Can you identify this bolt?
The other day I was doing an oil change and when I pulled the splash guard off to get to the oil pan this bolt was just sitting on it...
The bolt is an E12 Torx and is about 3 7/8" long or 98.425mm.
It's a partially threaded bolt which leads me to believe it may be related to something suspension wise but I'm not seeing anything when I look.. I've also had a "metal/shaking" sound when going over potholes or other rough bumps which would cause the suspension to quickly compress. Looks kind of similar to one of the bolts on the strut tower.
I know it's a pretty vague question and there could be tons of applications for this bolt but hoping maybe someone can help me find a way to check any spots this thing may be missing from or just any information in general.
(Head of the bolt says KX2 with the number 88 below it)
Thanks in advance!




Are you measuring the length with or without the head?
Which side was is closer to?
Its nothing in the suspension, the only bolts that long are the control arms and you would notice those hanging down.
A bolt in the steering is 90mm. Part# 100 in the diagram below. (depending which steering rack you have)
Yeah I wasn't sure about the bolt grade either. The initial measurement included the bolt head. I did re-measure and got 92mm without the head.
As far as which side was close I'm assuming you mean which side did I find the bolt on? If so, I'm not sure. When I removed the 8mm screws to drop the guard it just came rolling out.
That bolt in the diagram you mentioned looks like the threading is a bit shorter depending on how accurately it depicts the bolt. I'll crawl up under there later today and see if I can't take a look at it.
Edit:
I'll check the alternator bolt as well. That picture looks very similar to the bolt
Last edited by TheMilli; May 9, 2024 at 12:03 PM. Reason: Got a new reply while typing initial reply




Its used on the alternator and also the ac compressor to hold them on.
That bolt looks clean, is that how your engine bay and car looks in general, clean? All my exposed bolts look mostly filthy.
Was anything done to the car recently, or ever that you know about? Anything that would require the alternator or the ac compressor removed?
Anyone else work on the car that could have dropped that bolt and installed another one instead because they couldnt find it?
I dont see how a bolt like that can wiggle out on its own.
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Its used on the alternator and also the ac compressor to hold them on.
That bolt looks clean, is that how your engine bay and car looks in general, clean? All my exposed bolts look mostly filthy.
Was anything done to the car recently, or ever that you know about? Anything that would require the alternator or the ac compressor removed?
Anyone else work on the car that could have dropped that bolt and installed another one instead because they couldnt find it?
I dont see how a bolt like that can wiggle out on its own.
I've had the car just under 2 years now and haven't had any issues up until the beginning of this year. Since I've owned it other than putting tires on, I've done all the work myself and the only front end work I've done is control arms and brakes which don't have any bolts that match up. Previous history other than oil changes I'm not sure about.
I'll check out all the other places you guys mentioned today and get back to you.
Strut Tower Bolts
Top PS Pump Bolt
Lower PS Pump Bolt
Side PS Pump Bolt
Crawled under there today and checked everything mentioned in this thread and all the bolts were there. I spent a good 30 minutes just skimming over anything this could of came out of and found nothing.
Like it was mentioned before, I'm pretty confused how a bolt like this would even make its way out of wherever it came from but for now I'm just gonna assume everything is good to go... Still not sure what that "clanking" noise is when going over pot holes and such but I'm assuming that is an unrelated issue.
Thanks for the suggestions guys!
A clank could be a heat shield or some part of the exhaust system. A klunk could be a suspension bushing or bad shock.




Crawled under there today and checked everything mentioned in this thread and all the bolts were there. I spent a good 30 minutes just skimming over anything this could of came out of and found nothing.
Like it was mentioned before, I'm pretty confused how a bolt like this would even make its way out of wherever it came from but for now I'm just gonna assume everything is good to go... Still not sure what that "clanking" noise is when going over pot holes and such but I'm assuming that is an unrelated issue.
Thanks for the suggestions guys!
Do you know your sub model, as in 204.???. Or what is your vin # so i can look it up. I am very curious to find out where it goes.
I have been looking at my cars 204.081 diagrams which should be pretty much the same as yours, except yours is 2014 and mines 2010. May be some different engine related things that im not seeing with my diagrams.
I went thru the diagrams for the suspension, front axle, substructure, steering, front end/firewall, exhaust, and my M272 engine. I searched for every bolt from 80-100mm and the only ones ive come across are the alternator and the ac compressor bolts.
Which undertray was it laying on, the front or the middle one?








