C-Class (W204) 2008 - 2014: C180K, C200K, C230, C280, C300, C350, C200CDI, C220CDI, C320CDI

Upgrade radio with this kit?

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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 11:25 PM
  #26  
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08 C-Class (sold)
Originally Posted by Sincity
Were any of your heated seat buttons (rt2 & w204man) re-routed to the top of the old screen? I just don't like the way that looks.
I have not got around to finding some where to put them. I hardly ever use them so I may not even find a spot.
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Old Feb 26, 2015 | 03:40 AM
  #27  
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Excuse how dirty it is, it's been parked in the shop waiting for the carbon fiber to be installed.

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Old Feb 26, 2015 | 03:41 AM
  #28  
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Another pic

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Old Feb 26, 2015 | 03:46 AM
  #29  
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I just refinished my pocket, and this is prior to making the cutouts for the switches. You can see where I mounted an aux audio/USB jack. I will mount them to the left of it.

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Old Feb 27, 2015 | 09:24 AM
  #30  
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RT2-so you just took the switches out of the panel assembly and relocated them to the top and removed the old screen and made a pocket out of it and extended the AUX ins? Did you use 1/4" or 1/8" sheets to form the pocket?


Nice!

Last edited by Sincity; Feb 27, 2015 at 09:31 AM.
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Old Mar 1, 2015 | 10:03 AM
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Just got the Scosche wiring kit in. The yellow wire from the kit needs a constant 12V source to the fuse box and does not come from the stock wiring connector. Were you guys able to tap into a constant 12v source among the bundle of wires in the center dash area?
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Old Mar 1, 2015 | 11:37 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Sincity
RT2-so you just took the switches out of the panel assembly and relocated them to the top and removed the old screen and made a pocket out of it and extended the AUX ins? Did you use 1/4" or 1/8" sheets to form the pocket?


Nice!
1/4", you can get them off of eBay cheap.
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Old Mar 1, 2015 | 11:40 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Sincity
Just got the Scosche wiring kit in. The yellow wire from the kit needs a constant 12V source to the fuse box and does not come from the stock wiring connector. Were you guys able to tap into a constant 12v source among the bundle of wires in the center dash area?
I extended it, found a grommet through the firewall above the pedals and ran it out to the fuse box.
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Old Mar 2, 2015 | 07:09 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by rtr2
I extended it, found a grommet through the firewall above the pedals and ran it out to the fuse box.
Do you recall which fuse you tapped into?
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Old Mar 2, 2015 | 07:21 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Sincity
Do you recall which fuse you tapped into?
Use a test light and find an open fuse location that is a constant fuse location and not ignition powered only, and use it. Be sure to use the fused side of the location and not the powered only post so that if the fuse you place in it will protect your circuit and that will do it.
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Old Mar 2, 2015 | 02:17 PM
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Tks.
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Old Mar 7, 2015 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by rtr2
Purchase one of these w204 radio displays, remove the display (you can get them on eBay sometimes for $50), take a black ABS plastic sheet and glue two small panels into the pocket where the display was, take a dremmel and make a cutout for your buttons, extend the wires for the switches, run the wires up the back of the radio/vent cavity to the pocket area, install the switches into the back wall of the pocket, and you now have a functional pocket with your switches.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=331475153721
That's not going to work. I took apart the heater switch panel assembly and those buttons are mounted on a PC board that is as wide as the entire trim piece. One alternative is move the entire button assembly into the glove box by having the wires extended.

It must took a lot of effort for both of you to squeeze the new headunit in with all of that wiring. The stock unit is not as large as these double-DIN units and you really have to press down on the wiring before putting the stock radio back in.

I just may go the single-DIN route using a radio with a small 3" display. Also, remove the stock display and put a 5" display where the stock one was to have a simultaneous video output.
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Old Mar 7, 2015 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Sincity
That's not going to work. I took apart the heater switch panel assembly and those buttons are mounted on a PC board that is as wide as the entire trim piece. One alternative is move the entire button assembly into the glove box by having the wires extended.

It must took a lot of effort for both of you to squeeze the new headunit in with all of that wiring. The stock unit is not as large as these double-DIN units and you really have to press down on the wiring before putting the stock radio back in.

