URGENT! Possible preventative solution for the electronic steering lock problems!
 

Hello everyone! I, like many other modern Benz owners, have found myself having trouble with the electronic steering lock. So far the car has failed to start twice within 2 weeks. It starts up right away if I take the key out and try again, but from what I've been reading this is a ticking time bomb and I don't have a lot of time. The following may be a bit of a read, so I apologize in advance, but I really want to make sure before I start ripping stuff out of my car.

I've been looking up a lot of different websites and threads where people have this issue, and it seems almost everyone is having similar symptoms. Although dealers are quick to change both the ESL (steering lock) and EIS, it seems the problem is mostly with the ESL, specifically the failure of the cheap looking motor inside the ESL. From further reading I'm under the assumption that once the ESL fails completely and no longer attempts to move the motor, (no longer making clicking noise) NEC will lock and you can no longer do anything about it other than take it from behind without lube from the stealership, or resort to aid from Russian hackers.

However, if the problem is that the motor burns out, why is there an impending doom stage where the motor fails to unlock the steering the first time, but work in following attempts? A burnt out motor shouldn't come back to life. I think the problem isn't the motor, it must be friction of the mechanism that the motor is attempting to run. I think the motor is failing to unlock the steering wheel, because there's too much friction from the unlocking mechanism gears, thus telling the processor to stop trying. I think the reason why it works in following attempts is because the first attempt loosens up the gears, and it also explains why some users are having success hitting their dash or forcefully wiggling their steering wheel up and down and starting their car. I live in Manitoba, where the temperatures right now are wild and extremely cold, and the failure is happening right now where the temperatures are extremely low (-10 to -20), which meant more friction and harder time for the motor.

Check out this thread below where a member had success bringing their ESL back to life by changing the battery, which he himself concludes is because of the extra voltage power from a brand new battery helping the mechanism.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...thousands.html

I don't think he fixed the problem, but he temporarily overcame it by providing extra power to overcome the friction. He had the right idea by saying it must be wear and tear, but I don't think the mechanism itself is wearing out because people are reporting failures at vastly different mileages. I'm guessing that people from hot climates last much longer than people from cold climates like mine. Mine is a 2011 and showing symptoms already.

I also don't think its debris causing friction from the mechanism as ESL is sealed, but I think its more like whatever lubrication they used at the factory wears off and the gears stick together. So what I'm thinking is that before my motor dies completely and causes the NEC lock of doom, I can disconnect the battery, take everything apart, take the ESL out and then clean/lubricate the hell out of all the gears. The only thing that's stopping me from doing this is possibly messing up my car. Does this carry any risk if I don't physically damage anything? Is there a chance I can cause my car to lock up even if I disconnect the battery? Admittedly I'm not a good mechanic by any stretch, but I can't imagine it taking more than a few hours.

What do you guys think? Should I go for it? I recently got vandalised (some piece of work took a crowbar and went to town on my fender) and I have an appointment next week to access damage so I will wait for that before I attempt to do this as I don't want my car to die before then, but I just want to see if I'm being an idiot or this sounds plausible :nix:

I don't know anything about the issue but it sounds interesting.

Has anyone taken apart the ESL to verify what actually failed?

If it does use lubrication I would assume you would need to be very careful in what you use to relubricate.

If you go for it I would say the battery should be disconnected first. No telling what would happen if the car sees the module being removed.

Yeah I would absolutely disconnect the battery first.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w204...l#post12343481

Above is an interesting post from a guy who sells emulation systems to bypass the ESL/EIS, confirming the cheapness of the motor (haha) and he explains that the ESL will lock itself up if the motor fails to turn several times (NEC lock of doom).

Some couple of other posts from different users that are documenting that the whirling noise (steering lock unlocking noise) when you insert the key will change to a more laboured one before the system fails:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w204...l#post13397329

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w204...l#post13398929

And lastly an interesting post from an actual Mercedes tech saying he's had a bunch of steering locks fail, and its never been the EIS:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w204...l#post11420809

I'm more than convinced its some kind of build up or degeneration of the lubrication inside ESL that causes the motor to labor harder and harder as time goes by, eventually failing to start too many times and causing the system to lock down. I think it can be prevented by finding out what it is. If its the motor itself, I don't think there should be an issue replacing it, but I don't want to risk changing it and causing the system to lock up in case that might cause problem. As long as there's no issue taking the ESL out and at least looking at the problem, I think its at least worth a try, but I just want to find out from more knowledgeable members any possible risks attempting to take out the ESL if I disconnect the battery first.

Funny you posted this as I had just been worrying about the lock in the car. Not for any reason, I just heard it working and then thought to myself, that sounds like something to cause problems in the future.

I also wonder why the wheel lock is even necessary. Isn't the car almost impossible to start without the key? The only way someone is getting the car is with a tow truck of some sorts and the lock won't matter.

If I had the problem I'd go for an emulator.

Yeah I would definitely approach the emulator route, but unfortunately I think its fairly expensive for the newer models (w204 and up) and it has to be programmed by someone who has the kit and the software. There's advantages in not having to worry about it I suppose, but I'm hoping this'll be a simpler and hopefully permanent fix. I'll try the clean and lubricate first before approaching other methods. If it helps and I can go through the winter without any start-up failures, I'll order a new motor and replace the old one in spring. Who knows if the old motor is also a ticking time bomb. The old motor did last 5 years, so if by doing this I can have some peace of mind for a few years I wouldn't mind doing this every couple of years.

I bought everything I needed to try this, it seems all I need is a torx set, 3/8 wrench and extension, and some thin white lithium grease for plastic/metal and metal/metal purposes. I looked up a guide from someone who programmed and changed his ESL on his own, and it seems its doable without causing any hiccups. I'm just planning to clean the gears out, I can't see any problems occurring as long as I put everything back exactly as is. If it ends up working and preventing anymore start-up failures this might help a lot of people as I know its a very common problem in several models.

I began to notice mine sounding as if it was struggling a bit from time to time months before it went out. It worked well and then simply didn't. I gave it a few minutes then it worked just fine.
With that being said, considering the hit or miss nature when most of these failures present, I would think this is more of an electronic control issue than a motor failure.

File Complaint with NHTSA!!!!
 

