Rear view camera affecting TPMS system
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
'05 MBZ C230K and '09 MBZ C350
Rear view camera affecting TPMS system
About 3 months ago, I installed rear-view camera by following the instructions somewhere in this forum. Works good, but...
1) After driving my car for a while, I noticed TPMS warning light appeared on my dashboard. I assumed that I have one of four bad TPMS and ignored it for a while. I checked my tires, they were pretty worn-out. I ordered four new TPMS and went to Costco and bought four new tires. The tire installer installed new TPMS sensors in all wheels. He told me that I need to drive at least 10 minutes for TPMS to "reset".
2) I drove 10+ minutes and TPMS won't reset. I was thinking maybe one of four new TPMS was bad/defect. I contacted the company about my situation. The guy was very helpful, said he will be in SoCal for a meeting, he would be willing to meet me with his programming gadget and reset my TPMS sensors.
3) I met that guy (he came to SoCal for a meeting, all the way from Milwaukee). He brought a gadget to check all of my four TPMS sensor. He found two of them weren't programmed properly, so he programmed them. I thanked him and went home. On my way home, I tried to reset TPMS. Didn't work. I was thinking...must be something wrong with TPMS receiver.
4) I got home and looked up in this forum. I found one post written by someone, saying he is having a problem with TPMS, possibly caused by his rear-view camera. The author didn't say anything more than that. I figured out that it must be RFI (radio frequency inference) because I was using skinny video cable with two RCAs connectors (yellow) at both ends.
5) I ordered a new shielded video cable (with two RCA connectors at both ends). It's made of coaxial, the best cable I can find on eBay. It's the same type you would use for your TV. I got it a few days after I ordered it. I replaced the cable from the skinny one to coaxial cable. It was tricky to install because of stiff, thick cable.
6) The video quality has improved because of shielded cable. I was impressed. I re-reset TPMS and it worked. Great. But...
7) After driving 5 miles, the TPMS light came back. I was like "what the..." I temporarily disconnected the red wire from Fuse #71 and re-set TPMS. I drove my car at least 30 miles and never had any issues with TPMS.
8) I re-connected the red wire to Fuse #71 and drove 5 miles, the TPMS light came back again. Hmm...
9) Again, I temporarily disconnected the red wire from Fuse #71. Again, I don't have any problem with TPMS. They are running perfectly.
10) I've tried to connect the red light to the reverse light wire, but I got the flickering screen. I disconnected it and did some research on MB World forum, some said don't connect to the reverse light because it might "fried" the SAM unit (expensive part). I don't want to mess with that reverse light.
Someone is using a relay, but it has to be connected to the reverse light, but the power comes from Fuse #71 (only to power the rear view camera). I still don't want to do that because I don't want to "fry" the SAM unit. I have been thinking of two possible solutions...
a) Install a switch in my dashboard, to power-up and power-down the rear-view camera. When I need to go in reverse, I turn on the camera and use it for only like 5-10 seconds, then turn it off. That shouldn't affect my TPMS.
b) I wonder if there is a "momentary switch" thingie. I am not an expert in electronics, but that might work. When I start up the engine, the "momentary switch" unit turns on the rear-view camera for only...say 30 seconds then shuts it down. I don't think I can find that thing somewhere.
Fuse #71 is not a good way to keep the rear-view camera on all the time, from the moment you start the engine, to the time you shut the engine off. It will affect your TPMS system. You only need the rear-view camera for only like 15 seconds. When you are not using it, you should turn it off.
I guess the only option for me to install a switch under my dashboard. I (manually) turn it on and use the rear-view camera for a few seconds then I turn it off while I drive in Drive.
Do you have better ideas? Again, I won't ever use the reverse-light wire (that one is right behind the tail light).
1) After driving my car for a while, I noticed TPMS warning light appeared on my dashboard. I assumed that I have one of four bad TPMS and ignored it for a while. I checked my tires, they were pretty worn-out. I ordered four new TPMS and went to Costco and bought four new tires. The tire installer installed new TPMS sensors in all wheels. He told me that I need to drive at least 10 minutes for TPMS to "reset".
2) I drove 10+ minutes and TPMS won't reset. I was thinking maybe one of four new TPMS was bad/defect. I contacted the company about my situation. The guy was very helpful, said he will be in SoCal for a meeting, he would be willing to meet me with his programming gadget and reset my TPMS sensors.
