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Totally get that a car would show codes - it's designed that way. That said, the SAP (love that acronym) should turn off after reaching a certain temperature and/or 90 seconds has elapsed. I don't know why your gas mileage would be worse or the car would run rich because the pump is turned off.
If one can live with codes, I'm fairly certain there is no harm to the vehicle if the SAP is disabled.
I'm pretty sure your right. I drove with the light on a few weeks felt no difference in the car. My gas milage is always poor since I put the xpipe on LOL..... it's winter I think I'm averaging 14.5L/100km hahaha
So I think I found the problem but it's $600 I was given the wrong part, the dealer is the only place to get the left and right valves. I'm debating on taking them off and cleaning them or buying new.
so I took off the valves and ran a little carb cleaner through them and WD40 they look like new now. I opted to make my own seals in stead of reuse the old ones. Yes I know seas are 3$ but I had the stuff to do it myself.
I should of snapped a picture. This job is a pain the the *** let me tell u took 4 hours with an oil change and cabin air filter change. I hope I saved myself 600$ so far on the first cold start I hear no noise.
Regardless I saved about $2500 doing this job myself LOL
So My OCD kicked in... I went back and went with my uncle to my neighbours shop, look how the ****ing German designed this crappy valve. it looks like a muffin paper is the seal.
i couldn't pull my phone out to take after pictures because My hands were filthy but the part looks like new. Look how much carbon build up inside, theres nothing we can do about it... we should all have some build up but this is quite a bit.
I ripped out the muffin paper seal and took a rubber seal glued it to the valve and cut it to size, everything works. I guess time will tell if it holds up.
This part at the deal is $400 a new rubber seal made by me was free thanks to my neighbour but really if I had to buy it $3.
In total I have saved $2500 on labour and parts doing this myself.
So I'm still researching my auxiliary air pump issue as I have a 2007 SL55 AMG it appears that my location of the pump, fuse and relay are different from most other cars.
If have not found the fuse or relay as yet the pump checked out OK (if I need to take it out I have to remove the front bumper cover.
So I'm still researching my auxiliary air pump issue as I have a 2007 SL55 AMG it appears that my location of the pump, fuse and relay are different from most other cars if have not found the fuse or relay as yet the pump checked out OK (if I need to take it out I have to remove the front bumper cover.
The question I have now after reading your post is it the gummed up valves and were are they on my AMG set up.
Thanks for posting the pictures
I'll take a look into this Monday for you I'm away from my laptop all Easter. I feel it was the valve that was the issue, as when it was supposed to be closed the hole in the paper seal allowed more carbon build up to enter the pump and cause the pump to make the jet noise. That sea basically let the carbon in 24/7 .You can take the pump apart and blow it out with air( I post a video on that from someone on YouTube)
I'm not sure where the valves are on the AMG but try to go on pelican parts and see what the valves look like for your year AMG that may halo out.
Search for your pump and it should show you related parts to the project.
Let me know if that helps if not I'll try to help out Monday.
Thank you for your quick reply I have located the valves they are right on top of the engine and easily accessible so to be clear did you solve the CE light coming on by cleaning out the valves correct?
As I had said in my other post I managed to test run the AApump while it was mounted in it's original location in front of the DS wheel under the front bumper cover by removing the connecting plug and applying 12 volts from an auxiliary source directly to the motor connecting pins
The 2 high amp fuses in my PS fuse box (one 50 Amp and one 40 Amp) are fine but I'm not sure yet if they are they the ones for the AAP I guess I can take an Ohm meter and do a continuity check when I pull the electrical connector from the AAP and measure between it and the fuse socket.
Perhaps I can than use the same method to see if any of the relays in the PS fuse box has continuity back to the one of these fuses.
Again to repeat myself if the fuse, relay and pump check out than can the cause be the valves that you posted about in this thread? When they are cleaned does the CE light go off.
Thanks for taking the time to reply and share your findings I appreciate it.
