BC Coilovers
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C-350 2010 RWD
BC Coilovers
This is a thread for those who may consider buying BC coilovers.
Here we are! I have installed my BC coilovers last week-end. It took me about 5hrs to install them and another 4-5hrs to find the right height and adjust the camber.
For those who might wonder, there is enough stock camber adjustment on the front. I have managed to bring it to spec without any problems. I used a 24inch level on the wheel to find the original camber and I have set the same adjustment to my new set-up. I must have removed the wheels like 100 times (well, at least 5 times) I could have lowered more and still have adjustment left to play with. Also I used a filler gauge between the camber bolt and spindle to be able to set it to the right position at first try on every spring. On the rear I have a little negative camber but I doubt I can do much about it. I was thinking of buying adjustable upper arm but this would push the top of the wheels to the outside and I have no play at all.
My wheels do not rub the fenders under normal driving conditions, even on a rough road but my wife came back with the trunk full of grocery and it rubbed just a bit on the rear at a place that was predictible because of the road condition. I might raise the rear just a little if this happens again.
Positive points: Ride is as smooth as original, Front coilovers can be adjusted for height in 5 minutes each side.
Negative point: Rear camber is not perfect, height adjustment on the rear takes a little longer because you need to drop the A-arm in order to have enough room. (no need to remove the coil spring though). That is 3 bolts: the lower shock bolt, the upper sway bar link bolt and the lower spindle bolt which is a pain in the butt to remove in my opinion.
I would recomand the BC coilovers to anyone who is using his/her car for daily driving and occasional track days. I guess it would be fun to play with the damping in race conditions.
Oh yes end I want to assure everyone, you will see on the photos that my wheel wells are extremely dirty but that is the result of the winter in Canada. Everything is now clean just like brand new
Here we are! I have installed my BC coilovers last week-end. It took me about 5hrs to install them and another 4-5hrs to find the right height and adjust the camber.
For those who might wonder, there is enough stock camber adjustment on the front. I have managed to bring it to spec without any problems. I used a 24inch level on the wheel to find the original camber and I have set the same adjustment to my new set-up. I must have removed the wheels like 100 times (well, at least 5 times) I could have lowered more and still have adjustment left to play with. Also I used a filler gauge between the camber bolt and spindle to be able to set it to the right position at first try on every spring. On the rear I have a little negative camber but I doubt I can do much about it. I was thinking of buying adjustable upper arm but this would push the top of the wheels to the outside and I have no play at all.
My wheels do not rub the fenders under normal driving conditions, even on a rough road but my wife came back with the trunk full of grocery and it rubbed just a bit on the rear at a place that was predictible because of the road condition. I might raise the rear just a little if this happens again.
Positive points: Ride is as smooth as original, Front coilovers can be adjusted for height in 5 minutes each side.
Negative point: Rear camber is not perfect, height adjustment on the rear takes a little longer because you need to drop the A-arm in order to have enough room. (no need to remove the coil spring though). That is 3 bolts: the lower shock bolt, the upper sway bar link bolt and the lower spindle bolt which is a pain in the butt to remove in my opinion.
I would recomand the BC coilovers to anyone who is using his/her car for daily driving and occasional track days. I guess it would be fun to play with the damping in race conditions.
Oh yes end I want to assure everyone, you will see on the photos that my wheel wells are extremely dirty but that is the result of the winter in Canada. Everything is now clean just like brand new
Last edited by toxicwaste; 05-07-2013 at 09:10 PM. Reason: precision
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C-350 2010 RWD
Well, I did not extend them yet but I assume I can get a stock height for the winter. I will let everyone know around November.
They can go extremely low, of what I can see on the treads left I could probably lower another 1 to 2 inches, which would be too low with my set-up. I'm running 19 inch wheels with 265/30 on the back and 235/35 on front. At the moment I am at 24.75 inches front and rear (ground to wheel arch). Going lower will bring me some troubles with the road conditions here in Montreal.
No weird noise at all. Just like original ride mate.
They can go extremely low, of what I can see on the treads left I could probably lower another 1 to 2 inches, which would be too low with my set-up. I'm running 19 inch wheels with 265/30 on the back and 235/35 on front. At the moment I am at 24.75 inches front and rear (ground to wheel arch). Going lower will bring me some troubles with the road conditions here in Montreal.
