superangrypenguin

I'm finally earning my name: "superangrypenguin"

When driving over a speed bump, the front suspension will creak as the car rebounds from the low point to return back to stasis.

So ....drive....BUMP...tires then drive over bump, then creak. Both sides.

Issue was resolved after replacing both front struts and now 11 months later, it's back.

Do you guys hear a squeak when driving over speed bumps?

Mgloznao

Yes I have the same problem car is about to reach 39000 miles. Thought of replacing them to get rid of the noise but not if it's an endless money pit.

xsever

On the C209 CLK, this creak is usually, if not always, due to the sway bar/stabilizer bar bushings going dry and needing lubrication or replacement.

Carsy

The longer I visit this forum the more I am convinced that the W204 C class is a car that has to be treated gently.

I read of people driving it like a sports car/ spirited driving/ going through the rev range. This type of use seems to create problems .

Michael's & SAP's experiences with problems seem to back this up as they like to "drive the car hard".

It simply does not take it.

The other thought that comes to mind is whether MB cars made for the North American market are not put together as well as MB cars destined for other markets.

gianton

My 2013 S204 with 152k miles is dead silent going over bumps on the bad Greek roads. It's a German import...

superangrypenguin

Umm Carsy...

Curious - what does driving the car hard have anything to do with extreme up/down movements of a wheel when driving over a speed bump slowly/gently?

I mean...5km/hr at most over a bump.

Yes, I confess. I drive the snot out of that thing (at operating temperature), and only on a straight line (as I don't like burning through tires). However, these cars are built for that sort of driving (say on the Autobahn). In an effort to keep things on track though, I still don't know how one can infer that driving a car hard would equate to....suspension problems only when the wheel goes up, then down, then up again when driving over a pretty large speed bump. <--note: outside of this sound being caused by driving over a pretty large speed bump - there are no weird noises

Cardfan91

Could it possibly be the upper strut mount? The spring seat, pad and bumper rubber could have deteriorated and might be causing the sound. Just a thought.

Carsy

I would be interested if you could post a list of the reasons for problem visits to the dealer /repairer.

I have one out of warranty repair in 10 years , replaced a engine coolant thermostat, not counting recalls.

superangrypenguin

Sure!

1) Parking brake squeal - turned out to be loose springs in the parking brake assembly (I paid for parts, labor goodwilled)
2) Front suspension creak/groan (e.g. the same issue in this thread) (front struts replaced under warranty)
3) Bluetooth disconnect - will be getting the COMAND unit replaced (will be replaced under warranty)
4) Added the camber/caster bolt kit in order to get a 100% perfect alignment (I paid for parts, labor goodwilled)
5) Some throttle pedal sensor issue (was replaced). Vehicle went into limp mode once/twice on the highway (replaced/repaired under warranty)

I honestly can't think of anything else.

As far as maintenance work goes

1) Oil/filter change
2) Transmission and TQ fluid drain and fill
3) Cabin filter replaced
4) Engine air filter replaced
5) Tire rotations
6) Maps updated
7) Wiper blades replaced twice now in 5 years

michail71

I was thinking upper strut mount too.

I don't think I drive hard but I can't keep my car out of the shop.
Although I've seen people debating on here that it seems like the ones that drive hard have fewer problems.

superangrypenguin

An argument can be made for this especially for those who drive cars that have engines that utilize direct injection.

For example, if you drive a car like a grandmother especially when the engine is new, there is a higher probability that the piston rings don't seat properly, essentially causing scoring of the cylinder wall. The alleged claim is that as a result of this there is more contamination of the engine oil as vapors and combustion gasses and such get past the cylinder seal and thus contaminate the oil. This causes a decrease in the flashpoint temperature of the oil which then causes higher oil volatility which then causes the oil to shear, break down more, etc and the end result is more crap on the intake valves, and an increased amount of oil consumption (and failed PCV vales etc).

That's the only logical argument I have heard which supports the theory you have. However, I am fairly certain that by revving my engine to redline at least once a drive is not doing my engine any favors. Then again, I always ensure my engine is up to operating temperature, always ensure it cools down well, and is always in optimal health.

Keep in mind that our cars are designed and tested (for the large part) in Germany. Revving an engine several times to redline in a day is something that a normal German motorist who drives a 3.0L engine producing 228 HP (in my case) would do on the Autobahn (it does produce limited HP after all).

michail71

Wow, you're lucky.

