JamesKim

Hello everyone! I, like many other modern Benz owners, have found myself having trouble with the electronic steering lock. So far the car has failed to start twice within 2 weeks. It starts up right away if I take the key out and try again, but from what I've been reading this is a ticking time bomb and I don't have a lot of time. The following may be a bit of a read, so I apologize in advance, but I really want to make sure before I start ripping stuff out of my car.

I've been looking up a lot of different websites and threads where people have this issue, and it seems almost everyone is having similar symptoms. Although dealers are quick to change both the ESL (steering lock) and EIS, it seems the problem is mostly with the ESL, specifically the failure of the cheap looking motor inside the ESL. From further reading I'm under the assumption that once the ESL fails completely and no longer attempts to move the motor, (no longer making clicking noise) NEC will lock and you can no longer do anything about it other than take it from behind without lube from the stealership, or resort to aid from Russian hackers.

However, if the problem is that the motor burns out, why is there an impending doom stage where the motor fails to unlock the steering the first time, but work in following attempts? A burnt out motor shouldn't come back to life. I think the problem isn't the motor, it must be friction of the mechanism that the motor is attempting to run. I think the motor is failing to unlock the steering wheel, because there's too much friction from the unlocking mechanism gears, thus telling the processor to stop trying. I think the reason why it works in following attempts is because the first attempt loosens up the gears, and it also explains why some users are having success hitting their dash or forcefully wiggling their steering wheel up and down and starting their car. I live in Manitoba, where the temperatures right now are wild and extremely cold, and the failure is happening right now where the temperatures are extremely low (-10 to -20), which meant more friction and harder time for the motor.

Check out this thread below where a member had success bringing their ESL back to life by changing the battery, which he himself concludes is because of the extra voltage power from a brand new battery helping the mechanism.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...thousands.html

I don't think he fixed the problem, but he temporarily overcame it by providing extra power to overcome the friction. He had the right idea by saying it must be wear and tear, but I don't think the mechanism itself is wearing out because people are reporting failures at vastly different mileages. I'm guessing that people from hot climates last much longer than people from cold climates like mine. Mine is a 2011 and showing symptoms already.

I also don't think its debris causing friction from the mechanism as ESL is sealed, but I think its more like whatever lubrication they used at the factory wears off and the gears stick together. So what I'm thinking is that before my motor dies completely and causes the NEC lock of doom, I can disconnect the battery, take everything apart, take the ESL out and then clean/lubricate the hell out of all the gears. The only thing that's stopping me from doing this is possibly messing up my car. Does this carry any risk if I don't physically damage anything? Is there a chance I can cause my car to lock up even if I disconnect the battery? Admittedly I'm not a good mechanic by any stretch, but I can't imagine it taking more than a few hours.

What do you guys think? Should I go for it? I recently got vandalised (some piece of work took a crowbar and went to town on my fender) and I have an appointment next week to access damage so I will wait for that before I attempt to do this as I don't want my car to die before then, but I just want to see if I'm being an idiot or this sounds plausible

michail71

I don't know anything about the issue but it sounds interesting.

Has anyone taken apart the ESL to verify what actually failed?

If it does use lubrication I would assume you would need to be very careful in what you use to relubricate.

If you go for it I would say the battery should be disconnected first. No telling what would happen if the car sees the module being removed.

JamesKim

Yeah I would absolutely disconnect the battery first.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w204...l#post12343481

Above is an interesting post from a guy who sells emulation systems to bypass the ESL/EIS, confirming the cheapness of the motor (haha) and he explains that the ESL will lock itself up if the motor fails to turn several times (NEC lock of doom).