Anyone having EIS/ESL issues (steering locks up/key fob in ignition says "Remove key" with no start) should be filing a complaint
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/
This is a safety recall issue. Mercedes should have to recall these faulty parts as it is all over the Internet. Call MBUSA file complaint and then file with National Highway & Transportation so we can get together and get a lawyer or recall!!!!!
I have 2009 C350 walked out and car was rendered useless EIS/ESL failure at 80000 all maintanence done by dealer.
Please anyone who has had this problem file!

File complaint NHTSA!!!!
 

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/

No matter you individual outcome Mercedes need to recall this!!!! Please file so recall will happen!

This issue (ESL, EIS) does not and would not qualify for a recall based on the simple fact that it isn't a safety issue. Go back to the NHTSA website and read about how/why/when and by whom recalls are initiated.

In other words, the NHTSA cannot force Mercedes Benz to issue a recall... Alternatively, a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) is a form of a voluntary recall but in this case and much to the disappointment of many of you, Mercedes Benz is not inder any obligation to cover a part that fails after the vehicle's warranty has expired!

I mean, how many here would expect to be reimbursed by Mercedes Benz for having to replace a thermostat, or a water pump, or an alternator, or a fuel pump, or an air pump, or a power steering pump, or a MAF Sensor.... and so on?

And what makes ESL or EIS Any different than any of the above?

To those who say its a "common" issue you can choose whatever terminology you prefer... but realistically speaking, referring to it as a "known" issue is much more appropriate.

Yes, I realize how many threads there are discussing this problem, but I also know that Mercedes Benz uses the same part (or at least the same series of parts) on 171 of its current and previous models. So you... the likelihood is we are goung to here about a certain percentage of related failures.

As for replacement costs reaching anywhere between $1000 -$1200.... The question that point raises is this: what is the threashold at which you'd expect a manufacturer to cover a part even AFTER the warranty ended?

The answer to that question is there is no such threshold. And Mercedes Benz has a legally binding agreement which you implicitly agreed to when you made your purchase or lease (or explicitly acknowledged when you were offered an extended warranty which you (presumably) refused, instead, deciding to stay with the limited warranty...

But please, don't believe any of this... At the end of the day, I am not the one who's disappointed...

ESL intermittent no start
 

I've had my 2008 W204 for exactly 3 years now and this has happened to me 5 times I'm a master mechanic and have known about this problem from the very 1st time it's happen yes I would be lying if I said it didn't make my heart beat fly off the charts,,,,, but every time it's happen I managed to get the ESL to release,and start up within 2 minutes or less,,,,,,having full access to a 8 bay automotive shop and AAA on hand I don't feel the need to panic.Yes I Do believe it may very well be a lower than adequate supply of voltage when it spikes intermittently, since the last no start I've wired direct a 2 volt battery maintainer and mounted permanently for those winter months and plug in at nite, if happens again I will post my findings,,,,

In response to IGB, you must really check your facts before going off the way you do you are not the authority to tell others that is does not qualify... it is not nice.

If I feel or others feel that the steering component could be a safety issue then we have the right as consumers to complain and report it.

Here is the information straight from the source for consumers to educate themselves.

What Is a safety-related defect?

The United States Code for Motor Vehicle Safety (Title 49, Chapter 301) defines motor vehicle safety as “the performance of a motor vehicle or motor vehicle equipment in a way that protects the public against unreasonable risk of accidents occurring because of the design, construction, or performance of a motor vehicle, and against unreasonable risk of death or injury in an accident, and includes nonoperational safety of a motor vehicle.” A defect includes “any defect in performance, construction, a component, or material of a motor vehicle or motor vehicle equipment.” Generally, a safety defect is defined as a problem that exists in a motor vehicle or item of motor vehicle equipment that:

poses a risk to motor vehicle safety, and
may exist in a group of vehicles of the same design or manufacture, or items of equipment of the same type and manufacture.
Examples of defects considered safety-related

Steering components that break suddenly causing partial or complete loss of vehicle control.
Problems with fuel system components, particularly in their susceptibility to crash damage, that result in leakage of fuel and possibly cause vehicle fires.
Accelerator controls that may break or stick.
Wheels that crack or break, resulting in loss of vehicle control.
Engine cooling fan blades that break unexpectedly causing injury to persons working on a vehicle.
Windshield wiper assemblies that fail to operate properly.
Seats and/or seat backs that fail unexpectedly during normal use.
Critical vehicle components that break, fall apart, or separate from the vehicle, causing potential loss of vehicle control or injury to persons inside or outside the vehicle.
Wiring system problems that result in a fire or loss of lighting.
Car ramps or jacks that may collapse and cause injury to someone working on a vehicle.
Air bags that deploy under conditions for which they are not intended to deploy.
Child safety seats that contain defective safety belts, buckles, or components that create a risk of injury, not only in a vehicle crash but also in non-operational safety of a motor vehicle.

Examples of defects NOT considered safety-related:
Air conditioners and radios that do not operate properly.
Ordinary wear of equipment that has to be inspected, maintained and replaced periodically. Such equipment includes shock absorbers, batteries, brake pads and shoes, and exhaust systems.
Nonstructural or body panel rust.
Quality of paint or cosmetic blemishes.
Excessive oil consumption.

How can I report a safety problem to NHTSA?

If you think your vehicle or equipment may have a safety defect, reporting it to NHTSA is an important first step to take to get the situation remedied and make our roads safer. If the agency receives similar reports from a number of people about the same product, this could indicate that a safety-related defect may exist that would warrant the opening of an investigation. In order to make it convenient for consumers to report any suspected safety defects to NHTSA, the agency offers three ways to file such complaints.

Vehicle Safety Hotline
NHTSA operates the U.S. Department of Transportation’s (DOT) Vehicle Safety Hotline telephone service to collect accurate and timely information from consumers on vehicle safety problems. You can call 1-888-327-4236 or 1-800-424-9393 toll free from anywhere in the United States, Puerto Rico, and the Virgin Islands to register complaints or receive recall information about a vehicle. The Hotline also has Spanish-speaking representatives and offers a dedicated number, 1-800-424-9153, for use by persons with hearing impairments.
When you call the Hotline to report a vehicle-related safety issue, you will be asked to provide certain critical information that agency technical staff needs to evaluate the problem. The information you provide is filed on a Vehicle Owner’s Questionnaire (VOQ), entered into the agency’s consumer-complaint database, and forwarded to NHTSA technical staff for evaluation.
VOQs filed through the Hotline will be mailed to you for verification of data. In addition, you will receive an explanation of how your report will be used, as well as a request for written authorization allowing NHTSA to provide your personal identifiers (e.g., name, address and telephone number) to the manufacturer of the alleged defective product you own. Note that you are not required to provide such authorization. However, sometimes sharing this information with the manufacturer can help facilitate the recall process.

