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So to continue my procrastination regarding filing my taxes, I decided to work on dashcams this weekend instead. I've been wanting to do this for a while now but have been waiting for a capacitor based camera that checked all the boxes and now it's here! For anyone looking at cameras, I chose this because...
A) It HAD to be capacitor based, not battery. (More on this later if you want to discuss)
B) The mount is SOLID. Because it is a wedge shape, there is no stalk to worry about, and once set, the angle of the camera is not going to move.
Both cars took me a VERY long time to install since I was very picky regarding mounting location and finding the perfect circuit to tap into. From a physical standpoint, the Lexus install was cleaner of the 2 due to the dotted mesh hiding most of the camera body from the outside with NO visible wires (looks completely OEM), however the way the camera is triggered in the Mercedes might be better overall.
Both auto start and stops on their own. On the Lexus, the camera is tapped to an accessory circuit and is triggered when you push the ignition button (similar to how both the radar detectors are wired now). On the Mercedes, I couldn't find such a circuit in the overhead console, so it instead mimics the courtesy lights and starts recording as soon as you open the door. The BONUS feature is that it continues to record for a minute or 2 even after you exit the vehicle, due to the delayed cut off in power to the overhead unit.
I debated for a while whether or not to mount the camera on the center cover or on the bottom of it, but in the end I felt this offered the cleanest look since it evens out the radar detector on the other side. I'm just glad it's all done, since now there's no going back and my mind can finally rest.
okay i know this is off topic but i want to know how you installed your radar? did you hardwire it to the rear view mirror or the dome light unit. i know there is alot of thread on how to run a radar hardwire and such, but no one has post a how to/ which wire to tap and hardwire a radar to a power source in the dome light unit or rear view mirror. i dont want to run wires down the pillar to the fuse box.
okay i know this is off topic but i want to know how you installed your radar? did you hardwire it to the rear view mirror or the dome light unit. i know there is alot of thread on how to run a radar hardwire and such, but no one has post a how to/ which wire to tap and hardwire a radar to a power source in the dome light unit or rear view mirror. i dont want to run wires down the pillar to the fuse box.
Both radar detectors are wired via the A-pillar. With the Lexus, it was easy since that's where the internal fuse box is. However my model year C350 there WAS NO internal fuse box (it is located in the trunk) so I instead tapped into the headlight switch (since at the time I was afraid to mess with the overhead console). This time around I did not want to route there, so I instead took out a volt meter and tested each wire in the overhead console until I found one that wasn't on all the time (but still supplied 12 volts). Purely by accident, I found one that was independent of the ignition switch which mimics the courtesy lights, but still remains on when the ignition is also on (actually located on the windshield).
For radar detectors, I still think it is best to use a circuit that is directly tied to the ignition switch, since there is no benefit of the radar detector being on when the engine is off...unlike a camera.
Both radar detectors are wired via the A-pillar. With the Lexus, it was easy since that's where the internal fuse box is. However my model year C350 there WAS NO internal fuse box (it is located in the trunk) so I instead tapped into the headlight switch (since at the time I was afraid to mess with the overhead console). This time around I did not want to route there, so I instead took out a volt meter and tested each wire in the overhead console until I found one that wasn't on all the time (but still supplied 12 volts). Purely by accident, I found one that was independent of the ignition switch which mimics the courtesy lights, but still remains on when the ignition is also on (actually located on the windshield).
For radar detectors, I still think it is best to use a circuit that is directly tied to the ignition switch, since there is no benefit of the radar detector being on when the engine is off...unlike a camera.
yea i understand since there is no point of having it on while the car is parked. my other car i tapped into the rear view mirror with auto dim and compass. it was an easy hardwired since its involved only about 4 wires. when i try to find a source to hardwired it to my c300 there is a bunch of wires to mess with. i am still looking. i think the best way is to tap into which i have "auto dim rear view mirror and homelink/compass" which is a switched 12v power source. since it comes on only with the key
The easiest way for me to hardwire stuffs are by opening the dome light unit using a card then tap it into the wire that's used for powering the rear dome reading light. Find the red-black or red/blue cable, there should be only 2 of them. Tap to any of it and you're good. then fish the cable through the headliner, just hold it open a little bit while fishing the cable.
