- Mercedes-Benz C-Class: Why does My Car Dies right when it Starts?
Guide to diagnose trouble and recommended solutions
Browse all: Engine Diagnostics
2008 C300 won't start
Kbb.con shows nearly double for my car - 2008 C350 with 75k miles in the SF Bay Area.
$15,145 as trade-in and $16,553 in very good condition - which covers the top 26% of cars.
Where did you find your abysmal $8k number?
For example, codeblue will tell you:
Mercedes-Benz and Lexus Top Customer Satisfaction Survey
Mercedes-Benz ranks highest in sales satisfaction among luxury brands
I am not sure what his point or goal is... I mean, as far as we know, he still owns his C-Class and yet the crap he continues to post, all the criticism, if it is going to hurt anyone, it will end up hurting him equally when he tries to sell or trade in!
Seriously, I don't know whether to laugh at some of the nonsense he posts or whether to feel sympathetic...
IGB is a known troll in this forum, who takes up bandwidth accusing people who complain of the EIS/ESL problem of wanting freebies and not wealthy enough to own a Mercedes. He is a useless parasite.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/new-ELV-ESL-s...item1c4c869c52
My 09 C350 same problem at about 78K miles.
Talked to MBUSA. The guys there are not the least helpful. I am within the extended warranty mileage limit, but am outside the warranty date by about 9 months.
I can't believe MB is getting away without doing a proper recall for this issue.
Is the bad electronic steering lock and the cam solenoid problem the same ?
I bought the car used at Acura of Fremont here in California. I was wondering since I bought their extended warranty, will it cover the cost? Can I take it to a MB dealer? My car has less than 70k miles.
Hi, I have the same car and problem. How did things turn out with the MB Fremont dealer ?
Thanks
The most common reported problem in the won't start scenario is the ESL failure, which will run about $1200 to fix. Several people including myself have negotiated this cost down with the dealer on grounds that it's a manufacturing defect.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




The old parts please ask for the parts replaced and take them home and photograph them put them on this thread, they are yours by the way.
Most likely these parts are repairable by someone possible by replacing the $35.00 drive motor, kindly linked by charles.soori
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/new-ELV-ESL-s...item1c4c869c52
I am new to Mercedes this and problems sound like it is repairable.
Photos in detail of, if they were disassembled all the better.
ESL:
ELV:
Dave.
Please go here and fill out a complaint if the electronic ignition has gone bad, they wont recall it if we don't let them know this is happening.
Please go here and fill out a complaint if the electronic ignition has gone bad, they wont recall it if we don't let them know this is happening.
Quoting NHTSA's "Motor Vehicle Safety Defects and Recalls Campaigns"
When a motor vehicle or item of motor vehicle equipment (including tires) does not comply with a Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard.
When there is a safety-related defect in the vehicle or equipment.
The United States Code for Motor Vehicle Safety (Title 49, Chapter 301) defines motor vehicle safety as “the performance of a motor vehicle or motor vehicle equipment in a way that protects the public against unreasonable risk of accidents occurring because of the design, construction, or performance of a motor vehicle, and against unreasonable risk of death or injury in an accident, and includes nonoperational safety of a motor vehicle .” A defect includes “any defect in performance, construction, a component, or material of a motor vehicle or motor vehicle equipment .” Generally, a safety defect is defined as a problem that exists in a motor vehicle or item of motor vehicle equipment that:
➧ poses a risk to motor vehicle safety, and
➧ may exist in a group of vehicles of the same design or manufacture, or items of equipment of the same type and manufacture .
Main problem is that Mercedes put a $0.10 motor inside the steering lock which draws 3-5 amps, almost as the first generation W202/208/210 steering locks, but the size of the motor is 1/2 the size. You can see W204 ESL motor on the left and W210 motor on the right.

The motors are available for sale, but the biggest problem is that when the ESL stops moving after a few attempts a software flag is set and the ESL is disabled. Even if the motor is replaced it will not work. usually the ESL can be programmed by the dealer only with the orange/blue key, but I have special equipment that can extract the required information from the ESL and EIS, reset the ESL and then re-program it.
W204 ESL:



We still didn't fix the problem yet I'm in the process of just buying the software and hardware and doing it myself and then going to help other in Canada as everyone I ask wants the same prices as a dealer, but your price is reasonable.
Main problem is that Mercedes put a $0.10 motor inside the steering lock which draws 3-5 amps, almost as the first generation W202/208/210 steering locks, but the size of the motor is 1/2 the size. You can see W204 ESL motor on the left and W210 motor on the right.

The motors are available for sale, but the biggest problem is that when the ESL stops moving after a few attempts a software flag is set and the ESL is disabled. Even if the motor is replaced it will not work. usually the ESL can be programmed by the dealer only with the orange/blue key, but I have special equipment that can extract the required information from the ESL and EIS, reset the ESL and then re-program it.
W204 ESL:



We still didn't fix the problem yet I'm in the process of just buying the software and hardware and doing it myself and then going to help other in Canada as everyone I ask wants the same prices as a dealer, but your price is reasonable.
If you are not used to precise electronics repair better stick with the emulators when the steering lock is blocked (software block).
If you have questions please do not hesitate to contact me.




Does the physical steering lock bolt and motor get removed from the housing when you go for a emulator set up.
And in your opinion what is best to do with a car which shows no problems, leave alone, replace the motor at x miles or x age and avoid having to buy a EIS?
I can see '08 models failing mostly now, but I have fixed some '10 and one '11 GLK. Looks like everyone of them will fail eventually. Preventative replacing the motor inside may fix the problem, or may create more problems. Most motors sold on the market have some small differencies here and there. Many have success with aftermarket motors, but i use OEM only.
Have you checked fuses? The starter has multiple fuses that must be checked... And according to the attached pdf, check fuses 6, 7, 19 & 27 all of which are in the engine compartment...
Hope this helps!




