Jun 29, 2015, 04:02 PM
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Engine vibration when stopping to a halt
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
W212 E200 CGI
Hi guys,
I just bought from Germany, November 2009 W212 E200 CGI (milage 104k kilometers). I have the same noise after driving 500km as in movie posted on first site -
and it is going me nuts!!
The sound appear usualy when I'm throttling and stopping (usually around 1500-2000 RPM) from the turbine site. I've changed the crankshaft sensor after orange engine icon appear, but this solution helped me only for one day and this sound appear again!
Do you have any solution for this issue?
I will very grateful for your advice and help!
I just bought from Germany, November 2009 W212 E200 CGI (milage 104k kilometers). I have the same noise after driving 500km as in movie posted on first site -
The sound appear usualy when I'm throttling and stopping (usually around 1500-2000 RPM) from the turbine site. I've changed the crankshaft sensor after orange engine icon appear, but this solution helped me only for one day and this sound appear again!
Do you have any solution for this issue?
I will very grateful for your advice and help!
Last edited by misq; Dec 21, 2016 at 04:57 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 30
Likes: 5
2011 C300 4MATIC
Subscribed for updates. I have the same issue.
I have the same issue.
I just bought a 2011 C300 4Matic and it runs great except for this slight vibration I feel in D or R. It goes away in N, P or "at moving speed." While waiting at a traffic light in D, The vibration disappears once you stat moving or shift out of gear into N or P.
The other day, I had new engine and transmission mounts installed. While the vibration is much less than before, I can still tell it is there. The mounts just help mask the vibration. They are not the cause per se. My old mounts were not really bad.
Since I purchased the car, I've been combing through the threads for similar issues. It seems that those with these symptoms have all gone ahead and replaced the three mounts. While it has solved the problem for some (likely b/c they indeed needed new mounts), many 4Matic owners (not just he W204) have not had this resolved, including myself.
there are some threads that allude to the drive axle and drive shaft particular to the 4Matic. Some have had this expensive repair cure them of the problem. Another seem to have needed a new transfer case.
Anyway, I'm subscribed to this thread now and hope others will report back with their results. While there are many threads out there about this issue, many posters do not bother to follow up with what fixed the problem.
One more thing.
What I do notice, is that depending on the incline of the road that I am on (while stopped in D at a light), the vibration *seems" to diminish to noting, while other lights it is constant. I'm not sure if the wheel position may have something to do wit this.
There is also one other issue now that I think about it. When I first got the car, it had the vibrations, but it also had this steering noise and vibration as well. IF I turned the wheel as it nears the travel stops, there was a shudder-like vibration too. Now that I have new mounts, the vibration is less as mentioned, along with much less shudder in the steering wheel when turned towards stops. Like the general vibration, the steering vibration is still there but much less. The mounts are holding/masking some issue together. These two symptoms are likely related.
I just bought a 2011 C300 4Matic and it runs great except for this slight vibration I feel in D or R. It goes away in N, P or "at moving speed." While waiting at a traffic light in D, The vibration disappears once you stat moving or shift out of gear into N or P.
The other day, I had new engine and transmission mounts installed. While the vibration is much less than before, I can still tell it is there. The mounts just help mask the vibration. They are not the cause per se. My old mounts were not really bad.
Since I purchased the car, I've been combing through the threads for similar issues. It seems that those with these symptoms have all gone ahead and replaced the three mounts. While it has solved the problem for some (likely b/c they indeed needed new mounts), many 4Matic owners (not just he W204) have not had this resolved, including myself.
there are some threads that allude to the drive axle and drive shaft particular to the 4Matic. Some have had this expensive repair cure them of the problem. Another seem to have needed a new transfer case.
Anyway, I'm subscribed to this thread now and hope others will report back with their results. While there are many threads out there about this issue, many posters do not bother to follow up with what fixed the problem.
One more thing.
What I do notice, is that depending on the incline of the road that I am on (while stopped in D at a light), the vibration *seems" to diminish to noting, while other lights it is constant. I'm not sure if the wheel position may have something to do wit this.
