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What may have happened in your car is the following as it happened to me: A Chinese $5 motor in the ESL (Electric Steering Lock) has burnt out and is possibly locking the steering and not letting you start, a common problem with W204s and others.
Solution1: Watch MIKEYZs video on Youtube, if you are lucky, you can hit the ESL by removing the bottom kick plate and get the motor to start one last time or wriggling the steering wheel and at the same time putting the key in and listening if there is a sound. If so, you are lucky as the steering gets unlocked. LEAVE KEY IN, OPEN BOOT, DISCONNECT BATTERY AND THEN YOU CAN TAKE THE KEY OUT. If you make the mistake of taking the key out before, it will lock again and that may be the last time the motor turned.
If MIKEYZ's trick does not work, then you are in the poo like I was. You will have to remove the steering column to get at the ESL. If you want to save a lot of time, take off the kick plate and the surround to the gauges to get at the top two torx bolts holding the column. Use an extension and a universal to remove those top two torx and then the bottom two torx bolts holding. Remove bottom power to ESL, remove plastic cable holder at top once to have pulled column out diagonally a bit and split it to remove cable to top, then take out the whole lot without removing steering wheel and air bag! Stupid me, I removed the steering wheel with the help of my daughter, as we are looking at a 10mm hex and 80 or so Nm red-face torque! Pulling the column forward is a two-man operation as it only just fits diagonally through the front. Swearing helps!
Then the fun starts as you cannot remove the ESL with the lock out, you must cut the 10mm mounting bolt somehow with small cutting wheel on angle grinder or a two-hour job with hacksaw. Then depress the 10mm bolt and remove ESL, perhaps grinding off the edges. Then order a new motor from Aliexpress, the tool with handle to remove the four pins by hammering into the pins of the ESL and the circular tool to remove the steering lock. Watch Part 2 of MIKEYZ’s Youtube video..
Watch more Youtube to clean and lubricate the innards of the ESL with lithium grease and how to change the motor. Had to buy the motor locally as China has slowed down and as I did not know about the tool for the four pins I had to drill them out making a mess inside. There is a rumor that the NEC security chip locks the system after too many starting attempts as the motor slowly burns out and you may also have to take out the ignition lock (EZS or Exx?) with the circular Aliexpress tool and then deliver ESL, ignition lock and key to repairers, like locksmiths, who have the electronics to remove the electronic lock in the NEC chip. Cost about $400. What fun! Aliexpress and all other Chinese sellers have a 44 day delay in sending that motor and tools to Australia.
Solution 2: US$1200 or AUS$2000 repair plus towing charges with locked steering at a stealership.
Solution3: An emulator, which kids the system into believing the ESL is working correctly with electrickery. But for that to work, your steering cannot be locked. I suspect it will need the key, ESL and ignition lock to be given to an ESL expert.
mine failed in the lock position. There are people that have drilled a hole in the side and turned the gear to unlock it. I was not so fortunate and has to cut the bolt off. I then called a mobile lock smith and he put a emulator in and all is good and will never have to worry about this happening again.
Yes I followed the OP's illustration and got the ESL out via drilling a hole. I ordered a motor from Amazon. Hopefully the NEC didn't get fried. Your mobile lock smith was able to program an emulator? That's interesting, didn't think they'd have that capacity. How much did it run you good sir?
Originally Posted by domwild
What may have happened in your car is the following as it happened to me: A Chinese $5 motor in the ESL (Electric Steering Lock) has burnt out and is possibly locking the steering and not letting you start, a common problem with W204s and others.
Solution1: Watch MIKEYZs video on Youtube, if you are lucky, you can hit the ESL by removing the bottom kick plate and get the motor to start one last time or wriggling the steering wheel and at the same time putting the key in and listening if there is a sound. If so, you are lucky as the steering gets unlocked. LEAVE KEY IN, OPEN BOOT, DISCONNECT BATTERY AND THEN YOU CAN TAKE THE KEY OUT. If you make the mistake of taking the key out before, it will lock again and that may be the last time the motor turned.
