Project C

DanG it...they return me my money and told me they couldn't do it
wasted my 8 hours time

Bunkx9

Just wanted to shoot an update to everyone. After my OP, Mike at AZNoptics shot me a PM and offered to replace my LEDs. Like I mentioned before, he is a stand up guy and his customer service is great. Truth be told, I feel bad that I singled his product out. I spent too much time responding to the PM and when I went to send it, my browser closed out and deleted my response... I've been really busy and still haven't had the time to get back to him.

Anyway, I have the Polarg's and the iJDMtoy LEDs sitting here waiting to be installed. The iJDMtoy LEDs look really promising. They have a metal heatsink that surrounds the resistor just above where it plugs into the socket, sealed with silicon. Seems like all the other manufacturers should take this approach, as it doesn't make much sense to me to leave everything exposed to heat (& moisture potentially). I'm not an expert or anything but common sense tells me that leaving a circuit board with sensitive electronics fully exposed will quickly lead to failure.

I'll take some pics next week with a polarg and the iJDM's and post it.

Final note, all my other products I've bought from AZNoptics work great. The amber LED turn signal replacements are excellent. I also have the Morimoto HID conversion kit from him that endured -30 winter days without any issues. I guess the success/failure of many LEDs appear to vary from car to car, no matter who you bought them from.

xijonix

For reliable LED Bulbs your best bet is avoid the typical 5050 smd bulbs, if your in for those forms of SMD aim for 5630/5730 SMDs 1 5630/5730 SMD is much brighter than 1 5050 SMD, they also seem to be more reliable in the cheap Canbus LEDs from eBay.

My route I went to and it has yet to fail me is the CREE LED Setup where they use a CREE LED chip instead of the typical 5050 SMD and are much more reliable. They are also much brighter 1 CREE XBD R5 element is brighter than 6 5050 SMDs. They do seem to hold up much better as well since there are much less LED elements on a single board, less heat getting trapped and seems to in the end be more reliable.

Example:
LICENSE PLATE
For my License Plate Bulbs i've ordered these CREE LED Festoon Bulbs 36MM (W203)
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/321385601114?item=321385601114

They cost a bit much more but they're way brighter than any 5050 SMD setup that I've dealt with for my License Plate Light and have yet to fail.

FOGLIGHT
For my foglights on my W203 they use a 9006 bulb, so I used a 50W resistor and a really bright CREE Bulb setup with about 16 CREE Elements.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2x-80w-cree-w...vxp=mtr&_uhb=1
Gives the idea of a CREE setup for any H7, 9005, 9006, whatever you need it for is available coupled with a resistor for those higher wattage applications to trick the canbus system, it works perfect for me in my experience.

Resistor:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/9006-LED-12V-...ffd29f3&_uhb=1
These work perfect to eliminate my errors from my dash, however they do get extremely hot, like plastic melting in seconds hot so they need to be mounted to metal.

In the end I too was feddup of constantly replacing led bulbs which had certain smds that'll go out and flicker as they died, lasted no more than a few months if I'm lucky and I had a few that died upon installing.

In the end, I'd recommend looking for a CREE LED Setup, COB LED Setup, or if you want to go the individual SMD route avoid 5050 SMDs as the ones coming from china are dull and fail easily, aim for 5630/5730 instead.

For any applications using more than 10W for a stock setup you'll need a proper resistor setup in line, like either a 50W 6OHM resistor for FOGLIGHTS, HEADLIGHTS, & TAILLIGHTS.

For taillights you can easily look up 1156 30W Cree, 1156 50W Cree 1156 60W Cree or even 1156 80W Cree, the wattage is more so a reference of output rather than power consumption which in it's highest form is only around 9-10W. Do note again in almost any application more LEDs you try to cram on a circuit board (especially the cheap ones coming from china) sharing the same components, the higher chance of failure.

Cheers

RavenMDX

Cool thanks.

Do you have a link to 5000k 194 wedge iJDMtoy LEDs?

Project C

i only saw 6000k

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/2825-W5W-Er...s-p/10-289.htm

RavenMDX

Thanks

c350nubie

I found this one which has 6000K and 20000K I will probably try 20000K for license plate

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Canbus-Euro...b-p/10-026.htm

Project C

20000k
Pls post pictures after installed

c350nubie

Haha for sure

Project C

Lol~

sfox410

I had the same problem today, magnet wouldn't work....the metal on the bulb wasn't ferrous. I fashioned a small wire (from a clothes hangar) about 4" long with a 1/4" L shape at the end, worked like a charm....fished it right out.

benzdude

Can't wait for 100000K

Savage c-300

I'm in the same boat. I got tired of it and went with regular bulbs, but I put in ambers for a different look. I know a lot of you like the white eyelids, but I dig my amber eyelids for now. My side markers a clear but with amber bulbs as well. I enjoy not having to switch out my bulbs every few months.

Nicholi2007

i picked up Polarg's but they are not even close to white. More like beige.

I bought these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/111603716734

One of them won't come on. Any idea what might caused that?

I had AZN's but they would only last 4 months.

Nicholi2007

Update: Turns out that residue was left from the LEDs.

I asked this seller on eBay about the Polarg Polarg M-4 B1s. He explained the reason. After adjusting, these bulbs look fine and no flickering. He ships pretty quickly.

http://www.ebay.com/usr/rte_66