BenzManNy

Replaced the sway bar links because one was damaged and because I am planning to trade it in, I went with Centric and now the car has this clunking noise every time I run over a small pothole or dip in the road. Could it be that the links are too long, maybe the bolt is longer than OEM or just those links are crap.
Any ideas before I run to the dealer to buy OEM.

Just204

Sounds like they were not tightened enough and there is play. Or they are no good for the car.

BenzManNy

I took the car back to the mechanic and verified that they were tight. Noise still there.

Just204

Did he check for movement of the end links while there was load on the wheels? I had this before on a car and it was the end link making the noise.

Funkwagen

They're very picky about tightening torque. If undertorqued, they will begin to clunk very quickly as they come just slightly loose. The bolts/nuts come under some significant strain when the car turns, etc. They can appear/feel tight while they're not.

It's annoying torquing them properly because they require a counterhold on the bolt with a hex/torx bit depending on if you've gone aftermarket or OE. I had to use a crowfoot socket to do mine properly.

arkim989

I had the same problem, changed sway bar link and after driving alittle bit i started getting cluncking noise. So i parked the car and pushed the front side of the car on which the sway bar was replaced and i heard cluncking. You need to tighten it while the car is on the ground. When mechanics lifts the car, wheels are free and it seems like sway bar links and all the suspension parts are tight but when on the ground its loose (wrong way to check your suspension) Drive on the ramp and tighten it..

Funkwagen

Good point, I originally installed mine by placing a jack under the steering knuckle on each side to compress the struts while installing the links

Just204

This is why I asked if it was checked with the suspension under load lol. When you do suspension work final tightening/adjustments need to be under load.

Nicholi2007

Did you need to use a mallet to get the nut off?

I'm about to tackle this and fear the nut will be on tight. I presume metal mallet and not rubber is recommended...

Tom in Austin

You'd think they'd use a nylon self-locking nut, locktite, or something on these ...

Just204

I used channel locks on the rod side to hold the threads and just used an impact gun (3/8”) and zipped them off. Damages the link boot but your tossing it anyway. To tighten the nut for the new link take the channel locks and squeeze the rod end against the sway bar, that will keep it still while tightening. a wrench or ratchet will do also.

Nicholi2007

That sounds like it works well and saves time.

The left side sounds like a pin ball machine. I've been driving on it for 1 week. Kind of concerned....

Unfortunately, I don't have an impact gun. Home depot has rentals.

Just204

u in NY? U can come to my garage and I’ll help you with it. Just an offer if your close

Nicholi2007

I wish I was. I'm in Los Angeles. It's always good to gain experience. Thanks for offering.

Xzero

If you want to do this job properly, get a set of pass-through sockets:




I used a T50 on a 1/4 ratchet with the 18 or 19mm pass through socket (may be different size from OEM/aftermarket) and can change out the endlinks by driving onto some ramps and turning the wheel each way, takes 20 minutes per side.

Tom in Austin

I use the pass-through sockets as well on mine, definitely the easiest way. Harbor Freight has a nice set for a reasonable price, and I've found other uses for these, so a good thing to have in your tool drawer. In my case, I got good results using an ordinary hex key to hold the bolt in position. It only has to hold to a certain point and then you can do final torque without it moving. BTW, not sure I've seen a torque spec, but looking at the size of the bolt and nut, would guess 35 - 40 ft-lbs is enough. That's about as much as I can put on my pass-through wrench handle anyway.

Something else I learned is to lift the front of the car from the center lift point on the subframe so both wheels are in the air. If only one side is raised then I couldn't tighten the link correctly. Having the car on ramps and tightening with weight on the wheels sounds good too, but I haven't found it necessary to keep mine quiet.

It's interesting that the link bolt isn't tapered like a ball joint or tie rod end. If it were it would seat better and be less likely to loosen and move, IMO.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I'll use a locknut or some locktite on this thing if I have to tighten it again.

Just204

To be honest, I don’t see the need to have the links under load while tightening, they have a ball joint end meaning as long as you make sure they aren’t loose they are good. The whole under load while tightening is in regards to bushings such as the lower control arm bushing, that is important because if you don’t tighten at ride height the bushing will be twisted excessively when on the ground causing early failure. I always did end links in the air and just made sure they were tight, our end links are not universal, there’s a left and right side and you need to put the correct one on each side. I did my end links about a year ago in the air, still no issues. Another thing, the end link bolts are one time use only, they act like a locknut and should not loosen. I’d recommend OEM end links and OEM end nuts(2 for each). Be sure to match the end link part numbers to the correct side.

Nicholi2007

I bought the Lemforder set which comes with two nuts. Is Loctite needed? I presume no.

I did buy the pass thru socket set.

In the interim, I'm hoping my bad stabilizer links don't stress the struts too much...

Just204

if they come with Teflon inserts or look different from a regular nut (has a crown) you don’t, in general you should not be needing lock tight for something like that, only a few specific bolts (never seen a nut with lock tight in it) will be covered with a coating of lock tight and they come like that. Stabilizer bar links will not do anything to the strut harm wise.

issanesh98

Hello everyone,

I have the same symptoms of the original thread starter. I replaced the front sway bar links and a noise started happening in the front end when I hit sharp bumps, like a small rattle clunk. Originally I used aftermarket sway bar links and then bought genuine ones, but the noise was still there. I even replaced the whole front sway bar cause I thought the bushings were shot and loose. Noise still there. I’m going to try and load the suspension when I tighten the sway bar links tomorrow but something tells me it’s not going to work. I also thought it was my strut mount bearings. Has this happened to anyone else? I’d like to hear someone else’s opinion

xsever

Everything needs to be tightened while the car is down on its 4 wheels and not jacked up. This is usually a cause for suspension noise with new parts. Let us know.

issanesh98

I wont be able to tighten anything with the car on its wheels but I was thinking I could jack the front of the car, take the wheels off and put a jack stand under each front knuckle and lay it down as if it were on its wheels so that I can actually access the bolts. Do you think that would work? Or would I need a fancy lift like those in the body shops

issanesh98

I tightened the bolts when the suspension was loaded. The front knuckles were fully resting on jack stands on level ground. I could freely move the links in the bolt holes without feeling any preload or tension on the sway bar. I tightened them back up and made sure they were tight but the noise was still there. The noise happened less frequently after I changed the front sway bar. It must’ve tightened up the front suspension a little. I’m thinking it can’t be the sway bar or the links, I’m thinking it’s the front strut bearings being a loose. What do you guys think it could be?

alynch

Just a thought. Remove the sway bar links and the sway bar then drive around and see if you still have the noise. You can drive without a sway bar for a short while without any detrimental effects. It will be a handful if you try any 1G corners so don’t that :-)

issanesh98

Thats not a bad idea.. Also if i disconnect the sway bar, then the noise should occur more often and maybe Ill be able to pinpoint it. Ill need to remove them when I have time. Ill let you guys know what happens. Soon ill be able to change these sway bar links with my eyes closed