There is also one other issue now that I think about it. When I first got the car, it had the vibrations, but it also had this steering noise and vibration as well. IF I turned the wheel as it nears the travel stops, there was a shudder-like vibration too. Now that I have new mounts, the vibration is less as mentioned, along with much less shudder in the steering wheel when turned towards stops. Like the general vibration, the steering vibration is still there but much less. The mounts are holding/masking some issue together. These two symptoms are likely related.
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
ML 350 C200K
hi everyone,
my c200k has vibration when stopping at red lights...some times
it started with engine check light coming on
i changed spark plugs, coils, did regular maintenance
scanner code said cyl 1 something...
changed transmission oil and filter...because sometimes it felt like downshifting was delayed too much
changed engine mounts thinking might help vibration
i still have the problem
gas aditive, injectors cleaned, everything ok
will double check if gas filter was changed
will apprecciate any comments
regards,
my c200k has vibration when stopping at red lights...some times
it started with engine check light coming on
i changed spark plugs, coils, did regular maintenance
scanner code said cyl 1 something...
changed transmission oil and filter...because sometimes it felt like downshifting was delayed too much
changed engine mounts thinking might help vibration
i still have the problem
gas aditive, injectors cleaned, everything ok
will double check if gas filter was changed
will apprecciate any comments
regards,
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
2007 C280 4matic
Finally Fixed
After having my front CV axles replaced I have had pretty much constant vibration when at a stop and the vehicle is in drive or reverse. If vehicle was in park or neutral, no vibration. After notifing garage of issue, they informed me I needed new motor mounts. Shop replaced motor mounts, still not fixed. Shop then told me tranny mount needed replaced. Replacing tranny mount did not resolve issue. After reading on this forum, I convinced the shop to replace the CV axles ahain (cardone remans from NAPA). After replacement vibration still present. At this point I was no longer going to deal with the shop that did the work as it became apparent that this garage didn't diagnose just threw parts at problems. I ordered a salvage axel and had it installed and lo and behold problem solved. Learnings:
1. A new Mercedes axle is around a $1000 this NAPA re-man $100. Sometime you get exactly what you pay for.
2. Cardone re-mans are crap
3. Contrary to what some have posted here, a bad axle can most definitely cause vibration at a stop when the axle is under load (drive or reverse)
4. If a shop changes a part out, a new issue arises and they don't even problem solve...run far away.
Hope this is helpful to anyone dealing with this same problem.
1. A new Mercedes axle is around a $1000 this NAPA re-man $100. Sometime you get exactly what you pay for.
2. Cardone re-mans are crap
3. Contrary to what some have posted here, a bad axle can most definitely cause vibration at a stop when the axle is under load (drive or reverse)
4. If a shop changes a part out, a new issue arises and they don't even problem solve...run far away.
Hope this is helpful to anyone dealing with this same problem.
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 604
Likes: 29
From: SA
2008 C350-Sport-AMG-Active Agility Pack(Not reliable) +Izuzu KB6 3L(It seems Reliable)+Mazda
The lockup clutch operation-Tipping Point-?
Is there somebody that know how the Lockup Clutch actually works with regards to:
On my Izuzu the lockup clutch only engage from 3rd gear onwards I was told.
On the Merc I would say its pretty quickly.
1-Neutral/Idle-?
2-Park/Idle-?
3-a)Drive/Idle_?
b)Drive/Slow pull away-?......C-Mode(2nd Gear) & S-Mode(1st Gear)....
c)DriveFast Pull away-?......C-Mode(2nd Gear) & S-Mode(1st Gear)....
4-With the above understood, how did Mercedes took care of,... call it the "Lock Up Clutch-Tipping point", a point where the idle revs make it want to engage/disengage in an endless loop until 1-car is taken out of Drive, put in Neutral or Park(Drivetrain disconnected), 2-Idle adjusted up or down for Drive engaged mode, 3-Or revs are changed-?
5-Coming to a stop with foot on brakes, off accellerator-?
6-My point is although there may be wear in the joints(Backlash), its not really the primary source of the problem, my opinion on this. I suspect the idle is such that the oil pressure to lockup clutch is such that it stays on its tipping point with the brakes on and certain revs in an endless pulsating loop, messing with the backlash towards all joints involved, and those with the most wear shows up as the worst behaving components. With no wear(new), this pulsating action has no where to go and is clamped down so to speak-?