Marlee, IGB didn't question that you COULDN'T file a notice, anyone can file whatever they want. He simply stated that this issue would not qualify for a safety recall. And based on what you posted I think you prove what he is saying. An issue with a component would not qualify as a safety issue if it just prevents the car from starting. It would be a different situation if it caused the car to stall while it was in motion. That is the key difference.

It does seem to be a known issue and I can appreciate how frustrating it must be to those it affects. And sure it would be nice if Mercedes would address it in some way, but up to this point they have not and after this length of time I doubt they will. Is is a good business practice? That is up to you and other owners and prospective owners to decide. If you feel that upset about it buy a different brand and never buy another Mercedes.

I would be willing to bet that pretty much every brand has something like this where there are known issues where components or systems seem to have problems. Sometime manufacturers do something, but most times not. Like IGB said their only responsibility is to comply with their stated warranty. Anything they would chose to do after that would be gravy. I notice you have a 2009 with 80,000 miles. That's somewhere between 6-7 years and a lot of miles. Hardly seems like something that is defective. Now if you want to debate if a system like that SHOULD last longer, I would tend to agree, but to say you should get it replaced for free, I wouldn't get your hopes up.

Im having the same problem but like a dummy got it towed to a stealership lol mine was no longer making a noise no matter what I did literally beat the hell out of the steering column and wiggled steering wheel no luck the mechanism no longer made a sound....by the way i have an 09 mercedes c350 i wish they would do a damn recall this is a common problem obviously and im about to get screwed with a big ass bill.

Thank you for posting this........I have the same problem with my car got it towed yesterday

Thank you very much for taking the time to further clarify what I stated. I appreciate it. I am not sure why or how anyone would misunderstand it, but there have been a few members who would rather discredit me than to begin to understand.

The cost to replace/repair these parts is (arguably) fairly high, and people get pretty emotional when it comes to them being forced to spend their hard earned money. So I can understand someone trying to make a point to further validate their being upset.

But to so so by convoluting facts, by misrepresenting the issue as something it is not, and by attempting to completely dismiss the one legal document that is binding on both, the manufacturer and the consumer, that being a warranty that is clear in its scope of coverage and the period during which it applies, is pretty irresponsible and since it might give others false hope and expectation of something they aren't likely at all to receive, it is even more "not nice" than what you attributed to what I am doing.

I have checked my facts, numerous times and am confident that what I posted is not only factual, but it can be further proven to be so by the same information you yourself posted. As was explained by Alfadude, I never suggested that no one should file with the NHTSA.

I would have said "I am sorry that my post did not fit within the realm of your expectations", but I really see no reason why I should be "sorry" for correcting a critical matter that you and others have continued to mis-state.

I never suggested I was the authority on anything related to this topic. I did however mention the applicable "authority", which by the way, happens to be the same authority you cited.

The difference though is that you're making statements that do not accurately represent or describe the maters at hand.

Specifically, to offer that because this is a steering related issue and since one of the examples offered in the NHTSA description of a safety related defect that would qualify for a safety recall is described as "Steering components that break suddenly causing partial or complete loss of vehicle control" that you "feel" this is a safety issue does not make it so. Instead, it is indicative of either you not knowing the nature of the issue here, or that you are otherwise trying to mislead and misrepresent.

There have been no reports by anyone anywhere of their steering lock malfunctioning while they are driving. This obviously leaves us in consideration of a part failure that by design, and since the starting cycle including the identifying the key, unlocking of the steering wheel... etc, can only occur while the vehicle is at a standstill, but more importantly, while the engine is not running, the risk of injury/any reduction in the level of safety for driver, passenger or even bystander, as a result of this part failing, is nill.

To further add to this, the requirement to replace the steering lock does not always happen because the "steering is locked", i.e. because the defect occurred due to the process of unlocking the steering column when the key is inserted is not working. The steering lock can be shown to be defective even if the steering column is not locked. Only that the module has failed to communicate with the key, with EIS or with other components that are part of the vehicle's starting system.

In simple terms, this problem can ONLY occur while the vehicle is stopped, with the engine not running and as part of the process to get the car started and moving.

If you can provide facts to the contrary, please let us know!

With "right" come "responsibilities"... But you should know that already. And in this case, and while you are within your rights to contact the NHTSA to file a complaint, to utilize that option to try and misrepresent the issue in your complaint on the basis that you "feel or others feel that the steering component could be a safety issue", will not only undermine the basic nature of the entire complaint system, but it will likely result in your entire complaint set aside and as a result, having zero impact on any consideration that either Mercedes Benz or the NHTSA will choose to have in this matter.

This is a legal matter.... And If at any point, it becomes an issue that needs to be resolved under the law (assuming you can somehow establish a hint of liability that Mercedes Benz owes those who have had this problem), only FACTS will matter. Not feelings!

And the facts here, are clearly demonstrative that there is no safety issue related to his parts failure.

But again, if you can provide facts to the contrary, please let us know!

Once again, thanks for further validating my point!

I say go for it. Post up the pics and the procedure for us. :y

On my VW the factory would often extend warranties and perform revisions on things that had high failure rates. I believe they did this to maintain customer satisfaction.

But I did have a door switch fail on my VW < 100 miles out of warranty. They wouldn't cover and wanted $500. I had even logged an intermittent failure under warranty. I fixed it myself for $35.

I had an old Saturn that had a cracked engine. That was happening at a high failure rate and they covered me thousands of miles out of warranty.

It would be nice to see MB doing this on some things but they probably assume their customer base thinks nothing of shelling out $2-$3K for simple repair jobs. But I knew that getting this car.

I have a 2010 C300 Sport. Today the car wouldn't start but I wasn't there to diagnose it as my wife was out with it. I ended up coming to her and It started fine when I got there. I'm worried that this may be a sign of this problem... So....

