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Did you solve this? I have the same problem with a w204. It only seems to have one screw holding in the motor from underneath but when removed the motor is still firmly held in.
Originally Posted by fortissimowah
Can anyone help? I've gotten to the motor, but can't find anything holding it up. Do I need to remove the glove box?
All videos I've found are different setups from the w204.
Hi, I solved this in the end!
All the videos Ive seen show 4 screws holding the motor in place. On my 2008 w204 I eventually worked out that the motor is held in place by twisting the whole motor body. Its so difficult to see upside down in the passenger footwell.
On mine there was a single retaining screw on the edge of the motor assembly, but this was missing. On the engine side of this is a tab which when prised up, allows the motor body to be rotated anti-clockwise to release it. Sounds easier than it is due to awkward location and the angled extra square air duct connection but got there in the end. Really stiff but managed to lever it using a small screwdriver against the tab without breaking it.
Once removed, found the motor was almost seized due to dust (5 year old car) rather than obvious water ingress as has been reported by others.
WD40 then grease to bearings (fan end is difficult to reach - I didnt take the fan off for fear of damage as it was stuck fast), and got it rotating freely. 12v applied to motor ran it fine. Moved brushes in channels - seemed ok.
Reinstalled and was pleased to find the seized motor had not burnt out the resistor pack and it all runs fine.
If it fails again I'll get a new motor (£ 140) and replace. I don't think a s/h one is worth it (£90) as it may fail soon.
I cant remember the site I saw the vids on but they were no help as they showed a motor held in with 4 screws. Mine was held in by twisting the whole motor body anticlockwise once a single screw on the edge was removed (mine was missing) and a plastic tab on the edge was prised away from the centre of the motor a little. All quite stiff and I was concerned about breaking off the tab but got there in the end ok using a small screwdriver to help lever it around.
Good luck
Stuartm,
I managed to get it out. Are they meant to spin freely. With very little effort? No matter how hard I try, mine stope after 3 - 4 revolutions?
Glad to hear you got it out. Yes I guess mine span quite freely after I had squirted wd40 into bearings at both ends. the fan end if quite difficult to get it into so leave it a while for the spray to find its way. Check the brushes are not worn out and move freely in their slots. I believe you can get brushes if needed. Mines been working fine since I did it a few months ago.
All of this helped, although I wasn't able to remove the blower something is hanging it up. It will not rotate all the way. I did manage to get some silicone spray into the lower bearing which reduced the amount of noise coming from the motor. That will have to do until the spring when I can try and remove the blower motor again.
When you get to the exciting part, which is trying to free up the motor to remove it and haven't got hours to play around then use a 3 point filter wrench and extension bar plus rachet. The screw was missing on mine too and the little clip bit is easy to lift, do this whilst turning the rachet and it will all come free. I managed to break the pink joiner which must go to some other part of the heating system. Check your motor with a 12v lab pack and then you'll know if its dead or not.
Also check power supply to the motor with voltmeter before removing just in case its a fuse or something else!!
Many thanks to the earlier posts, most useful as I think the heater motor arrangement on mercedes is really pants!!
Hi guys, I found reading this thread very helpful, but I'm still having trouble removing the blower motor. I spent like 3 hours yesterday trying to get it out but without success. I'm able to twist it partially, but not enough to pull the whole assembly out. It looks like there is a purple-colored wiring harness on one side of it that seems to prevent me from twisting the assembly to the point where it releases. How did you get that out of the way? Is it necessary to remove the entire glove box assembly to make the blower motor more accessible?
Hi guys, I found reading this thread very helpful, but I'm still having trouble removing the blower motor. I spent like 3 hours yesterday trying to get it out but without success. I'm able to twist it partially, but not enough to pull the whole assembly out. It looks like there is a purple-colored wiring harness on one side of it that seems to prevent me from twisting the assembly to the point where it releases. How did you get that out of the way? Is it necessary to remove the entire glove box assembly to make the blower motor more accessible?