3) I met that guy (he came to SoCal for a meeting, all the way from Milwaukee). He brought a gadget to check all of my four TPMS sensor. He found two of them weren't programmed properly, so he programmed them. I thanked him and went home. On my way home, I tried to reset TPMS. Didn't work. I was thinking...must be something wrong with TPMS receiver.
4) I got home and looked up in this forum. I found one post written by someone, saying he is having a problem with TPMS, possibly caused by his rear-view camera. The author didn't say anything more than that. I figured out that it must be RFI (radio frequency inference) because I was using skinny video cable with two RCAs connectors (yellow) at both ends.
5) I ordered a new shielded video cable (with two RCA connectors at both ends). It's made of coaxial, the best cable I can find on eBay. It's the same type you would use for your TV. I got it a few days after I ordered it. I replaced the cable from the skinny one to coaxial cable. It was tricky to install because of stiff, thick cable.
6) The video quality has improved because of shielded cable. I was impressed. I re-reset TPMS and it worked. Great. But...
7) After driving 5 miles, the TPMS light came back. I was like "what the..." I temporarily disconnected the red wire from Fuse #71 and re-set TPMS. I drove my car at least 30 miles and never had any issues with TPMS.
8) I re-connected the red wire to Fuse #71 and drove 5 miles, the TPMS light came back again. Hmm...
9) Again, I temporarily disconnected the red wire from Fuse #71. Again, I don't have any problem with TPMS. They are running perfectly.
10) I've tried to connect the red light to the reverse light wire, but I got the flickering screen. I disconnected it and did some research on MB World forum, some said don't connect to the reverse light because it might "fried" the SAM unit (expensive part). I don't want to mess with that reverse light.
Someone is using a relay, but it has to be connected to the reverse light, but the power comes from Fuse #71 (only to power the rear view camera). I still don't want to do that because I don't want to "fry" the SAM unit. I have been thinking of two possible solutions...
a) Install a switch in my dashboard, to power-up and power-down the rear-view camera. When I need to go in reverse, I turn on the camera and use it for only like 5-10 seconds, then turn it off. That shouldn't affect my TPMS.
b) I wonder if there is a "momentary switch" thingie. I am not an expert in electronics, but that might work. When I start up the engine, the "momentary switch" unit turns on the rear-view camera for only...say 30 seconds then shuts it down. I don't think I can find that thing somewhere.
Fuse #71 is not a good way to keep the rear-view camera on all the time, from the moment you start the engine, to the time you shut the engine off. It will affect your TPMS system. You only need the rear-view camera for only like 15 seconds. When you are not using it, you should turn it off.
I guess the only option for me to install a switch under my dashboard. I (manually) turn it on and use the rear-view camera for a few seconds then I turn it off while I drive in Drive.
Do you have better ideas? Again, I won't ever use the reverse-light wire (that one is right behind the tail light).
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 477
Likes: 124
2016 S550
Have you tried tapping into a different fuse for power?
Fuse 71 is the cigarette lighter fuse, correct? I'm not sure why that would cause issues with the TPMS...weird. I do know I has issues getting proper power for my dashcam by using the cigarette fuss.
I resorted to the fuel pump fuse for a "power only when engine on" scenario. Perhaps you could try that?
Fuse 71 is the cigarette lighter fuse, correct? I'm not sure why that would cause issues with the TPMS...weird. I do know I has issues getting proper power for my dashcam by using the cigarette fuss.
I resorted to the fuel pump fuse for a "power only when engine on" scenario. Perhaps you could try that?
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: South East PA
2012 E350; 1986 560SL
Sorry, don't have an answer for you. Just a comment. I was using the #71 fuse, for rear-camera, but as we all know now, it is not correct. It is the cig-lighter fuse. My camera recently burnt out. I believe it's because by having the camera on all of the time the car is running.
I checked and can't find the reverse lights fuse. there isn't one. There isn't really a good solution for rear-cam power, so far.
I checked and can't find the reverse lights fuse. there isn't one. There isn't really a good solution for rear-cam power, so far.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 6
Likes: 4
C300 4MATIC
TPMS is Fuse 70 on circuit 30g. Since the cigarette lighter/interior power outlet is Fuse 71 on circuit 15r, the camera *shouldn't* (caveats to follow) be interfering with TPMS on the 30g circuit. Are using an add-a circuit type adapter to steal power from Fuse 71? Since TPMS is on the fuse directly next to what you're stealing from, that might be a clue. If the camera you're using is cheap quality, it could be producing noise back down to the add-a-circuit adapter, and if that add-a-circuit adapter is resting over Fuse 70 for TPMS, that noise could be bleeding over into that fuse/circuit. If it's really got a lot of noise, it could be bleeding over regardless of what method you've connected it to Fuse 71. Of course, if it's producing noise, anything else on circuit 15r (which luckily isn't many things) is also going to be soaking that up as well.
