08 C350 49k miles. Edge of drive belt shredded. Edge towards front of car. Installed a replacement best quality they Autozone had.
Spun and felt all pulleys. Nothing sharp or edges. After new one was on all pulleys are quiet as mice. Everything looked in alignment while running. I will compare to other cars today visually.
Would there be any reason to order a new tensioner or pulleys considering the miles?
Spun and felt all pulleys. Nothing sharp or edges. After new one was on all pulleys are quiet as mice. Everything looked in alignment while running. I will compare to other cars today visually.
Would there be any reason to order a new tensioner or pulleys considering the miles?
Hi, that smallest pulley, it may be dry and you wont know it, unless you take it off and spin it next to your ear, thats what I found.
I spinned it on engine but could not hear anything, has a small play, but so the new one as well for this pulley.
Replaced all three. When I opened the small one, it was bone dry, would have failed soon.
I spinned it on engine but could not hear anything, has a small play, but so the new one as well for this pulley.
Replaced all three. When I opened the small one, it was bone dry, would have failed soon.
Thanks. Seems silly that these would fail at 50k but I have been searching the forums and it happens. ECS sells a kit with the pulleys, tensioner and belt all OEM for $260 for mine. I guess I will do that and keep the belt I bought as a spare.
Super Member
Keep in mind the car is also 10 years old and stuff can wear out over that length of time if it is original despite the low miles.
Ok that belt didn’t last long. It made it 36 hours.
Ordered OEM kit, tensioner, both pulleys, new bolts and belt. Only could find a complete kit of OEM parts at ECS.
Tensioner according to WIS BA13.25-p-1001-01p says 35nm.
Pulleys BA20-10-p-1004-01u says 35nm initial installation 25nm followup operations.
Do those look right? Since I am using new bolts should I go with 35nm on pulleys?
The alternator spun nicely with nothing sticking out to cut the belt.
The power steering pump the same.
The airconditioning pulley spun fine but has some resistance. Is this ok? I was thinking to remove belt on the E or CLS and see how they spin.
Ordered OEM kit, tensioner, both pulleys, new bolts and belt. Only could find a complete kit of OEM parts at ECS.
Tensioner according to WIS BA13.25-p-1001-01p says 35nm.
Pulleys BA20-10-p-1004-01u says 35nm initial installation 25nm followup operations.
Do those look right? Since I am using new bolts should I go with 35nm on pulleys?
The alternator spun nicely with nothing sticking out to cut the belt.
The power steering pump the same.
The airconditioning pulley spun fine but has some resistance. Is this ok? I was thinking to remove belt on the E or CLS and see how they spin.
Junior Member
Quote:
Yah, I just replaced the original tension bearing, timing belt and water pump on our 1980 FIAT spider with 56,000 miles on it. It didn't fail, but at 38 years old I figured it was time. Oh, and that kit (included a new t-stat) was $125 lol.Originally Posted by Alfadude
Keep in mind the car is also 10 years old and stuff can wear out over that length of time if it is original despite the low miles.
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Mercedes sedans are one of the few on this planet that don't specify a belt replacement interval. Don't ask me why but on mine it still looks new. At the mileage I'm at now my old Audi went through 3 belts. I'm not exaggerating at all btw. Originally Posted by Spider 2000
Yah, I just replaced the original tension bearing, timing belt and water pump on our 1980 FIAT spider with 56,000 miles on it. It didn't fail, but at 38 years old I figured it was time. Oh, and that kit (included a new t-stat) was $125 lol.
So say what you will. For a 10 year old daily driver I presume, you're ahead.
Not sure what to recommend to others but you can save yourself a lot of trouble by replacing the three pulleys and belt on your schedule instead of waiting for failure. My example was 2008 C350.
Yes you can say that about anything but there are many posts of belts shredding at 50k’ish miles. Even at 10 years I find it ridiculous that these would go at 50k miles but whatever. My point is that it is a total pain to shred a belt and get stranded. You end up buying whatever parts you can get your hands on and good luck if you are forced to go to dealer.
It took a lot of time to get the parts but ECS sold a total OEM kit delivered for just over $200. Install was 30min and easy. Just torque the bolts correctly. Running perfectly now.
Yes you can say that about anything but there are many posts of belts shredding at 50k’ish miles. Even at 10 years I find it ridiculous that these would go at 50k miles but whatever. My point is that it is a total pain to shred a belt and get stranded. You end up buying whatever parts you can get your hands on and good luck if you are forced to go to dealer.
It took a lot of time to get the parts but ECS sold a total OEM kit delivered for just over $200. Install was 30min and easy. Just torque the bolts correctly. Running perfectly now.
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