I went under it yesterday to remove the plastic cover just to triple check to see which pan is installed. Drove the front end on my wooden ramps and its a tight fit, think if i have the rear also on ramps it's doable. For a little more comfort room I may then jack it up a bit and stick jack stands under. I noticed a bracket of some sort i may have to remove to access the forward edge of the pan. Also some type of fluid leaking at the torque converter access area.


Def the pre-2010 pan with small dimples. Bracket of some kind covering drivers side bolt.


Fluid stain. Not enough to be dripping, nothing on top side of the plastic undertray.

 

Tim, in June of 2010 they changed the pan from the one with the round dimples to one with oval dimples. Can't tell from your pictures which you have. Mine has the newer pan with the dimples and green overflow tube (code A89) , older ones had the round dimples and white overflow tube. The older ones require ATF 134 red fluid, newer ones use ATF 134FE, blue fluid with a green overflow tube. I made the mistake after LONG conversations with Mobil, Castrol and Valvoline that the multi vehicle fluid would work. The car shifted like cr*p with the Valvoline. Drained the torque convertor and trans sump pan and lines and refilled with Shell ATF 134FE blue and it now shifts like new. Just make sure you follow the temp. guidelines for a non A89 car when you refill it and correct torque specs on the bolts. Good luck

 

Thats why I went under the car to visually see which pan I have in there. The delievery date for my car is Dec 03, 2009 so well before the 722.9+ came out. I was confused and thought the maintenance procedures were saying that if the pre-2010 pans are ever removed for whatever reason then to replace with the post-2010 pans, but now i think that is not correct. It is saying that if the original style 722.9 pan is installed then to replace it with the revised 722.9 pan. I guess the original pans did not have the slant on one end and they had the black overflow tubes. The revised pre-2010 pans have the slanted end and have the white overflow tubes. I think FCP was confusing me even more with there article on the "upgrade" pan where they switch out the 722.9 pan with the 722.9+ pan, which is an upgrade I guess due to holding more fluid but not required. I could be totally wrong, but then again reading the review from Martin on the FCP website under the pan upgrade kit they sell he even mentioned how he went to the Mercedes dealer and they installed the 722.9 filter, which tells me the Mercedes dealers arent swapping pans when they service the trans.


Says right here if the pan has no bias and has the black overflow pipe to replace with pan with bias and white overflow pipe.

The pan that is currently installed is the "revised" 722.9 pan ill call it. has the 4 small round dimples and bias on one end. cant see the overflow pipe yet. I was also wondering why they still have these 722.9 small dimpled pans for sale IF Mercedes required you to install the post-2010 722.9+ pan?

Side note those WIS documents confuse the heck out of me.

I went with the Shell ATF 134 for no specific reason other than it was single bottles for a good price. Says its MB 236.14 which is what my trans should use. Figured if i dont use it all and have some unopened bottles i can always sell it for a few bucks on ebay and get some money back. My list of parts is adding up quickly.

I recently picked up a Foxwell NT530 scanner which shows trans temp so im excited about having that to use. I do have an IR thermometer but ive read using that on the pan is inaccurate, fluid will be hotter than the pan. I still have to pick up a 1/4 torque wrench for the bolts.

 

You’re good with the Shell ATF134. I used it on all my 722.6 & 722.9 (not 722.9+) transmissions. It’s downward compatible with most older BeVo fluids and many Chrysler transmissions, too. So there’s plenty demand for it. I sold a case that I didn’t need any more on Craig’s List in about a day for a nice profit.

 

Another viewpoint. A transmission service is so infrequent, why not just use the official MB fluid? One less item to worry about. On my other German money pit, you HAVE to use the official unicorn tears fluid for the transmission fluid or suffer the consequences; there is no alternative. Some have tried then ended up repeating the process with the real fluid.

 

The upgraded pan was always an option and not required. But if you wanted to use the improved filter, you needed the deeper pan.

