What's the current favorite all-season tire?
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From: Southwest USA
Another round of ICE
Your tires are exactly where I would be replacing them for three season driving. If you intend to try to get through winter without dedicated winter tires, at least get those DWS now. But, I would do four, not just two. All that weight transfer forward under braking and steering needs the benefit of winter time traction! The rears mostly help you get going, a convenience, but those fronts can save you!
Here is what Tire Rack says, and yes, I know they sell tires for a living!
However, as a tire wears it's important to realize that the tire's ability to perform in rain and snow will be reduced. With 2/32" of remaining tread depth, resistance to hydroplaning in the rain at highway speeds has been significantly reduced, and traction in snow has been virtually eliminated.
If rain and wet roads are a concern, you should consider replacing your tires when they reach approximately 4/32" of remaining tread depth. Since water can't be compressed, you need enough tread depth to allow rain to escape through the tire's grooves. If the water can't escape fast enough, your vehicle's tires will be forced to hydroplane (float) on top of the water, losing traction.
If snow-covered roads are a concern, you should consider replacing your tires when they reach approximately 6/32" of remaining tread depth to maintain good mobility. You need more tread depth in snow because your tires need to compress the snow in their grooves and release it as they roll. If there isn't sufficient tread depth, the "bites" of snow your tires can take on each revolution will be reduced to "nibbles," and your vehicle's traction and mobility will be sacrificed. Because tread depth is such an important element for snow traction, winter tires usually start with noticeably deeper tread depths than typical All-Season or summer tires. Some winter tires even have a second series of "wear bars" molded in their tread pattern indicating approximately 6/32" remaining tread depth to warn you when your tires no longer meet the desired tread depth.
Here is what Tire Rack says, and yes, I know they sell tires for a living!
However, as a tire wears it's important to realize that the tire's ability to perform in rain and snow will be reduced. With 2/32" of remaining tread depth, resistance to hydroplaning in the rain at highway speeds has been significantly reduced, and traction in snow has been virtually eliminated.
If rain and wet roads are a concern, you should consider replacing your tires when they reach approximately 4/32" of remaining tread depth. Since water can't be compressed, you need enough tread depth to allow rain to escape through the tire's grooves. If the water can't escape fast enough, your vehicle's tires will be forced to hydroplane (float) on top of the water, losing traction.
If snow-covered roads are a concern, you should consider replacing your tires when they reach approximately 6/32" of remaining tread depth to maintain good mobility. You need more tread depth in snow because your tires need to compress the snow in their grooves and release it as they roll. If there isn't sufficient tread depth, the "bites" of snow your tires can take on each revolution will be reduced to "nibbles," and your vehicle's traction and mobility will be sacrificed. Because tread depth is such an important element for snow traction, winter tires usually start with noticeably deeper tread depths than typical All-Season or summer tires. Some winter tires even have a second series of "wear bars" molded in their tread pattern indicating approximately 6/32" remaining tread depth to warn you when your tires no longer meet the desired tread depth.
Last edited by Sportstick; Oct 21, 2011 at 05:15 PM.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 702
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From: Illinois
'08 C300 4Matic Sport, '02 530i
Well, I generally agree with their recommendations. But my fronts have 8/32" of tread left. Well above their 6/32" replacement recommendation. That's the only thing that's making me think twice before replacing the fronts. I'll definitely replace the rears.
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From: Delaware
2004 Mazda6, 1993 RX7
ContiProContact-MB Spec- 245-40-17
The 4matic has a base torque split rear bias at center diff of 45/55.
------------------------------
The 'NEW' 2008-mercedes-benz-c-class
4MATIC Cars Get Rear-Biased Torque Distribution:
"Under normal conditions, Mercedes sport utility vehicles distribute torque nearly equally between the front and rear wheels. However, the 4MATIC-equipped C-Class and S-Class sedans come with a planetary gear set within the center differential that begins with 45-55 percent front-to-rear torque distribution."
-------------------------------
I think the best path forward is 2 new rear conti's, but 225-45-17, like front. (fits the 8.5" wide oem rim)
Then search ebay, dealers, etc, for a used set of your type front wheels. When purchased, put them on rear for the non-staggered lux model set-up, allowing proper rotation, and better ride and winter/rain performance in general.
Next tire set consider DWS, all 225-45-17.
.
Last edited by kevink2; Oct 22, 2011 at 12:54 PM.
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From: Southwest USA
Another round of ICE
I feel more comfortable with the balance of similar traction at all four corners. But, if you only plan to buy two new DWS tires, I would toss the rears, move the fronts to the rear, and put the new DWS on the front. Braking and steering are more important to your welfare than accelerating.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Illinois
'08 C300 4Matic Sport, '02 530i
Most tire manufacturers as well as TireRack think that better tires should be mounted on the rear. This is to prevent oversteer (your rear sliding out) which is much more difficult to control for an average driver.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 702
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From: Illinois
'08 C300 4Matic Sport, '02 530i
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Southwest USA
Another round of ICE
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Delaware
2004 Mazda6, 1993 RX7
I feel more comfortable with the balance of similar traction at all four corners. But, if you only plan to buy two new DWS tires, I would toss the rears, move the fronts to the rear, and put the new DWS on the front. Braking and steering are more important to your welfare than accelerating.
-----------------
Pete7874, remember this suggestion to avoid confusion:
*** All Members New and some Old, please click on User CP at the top left of page, just below the thread title. ***
Then add the following to either Profile and/or Signature , selecting buttons on the left side of that page: year, model, Sport or Lux, 4MATIC or RWD, and Location, city & state (and non-US/Canada country if needed). This helps response to issues, like tires, sales, etc.
.
Last edited by kevink2; Oct 22, 2011 at 01:46 PM.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 5,113
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From: Southwest USA
Another round of ICE
Are you sure the 8.5" x 17" rear rims would work up front, for his staggered set-up?
-----------------
Pete7874, remember this suggestion to avoid confusion:
*** All Members New and some Old, please click on User CP at the top left of page, just below the thread title. ***
Then add the following to either Profile and/or Signature , selecting buttons on the left side of that page: year, model, Sport or Lux, 4MATIC or RWD, and Location, city & state (and non-US/Canada country if needed). This helps response to issues, like tires, sales, etc.
.
-----------------
Pete7874, remember this suggestion to avoid confusion:
*** All Members New and some Old, please click on User CP at the top left of page, just below the thread title. ***
Then add the following to either Profile and/or Signature , selecting buttons on the left side of that page: year, model, Sport or Lux, 4MATIC or RWD, and Location, city & state (and non-US/Canada country if needed). This helps response to issues, like tires, sales, etc.
.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,331
Likes: 9
From: Delaware
2004 Mazda6, 1993 RX7
.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 5,113
Likes: 57
From: Southwest USA
Another round of ICE
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 702
Likes: 3
From: Illinois
'08 C300 4Matic Sport, '02 530i
Pete7874, remember this suggestion to avoid confusion:
*** All Members New and some Old, please click on User CP at the top left of page, just below the thread title. ***
Then add the following to either Profile and/or Signature , selecting buttons on the left side of that page: year, model, Sport or Lux, 4MATIC or RWD, and Location, city & state (and non-US/Canada country if needed). This helps response to issues, like tires, sales, etc.
.
*** All Members New and some Old, please click on User CP at the top left of page, just below the thread title. ***
Then add the following to either Profile and/or Signature , selecting buttons on the left side of that page: year, model, Sport or Lux, 4MATIC or RWD, and Location, city & state (and non-US/Canada country if needed). This helps response to issues, like tires, sales, etc.
.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,331
Likes: 9
From: Delaware
2004 Mazda6, 1993 RX7
Here's the story...
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...g-17-reps.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...g-17-reps.html
.27" using your rears up front.
.83" just moving sport rears up front.
When checking for front inside clearance at the tire, you need to consider the decreased "dynamic" clearance of the outside tire when hard cornering, as the sidewall experiences lateral shear displacement.
.
Last edited by kevink2; Oct 22, 2011 at 08:20 PM.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 702
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From: Illinois
'08 C300 4Matic Sport, '02 530i
A follow-up question: Will the TPMS have to be replaced when installing new tires? Another words, will I have to pay for new TPMS or do the existing ones get reused?