If MIKEYZ's trick does not work, then you are in the poo like I was. You will have to remove the steering column to get at the ESL. If you want to save a lot of time, take off the kick plate and the surround to the gauges to get at the top two torx bolts holding the column. Use an extension and a universal to remove those top two torx and then the bottom two torx bolts holding. Remove bottom power to ESL, remove plastic cable holder at top once to have pulled column out diagonally a bit and split it to remove cable to top, then take out the whole lot without removing steering wheel and air bag! Stupid me, I removed the steering wheel with the help of my daughter, as we are looking at a 10mm hex and 80 or so Nm red-face torque! Pulling the column forward is a two-man operation as it only just fits diagonally through the front. Swearing helps!
Then the fun starts as you cannot remove the ESL with the lock out, you must cut the 10mm mounting bolt somehow with small cutting wheel on angle grinder or a two-hour job with hacksaw. Then depress the 10mm bolt and remove ESL, perhaps grinding off the edges. Then order a new motor from Aliexpress, the tool with handle to remove the four pins by hammering into the pins of the ESL and the circular tool to remove the steering lock. Watch Part 2 of MIKEYZ’s Youtube video..
Watch more Youtube to clean and lubricate the innards of the ESL with lithium grease and how to change the motor. Had to buy the motor locally as China has slowed down and as I did not know about the tool for the four pins I had to drill them out making a mess inside. There is a rumor that the NEC security chip locks the system after too many starting attempts as the motor slowly burns out and you may also have to take out the ignition lock (EZS or Exx?) with the circular Aliexpress tool and then deliver ESL, ignition lock and key to repairers, like locksmiths, who have the electronics to remove the electronic lock in the NEC chip. Cost about $400. What fun! Aliexpress and all other Chinese sellers have a 44 day delay in sending that motor and tools to Australia.
Solution 2: US$1200 or AUS$2000 repair plus towing charges with locked steering at a stealership.
Solution3: An emulator, which kids the system into believing the ESL is working correctly with electrickery. But for that to work, your steering cannot be locked. I suspect it will need the key, ESL and ignition lock to be given to an ESL expert.
Already got the ESL out and opened. Seems to be the original motor still. Yes hopefully the NEC didn't get locked.
My NEC chip did get locked and my iCarsoft MB2 diagnostic still comes up with error code A25646 "An implausible signal was sent ...". No electricity was sent to the new ESL motor and there was no noise. Will talk to the local ESL expert here in far away Perth (WA) which now is the cheaper, emulator or ESL, but in both cases the ignition lock must be supplied to the expert with a $700 machine to read codes and release.
My NEC chip did get locked and my iCarsoft MB2 diagnostic still comes up with error code A25646 "An implausible signal was sent ...". No electricity was sent to the new ESL motor and there was no noise. Will talk to the local ESL expert here in far away Perth (WA) which now is the cheaper, emulator or ESL, but in both cases the ignition lock must be supplied to the expert with a $700 machine to read codes and release.
Although I haven't had mine coded as yet mine has been doing similar in that when I turn on or shut off there is no noise from my ESL.
My ESL had a new motor fitted early last year and until recently worked flawlessly.
I'm leaning towards it being a EIS problem now as every now and then the ESL activates and usually just after I can't start the car.
Did it to me yesterday so removed the push button and inserted and turn the key on and off a few times and then the ESL sounded and car started.
During this no start time and also get key not detected coming up on dash even though key is sitting on my lap or inserted.
Strange for motor possibly only lasting one year. As you said, might be the ignition lock. Or not having used lithium or silicon grease for all the sliding parts with the new motor. Let us know what was wrong.
That's the thing when the ESL activates you definitely hear the motor.
But when its silent which it was for nearly 2 weeks it turned on and off with no other problems.
When it failed a couple of days ago the ESL activated upon switching off.
Then when I went to restart about 10 minutes later I got the Key Not detected notification on the dash and nothing.
No dash lights just nothing.
Mind you this is with the push button inserted in the EIS.
