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M276 Check Valve Press In Tool?!

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Old Aug 7, 2024 | 01:31 PM
  #26  
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2014 GLK 350 4 Matic
I get the same result after disconnecting the battery. The car drives fine initially but within a few minutes I noticed the Eco light will go out and it will start running rough at low RPMs. I would assume this is some type of limp mode. On the second start the check engine light will come on after a few minutes of driving and it has the P0021 code.

Do you think this is a sound approach:

Take the intake manifold off and check the timing using the camshaft sensor holes/reluctor wheels. If it is off, I can try moving the drivers intake cam by one tooth. If that makes the timing correct I will put things together and do another test.

If moving the cam doesn't correct the timing or if the timing is already correct, I will assume that the VVT and possible associated components need to be replaced. In that case I will call some shops for estimates. Unfortunately it might be a large percentage of the values of this car (Maybe $12k value for the car).
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Old Aug 7, 2024 | 07:32 PM
  #27  
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Originally Posted by donm1000
I get the same result after disconnecting the battery. The car drives fine initially but within a few minutes I noticed the Eco light will go out and it will start running rough at low RPMs. I would assume this is some type of limp mode. On the second start the check engine light will come on after a few minutes of driving and it has the P0021 code.

Do you think this is a sound approach:

Take the intake manifold off and check the timing using the camshaft sensor holes/reluctor wheels. If it is off, I can try moving the drivers intake cam by one tooth. If that makes the timing correct I will put things together and do another test.

If moving the cam doesn't correct the timing or if the timing is already correct, I will assume that the VVT and possible associated components need to be replaced. In that case I will call some shops for estimates. Unfortunately it might be a large percentage of the values of this car (Maybe $12k value for the car).
That's a very solid plan!
While you're looking at the CPS position you can see and hear VVT gear skipping forward when camshaft forces it to.
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Old Aug 16, 2024 | 08:49 PM
  #28  
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2014 GLK 350 4 Matic
Well, the timing looks good to my eye through the CPS holes. I guess I could swap the sensors and hope the problem moves to another cam, but if it doesn't I will be paying a lot of $$ to a shop in Charlotte.

I've always liked German cars and have owned many VWs until the quality declined, my last Mercedes was a 2002 C230 and it went 150k miles with no issues, seems like Mercedes may be going the way of VW. I also have a 2000 BMW M Roadster but it is old enough to still be very reliable. Might be time to find the wife a Lexus instead of a MB.
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Old Aug 17, 2024 | 02:34 AM
  #29  
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi

magnetized particles


that has got to be steel


nicely aligned contaminants captured by CPS...

This makes me wonder if the engine drain plug is like the rear differential: loaded with sparkles! Missing a premium $10 magnetic plug ?

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Aug 17, 2024 at 02:35 AM.
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Old Aug 19, 2024 | 08:26 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by donm1000
I've always liked German cars. seems like Mercedes may be going the way of VW. Might be time to find the wife a Lexus instead of a MB.
I am in the same club as you. Currently own the C300 in my signature and sadly it'll be my last Benz for now. Going from a late model M272 to an M271, or M274 or M276 seems to be a big let-down in terms of reliability and I just can't accept that from a Benz. I grew up around Benzes as my dad only owned Benzes but yeah these old reliable times seem to be fading away. When my wife needed a new vehicle, we didn't hesitate going with a brand new RAV4 Hybrid. Sure it's not as luxurious as my C300 but it's good enough and reliable enough to earn my money. When it's time to replace my C300, it'll definitely be a Toyota or a Lexus. Oh well, life goes on and we move on. Good luck with the rest of your repair. Wishing you the best.
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Old Aug 19, 2024 | 08:43 AM
  #31  
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2014 GLK 350 4 Matic
Originally Posted by xsever
I am in the same club as you. Currently own the C300 in my signature and sadly it'll be my last Benz for now. Going from a late model M272 to an M271, or M274 or M276 seems to be a big let-down in terms of reliability and I just can't accept that from a Benz. I grew up around Benzes as my dad only owned Benzes but yeah these old reliable times seem to be fading away. When my wife needed a new vehicle, we didn't hesitate going with a brand new RAV4 Hybrid. Sure it's not as luxurious as my C300 but it's good enough and reliable enough to earn my money. When it's time to replace my C300, it'll definitely be a Toyota or a Lexus. Oh well, life goes on and we move on. Good luck with the rest of your repair. Wishing you the best.
We had a VW Passat Wagon and traded it in for the GLK because it needed 2 water pumps, carbon cleanings, and a door lock before 100k miles and now the GLK likely needs a new camshaft and will eventually need all 4 cams or at least cam adjusters. I've had a 2007 Tundra since before the Passat and it just passed 170k miles. During that time it has need 1 water pump, 1 AC compressor (very easy DIY), shocks (DIY), and fluid changes. The GLK replacement will likely be a Lexus/Toyota or a Tesla. I would consider a Tesla because I suspect even newer Toyotas are far less reliable due to the emission/MPG requirements that drive automakers to use direct injection, VVT, and too much plastic and aluminum.

