Electronic Steering Lock failure - DIY fix, Save thousands $
03-16-2024, 01:05 PM
#27
OK, so I changed the ESL motor with a chinese copy and kit from Amazon...~$22 for motor, EIS ring removal socket, and dowel pin remover (but, super small T5 or T6 torx bits work better).
I put it all back in and it worked a couple of times, and then just clicked. I took it apart and it worked again when not in the column. May be some sort of physical interference in the column (?)
I took apart the ESL again, greased everything, checked 3 different videos to see where the gear ring should be when putting in the motor (and I did the average of the 3 videos) to make sure I was "in spec".
I put it together, connected the ESL just to the wire as it hung down and it worked after the first cycle. Works every single time since, 20 times or so to check.
I do not want to put the ESL back in the column. Can I just zip-tie it up out of the way? I placed washers around the bolt where the 13mm nut was, and then the 13mm nut, so that there remains tension on that bolt...otherwise, it may interfere and fall back and block the motor/gear action if you open and see how the innards of the ESL works. So that spring bolt can't just be left hanging around...it has to be pulled out with the nut and washers with some minimal tension.
Maybe there is physical interference in my column, maybe not...either way, if this fails again, or my fix was just temporary, I'd like to be able to fix it again or go the emulator route if it goes awry in the next couple of weeks.
at 6'2" and over 200lbs, I am too tall and too big to be removing the ESL under the dash again a 3rd time.
And here is some SOLID ADVICE:
You DO NOT need to remove the steering wheel or disconnect the steering column to replace/repair the ESL. I got lucky and mine failed in the unlocked position, so I did it from underneath just loosening the top 2 bolts with a 10mm on top of a u-joint (yeah, no E12 or reverse torx needed) and then on a couple of extensions on 1/4" socket drive. Only the top passenger side bolt is difficult and needs the u-joint.
removed the bottom 2 bolts with the 10mm drive
Disconnect battery, then d/c'd ESL connector reaching around blindly.
Removed ESL nut with a deep socket 13mm and short 1" extension with 1/4" drive...just pushed up on steering wheel to change angle and blindly removed it once I felt around where it was
After removing 13mm nut, pushed in spring-loaded bolt blindly with a hex/allen key, and lifted/twisted the ESL out.
I did not remove any dash pieces (just the bottom cover that was held on by 3 T20s and the philips connected to the hood release. Also did not remove the T45 to split apart upper/lower shafts of steering column.
You have to watch a youtube video on removing all of this without removing the column:
To put in an emulator, I have heard you can remove the EIS (ignition key switch) without removing the steering column, but you would probably have to still remove the steering wheel as all of the steering wheel trim is attached to the wheel and I can't seem to see how to separate it. This is my last option if my ESL repair fails in the short-term. Ebay has "programmed" ESL emulators for $109 once yu mail in your 1) key, 2) broken ESL, and 3) EIS ignition switch. But removing the EIS doesn't seem to have the same awesome shortcut removal hack as the ESL, and seems would take at least 2 hours without breaking dash and trim pieces, plus also having a ton of connectors (including air bag) in the steering column.
By contrast, I can remove the ESL in 30 minutes, but still scrapes up my hand as there is little space reaching around if you are pretty tall and big.
I am going to just zip-tie it out of the way. I'll find a spot for it and see how it goes. People do the same for the emulators, so I might as well do it for the real thing. I thought of shaving off the pin of the ESL that locks into the steering wheel, but hear the bolt can also get jammed separately. I seriously wouldn't want to have to do this if it breaks in the "locked" position. As long as the wires and connector aren't being pulled or under tension to damage the electronics, I think this should work.
Update:
Doesn't work. Goes through a clicking routine, click, click, click, then 4 or 5 slow ones, but the lock-piece does not extend out of the ESL even with nothing to block it (just lying on a piece of plastic). Glad I didn't put it back in the steering column again. Going to have to use an emulator as this ESL has an issue with it, even after changing the motor.
