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Dropped in some Carlsson lowering springs yesterday. Also refitted the rims. I still haven't gotten the tyres in yet - they should be here in a week - so the rubber is way to wide. Scrubs pretty bad on decent bumps.
For those of you interested in what 18x8.5 ET31 and 18x9.5 ET35 rims look like, here are some snaps of the poke
Rear:
Front:
And here it is chilling out with my mates XR50 Ford Falcon
Oh, while I was in the shop getting this stuff sorted, I thought I would take a few snaps of my other project It's a 77 Chrysler Regal with a very well massaged 360ci V8. Runs a fully manualised 727 torqueflite with ratchet shifter and a 2800rpm stall converter. Currently having central locking and immobiliser added plus a modern AC unit and full rewiring. It was broken into a while ago - dirt bags stole the full MSD ignition, carby - pretty much everything that is missing form the engine bay - hence it looking so bare.
Fitted a turbo blanket over the weekend. I will be making something similar for the exhaust manifold in the near future. I'll wrap the downpipe when I fit a 3" high flow one.
How was the fitment on the turbo blanket? What brand did you go with? I've considered doing that also but got sidetracked with the FMIC, plus with a vented hood now I didn't see too much of a need to install it.
How was the fitment on the turbo blanket? What brand did you go with? I've considered doing that also but got sidetracked with the FMIC, plus with a vented hood now I didn't see too much of a need to install it.
I went with a cheap one from Ebay. It required me to cut a hole in it to allow the wastegate rod through. The fitment was so-so. It is designed for a much more traditional turbo set up, but other than the wastegate hole, ther was no modification required and, as you can see, it fits nice enough.
My reasoning for the blanket is less to do with engine bay temp (although still a big component) and more to do with turbo efficiency. The hotter you keep the gasses within the exhaust system, the faster they flow out the back.
By the way, I have test fitted the Apollo pod filter in the bumper behind the RHS DRL and am now waiting on an order of stainless steel 3" pipe and some silicone bits to make a custom intake. I have an oil catch can that I will run the rocker cover breather through. That may be a while in the making but it is going to happen
From what I recall in my subaru days, the turbo blanket is debatable. Argument being that while it keeps the turbo hot and the gases flowing, it also shortens the life of the turbo.
As usual, I'm looking forward to your updates and interested to see how set up the intake and catch can. Did you end up cutting the stock intake piping?
I have heard and read a lot about that debate. It is usually based on older, non-water cooled turbos in which oil line coking is an issue. Not an issue for us. The other argument is how it can effect the molecular structure of the housing.
Having spoken to a metalurgist friend of mine, I am convinced that I have nothing to worry about. As he said, letting the metal cool slower (ie having a blanket on) will prevent it getting brittle.
I didn't end up cutting the stock intake. They are just too expensive. The turbo inlet diameter is 54mm so I am just going to buy a silicone step down from 3"-51mm(2") and stretch it over. I will then fab up a stainless 3" pipe that will head straight for the nearest DRL. It won't be hard to weld in fittings for all the essential factory bits.
I have heard and read a lot about that debate. It is usually based on older, non-water cooled turbos in which oil line coking is an issue. Not an issue for us. The other argument is how it can effect the molecular structure of the housing.
Having spoken to a metalurgist friend of mine, I am convinced that I have nothing to worry about. As he said, letting the metal cool slower (ie having a blanket on) will prevent it getting brittle.
I didn't end up cutting the stock intake. They are just too expensive. The turbo inlet diameter is 54mm so I am just going to buy a silicone step down from 3"-51mm(2") and stretch it over. I will then fab up a stainless 3" pipe that will head straight for the nearest DRL. It won't be hard to weld in fittings for all the essential factory bits.
I have a few pictures of the oil catch can installed on the c250. Idk how to post pictures on the thread from my phone. I will upload them when I get home. It doesn't look like a complicated task but it might require cutting few tubes to connect the hose that goes into the oil catch can.
The only difficult part is dealing with the fitting from the back of the engine. I plan to lathe up a metal replacement that a braided line connection will fit on to
yah but the piping you hooked it to runs under the engine cover directly into the back of the engine rocker cover.
I plan to make a fitting that uses that factory outlet point, it will keep the front looking a little tidier.
In the pic below, the blue ring is where yours is fitted, the red ring is where mine is fitted. The red arrow is where it will terminate after the oil catch (there will be a metal stainless intake pipe down there. The orange is where there will be a big empty space
I tried to take the red circle part out........didn't work out too well and I lost a screw *sigh* Looking forward to your intake though you said you're not cutting it so you're gonna create ports for the stock sensors to fit in on the new piping?
I tried to take the red circle part out........didn't work out too well and I lost a screw *sigh* Looking forward to your intake though you said you're not cutting it so you're gonna create ports for the stock sensors to fit in on the new piping?
exactly my plans Of course, I will need to extend the auxillary piping and wiring harness down to somewhere near the mouth of the turbo, but that won't be hard
Well my car has been at the dealer for almost 2 weeks due to pinging under acceleration. I just received the call from the dealer stating that they updated the software but they cant diagnose it further down due to my cat less down pipe and mid pipe. They also told me that the problem might be with my secondary 02 sensor since i have the 02 extender installed on the car to prevent the check engine light.
FYI guys - Go Fast Bits in Australia are nearing completion of one of these guys for the A250. It is the same part number for our C200/250s so it will be a direct fit
FYI guys - Go Fast Bits in Australia are nearing completion of one of these guys for the A250. It is the same part number for our C200/250s so it will be a direct fit
FYI guys - Go Fast Bits in Australia are nearing completion of one of these guys for the A250. It is the same part number for our C200/250s so it will be a direct fit
Well first of all, it allows for a balanced variable release based on intake pressure rather than the factory 'on/off' set up. What that means is that you don't release pressure prematurely and so it will reduce turbo lag and give some increase in throttle response.
The second benefit is that it is far more robust than the factory one. If you run extra boost, the factory one will eventually fail and you will constantly be letting boost back into the pre-turbo intake.
Same horsepower gain as carlsson, but 50nm less torque. That's a huge drop. It also uses a time delay to ensure the engine is warm, which probably means it doesn't monitor safety outputs like oil and water temp or knock sensors.
The reason I went carlsson is that it accesses EVERYTHING coming in and out of the ecu. It won't modify any signals until the oil temp is at 50deg Celsius and will shut down its map modification if anything that can harm the engine exceeds safe ranges. Very comprehensive unit
The only feature i like is you can tune it yourself. I've been having a nightmare with the cat-less down pipe, apparently the secondary o2 sensor on our cars is a wideband, its throwing ecu off in the reading the parameters. Car is running lean and its pinging under acceleration. I need to get this sorted out, I was looking into o2 simulator but Im not sure which one to go with? Any ideas or suggestions?
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