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Thank you for the info. The dealership service department told me that there was a bulletin which called for a programming of the engine control unit so they installed the new software in the engine control unit. Unfortunately, the problem was not resolved. Did your dealership recommend flashing the complete ECU or something different? Do you keep the invoice from the dealership by any chance? I think it probably states exactly what was the fix with the op-codes. I would highly appreciate your help if not too much to ask. I have the same C250 Sports Coupe as yours. Thank you
Stoyan
I will look for it. I've had so many trips to the dealer this year that I have piles of paperwork. Some are at my office.
I recall my paperwork said something similar to what you mentioned above.
What happened to me is I was pulling out into heavy traffic on a left hand turn. I hit the throttle hard and the power just cut out when the RPMs were somewhere over 4,000 like there was a fuel cut. Then the throttle just became very unresponsive. I had it floored and the car was just accelerating very slow. My feeling was the car was in some sort of safe mode or not building boost.
Once I restarted the car it was fine but still had the CEL.
Thank you for checking this for me. This is exactly what happened to me too...left turn, accelerating and then the car going into a limp mode with no power...not just once but few times in a couple of months period. Kind of dangerous to drive especially if someone is tailgating you.
This happened today to my C63 AMG after it's first maintenance with the dealer. Running a Rebellion Piggy back tune. Car worked fine on the drive back to work then after work it wouldn't turn on. Had to restart car 3 times. On the highway the accelerator stopped working but pressing the gas had the RPMs bouncing. Started the car after I pulled over and it kept happened on the drive home multiple times. Had to tap the brake to have the car re-engage with the gears. Was not driving hard or anything.
My 2013 c250 experiences the same problem...As long as I ease it around and not drive it hard it does fine....but if I accelerate hard or aggressively the check engine light immediately comes on and the car starts to shake and sputter. I can put it on a machine and clear the codes and it will run fine again as if nothing had happened.....the codes that show up are P0002 and P2539....it says that it is a low pressure fuel system sensor circuit. What has me buffaloed is the fact that as soon as you clear the code it runs fine....makes me think it is a short.... A corroded contact.... Or an actual sensor as suggested.
My car is out of warranty and I would like to fix this problem my self or as inexpensive as possible....I don't want a dealer to do a weeks worth of trial and error on my car and then not fix it and charge me an arm and a leg....If anyone knows the answer I am open for suggestions
If it's the software flash required I don't know if there is any way around the dealer.
My code had to do with a low fuel pressure code too. Although I think that was the generic ODBII code. I think star had more detail. After getting the ECU flashed it has been fine.
It's really a safety issue. I'm surprised they don't do a recall on this if there is bad software out there.
I never really thought it was a safety issue until...
It happened to me the other day while i was overtaking a truck in a single oncoming traffic lane. Luckily i was able to pass the truck and duck back in to the correct lane before the oncoming car reached myself and the truck.
A very, very bad scenario.
My car is booked in for this Wednesday 27th, but unless they can make it happen while the car is with Merc, then i doubt they will do anything.
Can everyone give me all the information they have (apart from whats already been mentioned) so that i can go into the dealership with as much knowledge as possible.
Much appreciate.
-
DC
It happened again on Sunday and the Engine light came on. On Monday morning the light was still on, but the car ran as per 'normal'.
I took it to the dealership so they could pulg the Star Diagnostic in and pull codes etc.
They did so and something regarding "Fuel Pressure" was flagged.
The car is going in tomorrow as scheduled, i will update you when i know more.
(Hopefully with a solution)
It sounds like the same issue I had. I'd be curious if you could find out any more. All my dealer could tell me was there was a manufacturer bulletin that involved updating the ECU.
It only happened to me one but hasn't returned since the ECU update.
No specific CODE details as yet, i have asked MB to send me a copy of the Star Diagnostic Results/Report. I should see that in the post within a few days.
Hoping with the ECU and TCU software updates all will be resolved.
Time will tell...
Time will tell, and tell it did.
I drove the car for 15 minutes this morning and boom... it happened again.
I took it straight back to the dealership for them to investigate further. I have pushed for a replacement fuel pump. We will see what happens.
For the record:
This problem has happened 5 days consecutively now!
Slowly loosing faith in the 3 pointed star.
This happened to me today while test driving a 2012 S65 AMG!! 38k miles. I hadn't driven it hard yet. 1/4 tank of gas, hit a sweeping turn at low speed 50mph and then it was like someone shut the gas off. Transmission still shifted fine, but no power... Just limped back to dealer. I like the car too. Crap.
Just another update...
so after my previous "FIX"...i was driving to work the following day (approx 10-15mins into the drive and it happened again.
I drove it straight to the dealership to investigate it in more depth.
They did so...
The problem is the FUEL PRESSURE FILTER.
The BIG problem...it is mounted INSIDE the fuel tank.
Access to the fuel tank is gained under the passenger (AUS SPEC) rear seat.