This was a year ago, but yes I eventually got it free after removing the whole glove box. Unfortunately, after getting it out, I discovered that my replacement part was slightly different (had a somewhat different wiring harness) and it wouldn't work as a replacement even after splicing in the wires. Luckily, my original blower was not completely dead. I simply cleaned it out, lubricated the spinning parts and put it back in. It's been running fine since then, so now I have an unused blower sitting around, which I couldn't return due to the cut-off harness. I'm guessing it would fit in a different model year than mine.
This was a year ago, but yes I eventually got it free after removing the whole glove box. Unfortunately, after getting it out, I discovered that my replacement part was slightly different (had a somewhat different wiring harness) and it wouldn't work as a replacement even after splicing in the wires. Luckily, my original blower was not completely dead. I simply cleaned it out, lubricated the spinning parts and put it back in. It's been running fine since then, so now I have an unused blower sitting around, which I couldn't return due to the cut-off harness. I'm guessing it would fit in a different model year than mine.
hi im having the same problem with the purple block not letting the motor twist far enough round, but i don't understand what was gained by removing the complete glove box, surely the wires in the connector still have to be disconnected, and if so how, because i can't see any of the little tab that you push in to release the wires. i know its been quite a while but any replies would be greatly appreciated. thank you.
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...same problem with the purple block not letting the motor twist far enough round, but i don't understand what was gained by removing the complete glove box...
an older thread, but others will undoubtedly benefit from this thread when they try and fix/replace their blower motors, so here was my experience: yes, the purple block will not let you rotate the housing enough, so unplug the wires at the other end first, that lets you rotate it enough. Also, there was a small plastic tab jutting out from the housing that hits the square housing attached to the glove box, and that may also get in the way of letting you rotate it fully if the tolerances are off by just a little bit. I was able to horse mine out with a lot of effort, but could not get it back in with that little tab in the way, so I removed the glove box and reinserted the blower motor, then reinstalled the glove box.
Btw, I simply greased up the fan, I did not replace it, so the small amount of noise has gone away for now, we'll see how long it lasts.
I am having an extremely hard time removing the blower motor. I can almost get the indicators lined up but unable to do so. I've removed everything from the motor housing. It won't wiggle lose. I've moved it up and down but unable to complete the last twist. I've even tried an adjustable filter wrench for leverage.
an older thread, but others will undoubtedly benefit from this thread when they try and fix/replace their blower motors, so here was my experience: yes, the purple block will not let you rotate the housing enough, so unplug the wires at the other end first, that lets you rotate it enough. Also, there was a small plastic tab jutting out from the housing that hits the square housing attached to the glove box, and that may also get in the way of letting you rotate it fully if the tolerances are off by just a little bit. I was able to horse mine out with a lot of effort, but could not get it back in with that little tab in the way, so I removed the glove box and reinserted the blower motor, then reinstalled the glove box.
Btw, I simply greased up the fan, I did not replace it, so the small amount of noise has gone away for now, we'll see how long it lasts.
I had the exact same issue, so thanks for this comment. I didn’t need to completely remove the glovebox, just removed screws and pulled out about a couple centimeters and the motor housing very freely spun and removed.
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Originally Posted by David Coppens
I had the exact same issue, so thanks for this comment. I didn’t need to completely remove the glovebox, just removed screws and pulled out about a couple centimeters and the motor housing very freely spun and removed.
Same in our 2013. That comment was key for me as I could not understand why the motor would not come down after turning it clockwise all the way.. Turns out the little "stop" tab was interfering with the grating on the rear side of the glovebox assy and so the motor wasn't really turned all the way. Removing the four T20 glovebox fasteners I could find made it so I could wiggle the motor past that obstruction. Ours was working but constantly making a "cricket/chirping" type squeak. So once the motor was out, I removed the shroud, blew out the stator/windings (there was lots of metal dust in there from I assume brush wear), flushed it out with WD40, blew that out, then applied nano-oil to the bushing, worked that in, and finally packed it with lithium grease. Got it all back together in 5 min. It's quiet now. Hopefully this fix will last awhile.
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