alan111

So I installed the HID Kit for the H7 that they have on their site. I ordered the 6k version.
All the wires are set up correctly. I know this because the lights come on perfectly upon engine startup. However after about 15 seconds, my left headlight flickers and goes out. 5 seconds later, the right side flickers and then goes out. Then they come on and off intermittently every couple of minutes. I also get an error message about the left side being out, but nothing for the right.

Did I do something wrong or am I missing something?


EDIT - I am also getting a right headlamp out error too now.

Nik_Ind

The problem as i see it is basically due to a fault in connections. Try to redo it if you have the time. Otherwise they cause a problem when you have your daylight driving lamp mode on. If so is the case then you need to switch that function off. Also, it happens due to faulty fuses. Another thing you could so is upgrade your fuses. For example 15mA to 30mA. I've read this somewhere and they consider it a great solution to remove flickering and auto shutdown of HIDs.

alan111

I was told before ordering that these will not flicker or trigger any codes..
Do I need the capacitors? Shouldn't they have been included?

Nik_Ind

Well i'm pretty sure you would not be needing any capacitors. HID ballasts are the ones controlling all your functions and they have everything in-built. As i mentioned earlier, try those solutions. If it does not work, then just contact the seller. I'm sure they'll be able to provide you with practical help.

alan111

I'll try to upgrade the fuses, but that's the first I've heard that. Where did you read that?

Nik_Ind

This was a general on HID kit troubleshooting. Can't exactly remember where i read it, but it was definitely there. A wiki page or something. I think you should try reconnecting 1st. Try cleaning the plugs and then connecting them again. Although it seems to very vague, but when it comes to plug and play set-ups, the minutest of details make a difference!

alan111

I will also do that, but the weird thing is that they stay lit upon start up! I know the polarity's are correct because I had the reverse them prior to closing everything because they didn't light. I reversed the polarity and they lit. I don't know what else it could be ...

Nik_Ind

Shouldn't be a major problem buddy. Don't worry. In any case if there is problem with the product, you can surely ask for assistance for HIDextra. Just try it out and let us know. Probably some other members here might have a different solution to this. Needless to say, it can be solved here on this forum! (unless it's a faulty product of course)

Royce118

Well I think you need an error canceler to get rid of those error message. Might also solve your flickering problem.

alan111

Well after reading through this thread, it looks like I will need the capacitors that they were supposed to send me, but did not.

https://mbworld.org/forums/group-pur...d-members.html

Should fix my problems... this is so frustrating. I want to use my lights already!

Nik_Ind

Ok. That's a first for me. Do let me know if it works out. Eager to know!

alan111

Will do...

By the way - Can anyone show me a couple of pictures of where they mounted the ballasts and such? I'm affraid that I may have positioned them somewhere where it may melt something important.... let me know your suggestions.

Thanks!

raymond g-

whoa....i'm going to have to jump in and disagree with this 'fix'. fuses are
purposely designed to be the inherent weak spot in a circuit. their raison
d'etre is to blow when the amperage rises above the high end of normal
operation. to suggest that the fix is to double the fuse rating is simplistic....
and dangerous, especially if done w/o calculating the rated load of all the
functioning parts. only when this has been done can a fuse rating be
assigned. in fact, one should select the lightest fuse...just above the
nominal circuit rating... which prevents the fuse from blowing. done casually
and w/o proper calculation, worst case scenario will see your harness and
appliances catch fire.

do *not* attempt to fix headlight flickering by doubling your fuse rating.

homeowners use to try this method by sticking pennies into screw in fuses
and have their house catch fire. similar stories with folks rigging HID w/o
a supplemental wiring harness (and fuses) into their headlight circuit.

Nik_Ind

Hmmm. First of all my apologies, i honestly had no idea this could happen! I mentioned that i had just read it somewhere and not tried it myself. If only i could remember what website it was. Undoubtedly it was mentioned that this fuse trick helps in eliminating the flickering. Don't know about any wiring upgrades though. But thanks for the update buddy.


P.S.- Coins instead of fuses PRICELESS!!!

Cerano

hey bro

ive encountered this problem. what happens is that your car's ECU controls the current flowing to each light. when you swap to HIDs, the current drawn is much less and so it will trigger the ECU to keep switching on and off. what you need is a resistor or the so-called error cancellor.

raymond g-

tnx for understanding..... i wasn't attacking you, but whomever posted the
'fix' as the solution.

Blk04cobra1

I was told to specify the resistors in my order, so that is what I did. They seem to work fine however there was strange coincidence where my front SAM module fried about 3 days after the install.

alan111

Uh-oh. The more I read, the more scared I get about these HID kits. Which kit and from where did you get it?

Nik_Ind

Hahah. Just go ahead and try the error-cancellers/capacitors or probably re-connecting. Otherwise just consult your seller. It's best not to get confused and not waste time buddy. Really hoping things work out for you!

tehc300

I had the same problem when I first installed my DDM tuning kit. I bought the 55watt kit thinking no errors or flickers would occur. I was wrong and about 10min after startup both sides would flicker and I'd get a bulb out warning on dash.

A forum member told me to purchase the error cancelers so I did and problem was solved the minute I plugged them in. Ever since I've had 0 problems.

http://www.ddmtuning.com/index.php?p...=130&parent=85

pay the $20 and save yourself the headache.

As for positioning..I put mine above the inside of the wheel hub I believe and used Industrial velcro to hold it in position. The velcro holds like no other and hasn't budged since the day I put em on. Holds better on plastic which is where I placed the ballast on the plastic hump of the wheel well.

http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Industr...9&sr=8-1-spell

That's the velcro I used. You can find them at home depot in smaller lengths for cheaper.

hope that helps. GL Bud

Benzo 003

Basically, same thing with the error cancellors....stop fooling around and buy them. They absolutlely work. I was connecting, reconnecting switching the ballasts....the cancellors work.

alan111

Wow, thanks for that post man! That was everything I needed to know. I appreciate it! Will post some pics this coming weekend.

Oh, and I spoke with HIDEXTRA.com and they said they are sending me the capacitors (same as error cancellers) for free. They said it should have been included with the kit. So at least that should be solved.

Fooling around? I asked for advise and help as I was not sure what was going on.

Benzo 003

A poor choice of words....I was trying say something along the lines of not to waste too much time diagnosing the issue after another post indicated that the cancellors were the way to go.

No offense intended.

E92-Lighting

a capacitor may help, but if you want error free i would recommend MTEC hid kits

way2evil

And that would have nothing to do with you selling them, correct?