I just may go the single-DIN route using a radio with a small 3" display. Also, remove the stock display and put a 5" display where the stock one was to have a simultaneous video output.
Well if it doesn't work then I must have dreamed we did it. We soldered ribbon wire to the switch base and extended it, but the whole switch panel can be installed in the back of the pod if you do not want to do that, and yes the wires can be extended. Also no it did not take a lot of effort if you ran your RCA's correctly and placed everything as you are supposed to. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, then live with the old radio. I am happy with the mods I did, and enjoy my new toys.
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Old Mar 7, 2015 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by rtr2
Well if it doesn't work then I must have dreamed we did it. We soldered ribbon wire to the switch base and extended it, but the whole switch panel can be installed in the back of the pod if you do not want to do that, and yes the wires can be extended. Also no it did not take a lot of effort if you ran your RCA's correctly and placed everything as you are supposed to. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, then live with the old radio. I am happy with the mods I did, and enjoy my new toys.
Can't live with the old radio because after upgrading to the Infnity speakers, the 2 ohm rating is killing the RT channel. Must have bad components on that channel (I posted in the upgraded speaker thread). It started with the RR channel and now the RF channel is also affected.

I now understand what you did with the micro-switches.

I couldn't find the grommet you described above the pedals. I did find a grommet on the passenger side (I think it's where your battery goes on the non-C63) that goes straight into the passenger compartment behind the trim panel below the glove box. Also, I will be tapping into fuse #31 (horn) in the front fuse box for the constant 12v.

EDIT: Found more info on what double-DIN radios will fit the Metra kit from an eBay seller. Radio has to be less than 180mm x 100mm and radio opening on the kit is 173mm x 98mm. That really restricts what radios will fit.

Last edited by Sincity; Mar 8, 2015 at 11:39 PM.
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Sincity
Can't live with the old radio because after upgrading to the Infnity speakers, the 2 ohm rating is killing the RT channel. Must have bad components on that channel (I posted in the upgraded speaker thread). It started with the RR channel and now the RF channel is also affected.

I now understand what you did with the micro-switches.

I couldn't find the grommet you described above the pedals. I did find a grommet on the passenger side (I think it's where your battery goes on the non-C63) that goes straight into the passenger compartment behind the trim panel below the glove box. Also, I will be tapping into fuse #31 (horn) in the front fuse box for the constant 12v.

EDIT: Found more info on what double-DIN radios will fit the Metra kit from an eBay seller. Radio has to be less than 180mm x 100mm and radio opening on the kit is 173mm x 98mm. That really restricts what radios will fit.
You have to go into the install with an open mind, and take your time. When I said you need to run your wiring correctly, well you can see mine was ran through the factory wiring channels. There is a bunch of wires shown in the radio slot in the pic, but it was just a bunch of wires laying around when we did the first layer of dynamat. After the 2nd layer and wiring adjustments there was plenty of room. We took a week to run the wires, and put in three layers of dynamat.

Last edited by rtr2; Sep 9, 2015 at 12:06 AM.
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 08:30 PM
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Excuse the separate pic posts, I'm using a tablet on a business trip.

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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by rtr2
Excuse he separate pic posts, I'm using a tablet on a business trip.
Attached

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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rtr2
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by rtr2
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Attached

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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 06:08 PM
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That is hardcore. Tks for taking the time to post the pics. I ended up with a Pioneer AVH-X2700BS double-DIN. still need to figure out how I am going to approach the heated seat buttons. I really don't want to use the kit's relocation panel (the one that replaces the stock monitor lid for those that didn't know) or relocate the entire seat heater panel to the glove box. I need to see how much "***" the relocation panel looks like. I think my wife will want to keep the stock lid so she can store her sunglasses in there.

Last edited by Sincity; Mar 11, 2015 at 07:03 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2015 | 10:46 PM
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Got the radio in. Routed the USB cable to the center console box but still haven't messed with the heated seat controls. Now having issues with the reverse camera. I'm using the Scosche harness. When I start the car and go into reverse, it doesn't immediately go to the camera screen. It goes into the camera screen after I back out, drive a few feet, and when put it into R, then it switches. Not sure if it's the Scosche harness (with one with the steering wheel controls). I used all of the wires on the Scosche harness except the VSS (vehicle speed pulse signal) wire because I don't know where it goes and there isn't a corresponding wire on the Pioneer harness. Have you guys wired it differently?
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