2012 C300 722.9 Transmission issue
The main issue is there is some flare when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd, and I'm trying to nail down if the issues is due to the valve body, conductor plate or the clutches themselves.
I have 2 codes stored:
P0894 - Transmission Component Slipping
P0733 - Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio
My google-fu has turned up something about the K1 solenoid possibly having a bad seal and that may cause this issue, but I wanted to have the hive mind assist as well.
I'll try to get a video of the issue and add it later.
What say you all?
Last edited by dorfer21; Mar 6, 2024 at 02:14 PM. Reason: add Conductor plate model




I didn't see any signs of metal chunks/ shavings on the magnets either.
Also, this is a used transmission, the original was replaced at 114K, with a trans that had 82K and the car now has 144K.
Last edited by dorfer21; Mar 6, 2024 at 02:56 PM. Reason: more info on the ATF change




I'm assuming you still have shifting issues though i dont really know what "flare" means.
Have you erased the codes and they have come back, they are current?
I'm focusing on the fluid since its the easiest and also the first step in my opinion with trans issues. I watched a youtube video where someone did a filter and fluid change in a C63 but did not follow the Mercedes procedures, they didnt even check the fluid temp if i remember correctly. They took it for a drive and it wouldnt shift right. They finally looked up the procedure and did the fluid over again and it solved the issue.
Did you put in the same amount of fluid that came out?
yes, ive cleared the old codes and theses are the two that keep recurring.
‘Flare’ when it comes to trans is where the trans changes the gear ( i can feel the shift to third) but then the rpm’s climb and then drop, they flare up for about 1-2 seconds and then stabilize.
it doesnt feel quite like the clutches are slipping in the traditional way, more like the vb isn’t allowing enough line pressure immediately to keep them locked.
Last edited by dorfer21; Mar 6, 2024 at 05:55 PM.
- Spend the money and get a proper scan tool. The LAUNCH Creader Elite 2.0 BENZ is a popular one.
- What was the known issue when you bought the car?
- Need some history of the car. 114,000 miles is too early for the tranny to fail unless it was abused. Was the previous owner the original owner? Was it properly maintained? Before you, has the fluid in the replacement tranny been changed?
- Run your VIN through www.lastvin.com and look for code A89. Confirm whether you have it and let us know.
Last edited by JettaRed; Mar 6, 2024 at 07:07 PM.
P0729 - Gear 6 Incorrect Ratio
P0732 - Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio
P076F - Gear 7 Incorrect Ratio (Manufacturer Defined)
they all were resolved once i did the fluid change and cleaned the contacts on the TCM.
i have a OBlink adapter and code reader the does all the relevant code reading and resetting that you can do without a Star or Xentry. This is not my first rodeo with auto repair, just my first with a Mercedes Benz.
I have service records going back to 2019. The owner that I purchased it from knew there was a trans issue and i bought it knowing that as well. He knew that trans issues were out of his league.
he said that the trans went into limp mode after it warmed up, but i never experienced that issue.
The owner previous to him kept the vehicle in good shape according to the records, EIS/ELS repair, oil service at the dealer. Air bag recall, etc.
Last edited by dorfer21; Mar 6, 2024 at 07:20 PM.
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The main issue is there is some flare when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd, and I'm trying to nail down if the issues is due to the valve body, conductor plate or the clutches themselves.
I have 2 codes stored:
P0894 - Transmission Component Slipping
P0733 - Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio
My google-fu has turned up something about the K1 solenoid possibly having a bad seal and that may cause this issue, but I wanted to have the hive mind assist as well.
I'll try to get a video of the issue and add it later.
What say you all?
So with all due respect my question is, any chance it's a butt dyno calibration error?
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
So with all due respect my question is, any chance it's a butt dyno calibration error?
P0729 - Gear 6 Incorrect Ratio
P0732 - Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio
P076F - Gear 7 Incorrect Ratio (Manufacturer Defined)
they all were resolved once i did the fluid change and cleaned the contacts on the TCM.
i have a OBlink adapter and code reader the does all the relevant code reading and resetting that you can do without a Star or Xentry. This is not my first rodeo with auto repair, just my first with a Mercedes Benz.
I have service records going back to 2019. The owner that I purchased it from knew there was a trans issue and i bought it knowing that as well. He knew that trans issues were out of his league.
he said that the trans went into limp mode after it warmed up, but i never experienced that issue.
The owner previous to him kept the vehicle in good shape according to the records, EIS/ELS repair, oil service at the dealer. Air bag recall, etc.
Since the tranny was replaced with one likely from a salvage yard, I wonder if it was every calibrated to the "new" vehicle. If the replacement was done by an indy, then maybe the calibration using XENTRY was never performed. That could be the cause of the problems from the beginning.