Also the few times it hasn't started has been with the button inserted.
Every time it has eventually restarted after a few attempts it has been with the key inserted and turning.
But that still doesn't explain the silence of the ESL over that 2 week period.
This why I'm swinging towards the EIS as being the culprit.
Will be leaving the button out and see what happens until i can scan it.
That's the thing when the ESL activates you definitely hear the motor.
But when its silent which it was for nearly 2 weeks it turned on and off with no other problems.
When it failed a couple of days ago the ESL activated upon switching off.
Then when I went to restart about 10 minutes later I got the Key Not detected notification on the dash and nothing.
No dash lights just nothing.
Mind you this is with the push button inserted in the EIS.
Also the few times it hasn't started has been with the button inserted.
Every time it has eventually restarted after a few attempts it has been with the key inserted and turning.
But that still doesn't explain the silence of the ESL over that 2 week period.
This why I'm swinging towards the EIS as being the culprit.
Will be leaving the button out and see what happens until i can scan it.
It was probably stuck open, hence being in the correct position when the software validates the plunger position, allowing you to start.
Still no scanner but needed to move the car yesterday so decided to see if it would start.
Put the key in (have left button out at this stage) ESL activated and car started.
Did what I needed to do, reparked and turned it off, ahh no ESL deactivation and of course car would not restart.
I then made a discovery with the key inserted.
If I hold the key down in the EIS as i insert the ESL will lock and unlock.
Move the key even slightly in opposite direction and nothing.
Tried it again this morning and same, so at least I can start it now.
Will remove the EIS and ESL and take them, Button and keys in for repair and recoding, AU$400.
Got my ESL/EIS remanufactured and refitted.
All good now.
Have a few tips on removing both (W204 facelift) having done this a few times now.
First if the ESL is "UNLOCKED" you do not need to remove the steering wheel or column.
Unfortunately if the ESL is locked you will need to remove the column to cut the bolt to release the ESL.
Remove the facia around instrument cluster.
Lower and extend the steering wheel away from dash for easier access.
Loosen the 2 front E12 bolts holding up the column, you don't need to remove them.
A 10mm, 12point ratchet spanner works great for these front bolts
Remove the 2 back E12 bolts so now you can access the ESL.
Remove the 13mm nut and you should have enough play in the column rocking up and down to remove after pushing the bolt in.
Installation is reverse.
Originally I used both MIKEYZ VLOGZ as my guide to remove ESL
Great help, Cwagon! Thanks a lot. Did Australian ECU Repairs do your ESL/EIS repair? I put in a new motor and as it probably damaged the NEC security chip, I will have to get it done by electronic locksmiths, like ECU Repair. There are emulator chaps around, but ECU Repairs claims they suffer from reliability issues? I had to take the column out and cut the 10mm mounting bolt with hacksaw, lots of fun.
Yes Australian ECU Repairs did the job AU$440.
I'm sure the units are change over as my EIS was all black and now has a grey back.
Also when I replaced the ESL motor last year I had to drill out one spring pin.
And although the ESL I got back has security stickers on it for warranty, I can't feel the drilled out hole under the sticker.
The motor in this new or remanufactured ESL is much quieter than the replacement one I fitted last year.
With your problem, if you still have the column out can i suggest you slot the bolt hole so that the ESL can be removed any time later even if locked.
Yes Australian ECU Repairs did the job AU$440.
I'm sure the units are change over as my EIS was all black and now has a grey back.
Also when I replaced the ESL motor last year I had to drill out one spring pin.
And although the ESL I got back has security stickers on it for warranty, I can't feel the drilled out hole under the sticker.
The motor in this new or remanufactured ESL is much quieter than the replacement one I fitted last year.
With your problem, if you still have the column out can i suggest you slot the bolt hole so that the ESL can be removed any time later even if locked.
Thanks, Cwagon. It will cost me $484 as I will be getting a "new" container. I will not attach the ESL any more, but thanks for the tip with the slot. I hope the insurance will not work out that the lock is missing, but after all this fuss I will be glad someone has finally stolen my Merc! My original motor lasted 13 years, the moment it plays up again with bad starting I will change the motor again. I have ordered several motors from China to make sure I get one as the mail does not work any more there.
