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Ashman: Not using the cheap Chinese ESL motors means you cannot buy German ESL motors as the alternative and you cannot even buy the complete German ESL unit unless you are a Merc stealership. So how you can fix the ESL without Chinese motors beats me. What can be installed are emulators, which do away with the ESL and this is the service I suspect you are offering.
If the steering is locked, then the whole column needs to be taken out and the holding bolt of the ESL then needs to be cut.
I took the esl out and had trouble taking the pin out next to where the wiring harness attaches
i finally got it out with a drill and locked it in and pulled out
to my shock
1. a part on the chip was broken off and a brown piece of plastic came off? does anyone know where the square brown plastic piece goes? I feel like crap about this.
2. I saw the picture from knowbenz and the circular piece looks like it was on the mother board or whatever it is called next to that pin. I may have drilled to deep. So everyone be careful. is my mother board useless now that circular piece is not on it? Knowbenz or anyone can recommend how to fix?
3. also something about brown micro switches having to be pushed down still can’t figure out what that is can someone diagram a picture or let me know
4. also what grease are you supposed to use
Also a local person who does emulators told me he recommends repairing with a used esl and he even advised not using emulators. He stated emulators can fry the Sam module .
Anyone or any contact information of someone in New York to fix this? I need this fixed urgently can I use the esl without the circular piece anyone know what it is for?
I took the esl out and had trouble taking the pin out next to where the wiring harness attaches
i finally got it out with a drill and locked it in and pulled out
to my shock
1. a part on the chip was broken off and a brown piece of plastic came off? does anyone know where the square brown plastic piece goes? I feel like crap about this.
2. I saw the picture from knowbenz and the circular piece looks like it was on the mother board or whatever it is called next to that pin. I may have drilled to deep. So everyone be careful. is my mother board useless now that circular piece is not on it? Knowbenz or anyone can recommend how to fix?
3. also something about brown micro switches having to be pushed down still can’t figure out what that is can someone diagram a picture or let me know
4. also what grease are you supposed to use
Also a local person who does emulators told me he recommends repairing with a used esl and he even advised not using emulators. He stated emulators can fry the Sam module .
Anyone or any contact information of someone in New York to fix this? I need this fixed urgently can I use the esl without the circular piece anyone know what it is for?
Please help
Never heard of an emulator frying a SAM but have had them wiping data out of EIS. You could use a used ESL, replace the motor and have it reprogramed. Or just buy a new one
I took the esl out and had trouble taking the pin out next to where the wiring harness attaches
i finally got it out with a drill and locked it in and pulled out
to my shock
1. a part on the chip was broken off and a brown piece of plastic came off? does anyone know where the square brown plastic piece goes? I feel like crap about this.
2. I saw the picture from knowbenz and the circular piece looks like it was on the mother board or whatever it is called next to that pin. I may have drilled to deep. So everyone be careful. is my mother board useless now that circular piece is not on it? Knowbenz or anyone can recommend how to fix?
3. also something about brown micro switches having to be pushed down still can’t figure out what that is can someone diagram a picture or let me know
4. also what grease are you supposed to use
Also a local person who does emulators told me he recommends repairing with a used esl and he even advised not using emulators. He stated emulators can fry the Sam module .
Anyone or any contact information of someone in New York to fix this? I need this fixed urgently can I use the esl without the circular piece anyone know what it is for?
Please help
having loose parts dandling around is not guarantee it's easily repairable if the trace was pulled away from the PCB.
Show us a pic of overall circuit and close up near the lock pin where you think this cap came from.
FYI: the black cap marking is for polarization... sometimes (+) ... sometimes (-)
As silly as this sounds could the ESL stuck in lock position and the 'Take the key out' message on my wife's C250 be caused by a blown fuse for the steering lock? I tried banging the steering column with a rubber mallet, moving the steering wheel in and out and turning it side lock to side lock all while putting the key in and pulling it out. I can't get the thing to unlock and no noise at all.
Hooked jump cables up to car to ensure maximum power for ESL unlock.
Wiggled steering wheel from lock to lock while putting key in and out.
Moved steering wheel closer and further away while putting key in and out.
Banged bottom of column with rubber mallet.
