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Where the hell is it? haha. Any info I can find on the interwebz is for older twin throttle body models. There is almost zero room between the motor / firewall. If its hiding back there I quit
If you were to look at the back of the engine block (without transmission in place of course) the crank sensor is installed at the 10 O'clock position.
If you were to look at the back of the engine block (without transmission in place of course) the crank sensor is installed at the 10 O'clock position.
Ok - thats where I thought it was but I haven't been able to located it. Can you confirm it's location in the below image? Is it necessary to remove the heat shield that covers the firewall to access it? In other words... do you know how I would gain access to the area? I've had the heat shield 90% removed then decided I was heading in the wrong direction. That thing is a pain in the ***. I assume it's accessable from under the hood as well? or can you reach it from underneath?
Bump. Any updates on this? I am stuck too, car dead in the driveway, crank no start. Have new OEM crank position sensor but having extreme problems with removing the old one.
I would get a second opinion are you sure it's the crank position sensor? I asked numerous dealers and Indy shops when I thought my car had an issue they all said they have never changed this part on any 2008+ models.
I bought the pet and spent hours trying to get it from the top end of the engine it seems impossible unless you have baby hands and adult length arms. There has to be a tool for this!
For me it was cleaning the air filters my issues went away. Damn construction!
update: I replaced the crank sensor with a brand new part. It was tricky because the fastener is a T30 torx screw not a bolt as on other models.
BUT
Car still cranks, no start. But seems to pop and stumble at times and seemed to start for 1 second. 55psi at the fuel rail, fuel fuses are good. Torque Pro shows no CEL codes.
Stuck with no car for 4 days, any other tips?
did you change your spark plugs recently? check the alternator? it seems weird theres no codes.....
plugs were changed by dealer about a year ago as part of scheduled service intervals. Battery fully charged again after many attempts to start, i drained it over the past 4 days trying to start repeatedly. Battery is good shape 2016 and alternator kept it charged.
Maybe someone could guide me to which relays or fuses to check on ignition spark side?
update: I replaced the crank sensor with a brand new part. It was tricky because the fastener is a T30 torx screw not a bolt as on other models.
BUT
Car still cranks, no start. But seems to pop and stumble at times and seemed to start for 1 second. 55psi at the fuel rail, fuel fuses are good. Torque Pro shows no CEL codes.
Stuck with no car for 4 days, any other tips?
Did you find the sensor location? I never did and I gave up for the moment because it starts just fine when it's not hot outside... but the problem will return. I ripped out a ton of stuff where I marked that X on the previous image but never could find it.
Did you find the sensor location? I never did and I gave up for the moment because it starts just fine when it's not hot outside... but the problem will return. I ripped out a ton of stuff where I marked that X on the previous image but never could find it.
Yes. The crank position sensor is located directly below the vacuum pump on the 2011 C300 W204. The sensor is fastened at a 45 degree off vertical, on the driver's side (Canadian car).
Here are some tips as most of the instructions on youtube and elsewhere are misleading or incorrect:
On my w204 there are the following major differences:=left
1. less room than with other models as valvecover/vacuum pump attachment extend far over the top of the sensor towards the firewall. Either you try by feel alone, or remove the vacuum pump to give you a couple more inches of room for your hands.
2. The sensor is attached via a torx screw (T30 confirmed) rather than a torx bolt. Confirm yours first with a boroscope or camera as misleading instructions wasted an hour of time
3. The connector on top of the sensor is a 90 degree right angle with white sliding clip, similar to the tricky new connector to the MAF. The 90 degree appears to be on this model due to the limited clearance per #1 above and another sensor close above it. Most examples on the internet do not have the 90 degree connector.
(The sensor connector is on the right-hand side of the photo above)
Only use a genuine part. Note the part I purchased was updated a few times so I am hoping this one is engineered to last longer.
Last edited by gardenmaster; Jan 2, 2019 at 04:34 PM.
Does your engine have a single or dual air intake? I've seen it located pretty easily on the dual intake models from youtube videos etc, but I can't find much help with the 2013 single air intake models. (i'm referencing the intake because that's the most obvious difference looking at the motor) On my car there is a shield on the back of the motor that was near impossible to remove to access that area.
Does your engine have a single or dual air intake? I've seen it located pretty easily on the dual intake models from youtube videos etc, but I can't find much help with the 2013 single air intake models. (i'm referencing the intake because that's the most obvious difference looking at the motor) On my car there is a shield on the back of the motor that was near impossible to remove to access that area.
HI. I am not an MB expert and don't completely understand your question, but my W204 (2011 C300) has a single intake throttle body/single MAF, with dual air filter inlets on the top cover. If you look at the actual pic I provided earlier in this thread, use a mirror or boroscope to find it first. It is under the vacuum pump, so you must go by feel. Once you feel it, Tie a string or thin metal wire to the connector wire or nearby to guide, about 7 feet of wire so that each time you go back you can easily get your hands in the area again. The metal firewall is very close, I don't think you have to remove it. Hope this helps.
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