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Well this sux,
I had the infamous EIS/ESL failure rear it's ugly head. Can't get the windows up, and rain is expected.
Anyone know a way to move the glass up when the ignition switch fails?
Well this sux,
I had the infamous EIS/ESL failure rear it's ugly head. Can't get the windows up, and rain is expected.
Anyone know a way to move the glass up when the ignition switch fails?
So, the car is supposed to close all windows and sunroof when it detects rain. I don't know if this affects it, so you could try pouring a bottle of water down the front windshield sensor and hope it closes.
Otherwise maybe try holding the lock key in front of the driver's side door handle...
So, the car is supposed to close all windows and sunroof when it detects rain. I don't know if this affects it, so you could try pouring a bottle of water down the front windshield sensor and hope it closes.
Otherwise maybe try holding the lock key in front of the driver's side door handle...
Thanks for the quick reply. I'll try the water method, but I think my car is one of the stripper models, and can't detect rain.
I did try and hold the lock button on the key/fob while pointing it at the drivers door handle. It didn't work.
Thanks for the quick reply. I'll try the water method, but I think my car is one of the stripper models, and can't detect rain.
I did try and hold the lock button on the key/fob while pointing it at the drivers door handle. It didn't work.
I was under the impression that all w204 models (at least in the US) had rain sensing wipers, which use that sensor. So if you have those, it should work ideally.
I was under the impression that all w204 models (at least in the US) had rain sensing wipers, which use that sensor. So if you have those, it should work ideally.
Definitely hoping that you're correct. In the past they've never auto-wiped for me, I've always had to turn them on when it rains. I suppose we'll find out with the rain comes, Haha!
Definitely hoping that you're correct. In the past they've never auto-wiped for me, I've always had to turn them on when it rains. I suppose we'll find out with the rain comes, Haha!
You have to turn them on, but the rate of wiping varies depending on the amount of rain.
Did you try the water bottle?
Not all W204's have rain-sensing wipers... In fact, not all have intermittent wipe feature/setting.
Now, to the OP, how did you diagnose your No-Start problem? What lead you to conclude it is EIS/ESL?
I don't think EIS/ESL failure will cause the windows not to work... Think of it this way... Does EIS/ESL failure cause the door locks not to operate like they should?
No! So what would be the logic in locking out power window functionality?
As far as I know, if/when EIS or ESL fails, ECU will lock out the engine start cycle. That is all.
That said, it could be something as simple as a dead battery, or something as complicated as front SAM/rear SAM (don't remember which one controls power windkes and/or starter components)...
Not all W204's have rain-sensing wipers... In fact, not all have intermittent wipe feature/setting.
Now, to the OP, how did you diagnose your No-Start problem? What lead you to conclude it is EIS/ESL?
I don't think EIS/ESL failure will cause the windows not to work... Think of it this way... Does EIS/ESL failure cause the door locks not to operate like they should?
No! So what would be the logic in locking out power window functionality?
As far as I know, if/when EIS or ESL fails, ECU will lock out the engine start cycle. That is all.
That said, it could be something as simple as a dead battery, or something as complicated as front SAM/rear SAM (don't remember which one controls power windkes and/or starter components)...
Thanks for the reply! Hoping it's something simple.
Battery is good, it would not start, even with a jump. The remotes both work the door locks, but neither starts the car.
I was thinking it was the EIS/ESL simply because I don't hear the "zip" sound when I remove, or insert the key, and I get a message on the DIC that just says "Remove the Key"
Mercedes Benz is well known for erratic behavior (including no-crank/no-start) with even a slight voltage drop. I have heard of some strange events even with the battery at 12.0 volts.. Considering it is winter season in most parts of the world, I'd be more inclined to even disconnect the battey and take it to an auto parts store to get it load tested
Originally Posted by Rayvan
I was thinking it was the EIS/ESL simply because I don't hear the "zip" sound when I remove, or insert the key, and I get a message on the DIC that just says "Remove the Key"
The reminder message to "Take the key from ignition" always comes on when engine is off, key is still in tbe ignition and driver door opened.
From the W204 Owners Manual....
You need to get someone with a Mercedes Benz compatible diagnostic tool tp your car to read codes off of ECU. EIS amd ESL failures (and assuming that is what is causing the "no-crank/No-start") are 2 events that do trigger relavent Diagnostic Trouble Codes that will narrow down the culprit to one or two possibilities rather than blindly throwing darts hoping one will hit bullseye!
You can aim your key into the infra red square on the driver's door, press and hold the lock button and all windows should close. You can also do the same while pressing and holding the unlock button and all windows and sunrood will open. As far as the steering lock goes, here at my shop I offer 2 choices..... One, is to replace the steering lock with a genuine reman unit..... Two, I can install an emulator and permanently remove the steering lock. I am sure you can find someone in cali that can offer these services.