The 3 bolts at the top of the strut are only around 1" long. The other two bolts holding the strut to the wheel carrier are 70mm and much thicker.
When I had metal-on-metal clanking it turned out to be bad sway bar links. It was most noticeable when at highway speeds hitting a pot hole. It sounded like 3-4 clanks in a row, the first one loudest. Easy way to check sway bar links is with the entire front end in the air wheels off just grab the link and see if it twists easy, if it does the ball/socket is probably worn. Check the rubber boots for tears, water can get in and wash the grease out resulting in faster wear.
The bolt has yet to find it's home. I'm convinced this doesn't even belong to my car at this point lol. As for the "clanking" noise it is still there and I've replaced a few things with no fix. So far I've replaced the lower control arm and the sway bar links on both ends.
The noise is coming from the center of the car which is why I've been lead to think the CV axle could be an issue? It seems odd to me that it would be this because I have no other symptoms of a bad CV. I'll post a video and all the symptoms I've noticed below.
Symptoms:
- Metallic "clanking" noise when going over pot holes or other rough bumps between 15 MPH and 30 MPH
- Backing up or going forward at low speeds (5 MPH or less) giving the brake a quick firm tap it almost feels like something is shifting
looking at the video, is it normal for the CV axle to have play/make noise like that? I’ve only replaced a few in my life but it’s always been for bad linkage. Everything on my CV seems to be fine other than the noise when I shake it.
Last edited by TheMilli; Jun 2, 2024 at 09:52 AM.
But I also feel like if it was strut related I would notice other issues don't you think? If I go over long smooth speed bumps (the ones that are more like hills than bumps) I don't notice anything at all. The car also sits perfectly fine and I don't notice any sort of extra body roll when turning either way. Maybe it could be the bump stop but that just seems so un likely to me.
I will most likely be taking it apart soon either way just to check it out.
Last edited by TheMilli; Jun 2, 2024 at 09:05 AM.




The cv axle does move in and out, like in your video. Its designed like that. Unless the boots are torn and leaking grease I wouldnt think they are the cause of the noise.
Maybe jack up the front end and start wacking things with a rubber mallet, not the engine but connection points of the suspension and steering. See if you can reproduce the sound. Hit where the sway bar connects to the car.
I was just remembering over the winter I heard a banging noise that in my head i thought may be the sway bar link, to me it sounded like metal hitting metal. Turns out there was a screw missing securing a section of the plastic undertray. This section when not secured is allowed to really bang around under there. It was missing the screw and the metal insert in the frame. Worth a look to see if all the screws in your undertray are there.




I ask because i had previously bought and installed a set of chinese knockoff links and had issues, actually 2 sets since the first set was defective right out of the box. Returned and ended up installing a Febi set of links which were working great, until i recently noticed one of the boots is already cracking apart. Im about to exchange it under warranty.
Passenger side Febi link after only 2yrs:
The cv axle does move in and out, like in your video. Its designed like that. Unless the boots are torn and leaking grease I wouldnt think they are the cause of the noise.
Maybe jack up the front end and start wacking things with a rubber mallet, not the engine but connection points of the suspension and steering. See if you can reproduce the sound. Hit where the sway bar connects to the car.
I was just remembering over the winter I heard a banging noise that in my head i thought may be the sway bar link, to me it sounded like metal hitting metal. Turns out there was a screw missing securing a section of the plastic undertray. This section when not secured is allowed to really bang around under there. It was missing the screw and the metal insert in the frame. Worth a look to see if all the screws in your undertray are there.
I ask because i had previously bought and installed a set of chinese knockoff links and had issues, actually 2 sets since the first set was defective right out of the box. Returned and ended up installing a Febi set of links which were working great, until i recently noticed one of the boots is already cracking apart. Im about to exchange it under warranty.
Passenger side Febi link after only 2yrs:
The links I installed were Delphi (TC3385 and TC3384). Was going to go with MOOG but I liked how the Delphi matched the style of the OEM's.
It may be a bit until I get to it but once the axle is replaced I'll post an update! On top of all these issues I'm now getting the start up rattle from the VVT sprocket/Cam adjusters on the driver side so I guess I'll be adding that to the list of things to do

Side note, these made the 204 struts a cakewalk:







