Aussie C200cgi Build
If you want any sort of decent, reliable gains that won't cause long term damage you are going to spend a few grand
If you want any sort of decent, reliable gains that won't cause long term damage you are going to spend a few grand

i guess that's the only route

btw...Great thread!!!
Tip for young players - 180 degrees, as mentioned on all the DIY threads, means FAHRENHEIT!
Being an Aussie, I didn't think twice. Dialed up to 180 degrees Celsius and melted the lens of my LH headlight in less than 4 minutes

So, if you use Celsius, it's 50-80 degrees for 10 minutes.
Anyway, second hand headlight is in the post so I can scavenge the lens off it. Free mod ended up costing me 200 bucks :S
Here are a few pics, sorry for the terrible quality. I will take some decent picks soon.
So I took the merc for a 400km drive to Newcastle over the weekend. It went fine until just past Sydney, then started to feel a bit sluggish.
By the time I got into Newcastle you could hear it leaking boost back through the diverter valve like no one business. Sounded cool but was pretty concerning. Anyway I was a million miles form home so I had no choice but to drive it without boost. What can go wrong?
Turns out limp mode is what. The poor thing sharted its lederhosen on Saturday night and I had to limp it 10km to the closest dealership.
I left it there and hitched my way home. Heart breaking.
Anyway, so the dealership calls me today. They have checked codes, found a bunch for low boost pressure (fyi I had already told them I was pretty sure the diverter valve had split due to the higher boost I was running).
Their official diagnosis? "its logging low boost codes but we found no leaks in the intake system, it must be particles that have gotten past your after market filter. We need to remove the entire intake and do a visual inspection"
@#$%!@#$% sake. seriously?
they reckon it has let particles through and they have...something? held a seance and invited the spirits of leaking boost into the engine? **** if I know
so that's where we are at. I'm in Canberra, the Merc is in Newcastle, dealerships are manned by semi-trained monkeys, I need a strong drink
Btw, sent you an email. Holla back when you're feeling better. Hope your car gets sorted out.
I am heading back up to the car tomorrow with a brand new diverter valve. fingers crossed that will solve the issue
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Sorry for the delay...Much has happened since last we spoke!
Firstly, I blacked out the tail lights. I masked off the white strip through the middle and hit the rest with about three coats of nightshade. When I took the tape off, I liked the black and white look but the contrast was a bit jarring so I did two very light coats over the white bit.Lastly I layered about 6 coats of clear on.
Once it was good and dry, after about a week, I took to it with 2000 grit sandpaper. I sanded down all the awful bumps and got it glassy smooth. After that I got out the rubbing compound and polish. It still isn't as shiny as I want but it is the best I can do with limited time and elbow grease.....must purchase an electric polisher....
lights out

masking up

Action shot! (multitasking like no ones business)

here are the lights straight after painting and clear coat. They look pretty dark but once they were sanded and polished they became much brighter (no picks of that yet)

Now, I mentioned earlier that a diverter valve was in the works and the boys from GFB here in Australia have delivered. I fitted the unit recently and it is awesome. Well built, looks great and has made a noticeable difference to the car.
Here is the kit:

On the C Class, the DV sits right below the exit point of the turbo. It is reasonably easy to get to and doesn't need the removal of any parts.

Once the connector is off, there are three 5mm allen key bolts holding it on. I didn't take any photos of the removal - it is pretty straight forward. This is the complete unit once removed

The factory unit is made up of a plunger and a solenoid to actuate it. The plunger just pulls off

leaving a solenoid and spring

remove the spring and then fit the new one supplied by GFB

The small metal lunger supplied in the kit just sits on top. I suggest coating it in a thin smear of engine oil as it has some o-rings that need to seal and won't go well if you pinch them on anything

then you just sit the DV+ housing on top. Press it down and it will click onto the solenoid.

The next step is optional. You can fit the big spring supplied ontop of the DV+ housing as shown or you can leave it out.
If you fit it, the unit will meter out the boost discharge, meaning a decrease in boost lag. If you don't, it will just work like the factory unit, only without the flimsy rubber diaphragm that always breaks

Whether or not you fit the second spring, you now fit the cylindrical metal plunger. This is a very close fit - perfect machining. Use some oil for lube or it will probably get damaged during installation

This is the unit, complete but balancing together

and this is it after I realised it all clicks together snuggly

installation is just as easy as removal. Three new, longer bolts come with the kit and it slips straight in with no hassle



After driving around with it for a week I am stoked. Due to the second spring, at low revs it makes an unusual 'whoosh' sound, not loud just different, but I really like it. After a gear change but, releasing the pedal and then giving it a boot shows that the unit makes for a much more responsive accelerator!
All in all, the unit is very very well made, the performance difference is noticeable and it is easy to tell that the unit is much stronger than the factory rubber diaphragm.
So there you have it, all up to date. When I get time to polish the tail lights properly I'll put up some photos.
In the meantime, I just scored a TIG for xmas so I will be trying to get in some practice time in the lead up to making a complete custom intake
I think they retail for 180 Australian dollars
Does yours sound any different to the stock valve? Can't hear any difference so far
There is a definite difference in sound, put only when you snap the throttle of at low revs. I really like it
Did you do a run with just the tuning box installed or did you install the IC and the box at the same time?
Not sure if it is worth getting the IC. CKS has a special right now and I am very tempted.
Cheers.
Did you do a run with just the tuning box installed or did you install the IC and the box at the same time?
Not sure if it is worth getting the IC. CKS has a special right now and I am very tempted.
Cheers.
I fitted the box without the IC to begin with. The box gives the car a decent bit of punch but once I fitted the IC the difference was amazing. I definitely recommend fitting an IC.