I have done a lot of searching and see that these little motors in the ESL are cheap to replace. I think I can take the ESL out of the car and take it apart no problem. There are a few videos on Youtube on this. Now the main question is if its possible to replace JUST the motor, put the ESL back in, and have it work as it did before. The key thing is the one in the car still works and can be removed quite easily (since its not locked).

I am assuming the unit knows which position the motor was in last etc so when putting it back in to make sure to not move any of the gears etc? This is whats worrying me. I dont want to cause the EIS to lock out the system.

This is a link to an ebay add with the motor:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/OEM-New-ESL-E...AAAOSwd0BV0Vog


Has anyone changed ONLY the motor? Were you successful? Did you need any programming? ETC?

Is this problem only related to C Class models or is the ESL/EIS used in other Mercedes Benz models? If so, are the same problems reported as well?

I was requested to comment. I don't want to get into the bickering here. The first thing to do as I have posted many times is identify whether the EIS or the ESL is at fault or the lazy dealer will replace both & burn your pocket. There is no doubt that this issue mainly applied to a bad batch of parts fitted to the W204.

As long as you know what you are doing access to the ESL is not that difficult & relubrication makes sense if the motor is OK but shutting down on peak draw. I would suggest relubrication of the mechanism driven by the motor with a light Polyurea Synthetic grease that will probably outlast the car. Apply very sparingly.

Access is very much as described in the W203 Wiki under "Steering."

Actually... I wouldn't be so "absolute" about it... For one, do you know whether the steering lock engages (lock the steering wheel) when the battery is disconnected?

If it does, the only way to remove the ESL module, would be to remove the steering column and then break the bolt/locking rod off of the ESL module which, once done, would then force you into having to do the one thing you are trying to avoid, to "replace the ESL module altogether".

Even if it doesn't automatically lock, and assuming your theory about friction, gears being jammed or whatever, what if while you are disassembling the steering column to get to the ESL module, it happens to ---click--- end up locking... (I mean I can see some sort of spring in this picture:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...ce11dbdd39.jpg

I know for certain that the battery is not disconnected prior to ESL removal because the first step in that process calls for inserting the key into the ignition and leaving it there during the entire process... The reason given went as follows:

"The ignition key must not be removed otherwise the electronic steering lock will lock and cannot be removed".

Which would then require that you break it off rendering your perfectly fine ESL, useless!

I am not trying to discourage you from trying this... I am simply offering you one example of how much is unknown about this issue and the process to properly rectify it, and while you may feel "absolutely certain" about one step (disconnecting the battery), that one step might be the catalyst to leave you facing the same consequence you were hoping to prevent!

Ultimately, the choice is yours. Good luck!

The steering lock breaking and now allowing you to start your car does not pose a threat to your safety or others. Your car cannot start, poses a threat as much as any parked car you see in a parking lot.

Now, if the lock breaks while you are driving or locks your wheel while you are driving, that is another story. But that is not the case here.

Doesn't matter how you feel, how anyone feels about it. It is not a case of feelings, but of facts.

It is very disappointing that such as simple mechanism will cost that much to fix, but it is the same reason why our cars are not easily stolen :y

Hey! Thank you for the replies, sorry I haven't been keen to update the progress. I did the lubrication, although I didn't exactly do it sparingly, I put a descent amount on all the moving parts. I used a thin white lithium grease as I heard it won't erode the plastic.

Ever since then no failures! We even had a week stretch where temperatures went all the way to -30 and I can clearly tell there's a difference. The whirling sound made when you first insert the key sounds noticeably different. Much quicker.


Hey! You were actually right about the lock not disengaging when you unplug the battery. This actually ended up being a pain in the ass as I had to do it twice over, but the trick is to insert the key first so the mechanism unlocks itself and then undo the battery while the key is inserted so that the mechanism is unlocked when you try and take it off. What really ended up being a huge pain in the ass is how easy it is to strip the pins (not sure what word to use) that hold the ESL box together. Once you strip it its one hell of a task to open that box, I really should have approached that part with more caution. I ended up having to drill a hole and pry the thing open. I put it back together and made sure there wasn't any holes with tape. Luckily I didn't strip all the pins so its holding together fine.

I might re-do this next year by putting in a new motor, since now I'm pretty familiar with the process it should take a lot less time.

I really encourage anyone having this issue to give it a go.

Fantastic info in this thread. I hope to never encounter this problem but I'll know what to do if it ever does happen. Like I mentioned earlier, Once I saw how this locking mechanism worked I was worried about it failing. Although I had no idea at the time how much of an issue it really was.

Still, given the key's technology, I don't see why the locking mechanism is even needed. It's like the 1980's when people where buying the club lock thing for their steering wheels.

Ok, great. Now where's the DIY write up? C'mon, you can't be the first person to do something that would save people thousands of dollars and not do a proper write up. :smash:

I'm watching this carefully. While I don't have an issue yet, I want to have a plan in place to deal with it should it occur. I have no intention of spending a thousand dollars on this.

If possible, could someone research the parts numbers for this job? I may just take a preemptive shot and replace it before it dumps me or my wife - especially if my grandson is in the backseat.

I ordered one of the eBay motors. It's coming from China. Something makes me loath to replace a critical part with a Chinese knock-off. It costs $25. I can't imagine MB putting a $25 part here. I'm going over to the salvage yard to see if I can buy the whole unit. I want to see what it looks like. If I get anywhere I'll post some pix. Hey, Glynn Ruck, can you find us any info on this little electric motor?

I suspect that the $25 price is a need-based price, and not much else... It is not likely to be related or based on what cost MB paid for it, or where they sourced it from. In fact here is another eBay seller, asking $44 for the same (or similar) motor http://www.ebay.com/itm/Best-Car-ESL...185457&vxp=mtr

Its sort of fear mongering in that the act of offering a replacement motor may tend to convince some that these motors are susceptible to failing... (and guess what? That, along with threads like this one (no pun or disrespect to anyone) have got you (as I am sure, others) believing that the motor needs to be replaced). All while there has been zero verified cases where it was determined that the motor failed.