On my Izuzu the lockup clutch only engage from 3rd gear onwards I was told.
On the Merc I would say its pretty quickly.
1-Neutral/Idle-?
2-Park/Idle-?
3-a)Drive/Idle_?
b)Drive/Slow pull away-?......C-Mode(2nd Gear) & S-Mode(1st Gear)....
c)DriveFast Pull away-?......C-Mode(2nd Gear) & S-Mode(1st Gear)....
4-With the above understood, how did Mercedes took care of,... call it the "Lock Up Clutch-Tipping point", a point where the idle revs make it want to engage/disengage in an endless loop until 1-car is taken out of Drive, put in Neutral or Park(Drivetrain disconnected), 2-Idle adjusted up or down for Drive engaged mode, 3-Or revs are changed-?
5-Coming to a stop with foot on brakes, off accellerator-?
6-My point is although there may be wear in the joints(Backlash), its not really the primary source of the problem, my opinion on this. I suspect the idle is such that the oil pressure to lockup clutch is such that it stays on its tipping point with the brakes on and certain revs in an endless pulsating loop, messing with the backlash towards all joints involved, and those with the most wear shows up as the worst behaving components. With no wear(new), this pulsating action has no where to go and is clamped down so to speak-?
Last edited by Moto_Guzzi; Jan 16, 2018 at 01:15 PM.
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 9
Likes: 2
From: Toronto
2016 E400 Coupe 4 Matic
I had exactly the same thing...have them check the transmission mount..mine was shot and allowed norma vibration to be felt throughout the car..only when in drive and stopped...put it in neutral and it disappears...dont get sucked into unneeded transmission work...mine was just fixed today 2011 c2504 matic
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Super Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 604
Likes: 29
From: SA
2008 C350-Sport-AMG-Active Agility Pack(Not reliable) +Izuzu KB6 3L(It seems Reliable)+Mazda
Interesting to see how quickly this problem get solved now. Can these engine mounts/gearbox mounts be really that poorly manufactured, I never in my life had such a mount fail on any of the vehicles I owned.
Last edited by Moto_Guzzi; Jan 18, 2018 at 02:54 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 465
Likes: 16
C204
I have the same problem. My car is 5 years old and I will try changing the mounts to see if it fixes the problem. How much does the mount cost and labor? Is it a quick fix or you have to leave the car for a day?
How do I know if the problem is caused by the engine mounts or the transmission mount?
How do I know if the problem is caused by the engine mounts or the transmission mount?
Last edited by dol4er; Jan 19, 2018 at 06:42 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 300
Likes: 2
From: Toronto
2008 c300
I have the same problem. My car is 5 years old and I will try changing the mounts to see if it fixes the problem. How much does the mount cost and labor? Is it a quick fix or you have to leave the car for a day?
How do I know if the problem is caused by the engine mounts or the transmission mount?
How do I know if the problem is caused by the engine mounts or the transmission mount?
You can check the engine mounts by watching the motor while someone blips the throttle. The motor will rock noticeably with each blip if the mounts are bad .. Not sure how to test the tran Mount I think most people replace all three
HTH
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 816
Likes: 21
2008 W204
Update April 2018: The solution for my 2008 C300 4matic was engine mounts and transmission mount. Cost about $900 at my independent mechanic - for me well worth the night and day difference. Good luck.
Last edited by LandSeaAir; Apr 24, 2018 at 05:38 PM.
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Merc E240
Maybe that's the problem
I think u guys have to check all vacuumline, vacuum hoses, brakebooster hoses and test your EGR valve. The EGR valve could cause the low idle, while breaking to zero. Additional air messing up the fuel consistensy, causing fuel consumption increase. Somewhere is a vacuumleak.
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Merc E240
Maybe that's the problem
When I am slowing down to a red light and once I come to a full stop I get this vibration from the engine like a strain on the engine. It only happens once I have come to a full stop, and almost feels like a rough idle, but when I throw the car in neutral it goes away. Its like a strain on the engine when the car is in drive but not moving, is this normal anyone else experience this?
The same thing will happen if I'm in park and I put the car in drive but keep my foot on the brake, I would feel the vibration.