Cost...$3005.00AUD repair!!!!!!!!!!!!
I still have 1yr left of my warranty. But Mercedes Benz are pushing back and stating that this is not a part that falls under warranty.
They have reduced the price to around $1800AUD.
I dont see why i should have to pay for this part which has clearly failed.
PS: this back and forth stalemate has been going for 2.5wks.
Just another update...
so after my previous "FIX"...i was driving to work the following day (approx 10-15mins into the drive and it happened again.
I drove it straight to the dealership to investigate it in more depth.
They did so...
The problem is the FUEL PRESSURE FILTER.
The BIG problem...it is mounted INSIDE the fuel tank.
Access to the fuel tank is gained under the passenger (AUS SPEC) rear seat.
Cost...$3005.00AUD repair!!!!!!!!!!!!
I still have 1yr left of my warranty. But Mercedes Benz are pushing back and stating that this is not a part that falls under warranty.
They have reduced the price to around $1800AUD.
I dont see why i should have to pay for this part which has clearly failed.
PS: this back and forth stalemate has been going for 2.5wks.
FUN...ERRRRR!!!!!!!!!
It completely deteriorates the quality of the car. I would push them to cover it if not by warrentee, but good will...
Sorry ppl. Ive been super busy but Great News...MB covered it!
They changed the fuel filter with a new one (not reconditioned) and the car (so far, fingers crossed) runs how it should.
I guess the advice here, is to be polite during your correspondence with the service advisor. Be firm with pushing them to find a solution/resolution.
@Josh - I dont know enough to say Y/N, but id lean to the Y!!!
@michail71 - The fuel is the problem, but the filter location is the expense in this repair.
Hello guys I'm new in the forum world. I have been reading a bunch of the forums about the same issue I have experienced. I as well put my car on sport mode, and the red light I accelerated or bolted. Right on the 3rd gear my car lost power and couldn't accelerated more check engine light turned, so I switched it to E drive and it drove just fine. I got my code read and I got P0002, re-searched it seems like fuel rail issue. If anyone has any advise plz let me know. I have a 2012 mercedes C250 blue efficiency. My car has 42,000 miles. I just wanted to see if it is severe problem before i go to a dealer get robbed or if it is just an over boost situation. Thank you. Everybody
My 2013 has been at the dealer three times in the past year for the same issue. 2013 C250 with 37,000 miles.
Always during a long trip, car will misfire when accelerating from on-ramp or when passing. Check engine light comes on. Problem goes away after restart.
- First time code P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire). Dealer replaced cylinder 1 coil pack and updated ECU software. All cylinders have good compression.
- Second time code P0304 (cylinder 4 misfire). Dealer swapped cylinder 1 and 4 coil packs to see if problem follows the coil pack (plan A).
- Third time code P0304 (cylinder 4 misfire). Plan A didn't work. Dealer replaced cylinder 4 spark plug.
Always during a long trip, car will misfire when accelerating from on-ramp or when passing. Check engine light comes on. Problem goes away after restart.
It's interesting you note this is always on a long trip. The only time this issue has ever happened in my C250 was shortly after I got it and I was taking a road trip. It was raining heavily and I had driven for almost two hours and when taking an off ramp and accelerating after turning onto the side road the car shook and went in limp mode and threw the CEL. Restarted and it was fine, called the dealer to ask if I should continue my trip or be worried and they said as long as it seemed fine after restart it was probably just a software issue.
I will admit I don't get on my car very often, and even rarely have it in S mode. I live in a city with too many lights and stop signs to really have a lot of fun on a regular basis, but I only had the problem when I took it on that trip.
Biggest source of these issues is cars that are run low on fuel habitually. I think the fuel tank design isn't that great, and it's easy to starve the pump of fuel when accellerating hard or turning aggressively, when it's not very full. The pump sucks up air, sends an air pocket up to the high pressure pump on the engine, and because it's a returnless system there's no way to get it out but to run it through the engine, which gives you that stall/loss of power. Once you stop the movement and re-start, it's picking up fuel just fine and works well.
I've seen high pressure pumps replaced, low pressure pumps, etc. Always happens on cars with 30% or less fuel in the tank. I think the pump is just mounted too high for the sump design of the tank.
Happened to me 6 times while I am driving on a highway. The RPM is higher and the car is not as responsive.
I went to the dealer and they reprogrammed the control unit but the problem is still there.
Last time I was trying to speed with a Volvo S8 and when I kick down all of a sudden all of the warning signs were out (ESP error, cruz control error, system failure) and most dramatically the car wouldn't respond to the gas paddle. So I pulled over and restarted the car and it was fine (but this was very annoying and dangerous) I went again to the dealer and they told me I need to change the transmission valve which costs over $3000
For the heck of it, I called the MB dealer and asked price on a fuel filter for a W204. Listed at around $650 CAD and the fella said he could do it for about $475. Crazy.
06-15-2015, 04:19 PM
