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Front control arm recommendations

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Old Aug 21, 2024 | 09:36 PM
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Front control arm recommendations

I’m hearing some noise from underneath my 2013 C250. Initially, I thought the sway bars might be the issue, but after taking it to a shop, it turned out to be the front control arms are actually bad. The mechanic showed me that both the upper and lower control arms have significant play. Has anyone here dealt with this issue before? I’m looking for recommendations which ones to go with, I checked both FCP Euro, German Auto Parts and Rock Auto, and there are many choices. I want to stay within a reasonable budget. Also, are there any special tricks or tools I should know about for this repair?

Thanks in advance!
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Old Aug 21, 2024 | 10:35 PM
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How many miles, and have the struts ever been replaced? Unless the bushings are leaking, my suspicion lay elsewhere.
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Old Aug 22, 2024 | 01:16 AM
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Mercedes genuine parts are hood choices
else LEMFORDER is the next best choice for a reasonable price.

It's not just one specific part that is worned out, it's all of them that are a little worned loose.

Don't choose between stab-bar or control arms.... everything must go... ball joints and all the way to $60 strut bearings.
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Old Aug 22, 2024 | 07:17 AM
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The car has 140k.
The struts and bearings were replaced back in 2021, don't recall the mileage at that time.
I think I will start off with front lower+upper control arms, which should have the new ball joints already. Also, replace the the sway bar links, since I already bought the links.
I will change the rear ones eventually but wait till I get thru thru the front first.

Last edited by meazz1; Aug 22, 2024 at 07:24 AM.
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Old Aug 22, 2024 | 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by meazz1
I’m hearing some noise from underneath my 2013 C250. Initially, I thought the sway bars might be the issue, but after taking it to a shop, it turned out to be the front control arms are actually bad. The mechanic showed me that both the upper and lower control arms have significant play. Has anyone here dealt with this issue before? I’m looking for recommendations which ones to go with, I checked both FCP Euro, German Auto Parts and Rock Auto, and there are many choices. I want to stay within a reasonable budget. Also, are there any special tricks or tools I should know about for this repair?

Thanks in advance!
@meazz1 - hey man. I replaced the front end suspension in my c250 a couple months back. Including front sway bar, end links, and control arms.

I went with the lemforder front control arm kit from FCP. It was straight forward just take your time.

once I had all the work completed, I took it to my Mercedes Benz dealer for an alignment and torque check. I was not able to fully torque the bolts laying on my back. You have to put everything together snugg but not tight. You do final torque down with the vehicles weight on the suspension. Same procedure Tim advised in your other thread.


I set the front of the car up on jack stands to complete the work. This gives you the most room and accessibility to work.

here’s a couple photos from the job. I’ll post a couple more from my other phone.

let me know if you have any specific questions!

ant




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Old Aug 22, 2024 | 09:27 AM
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@meazz1 - it’s not letting me post the videos from my other phone due to format issues.

I’ll try and get them uploaded on YouTube for you to reference

ant
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Old Aug 22, 2024 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by antboii
@meazz1 - it’s not letting me post the videos from my other phone due to format issues.

I’ll try and get them uploaded on YouTube for you to reference

ant
@meazz1 - check this YT short i just uploaded. i have a couple more videos on the front end suspension replacement.

All the parts from are from FCP Euro. i went with Lemforder for the fronts and Meile for the rears. My local MB dealer installed the rear for me when they did the rear sub-frame recall.

I drove the car on ramps and then jacked it up further from there. Once the car was fully jacked up, i then supported the car with two jack-stands as you'll see.

I used blocks of wood to support/hold the steering knuckle from binding and pulling on the brake line and ABS sensor. Let me know if you have any other specific questions.


ant

Last edited by antboii; Aug 22, 2024 at 01:50 PM.
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Old Aug 22, 2024 | 01:58 PM
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w204 c300 3.0 flex
Karl

Used some Karl brand off eBay and was impressed with the quality and they fit perfectly. Used Bison brand for the sway bar links also fit perfectly. Time will tell of their durability but they fixed the bushing noise and vastly tightened up the car.
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Old Aug 22, 2024 | 02:06 PM
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I appreciate everyone here with helpful suggestions.
As far as tools go, I have been watching some You tube videos and gathering tools for the work.
Do I need a ball joint separator?
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Old Aug 22, 2024 | 02:12 PM
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w204 c300 3.0 flex
Yes

