How many of you are into the stance scene?

9.5 et 25 10.5 et 30...pretty damn close being perfect IMO..but I think I would go in 30 up front and mid 30's in the back. On this car I dont want too much poke. I am still waiting for him to post three quarter views of the car and the poke.
You nailed it with that comment - I prefer my cars unmolested. I generally would not buy a car that has been modified like any of these cars.




sad to say the first pic i posted with the white wheels is the only pic of it slammed (****ty cell phone pic too) like 2 weeks after i ****n wrecked it...

i see your car on western almost everday.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-BGIcRBPHM
I personally hate this look... alot. It makes me want to go up to the owners and kick them in the ***** and then spit into their mouth when they're on the floor
While I'm cool with people doing their own thing, I can't count how many times I'm looking through classifieds or in person at cars and find one that's perfect- except I'd have to un-hellaflush the car. Spending $5,000 on top of the purchase price to remove garbage chinese parts to get the car back to stock shape? No thanks
The Best of Mercedes & AMG

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-BGIcRBPHM
I personally hate this look... alot. It makes me want to go up to the owners and kick them in the ***** and then spit into their mouth when they're on the floor
While I'm cool with people doing their own thing, I can't count how many times I'm looking through classifieds or in person at cars and find one that's perfect- except I'd have to un-hellaflush the car. Spending $5,000 on top of the purchase price to remove garbage chinese parts to get the car back to stock shape? No thanks
Wow, it has really had an impact on you... Pet ran over by "Hella-Flush" ride?

+1...
For example, check this out (found it within a minute)
http://www.cdmdata.com/cdmdigitallot...tlink=noparams
Love the CLS. This is RennTeched, cool. WTF is up with the wheels... deal breaker.
The most important part here is k, the spring was designed to work within a certain range for a certain load. There are other aspects of progressive springs for ride quality (wound tighter in the upper half vs the lower and at different ratios) but we won't get into that. If you have a car spring that is let's say 10 inches lenth and has a total spring constant (k) of 1.0 (fake number), if you cut 1 inch off of that you aren't increasing the (k) constant by 10% to compensate and support the same load, you're doing just the opposite (and not you could not necessarily be reducing it by 10% either it may be a significant change less). Ever notice how lowering springs are stiffer than stock ones? There's a reason for that, you're asking the lowered springs to support the same weight of the car but in a much tighter suspension travel range (lowered). I.e. if your stock springs are designed to give 3" of suspension travel over normal bumps, etc. that stock spring that has been cut is still designed to give near 3" of travel but over that original 10" of spring (using all of it).
Hope this makes sense. All of the examples I've seen where people have cut springs either wind up with something that rides like poop, blow inserts and rides on the bumps stops, or worse.
I have never seen a professional racer, shop, or otherwise recommend actually cutting springs. In the 1970s book "How to make your car handle" (don't laugh, a lot the principles are still the same, he outlines a method of compressing the spring and evenly heating in an oven, this 'resets' the ride height of the spring and keeping the same load support). I'm not sure if they even still do this anymore, but with the low cost of a good set of springs, having to take them off the car anyway, why even chance it?
The most important part here is k, the spring was designed to work within a certain range for a certain load. There are other aspects of progressive springs for ride quality (wound tighter in the upper half vs the lower and at different ratios) but we won't get into that. If you have a car spring that is let's say 10 inches lenth and has a total spring constant (k) of 1.0 (fake number), if you cut 1 inch off of that you aren't increasing the (k) constant by 10% to compensate and support the same load, you're doing just the opposite (and not you could not necessarily be reducing it by 10% either it may be a significant change less). Ever notice how lowering springs are stiffer than stock ones? There's a reason for that, you're asking the lowered springs to support the same weight of the car but in a much tighter suspension travel range (lowered). I.e. if your stock springs are designed to give 3" of suspension travel over normal bumps, etc. that stock spring that has been cut is still designed to give near 3" of travel but over that original 10" of spring (using all of it).
Hope this makes sense. All of the examples I've seen where people have cut springs either wind up with something that rides like poop, blow inserts and rides on the bumps stops, or worse.
I have never seen a professional racer, shop, or otherwise recommend actually cutting springs. In the 1970s book "How to make your car handle" (don't laugh, a lot the principles are still the same, he outlines a method of compressing the spring and evenly heating in an oven, this 'resets' the ride height of the spring and keeping the same load support). I'm not sure if they even still do this anymore, but with the low cost of a good set of springs, having to take them off the car anyway, why even chance it?
I'm into the stance seen and I have an extra set of black 17x8 BBS rk's with an offset of 35. im going to put them on my car the end of this month. i have to put some beefy tires on there so it doesnt look to weird. in my opinion, i like the beefy tire look. let me know if im crazy or not
Last edited by dewydang; Mar 18, 2011 at 05:46 AM.
I wasn't sure if the op was a troll or what, but at least the thread is entertaining enough.







I have it! Let's move on from "stance" to "stability"...thicker antisway bars for everyone!