As far as I can tell, the whole idea of these motors being the cause for ESL failure was started by someone offering his ESL repair service on another forum... http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w204...l#post12343481 Notice that he starts his post by describing the "main problem" as being:

"Main problem is that Mercedes put a $0.10 motor inside the steering lock, but it draws 3-5 amps, almost as the first generation W202/208/210 steering locks, but the size of the motor is 1/2 the size. You can see W204 ESL motor on the left and W210 motor on the right."

And yet here we are debating that this motor that is made in China that costs $0.10, that is 1/2 the size another motor, from another ESL that belongs to another model car, should be replaced with an identical motor that is the same size, has the same appearance, sourced from the same China only that it is marked up 24900%....

But that is not it... At the end of the day, that same individual is not selling motors... Nope. He is selling emulators that mimic the communication signals that ESL makes with EIS and other electronic equipment in the car to identify the key and allow the starting cycle to continue. Which really takes us back to the fact the the motor, could be one of many possible causes to ESL failure.

Yeah..Keep in mind that there is an equal chance that ESL will fail while it s in its locked position. The only way to remove it in such a case, is to break it off of the steering column.

In other cases, there may be a need to either re-code or reprogram replacement parts which can only be done by someone who has the proper equipment to do so...

Good luck to all....

I'm not afraid of it, and if it fails, so be it. But I do want to understand this thing and if it is an issue I can deal with by myself, then that's what I would like to do.

My purpose in ordering a motor and trying to find one of these in a salvage yard is to be able to take it apart and understand it. I've not heard of this thing requiring recoding when it's installed. If that's the case, then I'm likely just wasting my time. But I will have an understanding of it.

I don't care for the concept of an emulator. I intend to keep this car many more years (I've already had it for 8). I intend that it should continue to be supplied with OEM parts and service. But I also enjoy "wrenching" on it a bit, myself. It runs in the family - my great grandfather worked for Daimler.

I can tell you that I have looked at the detailed remove & install steps (but could not copy them) and there is no mention of any recoding/reprogramming with ESL. Only with EIS and even then, EIS failure appears to be rare.

However, if you look at the post I linked in my last post, the outfit selling the emulators claims there are cases when recoding is required. (And I guess it is understandable that he might tend to complicate matters a bit so as to give the impression that only someone with special equipment can repair ESL... Who knows).

If you do decide to research this more, you will come across a few posts by a few service techs who also mention "coding" after ESL install. Although I am yet to be able to get any of them to elaborate.

I think, that ESL re-coding/re-programming involves what is called a "blue key" (as opposed to an "orange key" for reprogramming EIS) but that is only required if one needs to reprogram an additional key.

I do on mine as well... Although there are certain jobs that are best left for the pros... I mean I can brush and maintain my teeth, I may even use whitening strips every once in a while. But when it comes to a filling, extraction... etc, you know where I'll be...

Please keep us updated with what you find.

Point taken. If I get anywhere I'll post. I just re-read my postings, I'm embarrassed. I am intrigued and I'm retired with too much time. I thought this might occupy my hands and mind.

Not sure why you would be :nix:

Let your curiosity be your guide. Your salvage yard idea was a great start... Only not to use any salvaged parts as replacements. Instead, use them as test subjects.

For example, I would love to put together all the pieces to be able to experiment with and bench test a set up similar to this: No, I would not be interested in repairing them or competing with the MB dealers... I simply do not have the time to do that. And while I realize it may sound like a stretch, and a costly endeavor, it certainly would be an interesting challenge!

That said, I admit that there may be times where I am too straight a shooter, and people might misinterpret my being so forward as an attempt to offend them. So I hope it wasn't something I said that made you feel the least bit embarrassed.

Found a solution
 

I happen to own 2 w204, one c200k and anothet c300 v6.

IT HAPPENS TO BOTH VEHICLE AS YOU REACH 7-9 years of usage.

on the c300 i went to the dealership and they landed me a hefty sum (USD 1800) which they went on to:
1. Replace ESL console box
2. Lubricate steering system
3. remove steering wheel rod as it is still in locked position
4. after removing the lock they tow the car to the dealership (my car went cold in a basement of a shopping mall which cant be towed due to tight spaces and require the steering to be unlocked first)
5. Reset the EIS NES.

After the repair it works perfectly. However my heart didn't healed by the fact that we have to pay 1800 just because a small 50 cent motor fails.

When it happened to my c200, i decided to call the dealership emergency hotline, ask the towing and onboard mechanic to remove the ESL. As it is in locked position they will have to cut 1 screw (using small metal hand saw) that locks the ESL to the steering column.

once it is removed, i opened it up.

THERE IS USUALLY ONLY 2 COMMON FLU for ESL issues.

1. Burnt out motor
2. Electronic board issue.

So what i did is remove the motor from the ESL, bought a Tamiya motor (Japanese model car toy) motor for 2.5 usd (VERY VERY HIGH QUALITY). Remove the spining rod that connects to the gears from old motor and place it on the new motor.

Afterwards using contact cleaner to clean the pcb board. continuing to replace the screw which was previously chopped off.

Then lubricating all gears in the ESL. afterwards i put everything back in place. Once in place, I ask the MB mechanics to reset the ESL EIS NEC which locks the mechanism aftet several failed attempts.

Everything works fine up till today.

1. Screw you MB for not providing just the motor or board which will be cheaper than replacing the whole chunk of die cast metal console.

2. Total repair cost is less than 120 USD inclusive of MB mechanics. i spent 2.5 $ on the motor, 3$ on contact cleaner, 1$ on gear lube, and 1.5$ on SS screw. THATS IT. MB was about to charge me 1800$ on something that solves the same problem.

Thank you for this thread. My car wouldn't start yesterday. Jump start won't work. No whirling sound when I turn the key to ON. Radio works. No headlights. Can roll down windows with remote.

Just bought the motor on amazon for $9.89. Hope that'll fix it.

Dead car
 

I went to get airbag replaced. I parked at dealership. They wanted stering wheel to turn all the way left as far as it could then park and turn off. My car never turned on again. 2011glk 60000 mileage. Never happened before. Now needs replacement of eslock. Im spending $1800 by tuesday. So sad....

This happened to me once. Jiggled the steering wheel back and forth while inserting and turning the key brought it back to life. But eventually it happened again and was dead for 3 days till a hammered the heck out of the ESL while inserting and turning the key. Eventually worked and replaced the esl motor myself.