You have to tell users the removal of the column is only necessary if the steering lock is out and locked. Then it is impossible to remove the ESL without cutting the 10mm holding bolt off or turning the wheel to pull the pin back.
I changed the motor and it still did not start, problem is that the dying motor messed up the NEC security chip and then it requires an electronic locksmith to change the NEC chip. That means sending the ESL, ignition lock (EIS/EZS) plus key to a locksmith, like Australian ECU Repairs for changing and programming, cost AUS$440 -$500.
Or get someone to add on an emulator, but some locksmiths claim users had to go back to getting the ESL fixed because of reliability problems??
Out with the old and in with the new. I finished the replacement of the ESL with an emulator this afternoon. The ESL had not failed but would occasionally take a little longer to lock or unlock. I have a facelift C250 and did have to remove the steering wheel and column switches to remove the EIS. Took about an hour. Sent the EIS and key to PRESSERTech on Monday and received the programmed emulator on Thursday. Installation took a couple of hours since I decided to remove the old ESL. Not strictly necessary as I could have just tie-wrapped the emulator to the steering column but I thought while I'm here I may as well do the job properly. Only issue is that the emulator makes a little mouse squeak rather than the old sound. Small price to pay for not having to worry about being stranded with a locked steering column.
I basically followed mickeyz vlogz video (thanks!) and watched several other YouTube videos. None specifically referenced the facelift vehicles so I have a few pointers for facelift C250s (may apply to other models):
You don't have to remove any of the trim around the instrument cluster. You can just gently ease out the bottom trim above the column to remove the trim around the column. If you do decide to remove the trim around the instrument cluster you should do so in the following order: trim with middle ac vents, bottom cluster trim, upper cluster trim. The top and bottom cluster trim interlock at each end and if you try to remove the top trim first you will break it (ask me how I know). You also cannot remove the bottom trim without first removing the trim with the middle ac vents. As all the best manuals say installation order is the reverse of removal and the top and bottom trims will interlock properly.
The facelift C250 did not have an intermediate electrical plug for the ESL midway along the column. The wire simply had the plug for the ESL. The wire is just long enough and make sure you don't trap it between the column and the column mounting points when you are bolting the column back in place (again, ask me how I know). By the way, partially install the front two shorter bolts first then the rear two longer bolts. The front bolts tightened almost all the way orient the column properly to allow the bottom bolts to be threaded by hand. Leave all the bolts loose until all are installed then tighten everything down.
The steering wheel didn't seem to want to push all the way home. I removed and reseated the column switch assembly several times with the column raised/lowered and retracted/extended but without success. I ended up pushing on the steering wheel while tightening the bolt. I could feel a sort of spring action while pushing the wheel which moved it the last part of the way. The distance between the rear of the steering wheel and the front of the column switch housing looks correct and the bolt torqued properly. I had removed the steering wheel last year to replace the steering wheel switches and trim and don't remember having to push while tightening. The car drives and steers just as before so perhaps after removing the column switches everything has to be pushed home.
So next, order and replace the broken cluster trim (old trim is back in place but I know it will rattle and drive me nuts) then tackle replacing the shifter module which won't disengage the lock or light up any of the shift LEDs.
Not bad, as he said if you've done it already it's quite easy.
- Airbag (either two t30 on an early car, or two push in locks on later cars)
--- must disconnect battery before you unplug it, or you get an SRS malfunction that must be reset with SDS
- Steering wheel (10mm allen, easier with air tools, mark it to the column for correct placement on reassembly)
-Steering column module (switches) pulls straight out and unplugs, seperate from the boot at the base, then remove that also.
-Footwell underpanel, 3x T20 screws, small phillps for hood latch, plugs for OBD2 and lights.
-Steering shaft, one T45 bolt, may be difficult to access if the wheel isn't straight ahead or close to it.