Some couple of other posts from different users that are documenting that the whirling noise (steering lock unlocking noise) when you insert the key will change to a more laboured one before the system fails:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w204...l#post13397329

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w204...l#post13398929

And lastly an interesting post from an actual Mercedes tech saying he's had a bunch of steering locks fail, and its never been the EIS:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w204...l#post11420809

I'm more than convinced its some kind of build up or degeneration of the lubrication inside ESL that causes the motor to labor harder and harder as time goes by, eventually failing to start too many times and causing the system to lock down. I think it can be prevented by finding out what it is. If its the motor itself, I don't think there should be an issue replacing it, but I don't want to risk changing it and causing the system to lock up in case that might cause problem. As long as there's no issue taking the ESL out and at least looking at the problem, I think its at least worth a try, but I just want to find out from more knowledgeable members any possible risks attempting to take out the ESL if I disconnect the battery first.

michail71

Funny you posted this as I had just been worrying about the lock in the car. Not for any reason, I just heard it working and then thought to myself, that sounds like something to cause problems in the future.

I also wonder why the wheel lock is even necessary. Isn't the car almost impossible to start without the key? The only way someone is getting the car is with a tow truck of some sorts and the lock won't matter.

If I had the problem I'd go for an emulator.

JamesKim

Yeah I would definitely approach the emulator route, but unfortunately I think its fairly expensive for the newer models (w204 and up) and it has to be programmed by someone who has the kit and the software. There's advantages in not having to worry about it I suppose, but I'm hoping this'll be a simpler and hopefully permanent fix. I'll try the clean and lubricate first before approaching other methods. If it helps and I can go through the winter without any start-up failures, I'll order a new motor and replace the old one in spring. Who knows if the old motor is also a ticking time bomb. The old motor did last 5 years, so if by doing this I can have some peace of mind for a few years I wouldn't mind doing this every couple of years.

I bought everything I needed to try this, it seems all I need is a torx set, 3/8 wrench and extension, and some thin white lithium grease for plastic/metal and metal/metal purposes. I looked up a guide from someone who programmed and changed his ESL on his own, and it seems its doable without causing any hiccups. I'm just planning to clean the gears out, I can't see any problems occurring as long as I put everything back exactly as is. If it ends up working and preventing anymore start-up failures this might help a lot of people as I know its a very common problem in several models.

C300Sport

I began to notice mine sounding as if it was struggling a bit from time to time months before it went out. It worked well and then simply didn't. I gave it a few minutes then it worked just fine.
With that being said, considering the hit or miss nature when most of these failures present, I would think this is more of an electronic control issue than a motor failure.

Marlee

Anyone having EIS/ESL issues (steering locks up/key fob in ignition says "Remove key" with no start) should be filing a complaint
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/
This is a safety recall issue. Mercedes should have to recall these faulty parts as it is all over the Internet. Call MBUSA file complaint and then file with National Highway & Transportation so we can get together and get a lawyer or recall!!!!!
I have 2009 C350 walked out and car was rendered useless EIS/ESL failure at 80000 all maintanence done by dealer.
Please anyone who has had this problem file!

Marlee

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/

No matter you individual outcome Mercedes need to recall this!!!! Please file so recall will happen!

IGB

This issue (ESL, EIS) does not and would not qualify for a recall based on the simple fact that it isn't a safety issue. Go back to the NHTSA website and read about how/why/when and by whom recalls are initiated.

In other words, the NHTSA cannot force Mercedes Benz to issue a recall... Alternatively, a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) is a form of a voluntary recall but in this case and much to the disappointment of many of you, Mercedes Benz is not inder any obligation to cover a part that fails after the vehicle's warranty has expired!

I mean, how many here would expect to be reimbursed by Mercedes Benz for having to replace a thermostat, or a water pump, or an alternator, or a fuel pump, or an air pump, or a power steering pump, or a MAF Sensor.... and so on?

And what makes ESL or EIS Any different than any of the above?

To those who say its a "common" issue you can choose whatever terminology you prefer... but realistically speaking, referring to it as a "known" issue is much more appropriate.

Yes, I realize how many threads there are discussing this problem, but I also know that Mercedes Benz uses the same part (or at least the same series of parts) on 171 of its current and previous models. So you... the likelihood is we are goung to here about a certain percentage of related failures.

