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2011 LED DRL installed - Having issue

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2011 LED DRL installed - Having issue

 
Old 08-03-2011, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by blue00r6 View Post


Okay guys, here are the part numbers. I have attached my parts.com list as I looked some up using their site and others I simply entered part numbers. The description that comes up when you enter the part numbers is much more vague than when you look the part up through their site.

Here they are:

LEDS (R/L)
221-820-17-56
221-820-18-56

BACKING PLASTIC MOUNT (R/L)
204-885-28-14 u
204-885-29-14

FRONT MESH GRILLS (R/L)
204-885-0053
204-885-0753

CHROME DECORATIVE MOLDING (R/L)
204-885-27-74
204-885-28-74


And a capacitor looks like this :
Note how that one says like 10v and 2000uf you want one that says 25v and between 50 and 150 uf
How and where to connect the capacitor to the ledlights system???? Thank you!
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:53 AM
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anywhere really. but for simplicity's sake just put it in near the back of the LED

As far as 'how' goes.. you just put it in the circuit. positive on positive and negative on negative
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Old 08-11-2011, 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by blue00r6 View Post
anywhere really. but for simplicity's sake just put it in near the back of the LED

As far as 'how' goes.. you just put it in the circuit. positive on positive and negative on negative
Is it too much to ask for pictures of how you connected it your side markers? Or is it just positive and negative? Or details about how to wire the capacitor?
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Old 08-11-2011, 12:05 PM
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I'm about to draw the best MS paint diagram you ever seen
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Old 08-11-2011, 12:20 PM
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Old 08-11-2011, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by blue00r6 View Post
I'm about to draw the best MS paint diagram you ever seen


That pic is priceless! Who needs CAD layout tools?!? Good thing you didn't try to explain series vs parallel connections...
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Old 08-12-2011, 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by blue00r6 View Post
lol, blue you're awesome for doing that. A couple of other questions. So do you still have your sidemarker light?

So, needless to say....if you want the DRL to be on, then your rear tail lights, sidemarker and eye lid lights have to be on as well right?
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Old 08-12-2011, 11:15 AM
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you can wire the lights off of any 12v source in the car, if u want them on all the time just go straight off the alternator or a constant on 12v source in the car
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Old 08-12-2011, 12:04 PM
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yeah i just wanted them to be switched and not necessarily on ALL the time (I could have gone to the fog switch but i've never liked pulling the switch out to turn them on.

The downside to this way is that the tails will be on as well as the orange side markers (I painted the bulbs though so you can barely see any light, and then the eyelids. the LED+Eyelid on looks pretty good IMO. I don't like having taillights on all the time but i don't think about it much.
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Old 08-14-2011, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmythegreek View Post
you can wire the lights off of any 12v source in the car, if u want them on all the time just go straight off the alternator or a constant on 12v source in the car
What would be a good constant 12v to run it off of if I always want it on?
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Old 08-14-2011, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by blue00r6 View Post
Step one: Acquire parts
1. LED fixtures (R/L)
2. Mounting backings (plastic) R/L
3. Front facing grills (visible mesh surround) R/L
4. Chromed plastic LED bezels R/L
5. Misc wiring/soldering supplies
6. 2 Capacitors (50-150 uf @25v) Aluminum,radial lead normal or high temp range will work.

Step 2. Remove bumper
See this DIY Vid for good instructions on removing the front bumper
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XU6bSJ-b0mk

Step 3. Cut out old fog light mounting plastic from bumper

You can see in the picture where you necessarily need to cut. Use some common sense when doing this. don't cut into anything that is visible from the front of the car with the plastic mesh piece in place.

I recommend using a dremel with a small diameter cut off wheel for this (to get in the tight spots).
*Pro-tip: retain the screw backings that are slipped onto the plastic pieces from the bumper which you are removing. those can be used on the new backings which you will be installing the new LEDs into

Step 3.5 - Now you're going to need to install the chrome bezel onto the LED fixture. you will notice that there is a tab that is meant to index into the bumper. Now, it is up to you if you want to chance slitting the bumper in the right spot. I, however just clipped off this tab from the chrome bezel and ground it flush. No problems yet and the light is plenty sturdy without it. a bit like a vestigial tail if you ask me.

Step 4. Assemble LED into the backing plastic (may need to scrounge for some hardware) I used some 8mm bolts screwed into a clip nut that was slid over some corresponding holes on the LED fixture.

