I want to service the transmission on my 2010 C300 4matic Sport. It just hit 150,000 miles. I bought it used 3yrs ago, car fax shows "transmission serviced" at a Mercedes dealer at 40,000 and 80,000 miles so it's over due. I just looked underneath to see which pan it has on and noticed alot of rust so i want to replace the pan also. It looks like it has the pre-2010 pan on, non A89. I was kind of surprised since I thought dealers were supposed to upgrade the pans with the A89 version, or else im totally confused. Anyways, my question is should I replace the pan with the same pan Mercedes# 2212701212 or can I/should I replace it with the A89 version Mercedes# 2222700512? And if i do replace it with the A89 version the only thing i have to do differently is buy the filter for that pan right, but still use the red trans fluid?


Rusted pan.


Circular indent in pan, looks to me like the pre-2010 pan.


Pretty rough condition.


I already have a shopping cart full of everything I need to do the trans service. Thankfully I looked under the vehicle to double check and saw the rough condition of the pan. Never noticed before because I never went under the middle before, cars so low i have to drive it on ramps just to fit my jack under it. Thanks for any insight you can give.

 

When I needed a tranny pan I emailed or called German Auto Parts and Mark was very helpful and got me the right one. There were few different ones with different built date, so I had to go that route.

 

Thanks for the info. I just browsed that website and appears they list 2 pans for my vehicle, the early version that is currently on now and then the deeper pan for code A89. Thinking I will just keep it simple and replace it with whats on it. I just could have sworn I saw service notes before saying if you ever pull the early version pan to do repairs then to replace with "upgraded" version. This weekend is tax free in MA so putting a list together for parts.

Side note, I got the CTA 7650 transmission adapter kit to blow out the trans with an air compressor, I have been trying to search threads to see how well they work and doesnt seem many people use them. Only reason I bought it was I found one on sale for $80 so figured why not.

 

FCP Euro has a kit to replace the old style pan and filter with the newer version. The newer version (i.e., A89) is deeper to accommodate the improved filter. I recommend doing the upgraded pan and filter.

Mercedes 722.9 Filter Upgrade Kit - Pentosin 001989680310 | FCP Euro

 

WRT the CTA 7650 tool, I also purchased but have not used it yet. Logically, it seems like a good idea. I have found, however, that my local MB dealer will do the transmission service with my parts if I pay just the labor. And from time to time they send out coupons for services. When you buy the transmission service kit (or any parts) from FCP Euro, it is normally the last time you have to pay for the parts. Check out their lifetime replacement policy. Just purchase a second time and return the used parts for credit. FCP Euro Lifetime Auto Parts Replacement Guarantee | FCP Euro

$80 is a damned good deal for the CTA 7650, less than half of the going price.

 

Seeing your tranny pan, what kinda shape is your rear subframe in ?

 

Lastly, performing the tranny service is not particularly difficult, but you will need to raise the car and keep it level -- ramps will not work. There are plenty of videos that show how to do it. If you plan on doing your own maintenance, it would be a good investment to purchase a lift of some sort, such as a MaxJax or QuickJack. Both are safer and easier than getting the car level with jack stands.

 

Surprisingly not bad. I didnt even know about the rusted subframe issues until after i bought it. Ive been slowly going through everything. I did have to replace the rear dust shields because they were so rusted the parking brake springs wouldnt even go back in, that job turned out to be easy with just snipping out the old ones and cutting the new shields in half and fitting them in that way, shields at the dealer were only $11 each. Bottom of the springs were rusted so i replaced those. The spring control arms look a bit rusty so i bought two to install just havent yet. the frame itself isnt bad, just some rust I was able to wire brush off and paint. When I originally started reading about the subframes cracking i had a heart attack and made sure to look everything over. Ive had good luck finding deals on ebay, buy from cali salvage yards where I can look up the vin and see how many miles are on the parts, and they look almost new. A front spring broke while parked so i replaced both entire struts with a used pair with 30,000 miles on them, figure they are much better than the 120,000 + ones that were on at the time, think paid $120 shipped for the pair then I sold my old good one for $35. Same with the rear springs, think i paid $35 for the pair. I use FCP for some things like pads and rotors. I priced out my trans service and it will come to $193, $65 for the old style pan at FCP, $30 for the filter-gasket-bolts-tube at ID Parts which is close to me so i pick it up, then $98 for 12 bottle of Shell ATF off Amazon, listing is for 6 bottles for $48.99. Trying to spend as little as possible since I have other things to address also, just bought the oil drip pan and crankcase breather cover at FCP that should be here today.

 

Just to get my jack under I drive it up wooden ramps i made, just stacked the planks but only 2 high. Made them out of scaffold planks and drive the entire car up if needed. I have 4 jack stands if I need it higher, along with 2 jacks. I do not trust going under that thing unless the wheels are on ramps, im paranoid about being crushed. Only needed to go under for the front and read differential so far. never went under the middle, on top of the trans pan I just noticed an exhaust clamp cracked so have questions about that. think ill post another threat asking about it. Just want to make sure i know what im doing before I start removing things, probably have to cut the clamp off. I have a gravel parking area which sucks for laying on but I have big sections of carpet I put down.

 

Which atf fluid did you get? Make sure it’s red if you have the old style. The are videos by FCP on YouTube showing what and how to change the fluid.

do you have the start/stop ECO feature?