Best H
Last edited by Hendrik Koster; 03-31-2018 at 07:04 AM.
Thank you for your quick reply I have located the valves they are right on top of the engine and easily accessible so to be clear did you solve the CE light coming on by cleaning out the valves correct?
As I had said in my other post I managed to test run the AApump while it was mounted in it's original location in front of the DS wheel under the front bumper cover by removing the connecting plug and applying 12 volts from an auxiliary source directly to the motor connecting pins
The 2 high amp fuses in my PS fuse box (one 50 Amp and one 40 Amp) are fine but I'm not sure yet if they are they the ones for the AAP I guess I can take an Ohm meter and do a continuity check when I pull the electrical connector from the AAP and measure between it and the fuse socket.
Perhaps I can than use the same method to see if any of the relays in the PS fuse box has continuity back to the one of these fuses.
Again to repeat myself if the fuse, relay and pump check out than can the cause be the valves that you posted about in this thread? When they are cleaned does the CE light go off.
Thanks for taking the time to reply and share your findings I appreciate it.
Best H
If the fuse, relay and pump check out I would then check the secondary air injection switch and the vacuum lines they do get blocked and looked full of dirt. My switch looked brown inside possible condensation and carbon made its way in so I changed it because it was cheep.
I would go for the valves last as they cost the most. If everything checks out it's most likely the valves.
I say do them last because the fuse and relay are $25 or so and the switch over valve was $40 and the vacuum hoses were 20$. The system is all the parts we listed so the problem would then be fixed.
If you go the route I did make sure you have high heat glue and a few rubber seal making kits.
I had 2 codes when my pump failed, when I get on my computer I can locate them Monday. I need to locate my service bill since it was covered under warranty to see exactly what they changed on my car.
I have a few threads on my pump when it failed.if your in a rush search for them I'm sure I posed the codes.
I wish I could be more help but I'm away from my computer.
Can you post your codes if you haven't already and what is actually the issue with your pump? Is it making a very loud noise for 90 or so seconds when you turn on the car ?
Well after I wrote post #33 I went and searched my computer for fuse and relay charts that I had downloaded some time ago and after reviewing them I have come to the find that I may have created the problem as some time ago I had all the fuses out in the PS box in order to clean them and the 40amp fuse that according to the chart should be in location #32 was placed in location #31 by me which according to the chart is no-mans land! duh!!!
Anyway in about another hour I'll get to the car itself and will correct this and report back here!
So for those reading along at home it shows you that a simple oversight can easily make you believe some thing is wrong whereas there rely is not.
Hopefully this mistake may be a lesson for others in the future, check, check and check again.
Well after I wrote post #33 I went and searched my computer for fuse and relay charts that I had downloaded some time ago and after reviewing them I have come to the find that I may have created the problem as some time ago I had all the fuses out in the PS box in order to clean them and the 40amp fuse that according to the chart should be in location #32 was placed in location #31 by me which according to the chart is no-mans land! duh!!!
Anyway in about another hour I'll get to the car itself and will correct this and report back here!
So for those reading along at home it shows you that a simple oversight can easily make you believe some thing is wrong whereas there rely is not.
Hopefully this mistake may be a lesson for others in the future, check, check and check again.
Happy motoring
Hahaha hopefully that's it ! You saved yourself a few dollars it that case.
Well I have erased the error code and been out for a 50 + mile drive and no more CE light so I believe it was my mistake oh well thank for the inspiration to go after this after in the end I got it resolved.
So my wife's 2011 C300 secondary air pump code came on. I replaced the pump but the one I removed had quite a bit of water in it. Of all the posts I have read I see nothing about there being water. Also after about 10 minutes of driving the code came back on. I will replace the fuse and the relay which can be culprits and go from there. Is the relay a dealer only part and has anyone seen water in the secondary pump in the past
So my wife's 2011 C300 secondary air pump code came on. I replaced the pump but the one I removed had quite a bit of water in it. Of all the posts I have read I see nothing about there being water. Also after about 10 minutes of driving the code came back on. I will replace the fuse and the relay which can be culprits and go from there. Is the relay a dealer only part and has anyone seen water in the secondary pump in the past
Ya change the fuse and relay! I noticed condensation in mine ( like water drops). I think the relay is 25$ at the dealer and fuse much cheaper. You can get them online for less.