I put it all back in and it worked a couple of times, and then just clicked. I took it apart and it worked again when not in the column. May be some sort of physical interference in the column (?)
I took apart the ESL again, greased everything, checked 3 different videos to see where the gear ring should be when putting in the motor (and I did the average of the 3 videos) to make sure I was "in spec".
I put it together, connected the ESL just to the wire as it hung down and it worked after the first cycle. Works every single time since, 20 times or so to check.
I do not want to put the ESL back in the column. Can I just zip-tie it up out of the way? I placed washers around the bolt where the 13mm nut was, and then the 13mm nut, so that there remains tension on that bolt...otherwise, it may interfere and fall back and block the motor/gear action if you open and see how the innards of the ESL works. So that spring bolt can't just be left hanging around...it has to be pulled out with the nut and washers with some minimal tension.
Maybe there is physical interference in my column, maybe not...either way, if this fails again, or my fix was just temporary, I'd like to be able to fix it again or go the emulator route if it goes awry in the next couple of weeks.
at 6'2" and over 200lbs, I am too tall and too big to be removing the ESL under the dash again a 3rd time.
And here is some SOLID ADVICE:
You DO NOT need to remove the steering wheel or disconnect the steering column to replace/repair the ESL. I got lucky and mine failed in the unlocked position, so I did it from underneath just loosening the top 2 bolts with a 10mm on top of a u-joint (yeah, no E12 or reverse torx needed) and then on a couple of extensions on 1/4" socket drive. Only the top passenger side bolt is difficult and needs the u-joint.
removed the bottom 2 bolts with the 10mm drive
Disconnect battery, then d/c'd ESL connector reaching around blindly.
Removed ESL nut with a deep socket 13mm and short 1" extension with 1/4" drive...just pushed up on steering wheel to change angle and blindly removed it once I felt around where it was
After removing 13mm nut, pushed in spring-loaded bolt blindly with a hex/allen key, and lifted/twisted the ESL out.
I did not remove any dash pieces (just the bottom cover that was held on by 3 T20s and the philips connected to the hood release. Also did not remove the T45 to split apart upper/lower shafts of steering column.
You have to watch a youtube video on removing all of this without removing the column:
To put in an emulator, I have heard you can remove the EIS (ignition key switch) without removing the steering column, but you would probably have to still remove the steering wheel as all of the steering wheel trim is attached to the wheel and I can't seem to see how to separate it. This is my last option if my ESL repair fails in the short-term. Ebay has "programmed" ESL emulators for $109 once yu mail in your 1) key, 2) broken ESL, and 3) EIS ignition switch. But removing the EIS doesn't seem to have the same awesome shortcut removal hack as the ESL, and seems would take at least 2 hours without breaking dash and trim pieces, plus also having a ton of connectors (including air bag) in the steering column.
By contrast, I can remove the ESL in 30 minutes, but still scrapes up my hand as there is little space reaching around if you are pretty tall and big.
I am going to just zip-tie it out of the way. I'll find a spot for it and see how it goes. People do the same for the emulators, so I might as well do it for the real thing. I thought of shaving off the pin of the ESL that locks into the steering wheel, but hear the bolt can also get jammed separately. I seriously wouldn't want to have to do this if it breaks in the "locked" position. As long as the wires and connector aren't being pulled or under tension to damage the electronics, I think this should work.
Update:
Doesn't work. Goes through a clicking routine, click, click, click, then 4 or 5 slow ones, but the lock-piece does not extend out of the ESL even with nothing to block it (just lying on a piece of plastic). Glad I didn't put it back in the steering column again. Going to have to use an emulator as this ESL has an issue with it, even after changing the motor.
Last edited by benzacream; 03-16-2024 at 05:30 PM.
03-17-2024, 10:23 AM
#28
Junior Member
Push to start
[I haven’t had this problem, my 09 C63 is push to start, does this issue also affect this type?