Pictures with instructions can be easily found on the C63 forum, hardwire radar
So this is the project you've been working on. Looks great. I've been wanting to install a dash and rear view cam for a while now but haven't gotten to it. So many to choose from online and need to figure out how to wire cleanly. Then other mods called out my name louder. Lol. Awesome job. What's next?
So this is the project you've been working on. Looks great. I've been wanting to install a dash and rear view cam for a while now but haven't gotten to it. So many to choose from online and need to figure out how to wire cleanly. Then other mods called out my name louder. Lol. Awesome job. What's next?
LOL....I'm honestly not sure. I know I'm supposed to say "I'm done", so we'll see how that pans out.
I'm still not 100% convinced if tapping to the courtesy light was the best idea. I'll run with it for a few weeks to test it out on real world use, vs the one in the Lexus. The biggest con with a delayed shutdown in the Merc is that you cannot just pull the card out when you turn off the ignition. You actually have to be patient or manually initiate a shutdown because unless the camera is finished writing, any interruptions will cause corrupted files, and loosing DC power is what triggers the closing of the file it is writing to. BTW...this is the biggest benefit of having a capacitor based camera instead of a battery based one, since batteries will die eventually, and in theory, if you do happen to get into an accident, the incident will generally always be the most recent file.
I may have been too tired, but I honestly couldn't find a wire that was tied directly to the ignition up there. Of the 3 12V lines I've found, 2 of them were constantly on.
okay i know this is off topic but i want to know how you installed your radar? did you hardwire it to the rear view mirror or the dome light unit. i know there is alot of thread on how to run a radar hardwire and such, but no one has post a how to/ which wire to tap and hardwire a radar to a power source in the dome light unit or rear view mirror. i dont want to run wires down the pillar to the fuse box.
I just installed my Beltronics Pro 500 radar detector in my C350 coupe last weekend. I taped the power from the sun visor mount (clip) that has the power connector for the light for the vanity mirrors. I used this excellent DIY write-up by IGB of how to disassemble the sun visor clip and access the power wires: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...isor-clip.html
After that, it was a fairly simple to make my own power cord and solder the 2 power wires to radar detector to the wires in the mirror clip where the red arrows are in the photos below (the left one is negative [-] and the right one is positive [+]).
I snaked the power wire under the headliner so it exits at the top of the windshield by the overhead console. It's a really clean set-up. I'll post some pics ASAP.
You need to be very careful with your soldering so as to not melt the plastic part holding the wires. Use a low wattage soldering iron in the 25 to 33 watt range. Also be sure your power wires are routed in such a way that they will not be damaged or interfere with the mirror clip parts when you reassemble it.
Last edited by Antique-Ace; 03-26-2015 at 11:41 AM.
Pay attention to his findings...
"Important Note: Depending on what it is you are connecting to these terminals, you should keep in mind that while power is not continuous to this connection, it does in fact stay on for several minutes of you turning the ignition off and removing the key."
Which is the EXACT thing I discovered when looking for in the over head console. Because my dashcam continues to record, I was able to get time stamps. After you turn off the ignition, close the door and lock the car, power will continue to be supplied for roughly 1 minute.
If you turn off the ignition, close the door BUT NOT lock the car (example: in your garage), the power will continue to be supplied for roughly 3 minutes.
Nicely done. Coincidentally, we have 2 things in common, OP -- 1) procrastinating on filing taxes and 2) I too hardwired and installed my dashcam this past weekend. Went with the Blackvue 650, though.
Since nobody else is asking, why capacitor based? I really need to do this.
In short, durability and reliability. Especially since dashcams are operating for so many hours in a week (assuming you use parking mode) and are exposed to the hot sun for long periods of time too, regular batteries just won't last very long.
Since nobody else is asking, why capacitor based? I really need to do this.
Hmmm...let me break it down...
The camera continually records in a given length you choose. Generally 1, 3, or 5 minute intervals.
During each file, the camera has to issue a write/close command or else the file it is working on will be corrupt, before it can continue to create the next file in the series.
The camera has 2 conditions of issuing this write command. 1: whenever the timer runs out (every 1, 3, or 5 minutes), and 2: whenever it detects loss of power.