Step 5. Finagle the light/chrome bezel/backing plastic assembly into the newly cleaned out bumper holes (from the rear) (thats what she said), once in place you can sandwich in the front mesh piece and screw it all together. once it is tight you are all done with the light install.

You will find that some various screws/mounting hardware are necessary for this. I recommend installing these at someones house that has lots of extra random junk like this lying around. Other than the hardware to bold the LEDs to the backings, you should have enough screws from the OE stuff you are removing.

Step 6. Now it is time to wire em up.

**Disclaimer - You should try to find the electrical plug from the dealership, the one that is meant to plug into the back of the LEDs. This will make your life easier**

I created my own plug and it was a mess of hacking up PC pin connectors, soldering stuff, melting plastic together at the right pin width.. I wasted way too much time on this, pay whatever price the dealership wants for these plugs and save yourself the headache.

Once you have your OEM plug, put in your capacitor (one per side) in parallel (positive to positive,negative to negative) with the circuit. (note the directional arrows or polarity noted on the Capacitor. If it is backwards you will find out quickly due to it exploding in a 'pop-it' sized firework explosion. (some are non polarized if you feel like being lazy) Make sure it is securely soldered in and then you can plug the wiring into the vehicle side electrical connection of your choice.

I chose the side markers since I had already made some connectors and had wires ran out from there. you could just as easily use the fog light connectors, it just depends how you want to activate them.

*I have no errors from my fogs being disconnected.

Anyway. at this point the lights should work and not flicker. You're ready to install the bumper again. Just line up the index points on the sides near the marker lights and then re-bolt the bumper. after that you're set and now a certified owner of a 2011 c class . Oh and for extra pro-points get the mirror cover updates which I also have ($139 on ebay).


Any questions, feel free to ask. I'll try to get that part number list tomorrow.
Blue, can you please elaborate on getting an 'oem plug'? I thought the factory LED strip will already have wires coming out from the back and you just wire it into whatever electrical 12v source you want?
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Old 08-15-2011, 05:47 AM
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Blue, will you be selling your fog lights?
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Old 08-15-2011, 10:51 AM
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the OEM plug refers to the mating plug on the LEDs. He went to the fogs, so he had tu make a plug cause he did not want to cut his OEM fog plug off. What u can do is get the factory connector that plugs into the LEDs on the car side, so you can splice after them, or if your going to your fogs get the fog side OEM connector, this allows you to remove them if you need to work on them. As for the first question, any 12v source that is switched is fine, they draw so little amperage it wont affect anything. U can go straight to the alternator if you want them on when the car is running, you may need an inline voltage relay because some cars have power at the alternator tap even with the car off cause its tied straight to battery, some have an accesory tap, never looked on my benz. Or you can use a test light and find something thats on when the car has ignition on and go off that so they are on even without theengine running as long as key is in the ignition. You could even poke around and get them to work like the fogs naturally do, like when u unlock at night the fogs and eyelids light up, theres hundreds of ways to tap power to them, just make sure u reduce your volage with a capacitor of whatever you can get to kick the volts down at the LEDs
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Old 08-15-2011, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by jimmythegreek View Post
...just make sure u reduce your volage with a capacitor of whatever you can get to kick the volts down at the LEDs
How does a cap reduce voltage? Do you mean resistor? Cap can stabilize voltage flucturation, or reduce noise/spike.
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Old 08-15-2011, 12:03 PM
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yeah the issue isnt to reduce voltage it is to "fill in the gaps" when they flicker

Last edited by blue00r6; 08-15-2011 at 12:09 PM.
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Old 08-15-2011, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by benzo-boi View Post
Blue, can you please elaborate on getting an 'oem plug'? I thought the factory LED strip will already have wires coming out from the back and you just wire it into whatever electrical 12v source you want?
All I mean here is that there are no wires coming out of the back of the LEDs. Just a socket with two pins in the recess.

The "oem plug" would be whatever connects/plugs into the LEDs in a 2011 vehicle. I haven't seen this plug, but I assume you can order a Wire/Male plug for the LEDs from the dealership.