QUOTE=domwild;8546009]Australian ICU Repairs, I think that is the company's name, they fixed my ESL once it was out. As they fix ESLs, they claim emulators fail, but that may be the bull going number Twos. To check if an emulator has been put in, just remove the bottom cover rising from the fire wall. Just compare the photos of an ESL with what's behind and connected to the column and wires coming off it. An emulator will just be hanging somewhere.
As your steering is not locked, MIKEYZs video shows how, with the aid of a stubby 12mm (?) socket with some aid for turning (room shortage) you can remove the ESL quite easily. .Once out, send it to Australian .........? together with key and ignition lock and they will fix the ESL for $450 (?). Or hit the column to make the carbon brushes of the $5 motor touch the commutator one last time and start it, drive to a Merc stealership and pays $2,000! At the stealership, DO NOT PULL out the key, as that locks the steering and that will cost. You may remember that noise the ESL makes when the key is pulled out, that is the locking noise.[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=domwild;8546009]Australian ICU Repairs, I think that is the company's name, they fixed my ESL once it was out. As they fix ESLs, they claim emulators fail, but that may be the bull going number Twos. To check if an emulator has been put in, just remove the bottom cover rising from the fire wall. Just compare the photos of an ESL with what's behind and connected to the column and wires coming off it. An emulator will just be hanging somewhere.
As your steering is not locked, MIKEYZs video shows how, with the aid of a stubby 12mm (?) socket with some aid for turning (room shortage) you can remove the ESL quite easily. .Once out, send it to Australian .........? together with key and ignition lock and they will fix the ESL for $450 (?). Or hit the column to make the carbon brushes of the $5 motor touch the commutator one last time and start it, drive to a Merc stealership and pays $2,000! At the stealership, DO NOT PULL out the key, as that locks the steering and that will cost. You may remember that noise the ESL makes when the key is pulled out, that is the locking noise.[/QUOTE]
03-17-2024, 01:46 PM
#29
It happens to push-start, yours included...Mine is also push-start. But you can pull off the push start button and use the key in some cases if the key fob battery is dead, or as part of a workaround to get the car started when it has this issue (the other part being pulling/resetting fuses/relays in the engine compartment.
I pulled the ESL 3 times already trying to replace the parts and fix it, grease it, whatever. I will not pay $450 for a refurbished ESL. Someone local I found will hopefully install the emulator for less than that as I have most of things apart, except for removing the EIS Ignition Switch. No mechanical pieces to break, just a box that has the connector and gives the car the "OK" to start 100% of the time. I am getting rid of the car and selling it as soon as this is done. I have fixed so much stuff on this car over the years that would otherwise be $1000+ at the dealer for each small problem, often for very small engineering issues that other manufacturers don't screw up.
My other vehicles are 2 new Lexus and a Tesla. The Lexus vehicles are unbreakable, and the Tesla has a minor, annoying TSB I will get fixed. The only thing that scares me about the Tesla is if the battery suddenly dies if out of warranty, which could be as much as $13-15k on a Model S. Instant "GO" at all speeds for unmatchable passing ability, or simply blasting silently 0-60 in less than 4 seconds would still be worth the new battery though in a few years...it still looks like a new model as Tesla made no visible exterior changes/updates after 2016. And no more stopping at gas stations, which have probably been the only "seedy" places I can get myself into trouble stopping at the last few years. Is it a "Real Driver's" car as my AMG and M-series friends say? No...no thinking about RPMs and downshifts. It is easier than MarioKart on the freeway, just point and shoot. It makes going fast boring, as the AWD and air-leveling suspension never lose traction. I would have liked to have kept the w204 as a vehicle when guests visit, and had done so for awhile, but the accumulation of stuff like this ESL issue (or High Pressure Fuel Pump warranty, or plastic radiator hoses, or turbo banjo fittings and o-rings, and both the driver and passenger interior door handles breaking (and quoted over $1k each by dealer) make me realize I have to let it go.
