**Major Engine Trouble**
ANY help would be greatly appriciated!
tia-chris
Last edited by ...its-low...; Jul 2, 2010 at 12:29 AM.
With engine at normal operating temperature--remove oil dipstick and drop a drop of hot oil on manifold or other hot part of engine--oil will smoke water will sizzle
If water and oil mixed --good indication head gasket is bad
If you are getting white smoke from tailpipe when engine is hot--good indication of bad head gasket
Also, remove radiator cap while engine is running BUT NOT HOT YET. A blown headgasket will leak cylinder pressure into the cooling system; it will show up as anything from small bubbles in the coolant to coolant spurting out of the radiator filler.
Did you use the correct oil when changing?
Did you change the oil filter at each oil change?
Do you drive in dusty conditions. Have you changed the air cleaner.?
Why do you think the oil level was low ? Did you check for leaks around the sump plug & filter O ring? Did you check the dip stick level after filling ? Any oil drips on your garage floor? Engine oil seal problems?
Are you sure that you did not overfill the sump & cause foaming with the cranks whipping up the oil like an egg beater.
Does the exhaust have a "old banger " burnt oil smell ? To loose a couple of litres by burning it sounds like broken rings.
If you are pushing water vapour out of the exhaust your radiator level would be falling rapidly.
If you had white emulsified sludge in the sump it could be caused by a head gasket leak.
I would ask for a second opinion from another MB dealer & have some head gasket & cylinder pressure tests done.
I do not know whether these engines are prone to fuel leaking into the sump diluting the oil then flashing off when heated.
If the smoke appears at start up it may be valve stem seals leaking into the combustion chambers.
Keep cool & logical & keep us informed . Good luck.
As far as mechanically, was the oil contaminated with water when they first changed it, or even now? If so, it is almost surely a head/head gasket issue. If it has been leaking for a while, it would make the oil look pretty foamy, chunky, nasty, etc, etc and that is not a sign of improper maintainance but a mechanical problem...covered under warranty.
Looking forward to seeing how this plays out. Good Luck and let us know!
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Did you use the correct oil when changing?
*yes correct oil was used every time.
Did you change the oil filter at each oil change?
*oil filter was also changed for every oil change
Do you drive in dusty conditions. Have you changed the air cleaner.?
*no dont normally drive in dusty conditions at all. pretty normal driving conditions minus the occasional road work dust. yes changed air cleaners
Why do you think the oil level was low ? Did you check for leaks around the sump plug & filter O ring? Did you check the dip stick level after filling ? Any oil drips on your garage floor? Engine oil seal problems?
*to me i am clueless as to why the oil level was low. its not my first time doing an oil change. i made sure the correct amount of oil was added. checked dip-stick. looked everywhere for leaks...cant come up with anything. no drops of oil anywhere.
Are you sure that you did not overfill the sump & cause foaming with the cranks whipping up the oil like an egg beater.
*i am positive that i did not over fill the motor with oil.
Does the exhaust have a "old banger " burnt oil smell ? To loose a couple of litres by burning it sounds like broken rings.
*the exhaust has like a "new exhaust" smell...nothing close to what burning oil would smell like.
If you are pushing water vapour out of the exhaust your radiator level would be falling rapidly.
*i havent noticed any change in coolant level. temp on my dash stays around 80. havent gotten any low coolant warnings.
If you had white emulsified sludge in the sump it could be caused by a head gasket leak.
*it was not white sludge. and the oil was not white or milky when. the sludge is black.
I would ask for a second opinion from another MB dealer & have some head gasket & cylinder pressure tests done.
i would definitely like a second opinion. not another dealership close to me though.
I do not know whether these engines are prone to fuel leaking into the sump diluting the oil then flashing off when heated.
If the smoke appears at start up it may be valve stem seals leaking into the combustion chambers.
Keep cool & logical & keep us informed . Good luck.
I did just wonder about the quality of your fuel but that would not explain the loss of oil.
I do not know your engine sump breather pipe layout.In some engines the sump can be pressurised by excess 'blow by' compression gases & these can pick up oil & are then burnt in the combustion process.
I had this experience in an older car when blow by gases in the sump forced the oil into the breather line which deposited the oil in the aircleaner. This overflowed into the carburrettor giving an unbelievable amount of WHITE smoke, so bad that it actually stopped the traffic. It results in a very high oil consumption. Mine was 4.5 gallons in 600 miles!
As you don't have another dealer close handy I suggest you again visit the local service manager with your oil & filter receipts & car service log book detailing the service dates & mileage. be firm & quiet & don't take no for an answer. Stay there in his office & quietly negotiate for as long as it takes. Do not leave till you have a result.Make sure you have all your arguements off pat.If you run out of arguing points start at the beginning again !!! Good luck.
has this happened to anyone else?