As for replacement costs reaching anywhere between $1000 -$1200.... The question that point raises is this: what is the threashold at which you'd expect a manufacturer to cover a part even AFTER the warranty ended?

The answer to that question is there is no such threshold. And Mercedes Benz has a legally binding agreement which you implicitly agreed to when you made your purchase or lease (or explicitly acknowledged when you were offered an extended warranty which you (presumably) refused, instead, deciding to stay with the limited warranty...

But please, don't believe any of this... At the end of the day, I am not the one who's disappointed...

sdenney89

I've had my 2008 W204 for exactly 3 years now and this has happened to me 5 times I'm a master mechanic and have known about this problem from the very 1st time it's happen yes I would be lying if I said it didn't make my heart beat fly off the charts,,,,, but every time it's happen I managed to get the ESL to release,and start up within 2 minutes or less,,,,,,having full access to a 8 bay automotive shop and AAA on hand I don't feel the need to panic.Yes I Do believe it may very well be a lower than adequate supply of voltage when it spikes intermittently, since the last no start I've wired direct a 2 volt battery maintainer and mounted permanently for those winter months and plug in at nite, if happens again I will post my findings,,,,

Marlee

In response to IGB, you must really check your facts before going off the way you do you are not the authority to tell others that is does not qualify... it is not nice.

If I feel or others feel that the steering component could be a safety issue then we have the right as consumers to complain and report it.

Here is the information straight from the source for consumers to educate themselves.

What Is a safety-related defect?

The United States Code for Motor Vehicle Safety (Title 49, Chapter 301) defines motor vehicle safety as “the performance of a motor vehicle or motor vehicle equipment in a way that protects the public against unreasonable risk of accidents occurring because of the design, construction, or performance of a motor vehicle, and against unreasonable risk of death or injury in an accident, and includes nonoperational safety of a motor vehicle.” A defect includes “any defect in performance, construction, a component, or material of a motor vehicle or motor vehicle equipment.” Generally, a safety defect is defined as a problem that exists in a motor vehicle or item of motor vehicle equipment that:

poses a risk to motor vehicle safety, and
may exist in a group of vehicles of the same design or manufacture, or items of equipment of the same type and manufacture.
Examples of defects considered safety-related

Steering components that break suddenly causing partial or complete loss of vehicle control.
Problems with fuel system components, particularly in their susceptibility to crash damage, that result in leakage of fuel and possibly cause vehicle fires.
Accelerator controls that may break or stick.
Wheels that crack or break, resulting in loss of vehicle control.
Engine cooling fan blades that break unexpectedly causing injury to persons working on a vehicle.
Windshield wiper assemblies that fail to operate properly.
Seats and/or seat backs that fail unexpectedly during normal use.
Critical vehicle components that break, fall apart, or separate from the vehicle, causing potential loss of vehicle control or injury to persons inside or outside the vehicle.
Wiring system problems that result in a fire or loss of lighting.
Car ramps or jacks that may collapse and cause injury to someone working on a vehicle.
Air bags that deploy under conditions for which they are not intended to deploy.
Child safety seats that contain defective safety belts, buckles, or components that create a risk of injury, not only in a vehicle crash but also in non-operational safety of a motor vehicle.

Examples of defects NOT considered safety-related:
Air conditioners and radios that do not operate properly.
Ordinary wear of equipment that has to be inspected, maintained and replaced periodically. Such equipment includes shock absorbers, batteries, brake pads and shoes, and exhaust systems.
Nonstructural or body panel rust.
Quality of paint or cosmetic blemishes.
Excessive oil consumption.

How can I report a safety problem to NHTSA?

If you think your vehicle or equipment may have a safety defect, reporting it to NHTSA is an important first step to take to get the situation remedied and make our roads safer. If the agency receives similar reports from a number of people about the same product, this could indicate that a safety-related defect may exist that would warrant the opening of an investigation. In order to make it convenient for consumers to report any suspected safety defects to NHTSA, the agency offers three ways to file such complaints.