1) Power Steering system repaired
2) Wiring harness replaced
3) Tensioner pulley and drive belt replaced
4) Comand HU replaced for failing Nav
5) Interior trim pieces replaced and being damaged by #4.
6) CD/DVD fails to work in new Comand HU, ran data logs for engineers.
7) Various rattles from #4
8) Alignment bolts
9) back for alignment fix
10) First fuel cut at 24K miles. ECU flashed.
11) Alignment fix again
12) More rattle fixes from #4
13) another alignment adjustment
14) Alternator replaced
15) Wheel speed sensor failed
16) Another CEL from fuel cut. (@ 25K miles)
17) another alignment adjustment (gave up)
18) Valve stem replaced for jamming
19) Fuel door replaced
20) New Battery
21) Fuel cut check - can't reproduce
22) Air vent outlet replaced? I have no idea what that is
23) Door panel switch replaced
24) Fuel cut check
25) rattles from #4 fixed again
- warranty ends -
26) HPFP failure (as reported 10, 16, 21, 24)



So much of it was damage done by the dealer on one repair, an alignment that never seemed to take and a HPFP issue that took 30K miles before the dealer could reproduce.

tapankd

Hello.. Can you please explain what do you mean by fuel cut.. Thanks

Rodpwnz

Had the exact same thing at 39K miles and my front struts were replaced under warranty, seemed to fix the issue.

I had another noise recently, at 80k miles, that was more of a knock sound and it was the sway bar bushings.

michail71

Under full throttle (usually while pulling out into heavy traffic) the power suddenly drops, car goes into limp mode and a CEL turns on. Car goes back to normal after a key cycle and eventually the CEL turns off.

xEryx

That's not true, I drive my car worse than most people drive their C63's, downshifting into 1st at almost every stop sign and red lining it all the way to 3rd. I have put 35k miles in the last 2 years which puts it at 80k and I have had 0 mechanical issues. I believe it is all based on quality control during production and how much it was babied. If it was babied by the first owner, it will not like me WOTing it.

xEryx

I do have some suspension rattling though on the rear that I need diagnosed when going over potholes. I had my front sway bars replaced under warranty before the H&R SS were put on by the suggestion of the install shop who said they were almost worm out. I no longer have warranty and even if did, I have H&R SS so they wouldn't cover it so I am going to fix it myself.
Right now I have my rear brakes apart since I am replacing the parking brakes, but I haven't looked into how to diagnose suspension noise so it will probably be for another day.

michail71

I forgot to add the cam adjuster failure. That one was a biggie.

xEryx

Where you purchased your car from? I can't believe you didn't realized how troublesome your car would have been if you pulled the CarFax and it had 10 page of fixes.

HBC350

You overestimate the power and knowledge of Carfax. Nearly worthless in my opinion. Pretty much only good for knowing where the car was registered during its lifetime and whether an insurance company paid for a collision repair (and the latter only after considerable lag time between the date of loss and reporting to Carfax).

michail71

All but the first two were mine. Before I got the car I had found the services completed on time at the Cutler Bay MB dealership. The power steering and wiring harness issues were on there but I don't know what that was about.

My primary issues while I have owned the car were HPFP (very common), cam adjuster failure (very common), wheel speed sensor (somewhat common) and alignments that were always off (very common).

The navigation failure was uncommon but the dealer really messed up the interior of the car. They took several month to fix the issue and tore the inside of the car just about completely out (seats, trunk, dash, instrument cluster, etc.). It had sever trim pieces gouged out and the instrument cluster developed a nasty rattle from having the cluster swapped out in testing. Over numerous visits the rattle has never been fixed 100%.

xEryx

Carfax is almost always accurate when it comes to repairs that were performed at a dealer. He could have seen how many different times the car had xyz replaced and noticed a pattern.

xEryx

I hope you found a more competent dealer after all these issues?

michail71

What sucks is dealers don't want to touch other dealer's mistakes. I tried that one. Had my car in for over a month at another dealership. They wouldn't touch the problems from the other. So then I had to make an appointment back at the original dealer. This other dealer was also the one that did the alignment that never took. Car would be straight but the wheel was crooked. Fix the wheel then the car pulled, etc.

It all drove me freaking bonkers, lol.

For the rattle alone they probably put me in a loaner for a total of three or four weeks between all the visits. Why they just didn't order a new trim piece for less than $200 is beyond me. They probably wracked up well over a thousand dollars of time and loaner vehicle costs just for the sticking putty on the rattle they originally caused.

While it was nice to get loaners just the mess of constant appointments and not knowing day to day, week to week and month to month if my car would be done or not got to be tiresome.

HBC350

You are mistaken.