i will have to go with a claim on this one.... i am hoping they shouldn't raise my rates since it was the result of vandalism or hit and run, but u never know with these shoddy insurance companies how they will file it... not to confident about esurance after google'ing "esurance reviews"

do they have to use genuine mercedes parts??? I have a feeling they will be reluctant to replace the whole trunk and paint it and also replace the whole left led tail light assembly for just a small crack.. in order to keep costs down...
sucks how people who file claims always have to stress about getting the job done right and not getting screwed on corner cutting... just the nature of the adjusters job i guess...
Last edited by rb23lb; Aug 22, 2009 at 01:19 AM.
Get the estimates at 2 shops and from that point go to the shop of choice (once your insurance company agrees its ok,) then have the shop deal directly with your insurance company. I repeat DO NOT take a check from your insurance company. I've never got a quote for a repair that didn't turn into a high bill after they removed parts to only find more damage deeper in. At that point your shop will contact your insurance company directly asking for more money, they'll show them why and then they'll get the money.
Another nice thing, at least here, uninsured motorist insurance covers a rental car so you might get a free rental out of the deal.
Even if the repair shop has the money, if they turn out a bad job, you can refuse to take the car and have them fix the issue before you take it back. I had an Audi A4 and I took it to a USAA recommended shop, I refused the car THREE times. it had runs in the paint every time. Not only did they redo the car, but I also kept the rental car ZERO cost to me.
P.S since you didn't get a police report, if your insurance company wants to play hard ball they might argue with you on how it happened, whos to say you didn't back into something?
Request they use genuine MB parts and they should, at some spot on the trunk it should have a sticker or a stamp in the metal saying MB I know every body part on my Acura did.

do they have to use genuine mercedes parts??? I have a feeling they will be reluctant to replace the whole trunk and paint it and also replace the whole left led tail light assembly for just a small crack.. in order to keep costs down...
There is one thing that I always do and I know it pays off. When your insurance adjuster or the body shop estimator examines the damage, be sure the car is immaculately clean, inside and out, wheels and all. This will make a much bigger impression than you might think and puts those people on notice that the car must be returned to pre-accident condition
That's what I have always done before any dealer service appointment on all my cars, year after year, and while they think I'm nuts I know they take better care of the car than the average customer's. I also know that the techs appreciate a clean engine compartment.
There is one thing that I always do and I know it pays off. When your insurance adjuster or the body shop estimator examines the damage, be sure the car is immaculately clean, inside and out, wheels and all. This will make a much bigger impression than you might think and puts those people on notice that the car must be returned to pre-accident condition
That's what I have always done before any dealer service appointment on all my cars, year after year, and while they think I'm nuts I know they take better care of the car than the average customer's. I also know that the techs appreciate a clean engine compartment.
Esurance wants me to bring in the car to one of their "approved shops" in the area close to where i live.... i know i am not obligated to get it fixed there, so i will go get an estimate from the closest dealer as well, to see what they say and how they compare....
anybody have any experience with "approved" shops that insurers recommend right off the bat? are these "approved" shops usually the ones with the tight relationship with the insurer that will keep costs down and cut corners???
Esurance wants me to bring in the car to one of their "approved shops" in the area close to where i live.... i know i am not obligated to get it fixed there, so i will go get an estimate from the closest dealer as well, to see what they say and how they compare....
anybody have any experience with "approved" shops that insurers recommend right off the bat? are these "approved" shops usually the ones with the tight relationship with the insurer that will keep costs down and cut corners???
I would suggest asking your MB dealer for a bodyshop specialize in Benz or any authorize one of that king.
With my Acura, I used the Geico recommended shop, and they did VERY good work, so much that I used the shop once again for a unrelated problem. I've also told many people about the good work they've done.
Bottom line, all shops do insurance work that makes up most of their work load. different companies recommend different shops, not because they're a cheaper shop, but they tend to work out deals if they get a lot of business from them.
the idea of doing a 2nd estimate is to see if the 1st one is in check, the shop my Acura used, turns out my 2nd estimate was cheaper then the 1st one given by geico.
google the shops name, ask for pictures of their work or to see any fresh work that was just done.
Just like anything in life, you need to decide for yourself on what place to use. it is YOUR choice.
I HATE geico due to their motorcycle rate BS, them screwing me with a quote, and the fact that they spend so much money on TV ads rather then pay their employees more or offer lower rates.
However, geico did put my car into a good shop for paint work when one of their customers hit my car. So at least they picked a good painting place.
I've head good things about USAA (my family is military) but they still can't touch state farm for motorcycle prices. Plus the local shop they sent me too was total crap.
Barbers Auto Recycling USA-AL(Ardmore) 1-800-632-2091 has a white one - should be able to get is for $500 max (possibly with shipping) and bolt right on.
For tail light check out car-part.com - does not say if LED but selling for $100-$200
I would not run through ins for $800.
Barbers Auto Recycling USA-AL(Ardmore) 1-800-632-2091 has a white one - should be able to get is for $500 max (possibly with shipping) and bolt right on.
For tail light check out car-part.com - does not say if LED but selling for $100-$200
I would not run through ins for $800.
sounds a lot cheap then $800.00 even more so when its not an at fault claim
What sucks with used parts, (I've used them in the past on other cars with out full coverage insurance) rarely are they 100%. Best case, the trunk will need to be buffed out to remove minor scratches or scuffs, worse case, it might need minor paint work, and when that happens, it ends up being a better idea to paint the whole thing. Even if it is perfect you still need to worry about the paint matching. yes its the same paint code but chances are its not a perfect match, white is one of the hardest colors to match correctly.
if no insurance, Id buy a used trunk and install it, its a no brainer. I just don't understand why so many people will pay 1000, 1200, 1400, 1600 bucks a year on insurance, then will never use it when they have a legit reason to.
Last edited by jeffie7; Aug 24, 2009 at 01:26 AM.


