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My water pump cooling pipe is leaking antifreeze.
I"ll be replacing once I get the part.
Any suggestion if anyone has done this before, I've reading online and it seems not that straight forward.
My water pump cooling pipe is leaking antifreeze.
I"ll be replacing once I get the part.
Any suggestion if anyone has done this before, I've reading online and it seems not that straight forward.
@meazz1 Please post your VIN and someone can assist.
Thanks. Is the procedure not self-evident? WIS isn't coming up with the obvious procedure. It is likely a secondary step to a larger procedure. T/stat and water pump removal procedures don't mention the pipe you are asking about. While difficult, is it obvious to the average person with skills in the art?
The cylinder head removal procedure attached simply says "remove it".
Thanks. Is the procedure not self-evident? WIS isn't coming up with the obvious procedure. It is likely a secondary step to a larger procedure. T/stat and water pump removal procedures don't mention the pipe you are asking about. While difficult, is it obvious to the average person with skills in the art?
The cylinder head removal procedure attached simply says "remove it".
Thanks for attachment.
The job looks very straight forward, than I just had a quick glance at the pipe layout.
I will get to it after getting the parts.
After the transmission fluid job few months ago, it does not look that involved.
[QUOTE=meazz1;8157472]My water pump cooling pipe is leaking antifreeze.
I"ll be replacing once I get the part.
Any suggestion if anyone has done this before, I've reading online and it seems not that straight forward.
I didn’t have too much issue from it on my DIY. The pipes are plastic and fragile so don’t force them. They will slip right into place when all attached items are removed.
My advice is be careful as you remove the turbo return tube (large plastic pipe across front of engine). There are several items that connect to it and will break off if not removed first. This pipe gets brittle with age and heat. You will have no issues with the new part though. Just a few bolts lean the power steering reservoir out and it will slip right behind it.Again, DONT FORCE IT or you will replace the replacement! LOL Just a slight amount of light oil on the turbo pipe and it will slide back into place and you’re done.
My water pump cooling pipe is leaking antifreeze.
I"ll be replacing once I get the part.
Any suggestion if anyone has done this before, I've reading online and it seems not that straight forward.
I didn’t have too much issue from it on my DIY. The pipes are plastic and fragile so don’t force them. They will slip right into place when all attached items are removed.
My advice is be careful as you remove the turbo return tube (large plastic pipe across front of engine). There are several items that connect to it and will break off if not removed first. This pipe gets brittle with age and heat. You will have no issues with the new part though. Just a few bolts lean the power steering reservoir out and it will slip right behind it.Again, DONT FORCE IT or you will replace the replacement! LOL Just a slight amount of light oil on the turbo pipe and it will slide back into place and you’re done.
Good luck!
Thanks for the heads up.
I may wanna have an extra turbo return hose on hand, lol!!
Thanks for the heads up.
I may wanna have an extra turbo return hose on hand, lol!!
I replaced these pipes on my 2013 C250 last year. Not too difficult and I completed the task in about an hour. All the work is on the passenger’s side and you don’t have to disturb the large hose to the turbo. Just take your time and be careful. The biggest challenge was maneuvering the new pipes into place. You might need a flex shaft on your ratchet or screwdriver to access some of the Torx bolts that hold the pipes and the power steering reservoir in place.
I replaced these pipes on my 2013 C250 last year. Not too difficult and I completed the task in about an hour. All the work is on the passenger’s side and you don’t have to disturb the large hose to the turbo. Just take your time and be careful. The biggest challenge was maneuvering the new pipes into place. You might need a flex shaft on your ratchet or screwdriver to access some of the Torx bolts that hold the pipes and the power steering reservoir in place.
I replaced these pipes on my 2013 C250 last year. Not too difficult and I completed the task in about an hour. All the work is on the passenger’s side and you don’t have to disturb the large hose to the turbo. Just take your time and be careful. The biggest challenge was maneuvering the new pipes into place. You might need a flex shaft on your ratchet or screwdriver to access some of the Torx bolts that hold the pipes and the power steering reservoir in place.
Good job on not having to remove the turbo tube. You are correct, it does NOT have to be removed. I do recommend it though if you have problems with the rubber boot between it and the upper line of the pair. I’m probably overly cautious because I broke one trying to get a stubborn rubber boot off that was stuck (age and heat). Just a weird way of mine. LOL I felt it gave a little more room to work on connecting the coolant line back to it and didn’t have such a time maneuvering the new pipes in place. They just seemed to go right in without effort for the few times I’ve done it.
Full disclosure- I am not a Mercedes certified mechanic!!
