Replaced the sway bar links and the problems started
#1
Replaced the sway bar links and the problems started
Replaced the sway bar links because one was damaged and because I am planning to trade it in, I went with Centric and now the car has this clunking noise every time I run over a small pothole or dip in the road. Could it be that the links are too long, maybe the bolt is longer than OEM or just those links are crap.
Any ideas before I run to the dealer to buy OEM.
Any ideas before I run to the dealer to buy OEM.
#5
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 701
Likes: 103
From: Ontario, Canada
2009 C63 AMG, 2010 C250 4Matic Sport
They're very picky about tightening torque. If undertorqued, they will begin to clunk very quickly as they come just slightly loose. The bolts/nuts come under some significant strain when the car turns, etc. They can appear/feel tight while they're not.
It's annoying torquing them properly because they require a counterhold on the bolt with a hex/torx bit depending on if you've gone aftermarket or OE. I had to use a crowfoot socket to do mine properly.
It's annoying torquing them properly because they require a counterhold on the bolt with a hex/torx bit depending on if you've gone aftermarket or OE. I had to use a crowfoot socket to do mine properly.
Last edited by Funkwagen; 05-05-2017 at 09:03 AM.
#6
Member
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 126
Likes: 7
From: Boston MA
C320 sport 2003, c300 4matic sport 2013, 2018 GLE63 AMG
I had the same problem, changed sway bar link and after driving alittle bit i started getting cluncking noise. So i parked the car and pushed the front side of the car on which the sway bar was replaced and i heard cluncking. You need to tighten it while the car is on the ground. When mechanics lifts the car, wheels are free and it seems like sway bar links and all the suspension parts are tight but when on the ground its loose (wrong way to check your suspension) Drive on the ramp and tighten it..
The following users liked this post:
Funkwagen (05-05-2017)
Trending Topics
#8
This is why I asked if it was checked with the suspension under load lol. When you do suspension work final tightening/adjustments need to be under load.
#11
I used channel locks on the rod side to hold the threads and just used an impact gun (3/8”) and zipped them off. Damages the link boot but your tossing it anyway. To tighten the nut for the new link take the channel locks and squeeze the rod end against the sway bar, that will keep it still while tightening. a wrench or ratchet will do also.
#12
I used channel locks on the rod side to hold the threads and just used an impact gun (3/8”) and zipped them off. Damages the link boot but your tossing it anyway. To tighten the nut for the new link take the channel locks and squeeze the rod end against the sway bar, that will keep it still while tightening. a wrench or ratchet will do also.
The left side sounds like a pin ball machine. I've been driving on it for 1 week. Kind of concerned....
Unfortunately, I don't have an impact gun. Home depot has rentals.
#13
u in NY? U can come to my garage and I’ll help you with it. Just an offer if your close
#14
#15
If you want to do this job properly, get a set of pass-through sockets:
I used a T50 on a 1/4 ratchet with the 18 or 19mm pass through socket (may be different size from OEM/aftermarket) and can change out the endlinks by driving onto some ramps and turning the wheel each way, takes 20 minutes per side.
I used a T50 on a 1/4 ratchet with the 18 or 19mm pass through socket (may be different size from OEM/aftermarket) and can change out the endlinks by driving onto some ramps and turning the wheel each way, takes 20 minutes per side.
Last edited by Xzero; 05-12-2020 at 07:26 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Xzero:
Nicholi2007 (05-14-2020),
xsever (05-13-2020)
#16
I use the pass-through sockets as well on mine, definitely the easiest way. Harbor Freight has a nice set for a reasonable price, and I've found other uses for these, so a good thing to have in your tool drawer. In my case, I got good results using an ordinary hex key to hold the bolt in position. It only has to hold to a certain point and then you can do final torque without it moving. BTW, not sure I've seen a torque spec, but looking at the size of the bolt and nut, would guess 35 - 40 ft-lbs is enough. That's about as much as I can put on my pass-through wrench handle anyway.
Something else I learned is to lift the front of the car from the center lift point on the subframe so both wheels are in the air. If only one side is raised then I couldn't tighten the link correctly. Having the car on ramps and tightening with weight on the wheels sounds good too, but I haven't found it necessary to keep mine quiet.
It's interesting that the link bolt isn't tapered like a ball joint or tie rod end. If it were it would seat better and be less likely to loosen and move, IMO.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, I'll use a locknut or some locktite on this thing if I have to tighten it again.
Something else I learned is to lift the front of the car from the center lift point on the subframe so both wheels are in the air. If only one side is raised then I couldn't tighten the link correctly. Having the car on ramps and tightening with weight on the wheels sounds good too, but I haven't found it necessary to keep mine quiet.
It's interesting that the link bolt isn't tapered like a ball joint or tie rod end. If it were it would seat better and be less likely to loosen and move, IMO.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, I'll use a locknut or some locktite on this thing if I have to tighten it again.
#17
To be honest, I don’t see the need to have the links under load while tightening, they have a ball joint end meaning as long as you make sure they aren’t loose they are good. The whole under load while tightening is in regards to bushings such as the lower control arm bushing, that is important because if you don’t tighten at ride height the bushing will be twisted excessively when on the ground causing early failure. I always did end links in the air and just made sure they were tight, our end links are not universal, there’s a left and right side and you need to put the correct one on each side. I did my end links about a year ago in the air, still no issues. Another thing, the end link bolts are one time use only, they act like a locknut and should not loosen. I’d recommend OEM end links and OEM end nuts(2 for each). Be sure to match the end link part numbers to the correct side.
