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Yeah your right, that's a lot of money saved. I'm just scared that I'm going to mess something up if I do it, and cause even more money to be spent. Although it looks pretty straightforward.
It's easier than it may seem at first. Here is an excellent video of the steps involved:
If this is your first maintenance job on the car you will have a feeling of accomplishment when you turn the key and all your erratic idling is solved (hopefully)
I think you said you want to get into maintenance and repairs yourself. This would be a good place to get your feet wet. There are videos this on YouTube.
They should not charge you a diagnosis charge because they already changed the MAP sensor.
So I said F it, just do it. I know it's overpriced (and I'm not sure why they "allege" that they can only get it from MB at $509 when I can get it from MB at $209) but I really want everything to be professionally done until it's up to the regular operating performance.
Once it's up to par I'm gonna purchase a good bi-directional diagnosis tool (done quite a bit or research and still have no clue which one I should buy) and do as much as possible on my own from here on out. Also, I quite literally can't afford another major job after this lol (at least not for a couple of months).
I'll post an update once I get the car back. Fingers crossed that it returns to me in optimal running condition, considering there's not much else wrong with it. Apparently, the part comes in from CA on Friday morning and they can get it done by close same day.
Which engine do you have? I have a 2013 C250 and I replaced the valve cover and the spark plug gaskets twice already.
I did not see the crankcase vent valve there. It's located here in my car, I believe it's burred under the intake manifold.
The part # is 271-018-02-00-64. It's #10 in the diagram.
Hmmm. I believe I have the M271 engine.. Now you have me worried that they are just lying to me. You're saying that the PCV valve isn't even on the valve cover in the first place, well then there would be no reason for this $1000 repair job I just OK'd.
Hmmm. I believe I have the M271 engine.. Now you have me worried that they are just lying to me. You're saying that the PCV valve isn't even on the valve cover in the first place, well then there would be no reason for this $1000 repair job I just OK'd.
Sometimes the parts diagrams can be confusing. I seem to remember you have a 2012 or 2013 C250. The part mentioned does not fit either of these vehicles, according to the site where I normally purchase MB parts. The PCV function is incorporated into the design of the cylinder head cover on the C250s.
alynch
Lol, I had the same confusion too.
I called up the parts store where I got the part from after searching from different angles into my engine bay to see where it goes.
I asked to confirm if this was the right one for my car. She emailed the diagram which shows my VIN on this screenshot.
That's when I asked here in the forum if anyone knew where it's located.
I am taking off the intake manifold very soon to replace the entire oil filter housing, I will know if the vent is hidden there somewhere.
alynch
Lol, I had the same confusion too.
I called up the parts store where I got the part from after searching from different angles into my engine bay to see where it goes.
I asked to confirm if this was the right one for my car. She emailed the diagram which shows my VIN on this screenshot.
That's when I asked here in the forum if anyone knew where it's located.
I am taking off the intake manifold very soon to replace the entire oil filter housing, I will know if the vent is hidden there somewhere.
I plan to replace the oil filter housing as well in the next couple weeks so we’ll both be able to physically touch the valve lol! I’m going to try and replace the housing from the bottom without removing the air intake. It looks tight but possible and I found a posting on I think the 212 forum with the M271 engine where someone was successful.
@alynch
I also noticed that I could access the housing from below but I was afraid that it would be a straggle to get the clamp off the oil line due to such tight space.
A shop replaced the gasket only few months ago but that did not stop the leak. So, the suggested that we replaced the entire housing, but I lost confidence on him and will do the work myself.
I also asked MBENZTECH, who is a member and a frequent to this forum has been doing this for 17 yrs, old me that the intake manifold needs to come out.
Another reason I want to remove the intake manifold cause I want to change the coolant line as well. MBENZTECH has also suggested I do that while doing the oil filter housing.
Hmmm. I believe I have the M271 engine.. Now you have me worried that they are just lying to me. You're saying that the PCV valve isn't even on the valve cover in the first place, well then there would be no reason for this $1000 repair job I just OK'd.
That’s unsettling, to say the least. I have never replaced it, so I don’t have first hand info. But when I search PCV valve for my 2013, it comes back with the valve cover.
You could just tell your service advisor that you want to see the part that they replaced and have them explain how it works because it’s so different from what you’re familiar with. For $1000+ they should give you that piece of mind.
Well, it looks like you got a great deal for a car would have paid $12K without all the problems. Anyways, did the dealer not give you a warranty or guarantee in writing or did you purchase the car AS-IS?
The car sounds like the previous owners didn't take very good car of the car by staying up on the maintenance because maybe the cost to do such maintenance. Having to change the TCU because of a possible MAF issue are not related and in fact after looking at the coded, I would tell that you had TCU module relate issue. What I would do next before you do anything else is to test the MAF sensor for continuity. The MAF sensor that came with the car, vs the non OEM one you bought. You can look up how to do this in Youtube. what you are looking for is the voltage from the ECU and to send the signal.
Next if you are okay with changing spark plugs, you can do what is called a rough idle test where you are trying to see which cycling has a bad sparkplug of coil. Now, I know you are not having a miss fire but for me when ever I purchase a used car, I change the spark plugs because if the dealer didn't say they did it, you can to check them to make sure they are gapped correctly and also they have been changed.