 

I got the red. My car shows delivery date of Dec 03, 2009 and the maintenance manual shows trans servise every 40K on top of no A89 on the build sheet so thats why I was thinking its the red fluid. Seeing the pan confirmed it. No start stop, I even went in with my scanner and says not supported.

 

Good! The Pentosin ATF 134 is what the dealer uses, though it may be branded as Mercedes Benz.

 

I have a question about what is the difference between the 722.9 transmission vs the 722.96/97? I came across some documents on filling the automatic transmission and they say "Transmission 722.9 (except 722.96/97)" Under Vehicle Information on my car it says I have transmission 722964 02 534269. Is there something different I need to do when filling the trans fluid instead of just the normal 722.9 instructions?




And I found this transmission filter and gasket kit for a good price. Listing says Filtran is the OE supplier. When i look at photos of a Mercedes trans filter it looks like Filtran is printed on it. Comes with Elring gasket. ID Parts is in MA and in the next town over from me so I pick up same day for free. They only deal with diesel Mercedes but they carry some parts I need like for the trans.

 

Go to lastvin.com and enter your VIN. It will give you your exact transmission code.

secondly, don’t go cheap on your tranny parts. Ain’t worth the few bucks.

 

I looked up my vin on a few difference places and they all say the same. transmission 722964 02 534269




Im not going cheap, im going with the best price. Filtran filter with Elring gasket for only $20. When I look up mercedes brand filters they are stamped Filtran, so why wouldnt I just get a Filtran filter? It would be foolish to spend an additional $20 just to have Mercedes printed on the same filter.


Mercedes Filter with Filtran label.

 

Your transmission is 722.964. These fill instructions look appropriate:

https://www.weistec.com/forms/weiste...ervicedata.pdf

 

I found some instructions for my 722.964. I'm thinking it's due to the 4matic and having the transfer case. The instructions mention lowering the trans/transfer case and prefilling with oil. Think the instructions are written in a way as if its never been filled before. Mines obviously been filled. Good to know theres a fill on the transfer case.







8-18 is a little confusing. says pump in 6 liters, shut off, then start and add 4 more, but theres a note for filling what has been drained +0.5 liters. Ill have to sit down and digest what it's saying.

 

excellent thank you. I happen to stumble upon the same article.

 

Excellent! And I agree. If you can get an OE or OEM part, especially one with "Mercedes" stamped on it, and save money, you should. I use aftermarket brake pads and trunk/hood struts to save money. But those things won't cost thousands of dollars if they wear out sooner, but when it comes to filters and fluids, I stick with Genuine, OE, or OEM parts.

 

Any you are absolutely right. Filtran is the OE manufacturer.

 

I am a bit confused though why you have the old-style transmission on a 2010 model built in December 2009. No doubt that was the original pan, etc. if you don't have the A89 option code, but upgrading to the larger pan and improved filter is a legitimate upgrade. You would still use the red fluid (ATF134), but with an improved filter and larger capacity pan.

I actually bought the pan upgrade from FCP Euro when I had my 2004 SL500, but never got around to using it (I think--I'll have to check my garage). I had to replace the conductor plate and had the dealer do it. I don't remember if I had them use the upgraded pan and filter or not.

 

If the cost was the same to install the larger pan OR I didnt have a list of other things to address I would go with the larger pan. I purchased everything I think I need and it came to $226.41 w/tax. Thats with the pan and 12 liters of Shell atf 134. The FCP "upgraded pan" kit would be $285.82 w/tax and only has 8 liters of fluid. 8 liters may be enough but I do have that CTA drain tool and videos I watched showed people draining out more than 9 liters total with including that step. I try my best to only use Mercedes parts or OEM part. The one time I went aftermarket was a complete failure, I bought a set of front sway bar links off A for only $35, they came and looked almost identical to the original, even were stamped mercedes but they were knock offs, they didnt even last 2 days before they were clunking around. Thankfully i returned for a full refund and went with Febi links off FCP in the end, at least those a life time warranty. Just received an oil drip pan and breather cover from FCP today so ill be doing that in the mean time until trans parts come in.




Bought 3 since they are cheap.




In case the old plug is bad.


This is a good deal, with Elring gasket.




Could have got these for $48.99 but shipped 3rd party, rather pay a little more for Amazon to ship in case theres an issue and I need to return. Bought 2 for 12 bottle total. Paranoid about knocking a bottle over or spilling then not having enough. 12 is plenty to have on hand.


I'm thinking of buying a 2 gallon sprayer to use to fill the fluid.

 

I'll be doing it soon on all 3 of my cars, this is the pump I got, comes with appropriate fitting for MB
https://amzn.to/3OWpBJU

 

That looks like a good setup and reasonably priced.

 

I have a nice ABN brake bleeder pump but its had brake fluid in it. They have a 2 gallon sprayer at HF for $12.99 and I want to go there anyway to get a 1/4 torque wrench for this project.


Figure this can hold all the fluid and no need to stop and refill.

For the front differential i used just a cheap transfer pump, worked very well and fast. I did clean that up with soap and water but still dont trust reusing it for trans fluid. I had some quick connects laying around so just used those instead of getting a shut off valve, have the female end on the atf109 adapter side so when done pumping just disconnect and the fluid doesnt drain out.




Just disconnect when done pumping, fluid stays in while getting ready for next step.