The business ends of the solenoids dont look very good. Not like what ive seen in pictures of replacements. They didn’t have any major metal particles on them or in the bores. They all ohmed out lower than ive seen. I think they supposed to be 5.5, but these are all at 4.8.
also, i am missing a check ball. I only have 13 steel and 2 phenolic when i should have 14 steel.
i think someone was in this valve body once already screwing around.
anyone know what size these checkballs are?
What would happen if I replaced all of the
solenoids?
Not sure if it really matters as long as they seal, but I will try to source some 5.8mm check *****.




https://atsg.drcar.ch/index.php?call...df&urltype=pdf
I have never measured the resistance of the solenoids. If they are all 4.8 ohms, that would seem right, but other 722.9 threads here are saying 7-20 ohms. Since you’re already into the bottom end of the transmission, new solenoids wouldn’t hurt if you’re not happy with their appearance.
Here are the ones I still have if you are interested. Send me a DM if interested.
Now, researching the locations im seeing a few different layouts for the check valves. I see one that matches my 5 small and one larger valve. But that also has 3 valves in the upper body that i do not have. I also dont see any space for them though like on the lower body.
Is this expected for some of these valve bodies?




Now, researching the locations im seeing a few different layouts for the check valves. I see one that matches my 5 small and one larger valve. But that also has 3 valves in the upper body that i do not have. I also dont see any space for them though like on the lower body.
Is this expected for some of these valve bodies?
I’ve been inside exactly 4 transmissions and that’s been to put them back together exactly the way I found them, not to fix what someone else messed up.
But I do know this: The 722.9xx transmissions come in older NAG2 and newer NAG2+. Both of those have 400 & 700 variants depending on the engine and vehicle.
So maybe 4 different valve body configurations? Maybe more if the 4matic and AMG versions are different.
There should be an ID plate on the left side of your transmission with the number on it that shows exactly which variant you have (722 9xx *** ***). It’s also available on the data card. The xx is what is needed to find the exact configuration for detailed repair instructions. A copy of the WIS may help.
the issue persists…
Next steps
1) visit an indy to have the trans adaptations cleared.
2) ‘new’ valve body.
3) trans rebuild.
thoughts on the next steps?




Does your scanner support 2-way communication with all the modules or just the DTC memory? If it supports 2-way to the TCU, you may be able to clear the adaptations with it. At the least, do that or get it done before spending more.
You can do an on car reset, but I have heard that isn’t as good.
You have seen the valve body. If it and the valves don’t appear visibly damaged, it’s probably not the problem.
The clutch could be very worn or the actuator is failing. Once you are at that point, it would seem that a rebuild is the next step. A problem with this is finding a shop that will work on a Mercedes transmission if you’re not near a big city. Some of the chain locations will not work on MB trans. An option could be either getting a rebuilt or even a used transmission that comes with a warranty.
My scanner only does the DTC’s for MB. Is there a decently priced once that will communicate with the TCM? Someone posted a LAUNCH reader, but that doesn’t seem to do the TCM (unless i missed something)
unfortunately the main Transmission shop around here wont rebuild it. Im not that close to a major area to have it done and cost may be a factor. Im not opposed to just doing it myself, its not my only vehicle so if its down for a bit, im just out the extra gas my power wagon uses