Yes you will absolutely need a ball joint separator. Use the little small ones that look like the letter V. Harbor freight should have them. You'll have to tap it in tight with a hammer being careful to work around the other areas. Do one arm at a time that way the knuckle is held a bit from flopping around so much and remember not to tighten up the arms fully until the vehicles suspension is at its normal compressed resting height.
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Old Aug 22, 2024 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by meazz1
I appreciate everyone here with helpful suggestions.
As far as tools go, I have been watching some You tube videos and gathering tools for the work.
Do I need a ball joint separator?
@meazz1 - I don’t recall having to bust out the separator. I didn’t change the tie rods as mine were fine.

However, if you hit the knuckle where the ball joint is pressed into, you can free it without damaging it. That’s what I did.

Unless you are going to replace the tie rods/ball joints a separator is a good tool to have.
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Old Aug 23, 2024 | 07:01 PM
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Is it possible to get the torque specs for both the upper and lower front control arms?
@TimC300 was nice enough to help me with sway bar spces in another thread.
If anyone has the WIS and tme to help, appreciate it in advance.
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Old Aug 23, 2024 | 08:22 PM
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In my diagrams I wrote 80nm + 120 degrees for the nut/bolts at the bushings, and 50nm + 60 degrees at the ball joints.

I cannot remember where I got those numbers from.

I believe the wis is AR33.15-P-0160CW and AR33.15-P-0161CW. Which I cannot find anywhere.

I am curious to see what they are also.
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Old Aug 23, 2024 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by TimC300
In my diagrams I wrote 80nm + 120 degrees for the nut/bolts at the bushings, and 50nm + 60 degrees at the ball joints.

I cannot remember where I got those numbers from.

I believe the wis is AR33.15-P-0160CW and AR33.15-P-0161CW. Which I cannot find anywhere.

I am curious to see what they are also.
I just watched an AutoDoc video and they also mention the same specs as you have.
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Old Aug 24, 2024 | 05:17 AM
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DO POINT OUT WHEN IT COMES TO “UPRATED SUSPENSION BUSHINGS” and seeing W204 models (including AMG / Black Series) have no Front Camber or Caster and no Rear Camber OEM….

WE MANUFACTURE A “TOTAL SYSTEM”.

SEE LEAFLET / SPOILER ATTACHED !

Resolving costly, premature tire replacement. Allowing to be able to adjust front and rear tire contact angles / spread load more evenly. Or Track days - able to dial in “extra negative” Camber to significantly reduce understeer !

K-MAC HAS THE EXPERIENCE OF DESIGNING MANUFACTURING “UPRATED PERFORMANCE BUSHINGS AND ADJUSTER KITS” LONGER THEN ANY OTHER BRAND.

This combined with constant proving / developing on the race track - then proudly IN-HOUSE manufacture (not sourcing imports) allows total control over quality and rapid ongoing product development.

TO INSTALL ALL “FRONT & REAR” K-MAC ADJUSTER KITS INCLUDE BUSH EXTRACTION TOOLS SO NO SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED OR TIME CONSUMING NEED FOR CONTROL ARM REMOVAL.

Spoiler
 




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Old Aug 30, 2024 | 05:43 PM
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I replaced the front control arms both upper and lower, left and right and the sway bars. it's clear that the arms and sway bars were completely worn out, still they didn't resolve the clunking or metal-on-metal noise that I hear on uneven roads, even slightly uneven roads. The noise sounds like metal hitting metal but not that much noticeable on smooth surface.I took the car to Firestone for an alignment after the arms and say bars were replaced and asked them to check if everything was tightened to specification. It seems that the control arms and sway bars are properly installed and not the issue. The technician suspects that the problem might be with the CV axle, although this is just a guess.

What are the symptoms of a bad CV axle? The boots are not leaking.

Last edited by meazz1; Aug 30, 2024 at 06:17 PM.
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Old Aug 30, 2024 | 11:22 PM
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Worn cv axles i'm thinking you would also feel it in the steering wheel. I've read symptoms would be more noticeable when turning.

