Mushy pedal after complete brake job
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c350
Mushy pedal after complete brake job
I did a search on this and wanted to clear something up.
So do you guys know whether bleeding will or will not help? I replaced my own pads and rotors, front and back, and now I have a really mushy pedal that goes really low. Do I have to bleed the system? If so, what is the bleed order of these cars? And where is the bleed valve of the master cylinder as I don't see it. Thanks a million guys!!!
So do you guys know whether bleeding will or will not help? I replaced my own pads and rotors, front and back, and now I have a really mushy pedal that goes really low. Do I have to bleed the system? If so, what is the bleed order of these cars? And where is the bleed valve of the master cylinder as I don't see it. Thanks a million guys!!!
Super Member
Joined: May 2011
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From: Columbia, SC
W204 2010 C300 Sport/6M
You should always bleed from the furthest wheel away from the master. There shouldn't be a bleed valve on the master and you always have to bleed the brakes when you replace pads and rotors. Don't forget the sensors too. You need new sensors when you do the brakes. I haven't had to do ny brakes on my car yet. Im speaking in general mechanical knowledge.
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19,942
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
I've mentioned it on the forum many times. When changing pads you need to be careful not to push the pistons back any further than is necessary to insert new pads or this can lead to caliper over return & give you a low pedal (search caliper over return). You should also crack open bleed screws before pushing pads/pistons back or you can damage the ABS block.
- First step - jump really hard on the brakes first stab. Try to move pads hard against discs & make seals on pistons slide down their bores.
If this does not work:
- Pressure bleed brakes from longest to shortest line & then stomp on them. (Apply hard)
If this does not work:
- Remove pads & install a set of old pad back plates & gently put your foot on the brakes to slide the pistons & their D shape seals down the caliper bores without popping them out of the caliper. Then push back just enough to fit new pads.
If none of this works then dry strip braking system. Rebuild calipers dry. Fully assemble & blow pads against the discs with compressed air while blanking the ABS unit & then pressure bleed.
Good luck!
- First step - jump really hard on the brakes first stab. Try to move pads hard against discs & make seals on pistons slide down their bores.
If this does not work:
- Pressure bleed brakes from longest to shortest line & then stomp on them. (Apply hard)
If this does not work:
- Remove pads & install a set of old pad back plates & gently put your foot on the brakes to slide the pistons & their D shape seals down the caliper bores without popping them out of the caliper. Then push back just enough to fit new pads.
If none of this works then dry strip braking system. Rebuild calipers dry. Fully assemble & blow pads against the discs with compressed air while blanking the ABS unit & then pressure bleed.
Good luck!
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Aug 18, 2011 at 03:28 PM.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19,942
Likes: 192
From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
See post #15 here: This is one of many postings. (The abridged version)
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...caliper+return
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...caliper+return