 

Shell ATF134 is on BeVo Sheet 236.14 approval list. If you already have it, you can use it.
It's not a generic ATF. It just meets the specs for a lot of transmissions not using low viscosity friction modified fluids.

 

I 100% see your point and kind of agree. If Mercedes did not list the Shell ATF 134 or any of the other many MB 236.14 approved fluids then I would use the Mercedes brand. But since they are acknowledging that Shell is ok to use in a Mercedes trans and I can save around $160 then... Also when I search around for Shell ATF 134 most searches say "for Mercedes" and not "do not use in Mercedes your trans will fall out". Same with motor oil, Ive been using the Mobil1 0W40 and not Mercedes branded oil without issue. Mercedes gets there trans fluid from somewhere, i just cant pin point where. But things like thermostats are easy, they are stamped Wahler right on it, same with the belt tensioner I recently replaced thats stamped Gates right on it, I saved ALOT of money by just buying those brands without the Mercedes boxing. Also brake pads, the Mercedes branded rear pads are stamped ATE right on them so I replaced with ATE which were much cheaper.

 

Makes sense. I also try to buy OE or OEM parts where possible. Meyle, ATE, TRW, Lemforder, Febi, Wahler. My C250 has ATE brake pads and a brake booster as well as a Wahler thermostat. The Boxster has Meyle control arms and TRW drop links. The Boxster transmission fluid is $35.99 per quart. Fortunately, it only needs 3 quarts (six-speed). It's manufactured by Shell and is available in quarts from Porsche or a 55-gallon drum from Shell. Although tempting, the 55-gallon drum was a little too much for my piggy bank. [img]images/icons/icon10.gif[/img]

 

I wonder if I am comprehending the WIS documents correctly. From my understanding since I'm doing a complete drain and refill for the 722.964 transmission and torque converter it's saying to (basically):

I broke it down in 2 steps, step 1 is removal, step 2 is install.




- In Step 2 am I running the car in Neutral on the 1st start up, pumping in 1st round of fluid? Im assuming they want the car in Neutral at first so the engine can be turned over by hand to locate torque converter drain plug. I cant find any mention of taking the car back out of Neutral until Step 2d.

- Am I correct in that I fill the transmission twice, the initial fill which should be around 6 liters and then after running the car I fill another 4 liters? I say around 6 liters initially because I have that CTA adapter that should push out additional fluid.

Im still trying to track down replacement parts for the rusted nuts and bolts of the exhaust hangers i have to remove to access the torque converter cover. The specific parts are kinda expensive, so thinking of just using 5/16 stainless nuts and bolts.





Over $38 just to replace the rusted nuts and base plates. Crazy.

 

Stainless definitely looks better here. If that’s M8 fasteners then 5/16 would be closest. If they are M10 then 3/8 would be closer.

 

Yes, the car in neutral to allow engine rotation to access the torque converter drain plug. I put the car back in park after draining the torque converter. I measured around 8 quarts of old fluid. I completed the first fill (six quarts), started the engine, moved through the gears three or four times, waited until the temperature reached 45C, and checked the level. In my case, the level was low so I shut off the engine and added two quarts. Started the engine again, shifted through P-R-N-D several times, then removed the transmission drain plug. Level was still a little low so I stopped the engine and added another 0.5 quart. Repeated the start, shift through the gears, and remove the drain plug. Initial rapid flow quickly reduced to contain dribble and I reinstalled the drain plug. I have the 722.9+ in a C250 so the actual quantities may be different but the process is similar.

 

I have some more useless information, but i find it very interesting. I received the Filtran brand transmission filter. I bought this specific filter because from my research I noticed the Mercedes branded filters have Filtran stamped on them, they actually have IBS Filtran. From my research Filtran is a US based company and have expanded globally, the branch in Germany is the IBS Filtran.



Later they moved into China.