Factory uses Fuse 84 on circuit 30g for vehicles equipped with the OEM reverse camera option. If your vehicle has satellite radio or DAB, that fuse would be occupied already. Not really sure what factory does when both satellite radio or DAB and a reverse camera exist. If you're looking for another fuse spot to tap into, you could possibly use one of the unused fuse cavities, such as Fuse 83 on circuit 15r or Fuse 85 on circuit 30g. You'd want to test them first with a multimeter to verify power and verify they're switched properly before making anything permanent, but those should be the assignments for the W204 as of '09. Now, if your camera is noisy I'd stay away from tapping into 30g since a lot of the electronics in the car sit on that circuit. Actually, I'd stay away from using that camera altogether if that's the case.
Going with the OEM camera solves some of those potential issues. The OEM retrofit kit includes the camera, modulator (to isolate power input and video output) and two wiring harnesses. One harness adds a wire to SAM for power, has a ground wire, a wire to tap the reverse light wire (to sense reverse only, not for power) and a wire for video output to COMAND. The other harness goes from the modulator to the camera for camera power and to get the video signal back to the modulator.
It seems like a lot of people here have done the aftermarket reverse camera mod over the OEM retrofit. I know it's significantly cheaper to do the aftermarket mod when compared to doing the OEM kit (which is between $250-$310 USD), but in my opinion going the OEM route at least has me feeling safe with what I've connected to my car, and I don't need to worry about changing out the cheaper cams every time they burn up after being powered on too long or other odd side effects.
Factory uses Fuse 84 on circuit 30g for vehicles equipped with the OEM reverse camera option. If your vehicle has satellite radio or DAB, that fuse would be occupied already. Not really sure what factory does when both satellite radio or DAB and a reverse camera exist. If you're looking for another fuse spot to tap into, you could possibly use one of the unused fuse cavities, such as Fuse 83 on circuit 15r or Fuse 85 on circuit 30g. You'd want to test them first with a multimeter to verify power and verify they're switched properly before making anything permanent, but those should be the assignments for the W204 as of '09. Now, if your camera is noisy I'd stay away from tapping into 30g since a lot of the electronics in the car sit on that circuit. Actually, I'd stay away from using that camera altogether if that's the case.
Going with the OEM camera solves some of those potential issues. The OEM retrofit kit includes the camera, modulator (to isolate power input and video output) and two wiring harnesses. One harness adds a wire to SAM for power, has a ground wire, a wire to tap the reverse light wire (to sense reverse only, not for power) and a wire for video output to COMAND. The other harness goes from the modulator to the camera for camera power and to get the video signal back to the modulator.
It seems like a lot of people here have done the aftermarket reverse camera mod over the OEM retrofit. I know it's significantly cheaper to do the aftermarket mod when compared to doing the OEM kit (which is between $250-$310 USD), but in my opinion going the OEM route at least has me feeling safe with what I've connected to my car, and I don't need to worry about changing out the cheaper cams every time they burn up after being powered on too long or other odd side effects.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: South East PA
2012 E350; 1986 560SL
reject, thanks for the input.
If done correctly, I don't mind spending $250-$310 USD at this point. Where can I find the The OEM retrofit kit? Is this it on Ebay?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181657619118?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Its coming from China, doesn't sound like OEM? And where are the cameras? If you can provide me more info on the purchasing the OEM retrofit kit, that would be appreciated.
If done correctly, I don't mind spending $250-$310 USD at this point. Where can I find the The OEM retrofit kit? Is this it on Ebay?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181657619118?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Its coming from China, doesn't sound like OEM? And where are the cameras? If you can provide me more info on the purchasing the OEM retrofit kit, that would be appreciated.
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Newbie
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 6
Likes: 4
C300 4MATIC
reject, thanks for the input.
If done correctly, I don't mind spending $250-$310 USD at this point. Where can I find the The OEM retrofit kit? Is this it on Ebay?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181657619118...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Its coming from China, doesn't sound like OEM? And where are the cameras? If you can provide me more info on the purchasing the OEM retrofit kit, that would be appreciated.