The following users liked this post:
TimC300 (11-02-2023)
#18
To be honest, I don’t see the need to have the links under load while tightening, they have a ball joint end meaning as long as you make sure they aren’t loose they are good. The whole under load while tightening is in regards to bushings such as the lower control arm bushing, that is important because if you don’t tighten at ride height the bushing will be twisted excessively when on the ground causing early failure. I always did end links in the air and just made sure they were tight, our end links are not universal, there’s a left and right side and you need to put the correct one on each side. I did my end links about a year ago in the air, still no issues. Another thing, the end link bolts are one time use only, they act like a locknut and should not loosen. I’d recommend OEM end links and OEM end nuts(2 for each). Be sure to match the end link part numbers to the correct side.
I did buy the pass thru socket set.
In the interim, I'm hoping my bad stabilizer links don't stress the struts too much...
The following users liked this post:
xsever (05-19-2020)
#19
if they come with Teflon inserts or look different from a regular nut (has a crown) you don’t, in general you should not be needing lock tight for something like that, only a few specific bolts (never seen a nut with lock tight in it) will be covered with a coating of lock tight and they come like that. Stabilizer bar links will not do anything to the strut harm wise.
#20
W204 Front end clunking after replacing sway bar
Hello everyone,
I have the same symptoms of the original thread starter. I replaced the front sway bar links and a noise started happening in the front end when I hit sharp bumps, like a small rattle clunk. Originally I used aftermarket sway bar links and then bought genuine ones, but the noise was still there. I even replaced the whole front sway bar cause I thought the bushings were shot and loose. Noise still there. I’m going to try and load the suspension when I tighten the sway bar links tomorrow but something tells me it’s not going to work. I also thought it was my strut mount bearings. Has this happened to anyone else? I’d like to hear someone else’s opinion
I have the same symptoms of the original thread starter. I replaced the front sway bar links and a noise started happening in the front end when I hit sharp bumps, like a small rattle clunk. Originally I used aftermarket sway bar links and then bought genuine ones, but the noise was still there. I even replaced the whole front sway bar cause I thought the bushings were shot and loose. Noise still there. I’m going to try and load the suspension when I tighten the sway bar links tomorrow but something tells me it’s not going to work. I also thought it was my strut mount bearings. Has this happened to anyone else? I’d like to hear someone else’s opinion
#21
Hello everyone,
I have the same symptoms of the original thread starter. I replaced the front sway bar links and a noise started happening in the front end when I hit sharp bumps, like a small rattle clunk. Originally I used aftermarket sway bar links and then bought genuine ones, but the noise was still there. I even replaced the whole front sway bar cause I thought the bushings were shot and loose. Noise still there. I’m going to try and load the suspension when I tighten the sway bar links tomorrow but something tells me it’s not going to work. I also thought it was my strut mount bearings. Has this happened to anyone else? I’d like to hear someone else’s opinion
I have the same symptoms of the original thread starter. I replaced the front sway bar links and a noise started happening in the front end when I hit sharp bumps, like a small rattle clunk. Originally I used aftermarket sway bar links and then bought genuine ones, but the noise was still there. I even replaced the whole front sway bar cause I thought the bushings were shot and loose. Noise still there. I’m going to try and load the suspension when I tighten the sway bar links tomorrow but something tells me it’s not going to work. I also thought it was my strut mount bearings. Has this happened to anyone else? I’d like to hear someone else’s opinion
#22
I wont be able to tighten anything with the car on its wheels but I was thinking I could jack the front of the car, take the wheels off and put a jack stand under each front knuckle and lay it down as if it were on its wheels so that I can actually access the bolts. Do you think that would work? Or would I need a fancy lift like those in the body shops
#23
I tightened the bolts when the suspension was loaded. The front knuckles were fully resting on jack stands on level ground. I could freely move the links in the bolt holes without feeling any preload or tension on the sway bar. I tightened them back up and made sure they were tight but the noise was still there. The noise happened less frequently after I changed the front sway bar. It must’ve tightened up the front suspension a little. I’m thinking it can’t be the sway bar or the links, I’m thinking it’s the front strut bearings being a loose. What do you guys think it could be?
#24
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 400
Likes: 120
From: Panama City, FL
2020 C300, 2013 C250, 2000 Boxster S
Re: Sway Bar Links
I tightened the bolts when the suspension was loaded. The front knuckles were fully resting on jack stands on level ground. I could freely move the links in the bolt holes without feeling any preload or tension on the sway bar. I tightened them back up and made sure they were tight but the noise was still there. The noise happened less frequently after I changed the front sway bar. It must’ve tightened up the front suspension a little. I’m thinking it can’t be the sway bar or the links, I’m thinking it’s the front strut bearings being a loose. What do you guys think it could be?
#25
Thats not a bad idea.. Also if i disconnect the sway bar, then the noise should occur more often and maybe Ill be able to pinpoint it. Ill need to remove them when I have time. Ill let you guys know what happens. Soon ill be able to change these sway bar links with my eyes closed