jdmgsr

I did a search on this and wanted to clear something up.
So do you guys know whether bleeding will or will not help? I replaced my own pads and rotors, front and back, and now I have a really mushy pedal that goes really low. Do I have to bleed the system? If so, what is the bleed order of these cars? And where is the bleed valve of the master cylinder as I don't see it. Thanks a million guys!!!

Stevedotmil

You should always bleed from the furthest wheel away from the master. There shouldn't be a bleed valve on the master and you always have to bleed the brakes when you replace pads and rotors. Don't forget the sensors too. You need new sensors when you do the brakes. I haven't had to do ny brakes on my car yet. Im speaking in general mechanical knowledge.

jdmgsr

I didn't know you have to bleed your brakes when you replace pads and rotors. So all I have to do is bleed the rear right caliper since its the one farthest from the MC?

Shadow5501

No, no - you have to bleed all four corners. Right rear first, left rear second, right front third, left front fourth.

Glyn M Ruck

I've mentioned it on the forum many times. When changing pads you need to be careful not to push the pistons back any further than is necessary to insert new pads or this can lead to caliper over return & give you a low pedal (search caliper over return). You should also crack open bleed screws before pushing pads/pistons back or you can damage the ABS block.

- First step - jump really hard on the brakes first stab. Try to move pads hard against discs & make seals on pistons slide down their bores.
If this does not work:
- Pressure bleed brakes from longest to shortest line & then stomp on them. (Apply hard)
If this does not work:
- Remove pads & install a set of old pad back plates & gently put your foot on the brakes to slide the pistons & their D shape seals down the caliper bores without popping them out of the caliper. Then push back just enough to fit new pads.

If none of this works then dry strip braking system. Rebuild calipers dry. Fully assemble & blow pads against the discs with compressed air while blanking the ABS unit & then pressure bleed.

Good luck!

Glyn M Ruck

See post #15 here: This is one of many postings. (The abridged version)

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...caliper+return