[/QUOTE]
I pulled the ESL 3 times already trying to replace the parts and fix it, grease it, whatever. I will not pay $450 for a refurbished ESL. Someone local I found will hopefully install the emulator for less than that as I have most of things apart, except for removing the EIS Ignition Switch. No mechanical pieces to break, just a box that has the connector and gives the car the "OK" to start 100% of the time. I am getting rid of the car and selling it as soon as this is done. I have fixed so much stuff on this car over the years that would otherwise be $1000+ at the dealer for each small problem, often for very small engineering issues that other manufacturers don't screw up.
My other vehicles are 2 new Lexus and a Tesla. The Lexus vehicles are unbreakable, and the Tesla has a minor, annoying TSB I will get fixed. The only thing that scares me about the Tesla is if the battery suddenly dies if out of warranty, which could be as much as $13-15k on a Model S. Instant "GO" at all speeds for unmatchable passing ability, or simply blasting silently 0-60 in less than 4 seconds would still be worth the new battery though in a few years...it still looks like a new model as Tesla made no visible exterior changes/updates after 2016. And no more stopping at gas stations, which have probably been the only "seedy" places I can get myself into trouble stopping at the last few years. Is it a "Real Driver's" car as my AMG and M-series friends say? No...no thinking about RPMs and downshifts. It is easier than MarioKart on the freeway, just point and shoot. It makes going fast boring, as the AWD and air-leveling suspension never lose traction. I would have liked to have kept the w204 as a vehicle when guests visit, and had done so for awhile, but the accumulation of stuff like this ESL issue (or High Pressure Fuel Pump warranty, or plastic radiator hoses, or turbo banjo fittings and o-rings, and both the driver and passenger interior door handles breaking (and quoted over $1k each by dealer) make me realize I have to let it go.
[I haven’t had this problem, my 09 C63 is push to start, does this issue also affect this type?
QUOTE=domwild;8546009]Australian ICU Repairs, I think that is the company's name, they fixed my ESL once it was out. As they fix ESLs, they claim emulators fail, but that may be the bull going number Twos. To check if an emulator has been put in, just remove the bottom cover rising from the fire wall. Just compare the photos of an ESL with what's behind and connected to the column and wires coming off it. An emulator will just be hanging somewhere.
As your steering is not locked, MIKEYZs video shows how, with the aid of a stubby 12mm (?) socket with some aid for turning (room shortage) you can remove the ESL quite easily. .Once out, send it to Australian .........? together with key and ignition lock and they will fix the ESL for $450 (?). Or hit the column to make the carbon brushes of the $5 motor touch the commutator one last time and start it, drive to a Merc stealership and pays $2,000! At the stealership, DO NOT PULL out the key, as that locks the steering and that will cost. You may remember that noise the ESL makes when the key is pulled out, that is the locking noise.
QUOTE=domwild;8546009]Australian ICU Repairs, I think that is the company's name, they fixed my ESL once it was out. As they fix ESLs, they claim emulators fail, but that may be the bull going number Twos. To check if an emulator has been put in, just remove the bottom cover rising from the fire wall. Just compare the photos of an ESL with what's behind and connected to the column and wires coming off it. An emulator will just be hanging somewhere.
As your steering is not locked, MIKEYZs video shows how, with the aid of a stubby 12mm (?) socket with some aid for turning (room shortage) you can remove the ESL quite easily. .Once out, send it to Australian .........? together with key and ignition lock and they will fix the ESL for $450 (?). Or hit the column to make the carbon brushes of the $5 motor touch the commutator one last time and start it, drive to a Merc stealership and pays $2,000! At the stealership, DO NOT PULL out the key, as that locks the steering and that will cost. You may remember that noise the ESL makes when the key is pulled out, that is the locking noise.
03-19-2024, 01:45 PM
#30
ESL repair done
So, because I had the ESL "Steering Lock" already out and hanging by its connector, and used the Youtube hack with the relay/fuses and wire bypass trick from the engine compartment fuse box, I drove the Mercedes to a mobile locksmith I had called. He was just finishing another job and so I took the car to him. He was able to use the key, plug in and program the emulator as it is connected to the ESL connector, and DID NOT have to remove the Ignition Switch. He put my key into his programmer and his machine did the rest while connected to the car.