Nothing seemed to do much. Then I noticed I wasn't able to move the steering up and down using the knob. So I gave the steering wheel a bit of a push down while pushing the knob down and then it freed that up and now it moves up and down no problem. After this I put the key in I heard a click every second for 5 seconds but then nothing. I remove the key and this happened again. Then I banged the column, put the key in and... voila... I heard it unlock and I can turn the steering wheel. Tempting fate I tried it again and it locked and then unlocked again. At this point I left the key in and disconnected the battery and this is where I am now.
Now to order the motor...
Richard
Last edited by Richard Koop; 08-12-2022 at 03:21 PM.
Richard, the ESL acting up is caused by the internal failure of a tiny electric motor. Once the brushes are too short the steering can no longer unlock.
You made it to the stage where ESL is unlocked and disconnected the battery.... GREAT place to be👍
Next step is to drop the steering column and deal with your bad ESL device.
The cluster message about "Take key out..." is because you have the driver door opened -Or the F-SAM senses it as being open and the key is acknowledged as being inside.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 08-12-2022 at 03:28 PM.
Yep. Just figured that out and updated my post. Silly me. Thanks for confirming though.
Once again tempting fate I hooked the battery up and this time it unlocked and I was able to start the car.
Once again, unhooked battery and now going to order the motor. Anyone have links to the best quality motor on Amazon? I know there are the $20 ones but I'd spend $100 on the best quality motor.... instead of the $2100 the dealership wanted me to pay!
Richard
Last edited by Richard Koop; 08-12-2022 at 03:29 PM.
Richard, these toy motors are .50¢ a piece ....
hopefully you find a better deal than $100Ea.
eBay/AMZ may have them US shipped instead of a slow boat from China.
The price gouging by the local sharks is just the tip of the iceberg. There are tons of great shops waiting for your business to earn your trust honestly.
🤞
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 08-12-2022 at 03:47 PM.
Yep. Just figured that out and updated my post. Silly me. Thanks for confirming though.
Once again tempting fate I hooked the battery up and this time it unlocked and I was able to start the car.
Once again, unhooked battery and now going to order the motor. Anyone have links to the best quality motor on Amazon? I know there are the $20 ones but I'd spend $100 on the best quality motor.... instead of the $2100 the dealership wanted me to pay!
Richard
As others have mentioned, you might want to consider an emulator. I installed mine just over two years and 41K miles ago and never have to worry about listening for the whirr every time I turn the key.
As others have mentioned, you might want to consider an emulator. I installed mine just over two years and 41K miles ago and never have to worry about listening for the whirr every time I turn the key.
Yep. Probably not keeping this car for more than a few years. And from what I've read you have to send out the ESL, EIS (I think that's the term) and the keys to get it reprogrammed. And it would cost like $500 (CDN). So if the $20 motor keeps my wife's car running for a few more years then I'm good with that.
Richard, these toy motors are .50¢ a piece ....
hopefully you find a better deal than $100Ea.
eBay/AMZ may have them US shipped instead of a slow boat from China.
The price gouging by the local sharks is just the tip of the iceberg. There are tons of great shops waiting for your business to earn your trust honestly.
🤞
I got the $22 one. Only one I could get in Canada and receive within 7 days.
Richard, the ESL acting up is caused by the internal failure of a tiny electric motor. Once the brushes are too short the steering can no longer unlock.
You made it to the stage where ESL is unlocked and disconnected the battery.... GREAT place to be👍
Next step is to drop the steering column and deal with your bad ESL device.
The cluster message about "Take key out..." is because you have the driver door opened -Or the F-SAM senses it as being open and the key is acknowledged as being inside.
Funny thing... actually not funny... kind of made me angry... When I was driving home from the dealership once the tow truck driver had hooked up my wife's car to tow it to my home... I got a call from the dealership. The service guy said if I wasn't going to fix the car then the mechanic who looked at the car would want to buy the car from me. Can you say 'Conflict of interest'?! Slimy.
Richard
Last edited by Richard Koop; 08-13-2022 at 07:17 AM.
Richard, the ESL acting up is caused by the internal failure of a tiny electric motor. Once the brushes are too short the steering can no longer unlock.
You made it to the stage where ESL is unlocked and disconnected the battery.... GREAT place to be👍
Next step is to drop the steering column and deal with your bad ESL device.
