Fuel Economy Falling, DPF issue?
I had warning light come on diagnosed as P2626 - which I think is DPF full. Reset light which has not come on again. However fuel economy still dropping with no other fault codes. Only other recent changes are fuel filter (at around time MPG started to drop - was 40MPG now closer to 34 MPG).
Am I right in thinking that DPF is now full?
Would blocked DPF reduce MPG - seems logical?
Why no reapperance of warning light?
Do DPFs have finite life (mine close to 100,000)?
Any experiences of:
a) additives and blast on motorway?
b) garage clean of DPF?
c) professional clean on DPF?
d) aftermarekt DPFs?
e) remove and delete DPF?
Lots to take in but I hope this will be useful to others too.
Mat
I had warning light come on diagnosed as P2626 - which I think is DPF full. Reset light which has not come on again. However fuel economy still dropping with no other fault codes. Only other recent changes are fuel filter (at around time MPG started to drop - was 40MPG now closer to 34 MPG).
Am I right in thinking that DPF is now full?
Would blocked DPF reduce MPG - seems logical?
Why no reapperance of warning light?
Do DPFs have finite life (mine close to 100,000)?
Any experiences of:
a) additives and blast on motorway?
b) garage clean of DPF?
c) professional clean on DPF?
d) aftermarekt DPFs?
e) remove and delete DPF?
Lots to take in but I hope this will be useful to others too.
Mat

Was the fuel filter the correct MB part ? Just a thought .
There are catalytic convertors in your exhaust which may be also hindering the flow.
Do you notice whether your DPF is regenerating at regular intervals ? . IE burning off smell.
How is the cars performance . Is there any power loss?
"Common issues are jammed turbo vanes, air flow sensors, EGR valve blocked, boost pressure sensor faults or vacuum leak to the turbo control valve or damaged intake manifold flaps." source Ausmbtec on this site.
I have heard of people cleaning DPF's whth high pressure cleaners but do not know of the outcome.
Many moons ago there were industrial carbon remover chemicals which I used to clean marine diesel exhaust valves but I do not know whether they are still available or if they would damage the DPF.
Removal of the obnoxious thing would be the answer but you would have to consider the local laws & the calibration of the differential pressure sensors.
You may receive more help on the MB World Diesel Forum.
I would be interested to know the outcome.
JC
I had warning light come on diagnosed as P2626 - which I think is DPF full. Reset light which has not come on again. However fuel economy still dropping with no other fault codes. Only other recent changes are fuel filter (at around time MPG started to drop - was 40MPG now closer to 34 MPG).
Am I right in thinking that DPF is now full?
Would blocked DPF reduce MPG - seems logical?
Why no reapperance of warning light?
Do DPFs have finite life (mine close to 100,000)?
Any experiences of:
a) additives and blast on motorway?
b) garage clean of DPF?
c) professional clean on DPF?
d) aftermarekt DPFs?
e) remove and delete DPF?
Lots to take in but I hope this will be useful to others too.
Mat

On advice from my MB mechanic I have found that when my fuel economy is dropping I go for long drive and immediately my economy increases by about 10-15%
I am not sure DPF removal is good idea - could it cause other issues?
Mat
I am not sure DPF removal is good idea - could it cause other issues?
Mat

1 Drag ie incorrect tire pressure
2 incorrect fuel air mix
3 poor disposal of waste products
1 is easily checked
2 ECU problems, air filter, injectors, turbine, turbine control ETC and sensors lambda sensor perhaps even the wrong oil?
3 Particulate filter exhaust leakage
Last week I noticed my oil burner was not running properly so I went on a 400 mile quick drive. all come back to normal
http://www.lambdapower.co.uk/TechNotes/Tech-12.asp
read this it may give you more insight
Thanks for the Lamba link. Very interesting & filed way.
What do you think clogs up on your 220CDI to cause your problem?
Do you have a DPF ?
JC
I am not sure DPF removal is good idea - could it cause other issues?
Mat