- Column itself, 4 inverted torx (E12?), different length front and rear.
- Unplug ESL harness
Then it works out the front, or you can drop it down by the pedals and slide it out the bottom,
How in the world do yall get it come out from the bottom I don't have room even if I swing it to left. I have a 2010 C300 do I need to take anything off the columns pumps and what not?
If your ESL is still unlocked you do not need to remove the column.
Just undo the 13mm nut, push the bolt in and wiggle the ESL out of the column.
When I first did mine I was like you "How do you get the column out".
Then after a few attempts suddenly I could get it out from underneath.
Funnily enough I put it back through the column opening.
Don't ask me how, it just worked.
If your ESL is still unlocked you do not need to remove the column.
Just undo the 13mm nut, push the bolt in and wiggle the ESL out of the column.
When I first did mine I was like you "How do you get the column out".
Then after a few attempts suddenly I could get it out from underneath.
Funnily enough I put it back through the column opening.
Don't ask me how, it just worked.
Mine is in the locked position. I can't get column out I believe bc steering wheel isn't retracted. I gotta adjust it to closed position. But if I plug everything back and connect battery I just hope it works
Newbie here and I swapped out my ESL motor today. See pic of the failing motor
My Car
2010 C250 CGI 44k miles
Symptoms
I started getting intermittent failure in the last two weeks and took the plunge. I had to tool up for a few bits, but highly recommend doing this yourself if you have moderate DIY skills, maybe not for a beginner.
PITA moments
1. Failed trying to remove the 13mm nut in-situ. Mine was in the unlocked position so should've been achievable
2. PITA x 10 Taking the 4 metal dowel pins out of the ESL case, made a complete mess out of one those and broke a few drill bits retrieving the last dowel pin
Plan for future
Perform this preventative action again in 5 years if I still own the car
Hi guys, first post on here, own a 2010 200 cdi amg estate based in Uk.
Just wanted to say thanks to the original poster, mine was in locked position, managed to get 3 dowels out and had to drill the last one, just waiting for my new motor to turn up via Ebay to finish the job
quite easy to do if you have basic mechanical knowledge. Saved me a pile of heartache and money !
Thanks again all !!
Unlocked: Getting the 13mm ESL bolt out is easy if you have a 13mm socket with a circular "turning wheel" surrounding it as space is limited. Got that idea from a Youtube video, but forgot that Aussie name of his.
Dowels of ESL case: Aliexpress sells ESL motors plus a simple wooden handle thing with a conical sharp end to remove the dowels. It arrived AFTER I had drilled them all out and made a mess and as I had made a mistake installing the motor, Australian ???, a locksmith then charged me an extra $40 for the case, probably a second-hand one, as Merc only sells complete ESL to dealers.
Great if drivers read this and panic the moment one has to turn the lock several times. Hitting the ESL helps to move the half-dead carbon brushes just that much closer. Mine locked up at home under a tree a huge branch had fallen off before, so I had to build a roof over my beloved Merc just in case more branches fall! Locksmiths claim to install genuine German ESL motors, this is BS as Merc definitely does not sell them, so I just hung the ESL off the column for the next time the Chinese motor fails!
I still have a few motors left over plus that magic dowel handle if you have trouble getting motors ex China at the moment.
Why are people using velcro or zip ties to reinstall the repaired ESL? I'm missing something here.
Are you not installing the bolt and instead using the velcro so you don't get locked out again?
Doing this job right now.
Miserable.
For me, I went to turn on my car, nothing. Thought it might be battery so I tried jumping, then having tested, then putting in brand new battery. Nothing.
Had it towed to my house, found out it was probably the ESL, and started going through this tutorial.
What was weird for me was that my steering wheel was locked. But when I went to remove the ESL, I was able to push the bolt in and remove easy-peasy.
WHAT?
So, what happened? Was mine locked? Unlocked?
Anyways, replaced the motor, simple to do. BUT, when I hooked back up to car and tried to turn on. NOTHING. Still the "Remove Key" in dash.
Any ideas, folks? Trying to avoid the stealership.
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