w212 cabriolet

I think your idea would work. I have the same situation. Most of my car suspension parts are replaced recently only except for shock-ups. But, there is still noise only when driving up or down to the hill with that a one-side tire gets on first.

TimC300

Car does not have to be on the ground under load when installing or torqueing the sway bar links. There is no logic to it. If anything it may make install more difficult, the stud may become cocked under load instead of staying straight, the collar may not sit completely flush against the surface you're bolting to.. Its like most ball joints ive ever replaced. The rear links with the bushing at the bottom is another story though. Im only talking the ball joint type ends.

See photo below. The red line represents the sway bar or part of the strut the link is being bolted to.



Bushings are a whole other story, they are designed to twist like torsion bars do. Those parts need to be torqued down in the normal resting position or else the bushings will wear prematurely.


I thought I was going to save alot of money and bought an inexpensive aftermarket set off Amazon, when I got them they even looked like the Mercedes links, even had the Mercedes stamping but could tell they were a knock off. Come to find out instead of the ball joint and collar being machined from one piece those links had the collar part just pressed on. Upon trying to tighten the nuts it basically pushed the collars into the ball joint. Took it for a drive and started clunking around a few miles down the road. Thankfully I could return for my money back from Amazon. I then ordered the Febi brand links from FCP, I figured if they break at least I get a free replacement. But they have been working great, no noise at all.






To remove the existing links I used a cordless impact wrench which worked well to zip the nuts right off, at least loosen them much of the way. The nuts on there were Mercedes lock nuts, part# 000000003276. I have reused these types of nuts no problem. Also to take all the tension off the sway bar i jacked the car up from the front middle jacking point, jack stands under the side jacking points. I mention this because if you try to just do one side at a time with the opposite side wheel still on the ground the sway bar is twisted and the bolt holes dont line up.



When I was doing some rear suspension work I kept removing the spring control arms and was beating those nuts up pretty good so went down to my local Mercedes dealer to order a few more. The nuts are the same nuts used for the front links. What they gave me was part# 000000008269. The nuts are the same thread and fit the bolts perfectly, they are a nylon style lock nut though. They were $2.40 each.




Ill also add that when installing the new links I used a closed end wrench paired with an allen bit, the Febi links use an allen style stud, and tightened the nuts down. When they were on tight I switched to just a torque wrench and socket and was able to torque them down no problem, the studs did not spin.