Vehicle Safety Hotline
NHTSA operates the U.S. Department of Transportation’s (DOT) Vehicle Safety Hotline telephone service to collect accurate and timely information from consumers on vehicle safety problems. You can call 1-888-327-4236 or 1-800-424-9393 toll free from anywhere in the United States, Puerto Rico, and the Virgin Islands to register complaints or receive recall information about a vehicle. The Hotline also has Spanish-speaking representatives and offers a dedicated number, 1-800-424-9153, for use by persons with hearing impairments.
When you call the Hotline to report a vehicle-related safety issue, you will be asked to provide certain critical information that agency technical staff needs to evaluate the problem. The information you provide is filed on a Vehicle Owner’s Questionnaire (VOQ), entered into the agency’s consumer-complaint database, and forwarded to NHTSA technical staff for evaluation.
VOQs filed through the Hotline will be mailed to you for verification of data. In addition, you will receive an explanation of how your report will be used, as well as a request for written authorization allowing NHTSA to provide your personal identifiers (e.g., name, address and telephone number) to the manufacturer of the alleged defective product you own. Note that you are not required to provide such authorization. However, sometimes sharing this information with the manufacturer can help facilitate the recall process.

Alfadude

Marlee, IGB didn't question that you COULDN'T file a notice, anyone can file whatever they want. He simply stated that this issue would not qualify for a safety recall. And based on what you posted I think you prove what he is saying. An issue with a component would not qualify as a safety issue if it just prevents the car from starting. It would be a different situation if it caused the car to stall while it was in motion. That is the key difference.

It does seem to be a known issue and I can appreciate how frustrating it must be to those it affects. And sure it would be nice if Mercedes would address it in some way, but up to this point they have not and after this length of time I doubt they will. Is is a good business practice? That is up to you and other owners and prospective owners to decide. If you feel that upset about it buy a different brand and never buy another Mercedes.

I would be willing to bet that pretty much every brand has something like this where there are known issues where components or systems seem to have problems. Sometime manufacturers do something, but most times not. Like IGB said their only responsibility is to comply with their stated warranty. Anything they would chose to do after that would be gravy. I notice you have a 2009 with 80,000 miles. That's somewhere between 6-7 years and a lot of miles. Hardly seems like something that is defective. Now if you want to debate if a system like that SHOULD last longer, I would tend to agree, but to say you should get it replaced for free, I wouldn't get your hopes up.

Blueline82

Im having the same problem but like a dummy got it towed to a stealership lol mine was no longer making a noise no matter what I did literally beat the hell out of the steering column and wiggled steering wheel no luck the mechanism no longer made a sound....by the way i have an 09 mercedes c350 i wish they would do a damn recall this is a common problem obviously and im about to get screwed with a big *** bill.

Blueline82

Thank you for posting this........I have the same problem with my car got it towed yesterday

IGB

Thank you very much for taking the time to further clarify what I stated. I appreciate it. I am not sure why or how anyone would misunderstand it, but there have been a few members who would rather discredit me than to begin to understand.

The cost to replace/repair these parts is (arguably) fairly high, and people get pretty emotional when it comes to them being forced to spend their hard earned money. So I can understand someone trying to make a point to further validate their being upset.

But to so so by convoluting facts, by misrepresenting the issue as something it is not, and by attempting to completely dismiss the one legal document that is binding on both, the manufacturer and the consumer, that being a warranty that is clear in its scope of coverage and the period during which it applies, is pretty irresponsible and since it might give others false hope and expectation of something they aren't likely at all to receive, it is even more "not nice" than what you attributed to what I am doing.

I have checked my facts, numerous times and am confident that what I posted is not only factual, but it can be further proven to be so by the same information you yourself posted. As was explained by Alfadude, I never suggested that no one should file with the NHTSA.

I would have said "I am sorry that my post did not fit within the realm of your expectations", but I really see no reason why I should be "sorry" for correcting a critical matter that you and others have continued to mis-state.

I never suggested I was the authority on anything related to this topic. I did however mention the applicable "authority", which by the way, happens to be the same authority you cited.