Method #1 should be self-explanatory. Method #2 however can only be accomplished if the camera itself has reserve power (since you cut off the main supply).
STANDARD cameras generally use a battery. Obviously some batteries are better than others, but they all have 1 thing in common, and that is at some point in time they will all fail. Granted, some batteries may last for years, but still, eventually they will fail.
When the camera no longer has a reserve power built in, every time you cut power to the camera, the LAST file it recorded will ALWAYS be corrupt. The irony is GENERALLY the last file happens to be the most important one.
CAPACITOR based cameras trade 1 feature and sacrifices another. The feature it gives, is that the capacitor will often last much much longer (if not the life of the camera). It can withstand higher heat as well as operate at lower temperatures.
The cons to a capacitor based camera, is you can no longer use this as an "action cam". Because it is a capacitor, it only has enough reserves to last for seconds. Meaning it now lives permanently in the car, vs ones you can take out and use it as a cheap version of a GoPro.
HOWEVER those precious seconds is enough to supply the camera the power to properly issue write commands EVERY TIME you cut off the main power. A feature that I'll happily trade since I never plan to take the camera out of the car anyways.
Nicely done. Coincidentally, we have 2 things in common, OP -- 1) procrastinating on filing taxes and 2) I too hardwired and installed my dashcam this past weekend. Went with the Blackvue 650, though.
Ah yes, the cadillac/mercedes of the dashcams. Since I'm just getting my feet wet in regards to dashcams, I didn't want to go all out, however my main beef with higher end cams is that unless you own a fleet of commercial vehicles, I actually do not want the GPS feature. How fast I'm going is my business, and I wouldn't want that to go against me in the event it goes in front of a judge.
I am jealous of the WiFi connectivity though. In the future, it would be nice to have the ability to download the videos automatically once I enter the garage, similar to how certain police cruises do it.
Ah yes, the cadillac/mercedes of the dashcams. Since I'm just getting my feet wet in regards to dashcams, I didn't want to go all out, however my main beef with higher end cams is that unless you own a fleet of commercial vehicles, I actually do not want the GPS feature. How fast I'm going is my business, and I wouldn't want that to go against me in the event it goes in front of a judge.
I am jealous of the WiFi connectivity though. In the future, it would be nice to have the ability to download the videos automatically once I enter the garage, similar to how certain police cruises do it.
I hear you on the GPS feature working against you. I did think about that too when trying to decide on a camera, but at the end of the day I figured that my driving style has become relatively more conservative now (after getting one too many tickets) so it wouldn't be too much of an issue for me.
Before I placed an order for the Blackvue I was actually leaning towards the Mobius, due to its much lower price and small profile. But a phone conversation with Alex from Blackboxmycar (whom I eventually ordered from) convinced me that I would have much less headaches in the long run going with an established Korean dashcam brand (i.e. higher build quality, much more experience developing dashcam features) over cheaper Chinese options that focus on price as their competitive advantage. No regrets so far, just a few more weeks of eating ramen!
Got a DR400G that I bought a few years back after someone keyed my car. Specifically wanted something that worked in 'parking mode' - and with the PowerPro add on, it allows the camera to run while parked without running the battery below a voltage that you set.
That camera has defended me in 2 'not at fault' accidents in the past 12 months. One was where someone 'brake checked' me in a road rage incident, which without the camera footage would have been deemed my fault. So it paid for itself then and there.
Some people have complained about them overheating, but I live in Australia and this camera has suffered some of the hottest summers on record, whilst running in HD in a parked car.....no issues.
I have since installed a DR650HD 2CH in my X5. Front and rear cameras, wifi, GPS etc....
I don't have an issue with GPS tracking speed. It could just as easily defend you as implicate you, so if you're doing the right thing 95% of the time (ie not speeding) then I like those odds. The other thing too is the GPS speed reading would never stand up in a court of law. On the Blackvue it's a little laggy.....ie the car can come to a stop and it takes a few seconds for the speed reading to come back to 0.
Anyway, I love my dash cams and I reckon any dash cam is better than none at all!
Just a heads up though. With the 9500ix, the way you have it mounted, you are missing 99% of your laser alerts (but that doesn't matter since if you are hit you are done) but you are limiting your radar range big time.