Took 10-15 minutes maybe.
I had a strong feeling that they didn't have to remove the EIS (ignition switch), and I was right. That is only really necessary if you are mailing it in to help program the emulator.
Otherwise, the hardest part for them is removing the ESL (which I had already done).
$240. I got lucky as I explained the situation of removing the ESL already, etc. The other guy I called still wanted $600-800.
In the 20 minutes I was with the guy, he got a call from another w204 owner for a no-start. Sorry, I don't think you will get the same deal I did, but hopefully not much worse.
As he first started, and checking my ESL, he could hear it try to lock/unlock, and click. He said it was probably something mechanical with the gears/lever inside, as it was still trying to open. Maybe my replacement motor was bad.
Even the "mail-in" service on eBay would be $110 plus tax, and shipping...and worse of all, require removing the EIS ignition switch that requires removing the steering wheel and trim.
I won this time, if you can call paying $240 for 10-15 minutes of work. Now I have emptied the car and am getting ready to sell it. Looks pretty, but it is made by Germans with Chinese parts. I pity the fool who buys a 10+ year old German car!!!! Haaahaaaaa. I don't even want to drive it right now as I am afraid the next thing might break.
Took 10-15 minutes maybe.
I had a strong feeling that they didn't have to remove the EIS (ignition switch), and I was right. That is only really necessary if you are mailing it in to help program the emulator.
Otherwise, the hardest part for them is removing the ESL (which I had already done).
$240. I got lucky as I explained the situation of removing the ESL already, etc. The other guy I called still wanted $600-800.
In the 20 minutes I was with the guy, he got a call from another w204 owner for a no-start. Sorry, I don't think you will get the same deal I did, but hopefully not much worse.
As he first started, and checking my ESL, he could hear it try to lock/unlock, and click. He said it was probably something mechanical with the gears/lever inside, as it was still trying to open. Maybe my replacement motor was bad.
Even the "mail-in" service on eBay would be $110 plus tax, and shipping...and worse of all, require removing the EIS ignition switch that requires removing the steering wheel and trim.
I won this time, if you can call paying $240 for 10-15 minutes of work. Now I have emptied the car and am getting ready to sell it. Looks pretty, but it is made by Germans with Chinese parts. I pity the fool who buys a 10+ year old German car!!!! Haaahaaaaa. I don't even want to drive it right now as I am afraid the next thing might break.
03-19-2024, 10:16 PM
#31
Australian ECU Repairs repairs ESL, EIS and key once sent to them. I zip tied my ESL to the column. Worry is the life of the Chinese carbon brushes in those Chinese motors for the ESL. Repair shops claim they are using German ESL motors, BS, you cannot even buy a complete ESL ex Merc stealerships due to "theft prevention"?
03-20-2024, 10:00 AM
#32
If your ESL fails in the unlocked position (so you can still move your steering wheel), and you can use Youtube engine bay fuse/relay hack to start your engine, it may be worth it to call a local locksmith to put in an emulator.
I was able to remove the ESL by dropping lower trim cover panel with 3 T20 torx, just loosening the 2 top steering column bolts and 2 lower bolts...then using the 13mm deep socket to get the ESL out by pushing in the springy bolt after with an allen key. Takes less than an hour. No T45 to separate the steering shaft even.
But to remove the EIS, you have to remove the column, steering wheel, airbag, tons of connectors, and lots of plastic dash trim pieces that may crack or not fit again right. And this needs to be done to mail the EIS, ESL and keys to an eBay emulator place, the cheapest around $110, not including shipping back and forth.