Good job on not having to remove the turbo tube. You are correct, it does NOT have to be removed. I do recommend it though if you have problems with the rubber boot between it and the upper line of the pair. I’m probably overly cautious because I broke one trying to get a stubborn rubber boot off that was stuck (age and heat). Just a weird way of mine. LOL I felt it gave a little more room to work on connecting the coolant line back to it and didn’t have such a time maneuvering the new pipes in place. They just seemed to go right in without effort for the few times I’ve done it.
Full disclosure- I am not a Mercedes certified mechanic!!
I'm glad there is always more than one way to complete the job. I found it easier to pry off the rubber hose than to go to the trouble of disconnecting the turbo hose, especially where it attaches to the turbo intake. It was a little stubborn and did take some time as you said because of age and heat. Full disclosure; I did make a few contributions to the swear jar. But, nothing damaged thankfully and I didn't have to buy any additional parts that I had not initially intended to purchase for the job (this time!). Of course not two months after replacing the coolant hoses and refilling with coolant, I had to replace the thermostat. With the facelift thermostat, definitely more "fun" than the hoses but that's another story.
I installed the water pipes and no more "coolant level" warning and not loosing any coolant.
But, last night the check engine light popped up.
It's
P029921 - indicates that the Turbo or Supercharger "A" has excessively low output.
P006800 - The position of the throttle valve is impossible
I had to removed the valve in the photo to replace the water line and I'm thinking that the culprit. I don't see any other leaks, all the hoses and connectors look right.
What is the part called I circled in the photo?
I installed the water pipes and no more "coolant level" warning and not loosing any coolant.
But, last night the check engine light popped up.
It's
P029921 - indicates that the Turbo or Supercharger "A" has excessively low output.
P006800 - The position of the throttle valve is impossible
I had to removed the valve in the photo to replace the water line and I'm thinking that the culprit. I don't see any other leaks, all the hoses and connectors look right.
What is the part called I circled in the photo?
not sure of the proper name. Maybe someone will chime in. Were you able to replace like alynch told us? Sounds like a leak to me. Check to see if the intake pipe cracked where those hoses connect on top there are no loose/improper seated fittings. If you took the large intake hose off double check the electrical connections, especially the one under the power steering reservoir down by turbo.
Ok, got to the bottom of the error code.
I found the cracked hose, it's part of the intake. I went to the dealer during my lunch they only sell the entire piece which is $415.00.
So, little bit of googling and lots of solutions.
There were few posts regarding this in W204 thread also.
Here's my photo and few links.
I ordered the mini pipe from amazon, until then it will be electric tape route!!
I believe you found the issue! Tape will keep you running for a few days until you get the part in. I have replaced mine recently from Amazon for $50.00. You can search MBparts.com and get the whole intake for around $210.00, pointless to me if you don’t need the whole thing though. Good detective work. Now if you can just locate your scanner to reset that dang check engine light! LOL
I'm about to have to replace a271-200-2452. When doing this job do you need to empty the coolant? Or will the lines be empty after I let the car cool down and sit for a while? Thanks!
I'm about to have to replace a271-200-2452. When doing this job do you need to empty the coolant? Or will the lines be empty after I let the car cool down and sit for a while? Thanks!
No, you don't have to drain the coolant. You will lose some coolant when you swap out the part but just top up the level when you are finished.
Hi everyone,
I have the same issue and have coolant leaking from the water pipe. I have ordered the replacement part and have disconnected everything however I’m having difficulties disconnecting one piece. The upper pipe at the front where it gets connected to the rubber hoes. There seems to be a flat clamp that looks like a ring and I’m not sure how to get it off. In some videos people are cutting it using a rotary tool. Any suggestions? I’m in the middle of the job right now. I also attach a picture with a circle around the point I can not disconnect. Thank you
Have you removed the metal band? Maybe that's where a Dremel comes in. It looks like you could use a hose clamp to re-attach the new hose.
I have not removed the metal band yet. I was hoping there’s trick to disconnect that piece without having to use a dremel and a new hoes clamp.
I have ordered a dremel and a clamp, arriving today, so I will use them if I have to and reassemble everything today. But hopefully someone here can suggest a different way
Hi everyone,
I have the same issue and have coolant leaking from the water pipe. I have ordered the replacement part and have disconnected everything however I’m having difficulties disconnecting one piece. The upper pipe at the front where it gets connected to the rubber hoes. There seems to be a flat clamp that looks like a ring and I’m not sure how to get it off. In some videos people are cutting it using a rotary tool. Any suggestions? I’m in the middle of the job right now. I also attach a picture with a circle around the point I can not disconnect. Thank you
Scroll down to post #11. You can leave the metal clamp in place and just remove the rubber hose where it attaches to the air intake pipe.
Scroll down to post #11. You can leave the metal clamp in place and just remove the rubber hose where it attaches to the air intake pipe.
so disconnect rubber hose from the air intake side and then it should be easier to pull it out and have the upper coolant line disconnected without removing the metal clamp?
09-15-2020, 07:42 AM
