Finding a charcoal canister (p2422, p0174, p0171)
#26
Junior Member
Thread Starter
The elbows were replaced with the purge valve but no clamps on them. I will take a picture of it and upload it.
My car is a 2010 Mercedes Benz C300 Luxury (6 Cylinders 3.0L FI DOHC 183 CID). I don't believe it's a PZEV engine.
My car is a 2010 Mercedes Benz C300 Luxury (6 Cylinders 3.0L FI DOHC 183 CID). I don't believe it's a PZEV engine.
#27
Junior Member
Thread Starter
So now when I put gas in car the engine turns on fine without me needing to put my foot on the gas and holding it for a minute or two after the car is turned on.
So changing the purge vavle and elbows did change something maybe. When it gets really cold outside after putting gas in the car if the car turns on fine then that'll be the real tell.
But this still makes me wonder why the engine light still stays on if this fixed the issue. I need to get behind my computer to upload the pics and video
So changing the purge vavle and elbows did change something maybe. When it gets really cold outside after putting gas in the car if the car turns on fine then that'll be the real tell.
But this still makes me wonder why the engine light still stays on if this fixed the issue. I need to get behind my computer to upload the pics and video
#28
MBWorld Fanatic!
The check engine light may still be coming on because the car has to go thru a few cycles or perform its own evap tests to clear it, even though you manually cleared it. Its the only thing I can think of. The thread I posted above mentions something along those lines in the articles linked in it.
Im not sure if i cleared the codes when I replaced my purge valve or if I let it fall off on its own. But in my fathers truck I know he cleared the codes after I replaced the purge valve and the check engine light never came back on again.
I do think clamps should be installed, either the originals or even regular hose clamps. The originals snap right back together, I must have removed my purge valve at least 3 times messing around with it and the clamps still seem to work fine.
Im not sure if i cleared the codes when I replaced my purge valve or if I let it fall off on its own. But in my fathers truck I know he cleared the codes after I replaced the purge valve and the check engine light never came back on again.
I do think clamps should be installed, either the originals or even regular hose clamps. The originals snap right back together, I must have removed my purge valve at least 3 times messing around with it and the clamps still seem to work fine.
#29
MBWorld Fanatic!
If you're not sure if your car is a PZEV mine has a sticker that mentions it on the underside of the hood near the emblem. Its good to know in case there's an issue with the fuel or emission's, they increased the warranty to 150,000 miles/15yrs. Also some of the parts are different, like the fuel pump, from regular models. Things like the purge valve and fuel pump are included. My purge valve actually went right around 148,000 miles but I didn't want to deal with the hassle bringing it to the dealer since they said id have to pay for the diagnosis.
It also depends which state you're in. Im in MA so get the extended, other states not listed is only 2yrs. I keep forgetting about it since my cars past the mileage now.
The warranty info is in the back of the Service and Warranty Information book included with the Operators manual in the glove box.
It also depends which state you're in. Im in MA so get the extended, other states not listed is only 2yrs. I keep forgetting about it since my cars past the mileage now.
The warranty info is in the back of the Service and Warranty Information book included with the Operators manual in the glove box.
Last edited by TimC300; 12-22-2023 at 05:53 PM.
#30
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Sorry i've been away for a bit. Someone had to use my car for a week so I didn't have access to it. Yesterday I was replacing some of the lights for my car and adding a new mic to it and when I turned on the car the engine light just went away! You were right Tim. It had to go through a few cycles. I'm going to get my inspection today and see if the engine light comes back when it get colder.
The issue had to be the hoses. Those things had cracks. I still haven't put any clamps or anything on them yet either but i'm going to. Need to purchase some and the tool to tighten it up.
I can NOT thank you all enough. Especially you Tim. You are the best!
The issue had to be the hoses. Those things had cracks. I still haven't put any clamps or anything on them yet either but i'm going to. Need to purchase some and the tool to tighten it up.
I can NOT thank you all enough. Especially you Tim. You are the best!
The following users liked this post:
TimC300 (01-12-2024)
#32
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I've been bombarded with work and it's been hectic but just an update that the car is still running fine and this issue has been fixed. Now I've been having other issues but nothing related to this lol.