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$-RECALL-$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
I think it should be a recall and my reasons are as follows:
1-Some parts are straight forward like a thermostat and if the owner want or can, he can replace it himself. The thermostat will give warnings
2-Normally you always gets a warning about something is going to go wrong, old or new cars.
In this case theres no warning, it just catch you out, Sudden Death.
The warning I have noticed was only after the replacement, and that was not naturally noticible beforehand.
There were also no warning light on dash coming on, in fact my car just came back from a service, they did not pick up on it either.
3-Mercedes can manufacture a very complicated gearbox as example that will out last this simple motor, that says a lot.
4-This motor itself is simple, but its part of a complicated engineered security section, which take it out of the hands of the most owners to
finish the job properly.
5-Its part of a vehicle security issue.
6-It severly destroys your trust in the vehicle for future use.
7-The W204 was tested for 25 million kilometers in notices before I bought the car 2007/8, there is no excuse for this.
8-The fact that its an inferior part as suggested and actually proved by the very part itself over time, undo it from warrentee restrictions.
9-The rules and laws are written by people with facts & suggestions to their disposal at those times, that does not mean unforeseen circuimstances may not surface in practise.You simply does not know about it till it shows up in ways and forms a pattern of sorts, not just one isolated case.
10-I live in a murderous country, and if I get a puncture next to the road, and it would not start suddenly, my life can be in danger. If there was warnings, and I ignored it, I agree the blame shifts to me as far as the safety goes.
11-I am old enough, and not ever in my life had a previous make of vehicle dropped me like this, my oldest vehicle currently made 300 000Km with keys worn out at the doors, thats why I replaced the lot, the ignition key was also sefverly worned but vstill worked, it was cheap compared to Mercedes.
12-A law or rule written, does not prevent it from being questioned and changed.
13-Due to this I bought another new vehicle away from Mercedes back to trusty expected Japanese make. I now use the merc within a 200km radious only.
The car give less problems for longer out of guarantee, so I keep it, I like the shape of it.

>>>A lot point to a recall, or re-imburse of the costs to owner. Mercedes can recover the costs from the subcontracted manufacturer and its quality controls.

Steering Lock Fix
 

2012 C 250
Mercedes EIS Mercedes ESL Replacement Fix

My ex had a Steering Lock failure that left the vehicle stranded in a parking lot of her job. Did some research and contacted the local dealer to figure out what it would cost to fix. Quoted approx. $1900....i did some more research and completed the motor fix and it didn't work because the lock mechanism and ignition needed to be re-programmed. Searched high and low in my area and couldn't find anyone local. Stumbled across Pressertech and talked to Scott and he gave me the low down on what needed to be done. I pulled all the parts and sent them to them and was sent back the same day that they received my parts. They sent me the emulator that eliminates the locking mechanism so that it will never happen again and key and ignition reprogrammed. Super easy and it cost me a fraction of the cost the dealer was going to charge.

GREAT experience dealing with Scott @ Pressertech and would recommend anyone that has this issue with the C-Class Steering Lock Issue reach out to these guys. They are Awesome....

Cost: $400.00
Better than the $1900 the stealer was going to charge

Same thing happened to me yesterday. I kept getting a message that the front right corner light was burned out and got tired of having to clear it so I turned the steering wheel all the way to the left so I could get access to the light inside the fender well. When I went back to start the car it was dead. No amount of wiggling or forcing the wheel could get any results. That's when i started researching. There are several videos on Youtube. I called the german auto service that I have used for years and they suggested to try topping off my battery with a charger to see if that works before opening everything up. I plan to do that tonight...

Great information. I just had this problem again today - I intend to call Pressertech. Thank you!

I got a motor from Amazon for $11 and fixed mine. It was actually quite easy. Saved a bunch of money too. I left the ESL outside the steering column when I repaired it so it cannot lock me out again. Everything works great now.

Solutions:
0: Trouble starting? Battery OK? Yes! Drive to a stealership or into your garage for DIY, stop engine running, but do NOT take out the key, cut battery and then take out the key. Pulling out the key will lock the steering column via a pin, see item 2 below.

1 Stealerships, $2,000 or more to replace the ELS and mate the new ELS with the ignition lock and key.

2 DIY: Is steering locked? Oh, no! Take out the whole steering column to take out the ESL by cutting the 10mm bolt via hacksaw to take out the ESL. You cannot take out the ESL when the steering locking pin is out and the mounting bolt (10mm) is in the way! Two hours job to cut the bolt, done it. Open the ESL up with a tool supplied by Aliexpress to get the four pins out and buy that US3 motor which burns out slowly. China is not delivering, so buy it locally. There is a way to take out the lot and do it. Kickplate and surround of the gauges is all you have to take off to loosen four bolts on the column. Electrics have to be taken off.

3 DIY: Steering not locked, great! Watch Youtube from MIKEYZ Part1 to take out the ESL without removing the column. Part2 and other Youtube videos help in fixing the ESL with that AUS$5 motor.

An emulator may also kid the computers that the motor is still ok, but it has to be mated with that NEC security chip on the ELS and the ignition lock and key.

There is a rumor around the traps, that if you tried to start too many times, the NEC security chip locks you out and you have to send the ELS, ignition lock and key to a locksmith to reset??

The Americans are already talking class action against Merc, as that US$3 Chinese motor is slowly grinding to a halt, perhaps due to lack of Lithium greasse; German quality? Aliexpress sells them in lots of tens, also the tool to take out the ignition lock. Some users know to hit low down at the ESL to have the motor run and let the car start one last time.

If the steering is not locked, then Part 1 from. Mikeyz on Youtube shows you how to take out the ESL without having to remove the column. Lack of lubrication seems to be the correct answer to make that $5 Chinese motor burn out in the end, but hitting it before seems to be the trick.

Some are lucky and catch the problem with the ESL in time, get a US$3.75 motor from China, change the motor and using MYKEYZs Youtube video WITHOUT taking the column and manage to start the car again. One trick is to leave the ESL hanging and not attaching it to column, that means the insurance may not pay after theft, but it will be easier to change the motor next time! My original motor lasted 13 years.