If done correctly, I don't mind spending $250-$310 USD at this point. Where can I find the The OEM retrofit kit? Is this it on Ebay?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181657619118...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Its coming from China, doesn't sound like OEM? And where are the cameras? If you can provide me more info on the purchasing the OEM retrofit kit, that would be appreciated.
Sedan part number is A2049055303, and can be ordered by the dealer (at least mine could) or most of the usual online parts suspects.
More info can be found in this thread:
OEM rear view camera
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
'05 MBZ C230K and '09 MBZ C350
TPMS is Fuse 70 on circuit 30g. Since the cigarette lighter/interior power outlet is Fuse 71 on circuit 15r, the camera *shouldn't* (caveats to follow) be interfering with TPMS on the 30g circuit. Are using an add-a circuit type adapter to steal power from Fuse 71? Since TPMS is on the fuse directly next to what you're stealing from, that might be a clue. If the camera you're using is cheap quality, it could be producing noise back down to the add-a-circuit adapter, and if that add-a-circuit adapter is resting over Fuse 70 for TPMS, that noise could be bleeding over into that fuse/circuit. If it's really got a lot of noise, it could be bleeding over regardless of what method you've connected it to Fuse 71. Of course, if it's producing noise, anything else on circuit 15r (which luckily isn't many things) is also going to be soaking that up as well.
Factory uses Fuse 84 on circuit 30g for vehicles equipped with the OEM reverse camera option. If your vehicle has satellite radio or DAB, that fuse would be occupied already. Not really sure what factory does when both satellite radio or DAB and a reverse camera exist. If you're looking for another fuse spot to tap into, you could possibly use one of the unused fuse cavities, such as Fuse 83 on circuit 15r or Fuse 85 on circuit 30g. You'd want to test them first with a multimeter to verify power and verify they're switched properly before making anything permanent, but those should be the assignments for the W204 as of '09. Now, if your camera is noisy I'd stay away from tapping into 30g since a lot of the electronics in the car sit on that circuit. Actually, I'd stay away from using that camera altogether if that's the case.
Going with the OEM camera solves some of those potential issues. The OEM retrofit kit includes the camera, modulator (to isolate power input and video output) and two wiring harnesses. One harness adds a wire to SAM for power, has a ground wire, a wire to tap the reverse light wire (to sense reverse only, not for power) and a wire for video output to COMAND. The other harness goes from the modulator to the camera for camera power and to get the video signal back to the modulator.
It seems like a lot of people here have done the aftermarket reverse camera mod over the OEM retrofit. I know it's significantly cheaper to do the aftermarket mod when compared to doing the OEM kit (which is between $250-$310 USD), but in my opinion going the OEM route at least has me feeling safe with what I've connected to my car, and I don't need to worry about changing out the cheaper cams every time they burn up after being powered on too long or other odd side effects.
Factory uses Fuse 84 on circuit 30g for vehicles equipped with the OEM reverse camera option. If your vehicle has satellite radio or DAB, that fuse would be occupied already. Not really sure what factory does when both satellite radio or DAB and a reverse camera exist. If you're looking for another fuse spot to tap into, you could possibly use one of the unused fuse cavities, such as Fuse 83 on circuit 15r or Fuse 85 on circuit 30g. You'd want to test them first with a multimeter to verify power and verify they're switched properly before making anything permanent, but those should be the assignments for the W204 as of '09. Now, if your camera is noisy I'd stay away from tapping into 30g since a lot of the electronics in the car sit on that circuit. Actually, I'd stay away from using that camera altogether if that's the case.
Going with the OEM camera solves some of those potential issues. The OEM retrofit kit includes the camera, modulator (to isolate power input and video output) and two wiring harnesses. One harness adds a wire to SAM for power, has a ground wire, a wire to tap the reverse light wire (to sense reverse only, not for power) and a wire for video output to COMAND. The other harness goes from the modulator to the camera for camera power and to get the video signal back to the modulator.
It seems like a lot of people here have done the aftermarket reverse camera mod over the OEM retrofit. I know it's significantly cheaper to do the aftermarket mod when compared to doing the OEM kit (which is between $250-$310 USD), but in my opinion going the OEM route at least has me feeling safe with what I've connected to my car, and I don't need to worry about changing out the cheaper cams every time they burn up after being powered on too long or other odd side effects.
