Brake Pad DIY?
03-29-2010, 09:35 PM
#1
Super Member
Thread Starter
Brake Pad DIY?
The dealer wants $200 per axle to change my brake pads.
Does anyone have a DIY they can share because i can get all 4 sets of pads for about $100 if i order from autozone.com so if i can figure it out myself it will cost much less than the $400 that the dealer wants.
Any help is appreciated!
Does anyone have a DIY they can share because i can get all 4 sets of pads for about $100 if i order from autozone.com so if i can figure it out myself it will cost much less than the $400 that the dealer wants.
Any help is appreciated!
03-30-2010, 08:48 PM
#3
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SRT-6
If you've done a car before and have tools it's easy. If you've never done it or are lacking tools, real hard. You need a way to push the pistons in before the new pads will fit. C clamp or large channel lock. The rest of the tools are pretty common with exception, possible, of torx tools. Brake dust is nasty, by the way.
Les
Les
03-30-2010, 10:02 PM
#4
Super Member
Thread Starter
I have done brake pad changes many times, but only on a BMW E46. I see that there are pins on some MB DIY's that I googled, and it looks like you can slide the pads out of the rear of the caliper instead of removing the caliper from the caliper carrier on our cars?
If that is the case, it seems quite different from the E46.
is that accurate?
If that is the case, it seems quite different from the E46.
is that accurate?
03-31-2010, 02:05 PM
#5
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98 Brilliant Silver E320 Wagon
Start by pulling a front and a rear wheel to see what you've got. Fronts are often 'floating' caliper design where you only remove the floating portion to take out pads. If the fronts are fixed you need to remove the caliper usually. The rears are usually fixed design and pads are held in place by one or two pins which can be driven out with a punch or drift.
If you choose to do your own, some tips: 1) always open bleed valve when forcing pistons back into calipers. You don't want to force old fluid back upstream, 2) Plan to have something the right size to rest caliper on so you don't have to disconnect brake line, 3) use DOT 4+ or DOT 4 LV fluid, 4) don't forget wear sensors (if you have them) and MB anti-squeal paste.
You can get factory OEM discs, pads, supplies, etc. from online vendors like autohausaz. I'm sure Autozone will work but probably not the same quality.
As mentioned you need a few tools such as a box end wrench (9mm) for bleed valve, torx, hex bit or hex sockets for mtg. bolts and a 0-100 Nm torque wrench. You should also determine the min. spec for the disc thickness so you can see if they should be changed.
There's a good Brake DIY at the top of the W210 forum most of which would apply.
Hope this helps you with what's required.
If you choose to do your own, some tips: 1) always open bleed valve when forcing pistons back into calipers. You don't want to force old fluid back upstream, 2) Plan to have something the right size to rest caliper on so you don't have to disconnect brake line, 3) use DOT 4+ or DOT 4 LV fluid, 4) don't forget wear sensors (if you have them) and MB anti-squeal paste.
You can get factory OEM discs, pads, supplies, etc. from online vendors like autohausaz. I'm sure Autozone will work but probably not the same quality.
As mentioned you need a few tools such as a box end wrench (9mm) for bleed valve, torx, hex bit or hex sockets for mtg. bolts and a 0-100 Nm torque wrench. You should also determine the min. spec for the disc thickness so you can see if they should be changed.
There's a good Brake DIY at the top of the W210 forum most of which would apply.
Hope this helps you with what's required.
03-31-2010, 02:39 PM
#6
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C350 and a Lightning.
Start by pulling a front and a rear wheel to see what you've got. Fronts are often 'floating' caliper design where you only remove the floating portion to take out pads. If the fronts are fixed you need to remove the caliper usually. The rears are usually fixed design and pads are held in place by one or two pins which can be driven out with a punch or drift.
If you choose to do your own, some tips: 1) always open bleed valve when forcing pistons back into calipers. You don't want to force old fluid back upstream, 2) Plan to have something the right size to rest caliper on so you don't have to disconnect brake line, 3) use DOT 4+ or DOT 4 LV fluid, 4) don't forget wear sensors (if you have them) and MB anti-squeal paste.
You can get factory OEM discs, pads, supplies, etc. from online vendors like autohausaz. I'm sure Autozone will work but probably not the same quality.
As mentioned you need a few tools such as a box end wrench (9mm) for bleed valve, torx, hex bit or hex sockets for mtg. bolts and a 0-100 Nm torque wrench. You should also determine the min. spec for the disc thickness so you can see if they should be changed.
There's a good Brake DIY at the top of the W210 forum most of which would apply.
Hope this helps you with what's required.
If you choose to do your own, some tips: 1) always open bleed valve when forcing pistons back into calipers. You don't want to force old fluid back upstream, 2) Plan to have something the right size to rest caliper on so you don't have to disconnect brake line, 3) use DOT 4+ or DOT 4 LV fluid, 4) don't forget wear sensors (if you have them) and MB anti-squeal paste.
You can get factory OEM discs, pads, supplies, etc. from online vendors like autohausaz. I'm sure Autozone will work but probably not the same quality.
As mentioned you need a few tools such as a box end wrench (9mm) for bleed valve, torx, hex bit or hex sockets for mtg. bolts and a 0-100 Nm torque wrench. You should also determine the min. spec for the disc thickness so you can see if they should be changed.
There's a good Brake DIY at the top of the W210 forum most of which would apply.
Hope this helps you with what's required.
04-02-2010, 04:54 PM
#7
Super Member
Thread Starter
I bought some duralast gold from autozone. I hope they have less dust than the OEM pads, not just have to figure out how to install. Thanks fo the tips, i guess i'll just have to get in there to figure it out.
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04-02-2010, 06:06 PM
#8
Super Member
See what a speedy brake shop etc will charge - probably cheap; bring your own pads. It is an easy job if done before and have tools.
04-02-2010, 06:41 PM
#9
Super Member
Thread Starter
I thought it would be pretty cheap for a shop to do too. I called a local shop & they quoted me $130 just for labor to install the front & rear pads. I have to keep shopping around. I would think that $60 for front & rear labor only sounds more like it right?
04-02-2010, 09:06 PM
#10
Super Member
IMO $130 for that is fair.