If you are good at doing things on your own, I have found the MBII has been very helpful to do live testing of your car or spend the money and get one that is mentioned above.
I got my car back today finally. I was worried they didn't have a handle on it (the repair job) by the way the service advisor was responding to me (we were communicating via text). He kept saying things like "we ran into another issue", and "my service manager and my mechanic are trying their very hardest." Not the most confidence-inspiring verbiage...
When I got there we talked and he said the "adaptations" gave them the most trouble, and everything else went very smoothly He said they've checked everything and cleared all the codes and everything seems to be in (or close to) optimal running condition. I also asked to keep the old valve cover, so there's that. Anyway, after an $1150 Apple Pay tap and my signature, he hands me the keys and I walk out and drive off. So far I've only driven it home (about 5 miles) but it does seem to be running like a new Mercedes now. I am not making any determination about the outcome of this repair job yet. It's still to soon to be sure in my opinion.
I've noticed that the jerkiness during upshifts 1>2 and 2>3 is completely gone (so far). I did not expect them to do anything about the "adaptations" for the TCU, but I guess they did.
I could say more about it all but I'm doing to wait. I will post a second update later, that may be more conclusive.
Thank you all for all of your advice and help. I'm sure this is not the last of this thread, as I already have the next maintenance matter in mind.
Now that the car is where it should be mechanically, I just want a few mods for it. Just these and nothing more:
-5% back tint, 10% front
-Powder coat stock wheels glossy black
-Projector Headlights w/ 10000k HID
What about the 10,000k headlights? Here on TX safety inspection they’re issuing a fault with 90 days to remedy on any headlights that don’t look “white.”
I've had two other cars with 10,000k HID's and was never pulled over for it. The hard part is going to be finding a pair of 2012 C250 projector headlights (AFS?)
I drove to the store today. When I turned the car on the engine turned over regularly and it settled into its 800 RPM idle zone. I just sat there and watched it idle intently for about 4 minutes. It was more or less idling optimally (few bumps (misfires?) here or there). I'm there for about 2 hours. As I turn the car on to leave it started to do the sputtering thing (much more mildly than before) It went away as soon as I pressed the accelerator.
The engine is running smoother for sure. You can tell something was fixed. It drives very nicely and accelerates very smoothly. But there is still something going on. I will send 2 LTC to anybody who can figure out exactly what is causing the sputtering lol. I'm serious, figuring out what is causing this issue is more important to me than actually fixing it at this point.
If anybody has any advise it is always greatly appreciated.
Oh btw. There are 4 states that are doing this digital license plate thing. I ordered one and it's gonna be sick. I still haven't received my license plate from when I bought the car about 2 months ago, there's no way it can still be in transit. Anyway it doesn't matter because I'm getting this cool digital one. https://shop.reviver.com/rplate-pro
It's kinda expensive, but after everything I've gone through the past 2 months, it seems like pocket change.
I have no idea what they did They didn't elaborate, just said the had some adaptations that were giving them trouble but then they got it and everything "is good"
id definitely ask what they meant and to explain it to you so that in the future if you go into a different shop, you can inform them of such "adaptations" so that they'd take that into consideration - as for the sputtering, it may be worth driving around for a few hundred miles for things to settle - may help the sputtering - my car idles at 800 when its in P too
I had the same question, what work was done on the car? Does the invoice show anything? I was curious to know more about adaptation, did it just mask the issue or it was a needed fix?
I'm in the Valley.. what dealer did you purchase your car from?
I bought my 2010 C300 a few years back with 145-150k miles on it, but I had a carfax on it and it was pretty much serviced at Mercedes it's entire life and I have print outs of all service records (after purchasing the car though). But I did comb through the carfax to see it had regular and routine maintenance.
My neighbor picked up a 2012 C250 with I think 130k miles for 12K sometime last year, as far as I know he hasn't had any issues on his ride. I think it got it from a private seller.
I've dealt with Gilbert Mercedes a few times. Once with a call to parts for a replacement key fob and once in person with a service person. The call quoted me about $200, which the used car dealer said they could get me one for $180 and I said I'll just get it on my own since that price didn't seem to bad. The service person gave me a range from $200-$500 but couldn't get me an exact because the person who deals with new keys/fobs wasn't in. I've e-mailed them a handful of times to get a quote and no response. I was only at the Gilbert Mercedes to ask for print out of the service records a little after I bought the car, that's when I asked about the replacement key fob. But they referred me to Chandler since all the work was done there and Chandler printed it everything without issue.
I fortunately haven't had any major issues to bring it to a German car specialist, but I have been kind of roaming the internet trying to find a good place for when I do need one.
It was a tiny dealership called "Discount Auto". on Broadway and Country Club. The repair shop I brought it to is called iAutohaus on Broadway and McClintock. I strongly recommend them. They are honest and provide a fair price in my opinion.
My car is still doing the sputtering. When I pull up to a read light (or just have the cars idling in drive for any reason) it takes about 20 seconds for the sputtering to start, but then it get progressively worse until it's eventually shaking the whole car (until I start moving again). It's doing it about 60% of the time.
The first person to correctly diagnose this problem I will send you $200. The stipulations are that it has to be exactly what you said it was, and I have to drive it for 5 days after the repair to ensure it's actually fixed.
03-07-2023, 05:07 PM