The cluster message about "Take key out..." is because you have the driver door opened -Or the F-SAM senses it as being open and the key is acknowledged as being inside.
About to attempt to remove the ESL on my C250. It is necessary to remove the steering wheel and airbag or can I just remove those 4 Torx bolts and drop the column enough to wiggle out the ESL from the side. I know you have to do it blindly but seems like a lot less work.
About to attempt to remove the ESL on my C250. It is necessary to remove the steering wheel and airbag or can I just remove those 4 Torx bolts and drop the column enough to wiggle out the ESL from the side. I know you have to do it blindly but seems like a lot less work.
Richard
Richard:
that's a good point, shortcut will help save time.
Do NOT SKIP disconnection of battery power: (-) only enough
Don't bother with wheel and airbag removal.
🤞
'05 E500 Blk Opal/Stone, 321 AMG Package, Lighting Package, Harmon K., Parktronic, Keyless Go, Nav
Originally Posted by Richard Koop
About to attempt to remove the ESL on my C250. It is necessary to remove the steering wheel and airbag or can I just remove those 4 Torx bolts and drop the column enough to wiggle out the ESL from the side. I know you have to do it blindly but seems like a lot less work.
Richard
You definitely do not have to remove the steering wheel in your case. Your ESL is in the unlocked position so far as i've read in your previous replies. Remove the two bottom torx bolts on the steering column completely. Then remove the top two bolts about 75% of the way (its much easier to leave the top two bolts in to avoid struggling with aligning the steering column when you're ready to bolt it back up). You'll have more than enough room to pull down on the steering column. Disconnect the electrical connector, remove the 13mm nut on the ESL, depress the ESL bolt and pull it out of the column.
I would replace that factory ESL with an electronic emulator. I've programmed and sold over 450 electronic emulators for W204 chassis vehicles over the past 4 years and i've never had a single one returned. Sure you have to get the EIS and key to someone like me to program the emulator for you. But then, you'll have peace of mind knowing that you're not going to be stranded when the motor on the ESL goes out again.
You definitely do not have to remove the steering wheel in your case. Your ESL is in the unlocked position so far as i've read in your previous replies. Remove the two bottom torx bolts on the steering column completely. Then remove the top two bolts about 75% of the way (its much easier to leave the top two bolts in to avoid struggling with aligning the steering column when you're ready to bolt it back up). You'll have more than enough room to pull down on the steering column. Disconnect the electrical connector, remove the 13mm nut on the ESL, depress the ESL bolt and pull it out of the column.
I would replace that factory ESL with an electronic emulator. I've programmed and sold over 450 electronic emulators for W204 chassis vehicles over the past 4 years and i've never had a single one returned. Sure you have to get the EIS and key to someone like me to program the emulator for you. But then, you'll have peace of mind knowing that you're not going to be stranded when the motor on the ESL goes out again.
-Michael
562.233.0989
Whittier, CA, USA
You should become a SPONSOR to earn forum recognition.
Not everyone is fan of loosing security lock with a coded emulator. One can remove/shave the ESL pin for free and the actuator will have a nice long life
'05 E500 Blk Opal/Stone, 321 AMG Package, Lighting Package, Harmon K., Parktronic, Keyless Go, Nav
Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
You should become a SPONSOR to earn forum recognition.
Not everyone is fan of loosing security lock with a coded emulator. One can remove/shave the ESL pin for free and the actuator will have a nice long life
Not sure what you mean by remove the pin. Are you referring to the bolt on the factory ESL? You put it back in the steering column without the bolt? Does that result in
some rattle during actuation?
Yes it's true some like to keep it factory, and I offer that service as well. But one fail is usually enough to convince most that the reliability of the emulator outweighs the extra security of the factory ESL. To each their own.
I'll look into becoming a sponsor. Thanks CaliBenz.
So got the ESL out. I wasn't able to use the T5/T6 to pull out the dowels so I just drilled them out. Place the motor and put everything back together backed on the pics and video I've seen. Looks good. Just have to figure out how to replace the open dowels. How about tightly duct tape and then reinstall it? Or maybe zip ties? Once it's in place I think it has nowhere to go and should be fine.