The difference though is that you're making statements that do not accurately represent or describe the maters at hand.

Specifically, to offer that because this is a steering related issue and since one of the examples offered in the NHTSA description of a safety related defect that would qualify for a safety recall is described as "Steering components that break suddenly causing partial or complete loss of vehicle control" that you "feel" this is a safety issue does not make it so. Instead, it is indicative of either you not knowing the nature of the issue here, or that you are otherwise trying to mislead and misrepresent.

There have been no reports by anyone anywhere of their steering lock malfunctioning while they are driving. This obviously leaves us in consideration of a part failure that by design, and since the starting cycle including the identifying the key, unlocking of the steering wheel... etc, can only occur while the vehicle is at a standstill, but more importantly, while the engine is not running, the risk of injury/any reduction in the level of safety for driver, passenger or even bystander, as a result of this part failing, is nill.

To further add to this, the requirement to replace the steering lock does not always happen because the "steering is locked", i.e. because the defect occurred due to the process of unlocking the steering column when the key is inserted is not working. The steering lock can be shown to be defective even if the steering column is not locked. Only that the module has failed to communicate with the key, with EIS or with other components that are part of the vehicle's starting system.

In simple terms, this problem can ONLY occur while the vehicle is stopped, with the engine not running and as part of the process to get the car started and moving.

If you can provide facts to the contrary, please let us know!

With "right" come "responsibilities"... But you should know that already. And in this case, and while you are within your rights to contact the NHTSA to file a complaint, to utilize that option to try and misrepresent the issue in your complaint on the basis that you "feel or others feel that the steering component could be a safety issue", will not only undermine the basic nature of the entire complaint system, but it will likely result in your entire complaint set aside and as a result, having zero impact on any consideration that either Mercedes Benz or the NHTSA will choose to have in this matter.

This is a legal matter.... And If at any point, it becomes an issue that needs to be resolved under the law (assuming you can somehow establish a hint of liability that Mercedes Benz owes those who have had this problem), only FACTS will matter. Not feelings!

And the facts here, are clearly demonstrative that there is no safety issue related to his parts failure.

But again, if you can provide facts to the contrary, please let us know!

Once again, thanks for further validating my point!

ghlkal

I say go for it. Post up the pics and the procedure for us.

michail71

On my VW the factory would often extend warranties and perform revisions on things that had high failure rates. I believe they did this to maintain customer satisfaction.

But I did have a door switch fail on my VW < 100 miles out of warranty. They wouldn't cover and wanted $500. I had even logged an intermittent failure under warranty. I fixed it myself for $35.

I had an old Saturn that had a cracked engine. That was happening at a high failure rate and they covered me thousands of miles out of warranty.

It would be nice to see MB doing this on some things but they probably assume their customer base thinks nothing of shelling out $2-$3K for simple repair jobs. But I knew that getting this car.

C300fan2

I have a 2010 C300 Sport. Today the car wouldn't start but I wasn't there to diagnose it as my wife was out with it. I ended up coming to her and It started fine when I got there. I'm worried that this may be a sign of this problem... So....

I have done a lot of searching and see that these little motors in the ESL are cheap to replace. I think I can take the ESL out of the car and take it apart no problem. There are a few videos on Youtube on this. Now the main question is if its possible to replace JUST the motor, put the ESL back in, and have it work as it did before. The key thing is the one in the car still works and can be removed quite easily (since its not locked).

I am assuming the unit knows which position the motor was in last etc so when putting it back in to make sure to not move any of the gears etc? This is whats worrying me. I dont want to cause the EIS to lock out the system.

This is a link to an ebay add with the motor:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/OEM-New-ESL-E...AAAOSwd0BV0Vog


Has anyone changed ONLY the motor? Were you successful? Did you need any programming? ETC?

GMTB

Is this problem only related to C Class models or is the ESL/EIS used in other Mercedes Benz models? If so, are the same problems reported as well?