I'm just throwing this out there but have you inspected the under trays? I was hearing a noise going over bumps I thought may be something with the suspension, turned out to be two screws holding the under tray below the transmission pan were missing and the plastic was clanking around. Its a hard plastic and sounded like metal clanking to me. On mine the screws and the metal clips that go into the frame of the car were missing. Even now i have a few fasteners under there that are rusted out and the brackets arent very secure. I picked up a few to replace them next time i go under there.

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Old Aug 30, 2024 | 11:24 PM
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Could the metal-on-metal sound be coming from something not related to suspension? Maybe exhaust system vibrating enough on poor road surfaces to contact the underbody? Or maybe something else under the car coming loose? How is the condition of your rear sub frame? Rusting through and breaking is a known issue on the W204.

Just another guess.
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Old Aug 31, 2024 | 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by meazz1
I replaced the front control arms both upper and lower, left and right and the sway bars. it's clear that the arms and sway bars were completely worn out, still they didn't resolve the clunking or metal-on-metal noise that I hear on uneven roads, even slightly uneven roads. The noise sounds like metal hitting metal but not that much noticeable on smooth surface.I took the car to Firestone for an alignment after the arms and say bars were replaced and asked them to check if everything was tightened to specification. It seems that the control arms and sway bars are properly installed and not the issue. The technician suspects that the problem might be with the CV axle, although this is just a guess.

What are the symptoms of a bad CV axle? The boots are not leaking.
@meazz1 - did you replace the actual sway bar as well with the built in bushings? Or just the sway bar end links?

I replaced the front sway bar that connects to the sway bar end links because it has bushings that are not replaceable at the mounting points. That’s my only other guess at metal on metal contact while driving. OR it could be the engine mounts and trans mount. That can create a metal on metal noise if the engine mounts are fully collapsed but you would notice that at idle.

ant
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Old Aug 31, 2024 | 04:10 PM
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Thanks all for chiming in and suggesting what this metal on metal sound could be.
So, as @TimC300 suggested, I checked underneath and the trays are secured tight, no fastner is missing or loose.
Today being Saturday, I decided just to go any shop and have them put the car on the lift and take it from there. I ended up going to this place called Sonammo Auto in Duluth GA., I read good reviews but never been there before.
It took him less than a minute to find out that the left sway bar link bolt was loose.
I missed to tighten the bolt and Firestone's inspection also failed, ha ha.

But all good now, car runs so smooth and really handles better, or it's in my head, lol.
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Old Sep 2, 2024 | 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by meazz1
But all good now, car runs so smooth and really handles better, or it's in my head, lol.
Doesn’t matter, but with all new front suspension it should feel like a new car!
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Old Sep 23, 2024 | 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by K-Mac
DO POINT OUT WHEN IT COMES TO “UPRATED SUSPENSION BUSHINGS” and seeing W204 models (including AMG / Black Series) have no Front Camber or Caster and no Rear Camber OEM….

WE MANUFACTURE A “TOTAL SYSTEM”.

SEE LEAFLET / SPOILER ATTACHED !

Resolving costly, premature tire replacement. Allowing to be able to adjust front and rear tire contact angles / spread load more evenly. Or Track days - able to dial in “extra negative” Camber to significantly reduce understeer !

K-MAC HAS THE EXPERIENCE OF DESIGNING MANUFACTURING “UPRATED PERFORMANCE BUSHINGS AND ADJUSTER KITS” LONGER THEN ANY OTHER BRAND.

This combined with constant proving / developing on the race track - then proudly IN-HOUSE manufacture (not sourcing imports) allows total control over quality and rapid ongoing product development.

TO INSTALL ALL “FRONT & REAR” K-MAC ADJUSTER KITS INCLUDE BUSH EXTRACTION TOOLS SO NO SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED OR TIME CONSUMING NEED FOR CONTROL ARM REMOVAL.

Spoiler
 
Hey K-Mac?? When you say a total system does that include every bushing for both top and bottom because I need to replace mine. I'm starting to hear creaking noises so the sooner I can replace them the better. Thanks in advance.

I have a 2013 C250 Coupe with the Sports Package.
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