Unlucky ones like myself at least made it home (lucky), tried to start too many times and have a locked steering. Column has to be taken off and 10mm holding bolt of ESL has to be cut, two hours with hacksaw. After changing the motor find that the burnt out motor has messed up the NEC security chip due to a larger Amp draw and that means sending/delivering the ESL/EIS (ignition) and key to be fixed by replacing the NEC chip to expert locksmiths. Those experts will then claim they are putting in a genuine motor, not Chinese, and they are replacing the NEC chip with a genuine one, not Chinese. Cost: AUS$440, better than $2000 plus towing.

You are lucky having caught it in time.

What has failed are the two carbon brushes inside the motor, they just wear out and in my case after 13 years. Nothing to do with lack of lubrication. Hitting the ESL may just for one last time get the brushes to connect better, but then DO NOT PULL out the key, disconnect the battery first, then pull out the key as otherwise the steering will lock and you have to take the column out to cut off the 10mm (13mm hex) mounting bolt of the ESL.

For those who aren't entirely familiar with the significance of pulling the key out or not, if you don't pull the key out and steering is still unlocked, does this mean that your dealership will actually do the job of replacing the ESL at a much lower price??

You can still pull the key out AFTER having disconnected the battery. I doubt a stealership will have two different prices, they will charge as much as the market will bear! Towing may be easier and possibly cheaper?

IGB: The motors fail and I opened mine to see the worn carbon brushes as the cause. Mine was a genuine German one and failed after 13 years and 130,000km. It is possible to get a genuine motor from Europe for 40 Euros or a cheap Chinese copy from Aliexpress or Fleabay from US$3.75 upwards plus the cylindrical tool to take out ignition switch (EIS/EZS) plus the handle with the square end you hammer into the four pins of the ESL to remove the lid to change the motor.

So it sounds like unless you intend on spending a whole day fiddling with this and trying to replace it yourself, it doesn't really matter if the pin is locked or not?

As far as a preventive measure, isn't the preventive measure just to replace this motor preventively??? Everyone keeps saying it's 50 cents. You can either do it today when you haven't been left stranded somewhere, or wait until it fails and get stranded.

This whole episode made me despair why I had bought a second-hand Mercedes. I still believed in German quality and 500,000km cars and 1,000,000km trucks; not any more. What is worse, the local stealerships did not change the auto transmission oil and filter at the recommended 60,000km nor at 120,000 so I did it and the oil was black and stank NOR did they change the diesel filter at 60k/120k either. I cut it open and it showed dirt build-up. The only positive feedback was the Varta battery, which lasted 12 years!

I just bought this kit from Amazon to have in case I do end up with ESL problems. I watched Mikeyz' video on youtube and it doesn't seem that complicated as long as it doesn't end up in the locked position. Then again, removing the entire steering column doesn't seem much more difficult if it's in the locked position??

Correct Drivingforce. There is no need to remove gauges, steering wheel (red-face torque, two persons!), air bag, universal at spline, etc., you can pull out the whole lot provided another person removes the plastic cable holder and splits it to open the cable connector while you hold the entire column diagonally to get it through. Then do not make my mistake to cut the 10mm ESL holding bolt via hacksaw, a Dremel or other small cutting disk could have done it in 10 minutes rather than two hours in Australian heat. My mistake was starting it as long as possible believing the electronics are temperamental, while all the time the carbon brushes of the ESL motor were wearing away.

Just another tip: What you bought from Amazon I bought from Aliexpress much cheaper and it is the same stuff. Another mistake: Drilling out the four pins instead of using very small Torx or the conical square end with handle ex Amazon/Aliexpress as per your photo. Australian ECU Repair will soon return the key, iginition lock and ESL (changed box as my drilling caused damage) and I am still trying to get it confirmed what was done to the ESL, did they put in an original motor (?) as they claim they do and did they change the NEC chip with an original and not a Chinese one?

I ended up canceling the order since I realized that in the event that I do have an unexpected ESL failure, it's highly unlikely that I'd be able to attempt this job as I have no garage!!

I'm also wondering--if I wanted to go the emulator route to bypass the ESL altogether, is there any reason I need to wait until the ESL has failed? Does the ESL even need to be removed to do the bypass if it hasn't failed?

No, if the ESL has NOT failed you do not have to remove it if you decide to use the emulator. The steps are one, place key in ignition to release lock from steering column; two, reach under driver's side and unplug the cable from the ESL; three, plug disconnected cable into emulator and tie-wrap emulator to nearest convenient spot. Simple 5 minute task (you may have to remove the trim panel under the steering wheel, I can't remember exactly).

You still have to have the key and EIS programmed to the emulator in advance. So follow steps one and two, send the EIS and key to be reprogrammed by the emulator supplier, then follow step three.

Thanks--I may end up going this route just to avoid the hassle of having an ESL failure in the future. But it sounds like the vehicle will need to be out of commission for a little while because you need to send the EIS and key to the emulator supplier. Is there any reason you couldn't buy a new or salvaged EIS and send it along to the supplier with your spare key? Just so you don't end up getting stuck without the use of your car for a week or two?

Edit--I see you added the procedure for the emulator option. I just want to confirm that it's OK to have the battery plugged in during all this?

Edit2--can you remove the EIS without removing the steering wheel/airbag/clockspring?

Australian ECU Repairs claims people with emulators had to go back the ESL/EIS/key route due to reliability problems, but that might just be sales talk. Best to ask the emulator chap if a salvaged EIS is a solution as the security info is also stored in the EIS and your second key can then be matched, hope, hope. But then your first key will no longer work! Merc will not sell a new EIS to you, they claim it is something like a "theft prevention provision".

No, you need to take the earth lead off the battery, four screws to remove airbag, then use 10mm hex and red-face torque and two men to take the steering wheel off, then the EIS can be removed via two screwdrivers or the cylindrical tool from Aliexpress/Fleabay.

Replaced Jan 2013, Time Left?
 

After 3 months of ownership, mine failed. Luckily under warranty.

I did look up the part number and evidently it's been updated to 204-900-59-12-80.

I have attached the paperwork. It says additional "With Knee Bolster". :nix:

So the only way around this ticking time bomb is to buy the steering lock emulator.