Glyn M Ruck

I was requested to comment. I don't want to get into the bickering here. The first thing to do as I have posted many times is identify whether the EIS or the ESL is at fault or the lazy dealer will replace both & burn your pocket. There is no doubt that this issue mainly applied to a bad batch of parts fitted to the W204.

As long as you know what you are doing access to the ESL is not that difficult & relubrication makes sense if the motor is OK but shutting down on peak draw. I would suggest relubrication of the mechanism driven by the motor with a light Polyurea Synthetic grease that will probably outlast the car. Apply very sparingly.

Access is very much as described in the W203 Wiki under "Steering."

IGB

Actually... I wouldn't be so "absolute" about it... For one, do you know whether the steering lock engages (lock the steering wheel) when the battery is disconnected?

If it does, the only way to remove the ESL module, would be to remove the steering column and then break the bolt/locking rod off of the ESL module which, once done, would then force you into having to do the one thing you are trying to avoid, to "replace the ESL module altogether".

Even if it doesn't automatically lock, and assuming your theory about friction, gears being jammed or whatever, what if while you are disassembling the steering column to get to the ESL module, it happens to ---click--- end up locking... (I mean I can see some sort of spring in this picture:



I know for certain that the battery is not disconnected prior to ESL removal because the first step in that process calls for inserting the key into the ignition and leaving it there during the entire process... The reason given went as follows:

"The ignition key must not be removed otherwise the electronic steering lock will lock and cannot be removed".

Which would then require that you break it off rendering your perfectly fine ESL, useless!

I am not trying to discourage you from trying this... I am simply offering you one example of how much is unknown about this issue and the process to properly rectify it, and while you may feel "absolutely certain" about one step (disconnecting the battery), that one step might be the catalyst to leave you facing the same consequence you were hoping to prevent!

Ultimately, the choice is yours. Good luck!

95Sinned420

The steering lock breaking and now allowing you to start your car does not pose a threat to your safety or others. Your car cannot start, poses a threat as much as any parked car you see in a parking lot.

Now, if the lock breaks while you are driving or locks your wheel while you are driving, that is another story. But that is not the case here.

Doesn't matter how you feel, how anyone feels about it. It is not a case of feelings, but of facts.

It is very disappointing that such as simple mechanism will cost that much to fix, but it is the same reason why our cars are not easily stolen

JamesKim

Hey! Thank you for the replies, sorry I haven't been keen to update the progress. I did the lubrication, although I didn't exactly do it sparingly, I put a descent amount on all the moving parts. I used a thin white lithium grease as I heard it won't erode the plastic.

Ever since then no failures! We even had a week stretch where temperatures went all the way to -30 and I can clearly tell there's a difference. The whirling sound made when you first insert the key sounds noticeably different. Much quicker.


Hey! You were actually right about the lock not disengaging when you unplug the battery. This actually ended up being a pain in the *** as I had to do it twice over, but the trick is to insert the key first so the mechanism unlocks itself and then undo the battery while the key is inserted so that the mechanism is unlocked when you try and take it off. What really ended up being a huge pain in the *** is how easy it is to strip the pins (not sure what word to use) that hold the ESL box together. Once you strip it its one hell of a task to open that box, I really should have approached that part with more caution. I ended up having to drill a hole and pry the thing open. I put it back together and made sure there wasn't any holes with tape. Luckily I didn't strip all the pins so its holding together fine.

I might re-do this next year by putting in a new motor, since now I'm pretty familiar with the process it should take a lot less time.

I really encourage anyone having this issue to give it a go.

michail71

Fantastic info in this thread. I hope to never encounter this problem but I'll know what to do if it ever does happen. Like I mentioned earlier, Once I saw how this locking mechanism worked I was worried about it failing. Although I had no idea at the time how much of an issue it really was.

Still, given the key's technology, I don't see why the locking mechanism is even needed. It's like the 1980's when people where buying the club lock thing for their steering wheels.

vipsa

Ok, great. Now where's the DIY write up? C'mon, you can't be the first person to do something that would save people thousands of dollars and not do a proper write up.