THe 9500ix works in a 360degree matter. With it facing up like that at an angle, you limit the radar range from behind you by a big shot. THe front is iffy but its just not ideal.
FIX IT!!!!!
Just a heads up though. With the 9500ix, the way you have it mounted, you are missing 99% of your laser alerts (but that doesn't matter since if you are hit you are done) but you are limiting your radar range big time.
THe 9500ix works in a 360degree matter. With it facing up like that at an angle, you limit the radar range from behind you by a big shot. THe front is iffy but its just not ideal.
FIX IT!!!!!
I'd disagree. I have it level, not at an angle, and with radar, you want it as high as possible. I am fully aware of laser detection...a trade off I'm willing to make.
I'd disagree. I have it level, not at an angle, and with radar, you want it as high as possible. I am fully aware of laser detection...a trade off I'm willing to make.
Correct. Radar is effectively a "line of sight" signal (but not highly collimated like a laser). Higher is better for mounting your radar detector as it will give you (slightly) better detection of a radar source concealed just over the crest of a hill on the road.
Yea i do agree on the radar part completely. Mine is way up there as well. From the looks of it from that front shot, it looks like you are pointing at the sky almost. But hey man if you say its level then its all good.
Does the mirror/placement affect the gps capabilities?
I'm using this style of mount...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Permanent-Windshield-Mount-For-Beltronics-Escort-Passport-Radar-Detectors-/181171438994?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a2ea8c592
I've tried the suction cup method, visor clip method, and even the rear view mirror mount method. Of all of them, the 3M method has worked the best. It's both the most secure and provides the least footprint of all the mounts. As far as GPS...no it does not affect it. Don't worry, if you really do have a GPS unit, your unit will tell you if you are getting GPS signals or not. If not, then simply relocate it until you do. Both my cars have these mounts installed, and the location of the detector depends on where the power plug is for that particular detector.
Example: On the C350, I'm using a 9500ix, and it's installed on the right side of the mirror and the camera is installed on the left. However on the Lexus, I have a Beltronics 300 and that's installed on the left side whereas the camera is installed on the right. This is done primarily so you don't see any wires hanging around.
I just installed my Beltronics Pro 500 radar detector in my C350 coupe last weekend. I taped the power from the sun visor mount (clip) that has the power connector for the light for the vanity mirrors. I used this excellent DIY write-up by IGB of how to disassemble the sun visor clip and access the power wires: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...isor-clip.html
After that, it was a fairly simple to make my own power cord and solder the 2 power wires to radar detector to the wires in the mirror clip where the red arrows are in the photos below (the left one is negative [-] and the right one is positive [+]).
I snaked the power wire under the headliner so it exits at the top of the windshield by the overhead console. It's a really clean set-up. I'll post some pics ASAP.
You need to be very careful with your soldering so as to not melt the plastic part holding the wires. Use a low wattage soldering iron in the 25 to 33 watt range. Also be sure your power wires are routed in such a way that they will not be damaged or interfere with the mirror clip parts when you reassemble it.
UPDATE: The wiring method I described above is incorrect if you are going to tap power for your dash cam or radar detector from the mirror visor clip.
The negative (-) terminal on the mirror visor is not a proper chassis ground. I encountered problems powering my radar detector wiring it this way. One clue that I did not have proper ground was that I would lose power to the radar detector when I switched on the visor mirror light.
You can use the right terminal on the mirror visor clip to tap a positive (+) line for your dash cam or radar detector, but you will need to use the car body (chassis) for your negative (-) (ground) connection as shown in the photo below.
To get a good ground (-) connection, drill a 3/32" hole (for a #4 pan head sheet metal screw) where the yellow square is in the photo. Then use a small cylindrical grinding wheel on a Dremel to grind off the paint around the hole so you will have a good bare-metal electrical contact. I soldered my ground wire to a small solder tab and then attached it to the car body with a 1/4" long #4 pan head sheet metal screw in the 3/32" hole. This solved all the problems I previously experienced when my radar detector was wired to the two visor clips.
Last edited by Antique-Ace; 06-28-2015 at 10:36 AM.
03-22-2015, 01:21 AM