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...218dc98f04.jpg

Hi DrivingForce. One Aussie emulator chap is claiming he is giving a life-time warranty, while a local locksmith is giving only one year to change the ELS motor and he is claiming he is installing a genuine German motor and an original ELS circuit board?? As Merc will not even sell you a new ELS claiming you are a thief (rubbish, you can identify yourself as the owner), I doubt a genuine German motor can be bought. This means I have much less than 13 years or 130,000km peace before the Chinese US$4 motor fails due to loss of carbon brushes, so emulator appears to be a better choice. Just don't tell your insurance that your steering no longer locks!

Edit 1: It has been suggested to first of all remove the earth lead on the battery, despite me doing that, now I get constant "ESP fail, RH airbag fail, tyre run flat fail" messages while I drive. Looks like I have to go to a stealershp with their Star diagnostic and hand over a lot of silver, so I cannot advise you.
Edit 2: The EIS or ignition lock can be removed only by making room for it from memory and that means taking lots away, but you do not need to remove the EIS anyway UNLESS you made a mistake during the motor change and re-installation (power to ELS last!) like I did and have to send the ELS, EIS and key to a locksmith (AUS$500).

Looks like this is a second-hand vehicle as modern Mercs no longer lock the steering? By the looks of it they replaced the EIS (Ignition lock) and the Electric Steering Lock (ESL). Normally only the ESL motor fails and the ignition is OK, strange. They say "Steering lock heard actuating", but that may have been in the death throws of it. Replacing the EIS is not common.

The ignition (EIS) is rarely the problem. You cannot buy a new ESL (Electric Steering lock) from Merc ("theft prevention"??), but you can buy a second-hand ESL, then send that plus ignition plus key to a qualified locksmith to have the three items matched security wise and perhaps the motor changed. Why the emulator chaps need the dead ESL (lock) I do not understand as the security codes are stored in the ignition lock (EIS) and key (perhaps?)

What if you found yourself running from an attacker you get in your.car go.to start the engine and .....because of the.known issue from so many valued customers your car fails to start.... that makes it.a.safty issue

Um no. It's a safety issue, when the vehicle being driven, has a defect that can possibly lead to fatality or injury. Meanwhile, I suggest you take up martial arts or a self defense class if you harbor such concerns...

Per NHTSA:

The United States Code for Motor Vehicle Safety (Title 49, Chapter 301) defines motor vehicle safety as “the performance of a motor vehicle or motor vehicle equipment in a way that protects the public against unreasonable risk of accidents occurring because of the design, construction, or performance of a motor vehicle, and against unreasonable risk of death or injury in an accident, and includes nonoperational safety of a motor vehicle.” A defect includes “any defect in performance, construction, a component, or material of a motor vehicle or motor vehicle equipment.” Generally, a safety defect is defined as a problem that exists in a motor vehicle or item of motor vehicle equipment that:

Esl failure
 

ur a freaking genius. Seriously. I've been locked out due to the esl issue for over a year and a half and I live in minnesota...issues arose during extremely cold weather conditions.. im going to buy a brand new battery and test ur theory. I've already got my esl out and it is or was a sealed motor however I drilled a hole in the casing with a tiny drill bit to try and turn the gear manually to get it out of the locked position. But km going to try the battery after cleaning it up and see what happennnsss.....

Hi JamesKim! I hope you have already got this sorted by reading the posts here.
If your problem is the ESL (Electronic Steering Lock) you will not hear the whirring noise as the small motor operates through a worm and wheel and a cam track to withdraw the locking bolt. If the bolt is not withdrawn the ELS will not signal to the EIS (Electronic Ignition Switch) that the steering is unlocked and the EIS will not enable the Key to start the engine.
Search these threads to study the many posts with photos to understand.
From reports and my own experience the problem is almost always the ESL and it is the small motor which has worn out its brushes.
It will not be lack of lube. However if you have to drill the ESL body to remove a locked unit then you will have to clean thoroughly and relube. I used Lithium grease. Excellent low temp. grease.
Bumping and tapping the steering column appears to free the stuck brush and allow one more try to start the car. Repeated attempts over half an hour also may work - it did for me.

It is very important that if you are experiencing this problem, once the ESL is unlocked DO NOT REMOVE THE KEY - so the ESL stays unlocked. Repair is then very simple since you don't need to remove steering column and drill the ESL body. For security you can disconnect the battery, and then remove the key. But replace the key before reconnecting battery.

First time with this problem I made the mistake of buying a new battery, it made no difference, and would only do so if the old battery was very weak. Have it checked, as I am sure you do before winter.
If you go the emulator way there is no need to remove the old unlocked ESL, an auto electrician who is properly set up can program an emulator to your car and move the wiring from the US ESL to the Emulator and attach it to a location with cable ties in an hour or two. Cost me AUD 400.

If you can get a replacement motor (it will be a cheap China motor, mine lasted 18 months when I first did this job) follow instructions on these threads to dismantle and repair the ESL. Quite easy if it is in the unlocked condition. But you do not have to reinstall the ESL - attach it to a convenient location somewhere where you can easily remove it next time. And buy a few spare motors. Consider the security aspects of this option.

I have not removed the ESL in situ (ie when unlocked) - to do so you need a good thumbwheel socket driver, so I'm told. Space is tight.

Good Luck.

It is correct to say it is the worn brushes of that US$4 motor which is the culprit and mine lasted only 13 years or 130,000km. Drilling into the casing is not recommended due to any metal bits left there. Buy or grind an old screw driver into a square end which fits into the pins holding the casing lid on. The pins are not screwed in, they seem to be just pressed in and can be pulled out.
I managed to keep on starting until it would no longer start and locked the column. Had to pull out the whole steering column and this genius then reinstalled the column 180 degree off, so I have to do it again. Bought lots of ESL motors from China during Covid including the recommended "pin puller", but did not manage to repair the ESL and had to send it to Sydney to be repaired for AUS$400. Lucky for me it stopped at home but under a tree which liked to drop thick branches, so I built a roof over the Merc. The ESL is held on by a bolt, which has to be cut.

Lots of Americans get stuck somewhere due to ESL problems and are talking of class actions as the towing and repairs at stealerships cost about US$2,000. Later model Mercs no longer lock the steering. The LH front door no longer opens and the suspect there might also be the motor with its brushes and so far I have avoided that $600 repair and via the web I keep telling everybody to stay away from Mercs and Merc stealerships, which did not change the auto oil and fuel filter at the recommended 60,000km nor at 120,000km.