No weird noise at all. Just like original ride mate.
Last edited by toxicwaste; 05-07-2013 at 09:08 PM. Reason: add info
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C-350 2010 RWD
Are you running coilovers or lower coil springs?
My front bumper is the new facelift 2012-13 AMG C63. I also have the C63 side skirts and 2012-13 rear bumper with CF diffuser and AMG quad tips. I am just searching for a 2012-13 CF AMG vented hood but I still haven't found what I'm looking for I will switch the hood and headlights.
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#8
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2004 Mazda6, 1993 RX7
The car looks really nice as is. Based on the side sill gap to floor, mabe a 1-3/4" drop?
Could also increase damping .... 11kg springs take a lot of damping to kill any bounce/overtravel.
Most of the coilover spec's I've checked show that they can't go back to stock height, they typically have have a minimum drop of ~1". Call BC. With all the excess drop available, you might come up with custom spacers that fit on top of the spring's upper seat, about 3/4" thick aluminum.
That's a bit hard to imagine. BC lists the rates at F/R:
7kg / 11 kg, 390 lb/in / 620 lb/in
BC Rates
Assuming that oem is between 200-300 lb/in, that could be real stiff in the rear, ready to give rear passengers a rough ride?
.
My wheels do not rub the fenders under normal driving conditions, even on a rough road but my wife came back with the trunk full of grocery and it rubbed just a bit on the rear at a place that was predictible because of the road condition. I might raise the rear just a little if this happens again.
Well, I did not extend them yet but I assume I can get a stock height for the winter. I will let everyone know around November.
They can go extremely low, of what I can see on the treads left I could probably lower another 1 to 2 inches, which would be too low with my set-up ..... No weird noise at all. Just like original ride mate.
7kg / 11 kg, 390 lb/in / 620 lb/in
BC Rates
Assuming that oem is between 200-300 lb/in, that could be real stiff in the rear, ready to give rear passengers a rough ride?
.
Last edited by kevink2; 05-08-2013 at 12:36 PM.
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C-350 2010 RWD
The car looks really nice as is. Based on the side sill gap to floor, mabe a 1-3/4" drop?
Could also increase damping .... 11kg springs take a lot of damping to kill any bounce/overtravel.
Most of the coilover spec's I've checked show that they can't go back to stock height, they typically have have a minimum drop of ~1". Call BC. With all the excess drop available, you might come up with custom spacers that fit on top of the spring's upper seat, about 3/4" thick aluminum.
That's a bit hard to imagine. BC lists the rates at F/R:
7kg / 11 kg, 390 lb/in / 620 lb/in
BC Rates
Assuming that oem is between 200-300 lb/in, that could be real stiff in the rear, ready to give rear passengers a rough ride?
.
Could also increase damping .... 11kg springs take a lot of damping to kill any bounce/overtravel.
Most of the coilover spec's I've checked show that they can't go back to stock height, they typically have have a minimum drop of ~1". Call BC. With all the excess drop available, you might come up with custom spacers that fit on top of the spring's upper seat, about 3/4" thick aluminum.
That's a bit hard to imagine. BC lists the rates at F/R:
7kg / 11 kg, 390 lb/in / 620 lb/in
BC Rates
Assuming that oem is between 200-300 lb/in, that could be real stiff in the rear, ready to give rear passengers a rough ride?
.
Thanks for your advice, I have set the damping at about 1/3 of of its adjustment (on the smoothest response) on the four wheels. Maybe I can try and turn it a few clicks on the rear. On my first attempt I had set them to the smoothest and it was swinging too much. I was afraid to compromise the ride quality by going stiffer but I think I will try that. I've only installed them last week-end and it's my wife's daily driver so I haven't played with it yet.
Like I said I have not tried to go any higher so I would lie if I said I could get back to stock height. I will find out this fall when I stretch it up. The spacer idea is an option.
As far as the ride I am being honest and it is extremely close to stock quality. This is not my first car with a lowered suspension and my wife was not keen to the idea of dropping her car because of that. I have no regrets on those BC coilovers
Last edited by toxicwaste; 05-08-2013 at 01:48 PM. Reason: add info
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c350coupe, Gencoupe R-spec
Front looks perfect, wish the rear was a little lower, but you you can always adjust stiffness to get rid of that rubbing or run a smaller tire next time you need to buy rubber. But looks good! I have BC's on my project car.