Put the new motor in and tested everything in the car (attached air bag and steering wheel and ESL then connected battery and put key in and out). It all works as expected... Awesome!
One thing I did by mistake... I pulled the steering column up too high and it slipped out of the bottom (where the rubber boot is). Didn't know it could do that. I pushed it back in and aligned it (I made a mark on the column thank goodness). So that should be fine right?
Did mine two years ago with a Genuine Mercedes motor from a 'specialist locksmith' in Adelaide (South Australia) It wasn't, it was cheep Chinese and did not even fit (I had to shorten the shaft by about 3 mm).
The job was easy even though the ESL was in locked position so steering column had to be removed. Only two points caused me difficulty after studying knowbenz's fantastic photos and description.
First was removal of roll pins (these are flat sheet rolled up into a small cylinder - the key to removal is the rotate them so they become thinner, not fatter then they come out with gentle pull) I stuffed up and drilled them out, then replaced them with self tappers - easy.
Second was replacement of the splined steering column shaft. Key to that is to note the three gap splines are not equally spaced around the shaft. Get them properly lined up with a bit of grease (lithium) and they go together easily.
Only other hint I give following study of knowbenz is to photograph the arrangement of the cam wheel and followers as soon as you remove the circuit board. Obvious reason.
So all good ?? YEAH NAH
Yesterday in the carpark of a shopping center - in goes the key and silence - not that welcome noise of the cheap Chinese motor like an old banger going past without a muffler.
No start - locked steering. Half and hour of anguish, and angst from the boss who was more worried about the pork roast and the ice cream.
Then suddenly in with the key and Rmm rmm. Start motor and drive home. Leave key in its socket so the ESL does not lock. Start the thinkies - do the motor again - three days at least postage on ebay - but it is unlocked and I've done it before. Maybe its the key !! it was a bit slinkie last week and I did change the battery, maybe that battery was crook.
What about an emulator this time - this morning I start to see it. Yeah yeah an emulator this time. On google to find a motor vehicle locksmith, found one, he emailed back - away but see this guy - rang. OK come round this afternoon.
Connor arrived in his big van at 4.40, we had chats, he is sore because he is just back from his first time snowboarding - I told him about my last time skiing in Switzerland and how a snowboarder knocked me flat - no worries mate!
Connor looks at the Merc - yes it could be the key, but what if he take it out and it really is Old Chinese Motor (OCM) - only one choice - New emulator and one new key (our spare is AWL anyway)
Price arranged - AUD480 for emulator, programing and removal of that green connector to the ESL - AUD400 for new key - programed and new emergency blade cut.
All finished by 6.30 pm. Connor showed me all his gear - over $100,000 worth in that old van - he can do any car, motorbike you name it.
So what do you say - which is the best way? fix the old ESL using knowbenz's fantastic help, or go Connor, or your local equivalent.
If you live on The Sunshine Coast in Queensland - ring Connor on 0422 109 433 - Tell him I sent you !!
Regards - first don't panic. Thinkies is important.
I had an absolutely nightmare ESL Failure is the latest one, I bought a used w204 cgi c250 just after a week, I had a turbo failure, replaced it, Turbo failure went on to cause injector problems and intercooler (Those P0233… error, cylinder below knock level) b’se oil was all over the car we managed to clean injectors but not intercooler, and then after 8month a bombshell Gearbox failure, Gearbox seal btn converter failed replaced it, thank god gearboxes in this car dont need programming at this point I decided am gonna do whatever it takes to keep this car, then when i was 600km away in a city where you cant even find a Toyota mechanics I had a complete ESL Failure, I had to do it the hard way, I removed the ESL it was on lock position,
I hit the steering as hard as I could, fortunately the lock releases, I remove the ESL all by my self by the way after Gearbox failure I decided to always travel with a complete set of Toolbox, sent the ignition key to another city, they programmed Emulator, I put it back, now am all good, waiting for the next one,
I'm about to undertake this fix and found what seems to be the best column removal video I've seen yet. If the column is locked, I'm planning to slot as he shows at the end as opposed to the drill and pick method.
MB ESL locked C Class Steering column with Locked ESL / *** scot coloana de volan usor EIS / EL
02-08-2022, 06:17 AM
Quick ESL fix 👍