Take a look at this process :- http://www.otctools.com/products/www...er_Cleaner.com
Removal of the DPF would need some homework done regarding local pollution laws & making sure the sensors on the DPF are programed correctly so no regeneration will take place in advertently.
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The remaining particulates still made by the Diesel engine are trapped in filters located in the exhaust system, called particulate filters. Obviously, given time these filters will clog up and require cleaning. This is done under the control of the ECU and is termed "filter regeneration". Diesel exhaust because of its inherent thermal efficiency is not hot enough to oxidise the soot that has been collected on the filters, so the ECU opens the injector again right at the end of the combustion cycle, thus allowing unburned fuel to enter the exhaust system. This happens occasionally (approximately every 500-1000km) during steady cruising conditions, the fuel ignites in the hot exhaust and raises the temperature to about 650 degrees C, above the oxidation point of the soot. This completes the combustion within the filter, oxidising the soot particles and thus cleaning the filter. The soot particles are liberated from the filter, are carried out of the exhaust along with the normal exhaust gas flow, and discharged into the atmosphere.
Last edited by Big Daddy; Jan 28, 2013 at 01:03 AM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
If I catch the turbo out when accellerating I leave a trail of black smoke.
My 220CDI was built in late 2007 & has two cats only.

And don't forget Cats. These vehicles do clog their cats in certain service/age. EGR valves clog more often than one might think as well.
EDIT: a bad 02/lambda sensor should throw a code.
So yes it's all about air into the engine/exhaust gas out of the engine & proper fuel metering.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Jan 28, 2013 at 07:05 AM.
I changed air filter in Jan as that was my first thought. No real difference. Tyres are checked weekly.
My journeys are mainly 45 mins but at gentle throttle - 1300-1800 RPM (it is an auto so hard to thrash).
I am going to get a second opinion tomorrow so may know more. I hope to get a readout of pressure differential across DPF at idle and say 2000 RPM (but not actually moving) maybe I will get an airflow reading from MAF sensor and see if that is in spec - as they drift out of spec over time. Depending on that I may chuck in some DPF cleaner and take for a good long motorway thrash but knocked down a cog. Otherwise I shall examine and clean EGR in case stuck/sticking open.
One thing I did notice was that from cold start up the MPG drops from about 40MPG down to close to 30MPG over first 4-5 miles or so and then gradually recovers. I got it up to 38 MPG average over a 22 mile run lasting 45 mins today. But I was driving like I was carrying nitro-glycerine! I wonder if this profile gives a clue to a warm up/temperature sensing issues (maybe cold weather and colder starts do not help).
Any ideas let me know. If I get any good info tomorrow I shall let you know.
Incidentally I was quoted £600-£800 for DPF removal and ECU delete, almost half as bad a a new DPF. Alternative may be an ultrasonic/solvent clean at £200 plus removal/refit.
Mat
Always keep an eye on your thermostat temperature, if it is not getting above 80 odd replace it, for a start the ecu overfuels, a lot when only getting to 70ºc and still a fair amount at 80ºc, but also the dpf will never regenerate and will get blocked.
A few guys on the BMW forum have been told they needed new DPF fitted, but then swapped their thermostats and the car suddenly regens and they are good for another 100k miles.
Thermostat needs to be a serviceable part now imho, at least checked every year.
Incidentally, I got a friendly garage to clean DPF with a solvent made by Tunap. This made a big difference and it was pretty well cogged up - maybe because of over fuelling and no regens. The Tunap clean involved removal introduction of solvent and then refit plus good blast out. This may help others if they want to try a process that cost <£220 inc VAT.
I shall post an update soon.
Mat
Thank you all.
M
Thank you all.
M


Thank you all.
M
What was the dashboard reading of coolant temperature ?


How much was the thermostat and the part number?
Mine is normally between 80C/176F to 88C/190F with an outside temp of 20C/68F to 30C/86F. If the outside temp is really hot > 42C/108F, the coolant is slightly above 95C/203F. Hotest was 99C or 210F with outside temp of 46C/115F, AC on and in traffic. AC was not working very well, unless constantly moving.

PS. not sure which car we are talking about, this is a W204 forum but from the signatures I find W203 mentioned.


My switch failed at 60,000 miles/5 years. The brake light behaved normal. Was detected with a STAR diagnosis tool (5 minutes). Takes under 20 minutes to change.