After removing the ESL, a local locksmith used a tool he put on the floor of my seat, connected to his emulator and OBD-II connector, and had a plug for my key...programmed everything without removing the EIS. Took 10-15 minutes for $240. I am all about saving money, but the downtime in mailing the stuff in, I am much happier with spending the extra $100 difference to have him install emulator once I removed the ESL. Removing the ESL is the only "real labor" they would do anyway...with that out of the way, it is just the programming aspect. Another locksmith specializing in Mercedes ESL repairs quoted me $600-800. So don't be afraid to negotiate. And I can confirm that if you can drive the car to them with the Youtube hack, they absolutely DO NOT need to remove the EIS to program the ESL emulator. They just connect the tool in-place and use your key in their emulator programmer...done. The guy would have charged me $350 if I hadn't removed the ESL and had to come to me, so I saved a few dollars. But even at $350, that is a fair price. But way better than $2,000+ from the dealer. Get several different quotes from local/mobile locksmiths as their prices vary wildly. I hope this helps someone else as the most cost- and time-effective solution. F- Mercedes.
I am all about doing my own work to save a few dollars, but the work involved in removing the EIS just so you can mail it in and get it back in a week or so for $110-140, it's just not worth it, especially if you need the car and can't afford the downtime. And the risk of messing something up with the trim and countless connectors and special bits/tools, it is just not worth the hassle of saving $100 to mail in the pieces versus what I did of taking the ESL out myself, then driving the car to a locksmith to install/program the ESL emulator for just $240 without messing with the EIS at all.
I was able to remove the ESL by dropping lower trim cover panel with 3 T20 torx, just loosening the 2 top steering column bolts and 2 lower bolts...then using the 13mm deep socket to get the ESL out by pushing in the springy bolt after with an allen key. Takes less than an hour. No T45 to separate the steering shaft even.
But to remove the EIS, you have to remove the column, steering wheel, airbag, tons of connectors, and lots of plastic dash trim pieces that may crack or not fit again right. And this needs to be done to mail the EIS, ESL and keys to an eBay emulator place, the cheapest around $110, not including shipping back and forth.
After removing the ESL, a local locksmith used a tool he put on the floor of my seat, connected to his emulator and OBD-II connector, and had a plug for my key...programmed everything without removing the EIS. Took 10-15 minutes for $240. I am all about saving money, but the downtime in mailing the stuff in, I am much happier with spending the extra $100 difference to have him install emulator once I removed the ESL. Removing the ESL is the only "real labor" they would do anyway...with that out of the way, it is just the programming aspect. Another locksmith specializing in Mercedes ESL repairs quoted me $600-800. So don't be afraid to negotiate. And I can confirm that if you can drive the car to them with the Youtube hack, they absolutely DO NOT need to remove the EIS to program the ESL emulator. They just connect the tool in-place and use your key in their emulator programmer...done. The guy would have charged me $350 if I hadn't removed the ESL and had to come to me, so I saved a few dollars. But even at $350, that is a fair price. But way better than $2,000+ from the dealer. Get several different quotes from local/mobile locksmiths as their prices vary wildly. I hope this helps someone else as the most cost- and time-effective solution. F- Mercedes.
I am all about doing my own work to save a few dollars, but the work involved in removing the EIS just so you can mail it in and get it back in a week or so for $110-140, it's just not worth it, especially if you need the car and can't afford the downtime. And the risk of messing something up with the trim and countless connectors and special bits/tools, it is just not worth the hassle of saving $100 to mail in the pieces versus what I did of taking the ESL out myself, then driving the car to a locksmith to install/program the ESL emulator for just $240 without messing with the EIS at all.
Last edited by benzacream; 03-20-2024 at 10:12 AM.
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hoo121 (04-27-2024)
04-03-2024, 12:51 PM
#34
Need Emulator
I found a guy who comes to your house to and installed it in a matter of 30 mins. If you’re in LA area pm me he was good at what he does. I’m still driving the car today and no issues with it in fact it has helped with certain repairs because I can move the wheels freely without the key in.
You have the guys info? Sorry I’m new so it won’t let me send you a pm
Last edited by Eurostepn; 04-03-2024 at 02:04 PM. Reason: Responded to wrong message
05-29-2024, 09:06 AM
#36
