dorfer21

I had an Indy shop reset the trans shift adaptations. (Shout out to Wooster’s Garage)

we’ll see how that works out, but so far no improvement or change on the 2-3 shift.

Odd Piggy

Give it 100 miles, but the results you posted are not encouraging.

If you dive into it and decide to rebuild yourself, you may be looking at $1000 in parts if components for the K1 clutch circuit aren’t available individually. Personally, I wouldn’t want to rebuild all the clutch and brake friction packs and actuators without changing solenoids and rebuilding the valve body.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Frankly, I would get a rebuilt tranny for about $3500 (plus labor and taxes) with a three year warranty IF you think the tranny is toast. If just the valve body and solenoids are the problem, get a new setup from the dealer for around $2000 (complete valve body, solenoids, and conductor plate installed).

Odd Piggy

Decisions, decisions….…………

dorfer21

Im going to try a new trans. I dont think the issue is the solenoid or the valve body.

does the 722.9 from a 2014 with the 3.5 fit a 2012? I’m able to find those a lot easier than one from a ‘12 C300.

or if its just a matter of swapping the bell housing.

Odd Piggy

2012 C300 and 2014 C350 both have M276 engine, so bell housings should be the same. However, you’ll need the sub model to match. That’s the xx in 722.9xx. If your C300 is a 4matic, then the replacement will also have to be 4matic because the transfer case is integral. You can get your sub model from the ID plate on the transaction case or from the data card.
You’ll also need to get the new conductor plate normalized to your car because it’s part of the DAS. You could use your old conductor plate, but that’s risky when the old transmission is sick.

dorfer21

The old trans was not long for this world. There is a lot of metal on the pan magnets.

Found a rebuilt 722.964 on ebay, no torque converter or valve body. Currently working on pulling the old trans to get the new one installed.

Any advice on getting a new TC or VB or just clean up the ones i have? The valves seem to fit good and seal in their bores. i do need to flush the trans oil cooler. I am going to get new solenoids.

i picked up a youcanic scan tool. That is able to do the adaptations ill need for the solenoids when i get the trans in.

Odd Piggy

Since you have metal particles circulating in the fluid system, I don’t think just flushing with transmission fluid is sufficient. I would remove the cooler, pull the valves on the VB, and flush with volatile solvent, then blow dry with high pressure dehumidified air or dry nitrogen. The oil cooler and valve body should be okay with that and you are going to get new solenoids. But I’m not sure that there is any way to sufficiently clean out the torque converter. It might be best to just search for one from a low mileage car.