So my wife's 2011 C300 secondary air pump code came on. I replaced the pump but the one I removed had quite a bit of water in it. Of all the posts I have read I see nothing about there being water. Also after about 10 minutes of driving the code came back on. I will replace the fuse and the relay which can be culprits and go from there. Is the relay a dealer only part and has anyone seen water in the secondary pump in the past
I had replaced the secondary pump and also found that the relay was bad so I ordered a replacement, however as it took about 2 weeks before the new was delivered I removed the cover of the old relay and found that the inside solenoid contact point were worn I build up these point with some solder and everything is working fine now. The new relay has arrived in the mean time but I have held of putting it in as want to see how long as my re-solder work will hold up.
As it is easy to pop -off the cover from the relay I make another visual inspection of the inside contact points in 6-8 weeks to see. (it wont take 10 minutes to this)
Guys
Called Mercedes dealer and they told me they don't know which relay it is. They would be happy to have service look at it. Anyway here is my vin WDDGF8BB3BR154443
Can someone tell which exactly which relay it is and where is it located as the incompetence of Mercedes is baffling
2011 C300 4Matic V6
Thanks a bunch
Gents, i replaced my pump last year and fixed my code problem but it is back again. Quick question, where do you all buy these parts besides the dealer? like the seals for the valves, the switch, vaccum hoses, etc thank you!
Gents, i replaced my pump last year and fixed my code problem but it is back again. Quick question, where do you all buy these parts besides the dealer? like the seals for the valves, the switch, vaccum hoses, etc thank you!
Gents, i replaced my pump last year and fixed my code problem but it is back again. Quick question, where do you all buy these parts besides the dealer? like the seals for the valves, the switch, vaccum hoses, etc thank you!
As a follow up to my CheckEngine Light:
Usinc a Carsoft CR Plus, I get two codes: Malfunction of secondary air injection at left bank of cylinders (function chain) (PO410) and a similar one that says "at right bank of cylinders".
1) I checked the pump (one year old and still under warranty) direct from the battery and it ran and sounded good.
2) On a cold start in the morning, the pump rand for about 30-40 seconds and then shutdown. (This tells me that the pump itself and all the fuses and relays are functioning) Is this correct? The auto parts store has a pump ready for me, but I don't want to take it as it seems that it is not the pump.
3) So, I suspect that I have some kind of pluggage in the various components (vaccum hoses or valves, etc.) I ordered the gaskets and vaccum hoses and am waiting on them.
4) Any idea on what to check first? (change over valve or left and right valves?
So I think I found the problem but it's $600 I was given the wrong part, the dealer is the only place to get the left and right valves. I'm debating on taking them off and cleaning them or buying new.
did you check the left and right valves when you pulled the pump? I'm going to change my whole system because I'm on pump #2. if theres carbon build up in the 2 valves then that could cause an issue.
don't throw your old pump either you can open it up and clean out the carbon build up and it not make any noise.
Have a similar problem on 2012 C300 4 Matic ,only 70000 kms. Pulled the pump out and opened it up..............water corrosion on the discs inside,shaft seized up on motor. Used WD40 to clean up the discs,a few drops of engine oil on the shaft and half an hour later it started to turn freely.Reassembled pump and reinstalled it put in a new fuse....and so far so good....running quiet .moisture seems to get in at the top hose from the check valve to the motor.....could be melting snow that get up inside onto the engine .
03-11-2018, 10:20 AM
should turn off after reaching a certain temperature and/or 90 seconds has elapsed. I don't know why your gas mileage would be worse or the car would run rich because the pump is turned off.
Oh no... operator error perhaps?
SAP pump