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Most of the coilover spec's I've checked show that they can't go back to stock height, they typically have have a minimum drop of ~1". Call BC. With all the excess drop available, you might come up with custom spacers that fit on top of the spring's upper seat, about 3/4" thick aluminum.
So, I will probably need to have CNC an aluminium spacer ring that will fit under the coil spring at its base. It will be a pain in the butt because I will have to remove everything in order to do the mod. I'm not too sure about the rear.. I will need to see what i can do there. The good thing is that I have enough play to bring it back to where I want in spring time, without having to remove the spacer.
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2004 Mazda6, 1993 RX7
I have contacted the Tech Dept. at BC and the guy I spoke with (Sam) told me that BC normally set their height at around 1 inch lower than stock but he could not confirm if it was the case for our W204. About the spacer idea he answered: «That would be possible but the burden is on you to make it work. I cannot provide any assistance with that scenario.»
Unfortunately BC is not like H&R and others, who specify the approximate drop range. H&R Coilover Drop Range. So you have some design work to do.
I'd call them again, and say you need the details of these parts, unless they gave them to you already. They should tell you what the minimum thread engagement is at the front, and a similar spec for the rear. Next find the motion ratio (MR) and square it. So if the spring location from the lower arm pivot at the chassis is 18", and the similar location out to the tire center is 22", then the sq of the MR is (18/22)^2 = .67 . That means .67 inch reduction in the spring length will give 1" drop at the tire. Then you can find the true minimum drops.
So, I will probably need to have CNC an aluminium spacer ring that will fit under the coil spring at its base. It will be a pain in the butt because I will have to remove everything in order to do the mod. I'm not too sure about the rear.. I will need to see what i can do there. The good thing is that I have enough play to bring it back to where I want in spring time, without having to remove the spacer.
.
Last edited by kevink2; 05-09-2013 at 04:22 PM.
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C-350 2010 RWD
Yes well on the front coilovers the top plate is the OEM. It will be easier to put a spacer on the bottom of the coil spring because it sits very flat and the part will be smaller. All I would need is a 1 inch thick flat washer that will sit right Under the coil spring.
I don't think I will need my Trigonometry class to do that :-) thanks for your help!
Cheers mate!
I don't think I will need my Trigonometry class to do that :-) thanks for your help!
Cheers mate!
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2004 Mazda6, 1993 RX7
You are right, spacer on small, flat bottom of spring, up front. But at the rear, should go on top to avoid the lower, contoured seat.
At the rear, you adjust the rear shock length based on the drop. Might have to do a little figurin' to see the effect of the spacer on that adjustment.
Have fun in the sun!
.
At the rear, you adjust the rear shock length based on the drop. Might have to do a little figurin' to see the effect of the spacer on that adjustment.
Have fun in the sun!
.
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You are right, spacer on small, flat bottom of spring, up front. But at the rear, should go on top to avoid the lower, contoured seat.
At the rear, you adjust the rear shock length based on the drop. Might have to do a little figurin' to see the effect of the spacer on that adjustment.
Have fun in the sun!
.
At the rear, you adjust the rear shock length based on the drop. Might have to do a little figurin' to see the effect of the spacer on that adjustment.
Have fun in the sun!
.
#17
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Negative point: Rear camber is not perfect, height adjustment on the rear takes a little longer because you need to drop the A-arm in order to have enough room. (no need to remove the coil spring though). That is 3 bolts: the lower shock bolt, the upper sway bar link bolt and the lower spindle bolt which is a pain in the butt to remove in my opinion.
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C-350 2010 RWD
I have decided to leave it just like that for the winter. I bought a spare car to drive in the snow storms and my C350 drives just fine Under normal winter conditions even lowered..