You haven't revealed where you are located but let's hope it in the US where consumer protection laws to help you out are better than elsewhere.
Out of curiosity, what brand and weight of oil have you used and where do your filters come from and what change interval do you use? This will be asked.
You are getting close to the end of the warranty period and even though you have started a paper trail now, you should actively pursue this and if a dealer is dragging his feet, you should get the local MBUSA field service manager involved.
As far as white smoke puffs, the only time my C300 has ever emitted any smoke is on restart after a short cold start (backing out and shutting down, 10-15 seconds) and that was likely unburned fuel which is not white.
I disagree that your situation is normal. There are two (maybe more) standard phrases mechanics and service writers hold dear, "They all do that" and "We have never seen this before" which suggests that you are out of your mind.
Illegitimi non carborundum
You haven't revealed where you are located but let's hope it in the US where consumer protection laws to help you out are better than elsewhere.
Out of curiosity, what brand and weight of oil have you used and where do your filters come from and what change interval do you use? This will be asked.
You are getting close to the end of the warranty period and even though you have started a paper trail now, you should actively pursue this and if a dealer is dragging his feet, you should get the local MBUSA field service manager involved.
As far as white smoke puffs, the only time my C300 has ever emitted any smoke is on restart after a short cold start (backing out and shutting down, 10-15 seconds) and that was likely unburned fuel which is not white.
I disagree that your situation is normal. There are two (maybe more) standard phrases mechanics and service writers hold dear, "They all do that" and "We have never seen this before" which suggests that you are out of your mind.
Illegitimi non carborundum
i am indeed in the US...New York to be specific. as i have preformed my services i have logged it in the maintenance book and im sure i could come up with a few receipts but not every single one. i dont find much of a need to keep them for oil and a filter.
as far as oil goes ive stuck with mobil1 0w-40 since the very first oil change. for filters ive always used k&n hp7004. i try to change my oil every 3k miles, however one or two changes i went about 5k miles in between.
i appreciate everyones input so far. this whole situation has got me pretty damn confused. i still cant understand how i am blowing white smoke, and misfiring (symptoms of a bad headgasket). but it comes and goes and my oil nor coolant are contaminated. then if the car has been running for 10 or 20 mins and i shut it off and restart i get no smoke. but when it sits for an hour or more and i start up i get a nice thick cloud of white smoke that billows out for atleast 5 seconds. once that stops it seems to be good. but i am still getting the occasional misfire and HUGE cloud of white smoke.
edit: just pulled a plug. black base of plug around electrode. electrode itself is almost gray in color. electrode is not worn. ground strap is rough in texture and white.
i will be doing a compression test sometime this weekend before it goes to dealership on monday. to the best of my knowledge this problem could be piston rings, bad valve seals, problem with headgasket, or a slow coolant leak somewhere (maybe intake mani). it doesnt take much coolant to make a lot of smoke!
Last edited by ...its-low...; Jul 2, 2010 at 09:42 PM.
as far as oil goes ive stuck with mobil1 0w-40 since the very first oil change. for filters ive always used k&n hp7004. i try to change my oil every 3k miles, however one or two changes i went about 5k miles in between.
-chris
any input would be great!
-chris
any input would be great!
It sounds to me like a small coolant leak into some of your combustion chambers. If the engine is a V6 with 2 heads the codes should show up on one bank only.
With that amount of discharge from the exhaust you may be able to see a small amount of coolant on the top of our pistons when removing the plugs.It will depend on the engine design whether you can see the piston top.
I had a similar experience with a 4 cylinder engine missing at start up.I could see the green coolant with a torch , sitting on top of one piston. I added a coolant stop leak & the car did 450,000 km without the head being removed. I do not suggest you add the stop leak to a new engine. It should be fixed properly under warranty.
The spark plug of the affected cylinder should be a lot cleaner than the rest as water acts as a cleaning agent. If the leak was oil it would have a carbon build up.
It is possible that you could irrepairably damage your engine by hydrolocking a piston if the leak became worse.
Good luck & keep us informed. This is a real mystery.
-chris
any input would be great!
ANY help would be greatly appriciated!
tia-chris
what yr is ur car?? there was a recall on the Cam Magnet Sensors, and being that u didnt do services at the dealership, then this could be the problem, u have to remember these vehicles, need more than just an oil change when the service is due. Im a mechanic myself, but take mine in for THEM to do the service, not tryin to void my warranty in any way.