Also, if I am in park on pavement, and I turn the steering wheel I get a engine vibration, shake or what feels like strain on the engine.
Its almost like I have a weak engine
What could be the solution? a new fuel filter air filter
Update April 2018: The solution for my 2008 C300 4matic was engine mounts and transmission mount. Cost about $900 at my independent mechanic - for me well worth the night and day difference. Good luck.
The same thing will happen if I'm in park and I put the car in drive but keep my foot on the brake, I would feel the vibration.
Also, if I am in park on pavement, and I turn the steering wheel I get a engine vibration, shake or what feels like strain on the engine.
Its almost like I have a weak engine
What could be the solution? a new fuel filter air filterUpdate April 2018: The solution for my 2008 C300 4matic was engine mounts and transmission mount. Cost about $900 at my independent mechanic - for me well worth the night and day difference. Good luck.
Member
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 142
Likes: 26
I have this same problem on my '11 C300 4Matic Sport. Curious if those of you who said you changed plugs did so with OEM plugs?
I had this same goofy problem on my '05 Mazda6, 3.0L V6. Plugs were kept changed as regular maintenance. Throttle body kept clean.. No sign of vacuum leaks.. No codes... Etc, etc, etc... I had tried at least two different plugs in the car- Bosch Platinum, and NGK Iridium. Problem still existed. Changed all of my intake-to-spacer, and spacer-to-cylinder head seals while I was in there. Still existed. Also existed with OEM coils and with aftermarket performance coils. Just for the hell of it, I installed a set of the generic, Motorcraft Platinum plugs. Problem went away.... That was about 4 years ago. Problem has never come back.
I had this same goofy problem on my '05 Mazda6, 3.0L V6. Plugs were kept changed as regular maintenance. Throttle body kept clean.. No sign of vacuum leaks.. No codes... Etc, etc, etc... I had tried at least two different plugs in the car- Bosch Platinum, and NGK Iridium. Problem still existed. Changed all of my intake-to-spacer, and spacer-to-cylinder head seals while I was in there. Still existed. Also existed with OEM coils and with aftermarket performance coils. Just for the hell of it, I installed a set of the generic, Motorcraft Platinum plugs. Problem went away.... That was about 4 years ago. Problem has never come back.
Member
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 89
Likes: 2
c300
that makes sense! I have some experience can add to this explanation, my CV joint. my Indy said my VB boots leaks like hell and will lead to the whole replacement of the drive shaft if it's not replace ASAP. Then VB boots installed, but vibrant remains as before both during idle and during braking......
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
2009 c350
I had the same problem
Did you ever resolve your vibration problem? I am going through the same thing with my car. I have a 2009 C230 4MATIC (Canadian Model) , with 37K. Since new, the vehicle has exhibited noticeable vibration in the steering wheel, seat, and cabin area when braked at a set of lights. The vibration disappears when the car is put into neutral. There is a wave of vibration pulsing across the seat and floor pans (almost as if the air conditioner were to be turned on).
Dealer recently replaced motor mounts, which seemed to 'soften' the vibration, but did not eliminate it. Car does not vibrate when driving. When I am braking and the idle drops to its lowest point 500rpm, the vibration is at its worst. Dealer has looked at this and no codes ever show up. I am wondering if the transmission mounts could be the problem? I am running out of ideas, and find this quite frustrating. Anyone on here with a similar vehicle/problem , who has actually figured out the problem? Help appreciated
.
Dealer recently replaced motor mounts, which seemed to 'soften' the vibration, but did not eliminate it. Car does not vibrate when driving. When I am braking and the idle drops to its lowest point 500rpm, the vibration is at its worst. Dealer has looked at this and no codes ever show up. I am wondering if the transmission mounts could be the problem? I am running out of ideas, and find this quite frustrating. Anyone on here with a similar vehicle/problem , who has actually figured out the problem? Help appreciated
.I thought I would chime in because I had this problem for quite sometime. Was first told it was a cracked control arm causing the vibration, got that fixe and did not resolve the issue. Got it diagnosed again and for my car it turned out to be the mounter mounts and transmission mounts. Got that replaced and seems to have resolved my issue but shortly after my check engine came on lol might be a Lexus guy after this is all done and sorted. Hope this helps someone