From photos the Mercedes "IBS Filtran" filter is made in Germany.



Note the stamping 2-1028-300 on the filter.

Heres the filter I recently received.







Looks like every other transmission filter I come across for this part#, Mercedes, Febi, Elring etc. Some have slightly different molding lines left if youre being picky.

Made in China obviously stands out to me. I noticed the patent# 8038877 so searched a little.

Came up with:



Patent assigned by IBS Filtran, the branch in Germany.



The patent dates are 2007, 2011. I wonder if this has something to do with the "CombiMedia"? Upgraded filter?


Sketch included with the patent.

So i searched the number that is found on the Mercedes brand filter, 2-1028-300, and it brought me back to the Filtran webpage under patent information.




Appears Number 2-1028-300 is patent# 8038877.

The point of all this is it appears they are the same filters. I was worried the Made In China filter may be substandard. But then again I have also seen a few Mercedes branded parts actually be stamped made in China, and Mexico for that matter. Goes against the Mercedes German car only uses German made parts. I found this info interesting. The Filtran website is interesting about the companies history if youre into that stuff and learning.

 

Excellent. I'm thinking they say only 6 liters at initial fill because thats all that will really fit until the car is running and fluid starts flowing where it needs to go.

I was a little confused in the AR27.00-P-0270SYZ step 8 that says "On transmissions which have been repaired the quantity of transmission oil drained + 0.5 liters should be poured in.". Guess they mean that literally, "on transmissions" and not total fluid drained or transmission AND torque converter.

 

Yes, I think you're right. You can only push fluid into the pan, which probably holds six quarts. Once the engine is running and you shift through the gears, the transmission pump fills the empty torque converter with (in my case) about two quarts of fluid from the pan. Looking for the constant dribble is a good way to determine the correct level since you can't always measure EXACTLY what drained as there is fluid in the old filter and the constant drips from the transmission itself when the pan is removed.

 

I’ve never seen a Filtran filter that rough. Where did you buy it again? I almost think it’s counterfeit.

 

I bought it from IDParts.com. I highly doubt they are selling counterfeit parts. They appear to be geared towards diesel vehicles but some parts are the same between GLK, GL and C300. They are located a few miles away from me so im able to do free pickup and in stock orders are usually ready by the time I drive there.

 

I never looked reviews of IDParts up before but seems positive from a quick search.

https://www.reddit.com/r/tdi/comment...arts_recently/

 

I recently had a transmission service done on my 2014 C350 by the Mercedes dealership. I had already purchased all the parts from FCP, which included the Pentosin ATF134FE, and was able to provide the parts and pay only for labor. The technician said the Pentosin is what they use. Because I have changed the transmission fluid previously on the car and on my SL500, I was happy to pay $250 (which included a $50 coupon) to have the dealer do it.

The job is not hard, just time-consuming as I never want to rush through it. Plus, I have all the correct tools to do the job and a lift in my garage. Depending on my mood at the time, I may or may not do it myself the next time, which should be several years from now. The thing is, I'll be getting long in the tooth by then, so who knows?

 

With regard to the torque converter, some do not have a drain plug (e.g., my 2004 SL500) and some do. On the C350 it has a drain plug, but it's kinda hard to get too and reinstalling it can be a challenge. Can't remember if it is torx or hex, but have a good set of wrenches with a ball end as you will have to go in at an angle.

 

A lift in your garage? What was your address again lol!

 

I just enjoy working on things, fixing things, cleaning things, learning etc. I also prefer to do it myself so i know its done right. The only time i had someone else work on this current car was to have a tpms replaced, took it down to the street thinking I would support local businesses and I couldnt even get the lug nuts off that wheel the following week when i went to replace sway bar links, they were on so tight I had to use a 3' piece of pipe over my breaker bar to loosen 3 out of the 5. Crazy. I have a 1/2 torque wrench in my trunk i specifically use for my lug nuts so i know they are always at 98 ft lbs. After that nightmare i taught myself how to swap out tpms after watching videos on youtube, basically use a floor jack to push up on the tire with a 6' length 2x4 wedged up to the basement rafter pushing down on the tire. The old sensors had slow leaks so i bought some mercedes sensors being sold as like-new take offs on ebay for like $14 each. I figured if one senor was dead the rest will shortly follow being a 2010.