I am sorry... while I hate to step on anyone's toes here especially when it comes to making a buck... But your post is part intruiging, part perplexing. So I gotta ask....
Originally Posted by MBENZTECH
One, is to replace the steering lock with a genuine reman unit.....
First of all, how do you know its the Electronic Steering Lock (ESL) and not the Electronic Ignition Switch (EIS)?
Second, a "genuine reman unit"?
That would be "reman-ed" by who?
Because, as far as I know, Mercedes Benz does not sell the internal parts to the ESL... And what most people are claiming is that it is the "cheap chinese made" motor that fails... and replacing that (even before it fails) is (allegedly) prudent enough. But since it isn't coming from MBZ, and who knows where MBZ sources that particular part, reman-ing it with what will likely be a cheap Chinese knock off, then it would cease to become a "genuine reman-ned unit", would it not?
Originally Posted by MBENZTECH
Two, I can install an emulator and permanently remove the steering lock.
^^^This^^^ is the intruiging part.... "Permanently remove the steering lock"... I wonder what an automobile insurance company would have to say about permanently disabling part of the vehicles built in security system!
And, anyone who has paid attention to the provisions of their auto insurance policy, would realize that most insurers does in fact offer a discount off the premium for the vehicle's built-in security system. Well, wouldn't it then be the insured's responsibility to notify the insurer of such a modification?
Lastly, care to let us know how much each of these options cost? And what sort of warranty do you offer?
I had the battery tested, but before I did, I took it out and charged it. I also noticed the negative battery cable was corroded, with blue corrosion growing in the copper. It seemed to work okay, but I replaced it anyway. $140.00. ouch.
At the parts place, the guy tested it three times, and it passed on the first two. The third pass it said something like MARGINAL PASS/NEEDS CHARGE
The tester said "It's okay, and should start the car, but it could be better"
I took it home and recharged it, then re-installed it. Over night it went from 12.54V to 12.24V. Seems weak. I'll probably just replace it. It's probably five years old, or more anyway. Still can't get the windows up. Dang...
That is too big if a drop for "overnight"... And anything below 12.3 volts and you will experience some sort of electrical issue.
At any rate, with the engine off, battery voltage should be somewhere between 12.3v (the absolute minimum) and 12.5v. (the more time since the car ran last, the closer to 12.3v it will be).
With the engine running, at idle, and with minimum accessories (no heater/AC, no radio, no headlights/DRLs) battery voltage should read at about 14.0v to 14.3v
That is too big if a drop for "overnight"... And anything below 12.3 volts and you will experience some sort of electrical issue.
At any rate, with the engine off, battery voltage should be somewhere between 12.3v (the absolute minimum) and 12.5v. (the more time since the car ran last, the closer to 12.3v it will be).
With the engine running, at idle, and with minimum accessories (no heater/AC, no radio, no headlights/DRLs) battery voltage should read at about 14.0v to 14.3v
Thanks. I went ahead and replaced the battery. Still won't start, or allow me to close the windows (batt. reads 12.7V).
Does anyone know what the little device on the NEG battery terminal clamp is for? It's got three terminals and a wire pigtail with two wires runs to it.
Thanks. I went ahead and replaced the battery. Still won't start, or allow me to close the windows (batt. reads 12.7V).
Much better.. The old one's days were numbered.
Originally Posted by Rayvan
Does anyone know what the little device on the NEG battery terminal clamp is for? It's got three terminals and a wire pigtail with two wires runs to it.
You mean this part:
If so, my understanding is that it is a battery voltage managment sensor, I believe one main wire goes to alternator, one goes to tbe brass terminal (over the wheel well) where you are supposed to connect jumper cables and one goes to ECU so the computer can keep track of voltage level (amd for one, display a voltage reading on the dash via the engineering menu....
(It is mot as advanced as what younwill see here, but similar idea: https://youtu.be/Pn6oTl_8SmU)
You mentioned the negative battery was corroded.. and replaced. How far into the cable (the end(s) away from the battery connector) was it corroded and did you use a wire brush to clean up any possible corrosion on the connectors?
Otherwise, nothing comes to mind at the moment except to say I assume you checked fuses early on in your diagnosis process, correct?
Edited to add: the fuses are
#2 #3 Front Power Windows
#39 #41 Rear Power Windows
#4, #6, #7, #19, #23, #24, #25, #27, #32, #42, #46 #75 are all related to.the starting cycle,.one way or another
(also,.I assume you know where the fuse boxes are: the front fuse box is in the engine compartment, opposite corner from where the battery is, the rear one is on right side of rhe trunk/inside of the rear fender, and one is on the side of the dash console, and can only be accessed if the driver door is open)...
When the new battery wouldn't start the car, and all the fuses looke okay, I went ahead and had the car towed to my Indy (Southbay Autohaus), here in San Jose. They replaced the steering lock, and everything just works now, and I've got $800.00 less money today
Thanks everyone for helping to try and sort this thing out!
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