I have had my front fender wells modified to give it more clearance because I ended up with cracks last fall. (fiberglass fenders) Now I could even go lower without rubbing but I like the look as it is now and it is more ''wife friendly''
I've got my new 2013 C63 Hood at the paint shop and new 2013 C63 headlights ready to install so my mod will be completed to the 2013 C63 look all around in a few days. Looking forward to the new look :-)
I have had my front fender wells modified to give it more clearance because I ended up with cracks last fall. (fiberglass fenders) Now I could even go lower without rubbing but I like the look as it is now and it is more ''wife friendly''
I've got my new 2013 C63 Hood at the paint shop and new 2013 C63 headlights ready to install so my mod will be completed to the 2013 C63 look all around in a few days. Looking forward to the new look :-)
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Do the threads on the rear spring perch stick out above the rear suspension beam? I'm trying to determine if you set these to the top, would they then be ride height adjustable without disassembling half the suspension?
Mind taking a pic from below with them installed and the car on the ground as it sits?
Mind taking a pic from below with them installed and the car on the ground as it sits?
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C-350 2010 RWD
Do the threads on the rear spring perch stick out above the rear suspension beam? I'm trying to determine if you set these to the top, would they then be ride height adjustable without disassembling half the suspension?
Mind taking a pic from below with them installed and the car on the ground as it sits?
Mind taking a pic from below with them installed and the car on the ground as it sits?
#23
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Thanks
Thanks for posting the pic, really appreciate that!!! So from the pic I guess the threaded perch goes at the top in the rear not at the bottom like the bilsteins. And it looks like if you choose a higher ride height, it is indeed adjustable while installed on the car and you do not need to dismantle any part of the suspension to make adjustments (even if it's hard to get in there at least it's not impossible). That's just what I wanted to know. Looks like you could go higher just by the threads remaining to resolve your rubbing problem?
Do you remember if the rear spring is flattened on both ends where it seats to the suspension or if you can still use the mb spring seat spacer with these like the stock springs use?
Do you remember if the rear spring is flattened on both ends where it seats to the suspension or if you can still use the mb spring seat spacer with these like the stock springs use?
Last edited by Nero Tenebre; 05-21-2014 at 02:08 PM.
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Thanks for posting the pic, really appreciate that!!! So from the pic I guess the threaded perch goes at the top in the rear not at the bottom like the bilsteins. And it looks like if you choose a higher ride height, it is indeed adjustable while installed on the car and you do not need to dismantle any part of the suspension to make adjustments (even if it's hard to get in there at least it's not impossible). That's just what I wanted to know. Looks like you could go higher just by the threads remaining to resolve your rubbing problem?
Do you remember if the rear spring is flattened on both ends where it seats to the suspension or if you can still use the mb spring seat spacer with these like the stock springs use?
Do you remember if the rear spring is flattened on both ends where it seats to the suspension or if you can still use the mb spring seat spacer with these like the stock springs use?
If I remember well, one side is harder to adjust than the other but the shock is in the way. You will see by yourself.
The rubbing on the rear is only in extreme conditions where I hit a huge bump on the road at high speed. Thouh I have found out last night (after questionning myself about it) thay it seems to be the plastic in the inner wheel well that makes contact with the tire.
#25
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Just to follow up on this I have talked to BC tech support and verified that the rear spring is flat on one end where it sits on the perch but like the OEM spring on the other end. What this means is that you can also gain additional height back because the top of the spring is seated on the OEM spring pad which comes in 4 different thicknesses. So far these coilovers are very well thought out.
Can you or any other owners comment on how stiff they will go? I asked the tech about the range and he said it had a very wide range of adjustment but that's not very conclusive.
Also I had him give me some measurements on the springs and damper bodies which I will have to dig up and post here.
Finally, we discussed the Swift Spring updgrade which seems like a lot considering it adds 30% more in cost. However, after reading about swift springs it may be worth it- they have better memory retention, last longer with less deformation, are made in Japan, and manufactured with a unique process and material. Even though it's a lot percentage wise, it's not a large dollar amount considering the value the BC's are IMO.
Can you or any other owners comment on how stiff they will go? I asked the tech about the range and he said it had a very wide range of adjustment but that's not very conclusive.
Also I had him give me some measurements on the springs and damper bodies which I will have to dig up and post here.
Finally, we discussed the Swift Spring updgrade which seems like a lot considering it adds 30% more in cost. However, after reading about swift springs it may be worth it- they have better memory retention, last longer with less deformation, are made in Japan, and manufactured with a unique process and material. Even though it's a lot percentage wise, it's not a large dollar amount considering the value the BC's are IMO.