I have to be in the right mood to work on the car, and with the transmission its not time sensitive so i can wait for a day i feel up to it. I tend to get sidetracked, start working on one thing then then notice something else, usually its cleaning, I cant stop cleaning things. I watch videos of people doing repairs and there engine bay is filthy, I cant stand it i would want to clean the entire thing. I wash my lawn mower and weed wacker when im done using them, dirty things bug me. And the 1st time always takes the longest, when i replaced a front strut due to a broken spring it took me all day but i was also taking my time, ended up realizing it was the wrong strut so had to order different ones and do it all over again a week later and that took me no time at all they were out and back in within an hour. Story with that is i found a complete used strut on ebay listed as for the sport, even the vin lookup showed it had the sports suspension but when i got it I noticed 3 red dots on the spring indicating the regular or luxury spring, sure enough after I was done and lowered the car it was a few MM higher on that side. Side by side the struts are different heights by 1/2-3/4". Also same with the rear springs, the originals looked all rusted at the bottom so was paranoid about them breaking like the front spring so bought a used set dirt cheap, they look almost new from cali salvage yard. They came with 13mm rubber top shims so i installed those, but what was in there was the 9mm shims and for some reason i was thinking the previous owner must have put them in there wanting the car lower. When i lowered the car it looked jacked up in the rear, not right, so went down to Mercedes parts dept where he confirmed the car came with the 9mm shims. So i had to do it all over again to swap the shims, was so easy to do the second time around it seemed jacking up the car and removing the wheel took longer than getting the springs out. Plus i was able to look all around under there and inspect for the frame rot issue.

The one thing is having the right tools like you mention, which i happen to have collected a good collection throughout the years. Thats why i spend so much time researching the job before even starting it to make sure. The one tool I have now which i wish i had along time ago is my Dewalt DCF901 1/2 impact wrench, makes alot of jobs so much easier and faster. I only had ratchets until a year ago, what a difference it makes.

 

I know right. My parking area is gravel so I lay down large pieces of carpet so I dont get rocks stuck in my back.

 

www.maxjax.com

 

The weather has been horrible lately so no time to work on the car this past week.

I was going to reuse a fluid transfer pump i used for the differential fluid, gave it a really good thorough cleaning but was still debating if im being cheap and should just get a new one so theres no contamination. I was at Walmart looking through the end of season clearance isle for deals on fertilizer and lawn care stuff and they had 1 gallon sprayers for $5 so figure it will be good for pumping the fluid in. Im a bit pleasantly surprised at the quality of the little pump, seems comparable to the abn brake pressure bleeder i have. Has a wide mouth and the cap feels solid, pumps great with plenty of pressure. The hose for the wand is the only complaint, feels more on the hard plastic end than a flexible hose but should work fine. It even has s filter on the end of the hose probably good for keeping any dirt and sand from getting in the system. Bought a 2 pack of ball shutoff valves with 3/8 barbs on amazon for $6.99 and a then a 2' section of 3/8" ID X 1/2" OD polyester braid reinforced PVC tubing for $2.33. The tube is the perfect size for the atf109 adapter and the 3/8 shutoff valve though took a little effort to push and spin on the pumps connection. Just have to through some hose clamps on and should be good to go. Im glad i bought the reinforced tubing, I never used it before but after seeing how rigid it is it would be perfect to use on sunction pumps like the small transfer pump i have, it wont collapse easily. When i was doing the differential fluid the suction side of the pump hose was collapsing in on itself, now i know what to use instead.