I haven't thought about selling the fogs, but I might as well as I can't re-install them. Which pieces are you looking for? just the glass?
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Old 08-15-2011, 04:44 PM
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there are 2 ways to wire these LEDs, with a capacitor in parallel, or a resistor in series. I will check this weekend but im pretty sure the factory output to the LEDs are 4v, not 12v, so if you kick the voltage down to 4v you do not need a capacitor I beleive. If you go 12v to them, you need a capacitor to hold volatge for the dips in voltage, like a capacitor for an amplifier in an audio system for when the big bass hits occur for example. If u use a resistor to reduce the voltage, the light output is reduced as well on an LED and thus a capacitor is not needed at the reduced voltage because of over feed of the power circuit. I think when I tested my 2011 it was 4v but this may have been the reduced voltage cause the car was on my lift in the shop, ill have to test it outside in daylight to see what the cars kickdown does between day/night. I was planning on rewiring mine to stay bright 24/7 I dont like the reduced light ouput at night. Ive had so many other mods going that I havent had time, I just finished my new system this past weekend
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Old 08-15-2011, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmythegreek View Post
there are 2 ways to wire these LEDs, with a capacitor in parallel, or a resistor in series. I will check this weekend but im pretty sure the factory output to the LEDs are 4v, not 12v, so if you kick the voltage down to 4v you do not need a capacitor I beleive. If you go 12v to them, you need a capacitor to hold volatge for the dips in voltage, like a capacitor for an amplifier in an audio system for when the big bass hits occur for example. If u use a resistor to reduce the voltage, the light output is reduced as well on an LED and thus a capacitor is not needed at the reduced voltage because of over feed of the power circuit. I think when I tested my 2011 it was 4v but this may have been the reduced voltage cause the car was on my lift in the shop, ill have to test it outside in daylight to see what the cars kickdown does between day/night. I was planning on rewiring mine to stay bright 24/7 I dont like the reduced light ouput at night. Ive had so many other mods going that I havent had time, I just finished my new system this past weekend
Do you see any benefits in using the your resister method as opposed to using a capacitor? It's just if we know the capacitor method works, I'm not gonna start experimenting with other ways.
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Old 08-15-2011, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by blue00r6 View Post
I can't re-install them.
Do you think there is anyway to cut the bumper to allow the fogs to someday be reinstalled? Or does the whole bracket really have to be removed?

I was thinking something like this, leaving the mounting holes for the fog light, but cutting what would seem like enough space for the LED, I am probably totally off as I am just guessing how it would fit, but I figured I would share.

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/...ax09/2ItXv.png

By the way, how much light do the LEDs provide at night compared to the fogs when you unlock the car and they go on?
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:41 AM
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The primary reason for the capacitor is related to the built-in regulator that is in each of the LED housings. Without it, the regulator does not start properly due to the line based inductance (typically causing a DC/DC converter to go unstable - which is the case here). To counter-act this (negate the inductance into the DC/DC) you need to add a "large" capacitance to the input. The 150uf @25V is one that was on hand, and ended up working. I would suspect that any capacitance (preferably electrolytic) about 47uf or up should work fine given that the DC/DC convert does startup for a short time without it.
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by blue00r6 View Post
I'm about to draw the best MS paint diagram you ever seen
Nicely done. Your solders kinda look like pubic hair.
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Old 08-16-2011, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by doworklax09 View Post
Do you think there is anyway to cut the bumper to allow the fogs to someday be reinstalled? Or does the whole bracket really have to be removed?

I was thinking something like this, leaving the mounting holes for the fog light, but cutting what would seem like enough space for the LED, I am probably totally off as I am just guessing how it would fit, but I figured I would share.

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/...ax09/2ItXv.png

By the way, how much light do the LEDs provide at night compared to the fogs when you unlock the car and they go on?
I see what you're thinking, but no, due to the back bracket that needs to be installed in order for everything to bolt together, it all has to go. I was originally only planning on removing what you have pointed out there as well. However, once i got all the pieces I realized that it all had to go
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Old 08-16-2011, 10:40 PM
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If the LED's utilize a DC to DC converter to reduce 12v to the operating voltage of the LED's, then you would not want to insert a voltage reducing resistor in series with the LED's. Even if the resistor is a viable option, it is an inefficient way to do it. If 8 of the 12 volts is dropped across the resistor and 1 amp flows thru the resistor, then 8 watts of power would be dissipated across the resistor in the form of wasted heat.
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Old 08-17-2011, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by blue00r6 View Post
I see what you're thinking, but no, due to the back bracket that needs to be installed in order for everything to bolt together, it all has to go. I was originally only planning on removing what you have pointed out there as well. However, once i got all the pieces I realized that it all had to go
Blue where are you located? I sent you a PM

As for the plug, aren't there wires that connect to the plug? Can't you just cut the plug off and wire it?
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Old 08-18-2011, 10:41 AM
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I PM'd you - but i'm up in Portland.


As for the plug, aren't there wires that connect to the plug? Can't you just cut the plug off and wire it?
Heh?
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