Do I have to change the transmission filter when I drain the fluid on my 2012 c250 turbo. Also I could not find a video showing the draining and refilling of the oil only.
The car has 115k miles
I have had the car for less than a year now. I don’t know whether the symptoms The car is having are related to transmission issues or turbo issues.
i can feel the transmission shifting smoothly for the first few gears and can not feel it thereafter. At higher speed on the highway, I feel and hear the engine getting loud while my foot on the gas and also when I take my foot off the gas get louder. The RPM stays under 2500 at 65miles. It sound like the engine gets loud when not shifting and since I have not owned a turbo car before, I am not sure if this loud noise coming from the turbo or or shifting at higher speed
ps : I have a code for the turbo is under performing p0299

 

Fix the code first then go from there.

Get the vehicle up to date on all maintenance. Oil and filters for engine and transmission. WIS calls for transmission filter replacement.

 

Find a reliable certified MB Technician that can follow the W.I.S. for a transmission service event wherein:

1. Pan Removal / Fluid drain from pan sump
2. Remove / Replace Filter
3. Pan cleaning / New Gasket Install
4. Reinstall PAN / Fluid Fill

Not all technicans are willing to remove the torque converter plug............. so you aren't really doing a fluid changeout..............many dealerships state they do when they DON'T, then charge you for a full fluid capcity exchange versus 5 to 6 litres with pan removal alone.
HERE IS HOW VERY SIMPLY / EASILY DO A 99.9999% + Fluid Change without an exchange machine.

1. Find the return line from the cooler / or the transmission.
2. Open this return line and place a clear hose over the fitting.
3. Have 2nd person start the vehicle and run the vehicle until the clear line shows fluid gaps (WHILE SHIFTING THROUGH THE GEARS (R-N-7-6-5-4-3-2-1) using the shift knob - takes 30 40 seconds - WITH FOOT ON BRAKE WHILE UP ON THE LIFT
4. SHUT OFF the vehicle
5. REFILL the Transmission pan Sump AGAIN
6. REPEAT THE PROCESS AGAIN (STEP 3) UNTIL ALL CLEAN NEW FLUID IS FLOWING THROUGH THE CLEAR HOSE INTO DRAIN PAN
7. REINSTALL THE COOLER /TRANSMISSION RETURN LINE - ENSURING CLEAN CONNECTION & PROPERLY RETIGHTENED
8. THEN - Follow the W.I.S for proper refill level checks with Digital Temp Gauge (Fluke is a nice unit for accurate readings)
9. Drive your vehjicle wiith confidence you have actually done a complete fluid exxchange- WITHOUT REMOVING THE TORQUE CONVERTER PLUG - WITHOUT THE NEED FOR EXCHANGE MACHINE.

The prcoess does what many technicians overlook, you are getting the clutch pack wear particuates out of the system without having a torque converter plug possible leaking, and the need for higher service event bill due to the use of
an exchange machine, and the detergents that really do not work n terms of removing the clutch pack particulates.

Your transmission is a hydraulic system, closed loop system if you will, and this process, while not in the W.I.S. does work without harming your transmission....
BUT IT DOES REQUIRE 2 PEOPLE to perform this exchange as stated.

Try it it really works.
If your technican doesn't like the rpcoess because the W.I.S doesn't state it, tell him your vehcile will love it.
You will feel the difference when out on the road driving.

The process described take between 7 - 10 minutes extra, for fluid 99.999% + fluid change, in addtion to the time estimate from the W.I.S Sheets.
Watch the expression from the technician when shifting through the gears as he watches the dark fluid flow into the drain pan......................
When you see this he will realize what a full complete fluid change actually is.

For the readers, I am NOT a certified technican, but this process has worked well for me for 37 + years without any issues. AGAIN in closing, it takes 2 PEOPLE to DO THIS FULL FLUID CHANGEOUT SAFELY & QUICKLY.