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Hello All,
Car does not start. Tried to jump start, no use. Tried an spare key, again no help. Steering wheel is locked, gear in park position. Interior lights do come up, door locks work, but no radio, large LCD display is blank, windows don't work, headlights don't work, dash light works, small LCD display in the dash works but can't change the modes, when turning the key, engine, battery etc. lights don't turn on. When trying to start, nothing happens. As mentioned jump starting did not help, even after 20 minutes to top off the battery did no good. Checked the fuse box in the engine compartment, seemed OK, it was dark, need to check again. Please advise.
Thanks, no sound what so ever when I turn the key, no relay clicking, no starter sound, etc.. I tried two keys, no help.
Yep, still sounds like a key. Is the "second" battery dead? We just had to replace that in our C300, can not recall if the key was an issue or not (it was low, not dead). Does your keyless entry work from the same key?
Both keys lock and unlock the car. I assume their batteries should be OK, also I did not think the key battery would affect the car start (I think the car powers the key when you insert it in the ignition, through infrared). I have started the car in the past even when key battery was dead. I have spare batteries, I can try to replace the battery, will try anything that might help. My car does not have key less start option.
Hello All,
To update, last night the car was towed to a nearby shop, it turned out that they are closed on Fridays. Went there to check on the car and to see what I could figure out by myself. Well, on the first try, the car started. I think the idea was for me to pay for towing and agonize. I also used an scanner which shows no error codes. Strange!
Thanks
The issue is not resolved. Just drove home. Evey time you insert the key into ignition, steering wheel should get unlock. After multiple tires, it exhibited the issue agin. Steering does not get unlock and car does not start. This is an intermittent problem. Would appreciate any ideas as to what may be wrong or what to check for.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
This sounds very much like a failing Electronic Steering Lock (ESL). Search these forums and search YouTube. Don't keep messing with it!
Don't know how mechanically talented you are, but you can watch some YouTube videos and decide if you can fix it yourself. BUT, if you mess with it and the ESL fails completely, the problem just got 100 times worse.
This time it seems it is stock for good. The car is in my garage. Is there a way to bypass the electronic steering lock and start the car so that I can drive it to a shop? I noticed that the steering wheel is not locked.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by hoo121
This time it seems it is stock for good. The car is in my garage. Is there a way to bypass the electronic steering lock and start the car so that I can drive it to a shop? I noticed that the steering wheel is not locked.
Search YouTube. There are plenty of videos describing your problem and how to fix it. If you don't want to or can't do it, get it towed to the dealer. You cannot bypass the ESL; it is an anti-theft protection.
As mentioned above a dead key fob battery has no effect on the car starting or not. The key fob battery just locks/unlocks the car by remote. When you insert the key fob into the ignition the car basically sends electricity into the key fob through an inductive coil similar to how a wireless phone charger works.
If the no start were only happening with 1 key fob and the other key started the car i would say its a faulty key fob, probably the inductive coil broke off the board, maybe from dropping the key fob. But since both key fobs wont start the car its not that.
Could be faulty ESL. or Ignition switch.
Best thing to do is scan the car with a Mercedes specific obd scanner. As an example you may get a code like this: ( A25464 "Electric Steering Column lock has a malfunction").
I never personally dealt with a no start issue like yours so im not much help. Though i have invested in an OBD scanner. The scanner I have lets you buy and download other car manufacturers software also for something like $60. So i can use it on any car in the future if needed.
- Get a new one installed which is very expensive, pay for the unit then pay for install then pay for coding it in. It adds up. Plus because the ESL is a security feature the part is regulated in that i dont think they will just sell you one from the dealer.
- If the small electric motor of the ESL is blown you can get a new motor installed. The motor is not expensive.
- Get an emulator installed. This way is less expensive. i don't think it has to be coded, but i could be wrong. Heres one from eBay. I picked this one since ive seen someone on here with it installed and they had no complaints with the car starting. Im not recommending it, just an example.
After looking around maybe the emulator does need to be programmed. This place says to send them your esl and key fob, then they send everything back.
Thanks for all the advise. Is this something that only a dealer can repair? Sadly, I don't trust the local dealer, I have not been there for about 20 years after I took the car for oil change and learned that they never changed the oil, how bad can it get? I have watched you tubes, it seems that the repair requires steering column removal (only saw one case that suggested if ESL was not locked you could get it out by loosening the steering without removing it). The task looks intimidating to me. I do change the engine oil, break fluid, and I have changed break pads and sensors, this is the extent of my experience working on cars. By the way, what would be an estimate for such a repair?
This time it seems it is stock for good. The car is in my garage. Is there a way to bypass the electronic steering lock and start the car so that I can drive it to a shop? I noticed that the steering wheel is not locked.
Consider yourself lucky if it failed in the open position. Open your windows, unlock the car, disconnect the battery, order the motor in that link I provided and replace it. Emphasis on luck. It failed open and in your garage.
Thanks for all the advise. Is this something that only a dealer can repair? Sadly, I don't trust the local dealer, I have not been there for about 20 years after I took the car for oil change and learned that they never changed the oil, how bad can it get? I have watched you tubes, it seems that the repair requires steering column removal (only saw one case that suggested if ESL was not locked you could get it out by loosening the steering without removing it). The task looks intimidating to me. I do change the engine oil, break fluid, and I have changed break pads and sensors, this is the extent of my experience working on cars. By the way, what would be an estimate for such a repair?
Thanks again.
Estimate is $1k+, more if they decide to fleece you and say you need the EIS replaced as well. If you’re patient, take your time in understanding the materials and you’ll be fine with your experience. Basic tools only, except the steering wheel bolt which needs a decent impact wrench. Breaker bar won’t work since the column is unlocked, and the bolt and steering wheel just rotate with your motion.
What im reading in that thread is some people found local lock smiths who went to here house and installed/coded an emulator in there car.
Since your ESL seems to be unlocked im wondering if it as easy as disconnecting the harness going to it and plugging it into an emulator? Have to code it obviously. But can skip alot of steps from having to remove the ESL from the steering column.
Thanks again for all the advise. I think I will try to do it by myself and avoid placing myself at the mercy of the dealer. I should have all the tools. Also just confirmed it is the ESL that is faulty. Removed the steering kick panel (slowly learning the proper vocabulary) and hit the steering column with plastic mallet couple of times. Low and behold, the car started. Shame on Mercedes that use what seems to be a toy DC motor in this device.
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