Last edited by donm1000; Aug 19, 2024 at 08:44 AM. Reason: reword
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Old Aug 20, 2024 | 01:39 AM
  #32  
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2012 C300 4MATIC Sport
Originally Posted by donm1000
I suspect even newer Toyotas are far less reliable due to the emission/MPG requirements that drive automakers to use direct injection, VVT, and too much plastic and aluminum.
The comment I can make on this is that the 4-cylinder non-turbo engine in our RAV4 Hybrid, the A25-FKS, is both direct and port injection. Toyota did this to maximize efficiency and avoid carbon build-ups and clean-ups. They've been using this engine in the RAV4 since 2019 and it's been flawless. You can look for the RAV4's equivalent at Lexus.
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Old Aug 21, 2024 | 01:45 PM
  #33  
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2014 GLK 350 4 Matic
Originally Posted by donm1000
We had a VW Passat Wagon and traded it in for the GLK because it needed 2 water pumps, carbon cleanings, and a door lock before 100k miles and now the GLK likely needs a new camshaft and will eventually need all 4 cams or at least cam adjusters. I've had a 2007 Tundra since before the Passat and it just passed 170k miles. During that time it has need 1 water pump, 1 AC compressor (very easy DIY), shocks (DIY), and fluid changes. The GLK replacement will likely be a Lexus/Toyota or a Tesla. I would consider a Tesla because I suspect even newer Toyotas are far less reliable due to the emission/MPG requirements that drive automakers to use direct injection, VVT, and too much plastic and aluminum.
A day before my car was going into the shop I decided to check everything again. I made a truly boneheaded mistake and plugged the cam solenoid connector into the thermostat and vice versa. Corrected that and no more CEL, runs fine.

Embarrassing, but also a huge relief.
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Old Sep 12, 2024 | 04:23 PM
  #34  
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Timing Marks M276

Sorry to tag onto this thread - I was changing the serpentine belt on my C350 with the M276 engine (2012) and thought I'd look for the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley - in particular looking for the 40 and 53 degree marks used to check the timing. I cannot see any marks at all on the pulley. All I can see is the MB part number and that's only just visible.
Anyone else found this issue ?
There are quite a few youtube videos on m276 timing and all the timing marks look very clear and visible.
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Old Sep 12, 2024 | 05:52 PM
  #35  
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Originally Posted by bloxham
Sorry to tag onto this thread - I was changing the serpentine belt on my C350 with the M276 engine (2012) and thought I'd look for the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley - in particular looking for the 40 and 53 degree marks used to check the timing. I cannot see any marks at all on the pulley. All I can see is the MB part number and that's only just visible.
Anyone else found this issue ?
There are quite a few youtube videos on m276 timing and all the timing marks look very clear and visible.
Your crank pulley is missing timing marks.

Have you tried to rotate it 360°, right?

You can replace it, the rubber insert fails anyway.
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Old Sep 13, 2024 | 03:16 AM
  #36  
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Yes I've rotated it several times, no marks that I can see.
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Old Sep 13, 2024 | 09:08 AM
  #37  
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
missing timing marks

Originally Posted by bloxham
Yes I've rotated it several times, no marks that I can see.
you positively identified crank pulley does not have any timing markings.


Couple options:
-A- "If it works, don't mess with it..."

-B- Remove cyl.1 plug to feel piston TDC ie. mark 0°

-C- Replace old pulley with new for the benefit of fresh rubber damper.

++++ PLAN B...
There may be ways to read crank position through ECU datastream

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Sep 13, 2024 at 09:09 AM.
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Old Sep 13, 2024 | 04:29 PM
  #38  
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Thanks - I put cylinder 1 to TDC which is 40 degrees on the crank pulley - then I could just about make out the 40 mark on the pulley - very faint though. That will do for now !
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Old Sep 13, 2024 | 08:33 PM
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
CYL#1 TDC

Originally Posted by bloxham
Thanks - I put cylinder 1 to TDC which is 40 degrees on the crank pulley - then I could just about make out the 40 mark on the pulley - very faint though. That will do for now !
Glad you made progress.

it's a bit strange your Cyl.1 TDC shows 40°...
by definition it should be 0°

Cylinder #1 is the nearest to ALT on passenger side

(try to stick with clockwise rotation only not to upset loose chain guides/tensioners)

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Sep 13, 2024 at 08:39 PM.
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