Front control arm recommendations
Thanks in advance!




else LEMFORDER is the next best choice for a reasonable price.
It's not just one specific part that is worned out, it's all of them that are a little worned loose.
Don't choose between stab-bar or control arms.... everything must go... ball joints and all the way to $60 strut bearings.
The struts and bearings were replaced back in 2021, don't recall the mileage at that time.
I think I will start off with front lower+upper control arms, which should have the new ball joints already. Also, replace the the sway bar links, since I already bought the links.
I will change the rear ones eventually but wait till I get thru thru the front first.
Last edited by meazz1; Aug 22, 2024 at 07:24 AM.



Thanks in advance!
I went with the lemforder front control arm kit from FCP. It was straight forward just take your time.
once I had all the work completed, I took it to my Mercedes Benz dealer for an alignment and torque check. I was not able to fully torque the bolts laying on my back. You have to put everything together snugg but not tight. You do final torque down with the vehicles weight on the suspension. Same procedure Tim advised in your other thread.
I set the front of the car up on jack stands to complete the work. This gives you the most room and accessibility to work.
here’s a couple photos from the job. I’ll post a couple more from my other phone.
let me know if you have any specific questions!
ant



I’ll try and get them uploaded on YouTube for you to reference
ant



I’ll try and get them uploaded on YouTube for you to reference
ant
All the parts from are from FCP Euro. i went with Lemforder for the fronts and Meile for the rears. My local MB dealer installed the rear for me when they did the rear sub-frame recall.
I drove the car on ramps and then jacked it up further from there. Once the car was fully jacked up, i then supported the car with two jack-stands as you'll see.
I used blocks of wood to support/hold the steering knuckle from binding and pulling on the brake line and ABS sensor. Let me know if you have any other specific questions.
ant
Last edited by antboii; Aug 22, 2024 at 01:50 PM.
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As far as tools go, I have been watching some You tube videos and gathering tools for the work.
Do I need a ball joint separator?



However, if you hit the knuckle where the ball joint is pressed into, you can free it without damaging it. That’s what I did.
Unless you are going to replace the tie rods/ball joints a separator is a good tool to have.
@TimC300 was nice enough to help me with sway bar spces in another thread.
If anyone has the WIS and tme to help, appreciate it in advance.




I cannot remember where I got those numbers from.
I believe the wis is AR33.15-P-0160CW and AR33.15-P-0161CW. Which I cannot find anywhere.
I am curious to see what they are also.
I cannot remember where I got those numbers from.
I believe the wis is AR33.15-P-0160CW and AR33.15-P-0161CW. Which I cannot find anywhere.
I am curious to see what they are also.
WE MANUFACTURE A “TOTAL SYSTEM”.
SEE LEAFLET / SPOILER ATTACHED !
Resolving costly, premature tire replacement. Allowing to be able to adjust front and rear tire contact angles / spread load more evenly. Or Track days - able to dial in “extra negative” Camber to significantly reduce understeer !
K-MAC HAS THE EXPERIENCE OF DESIGNING MANUFACTURING “UPRATED PERFORMANCE BUSHINGS AND ADJUSTER KITS” LONGER THEN ANY OTHER BRAND.
This combined with constant proving / developing on the race track - then proudly IN-HOUSE manufacture (not sourcing imports) allows total control over quality and rapid ongoing product development.
TO INSTALL ALL “FRONT & REAR” K-MAC ADJUSTER KITS INCLUDE BUSH EXTRACTION TOOLS SO NO SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED OR TIME CONSUMING NEED FOR CONTROL ARM REMOVAL.
What are the symptoms of a bad CV axle? The boots are not leaking.
Last edited by meazz1; Aug 30, 2024 at 06:17 PM.




I'm just throwing this out there but have you inspected the under trays? I was hearing a noise going over bumps I thought may be something with the suspension, turned out to be two screws holding the under tray below the transmission pan were missing and the plastic was clanking around. Its a hard plastic and sounded like metal clanking to me. On mine the screws and the metal clips that go into the frame of the car were missing. Even now i have a few fasteners under there that are rusted out and the brackets arent very secure. I picked up a few to replace them next time i go under there.




Just another guess.



What are the symptoms of a bad CV axle? The boots are not leaking.
I replaced the front sway bar that connects to the sway bar end links because it has bushings that are not replaceable at the mounting points. That’s my only other guess at metal on metal contact while driving. OR it could be the engine mounts and trans mount. That can create a metal on metal noise if the engine mounts are fully collapsed but you would notice that at idle.
ant
So, as @TimC300 suggested, I checked underneath and the trays are secured tight, no fastner is missing or loose.
Today being Saturday, I decided just to go any shop and have them put the car on the lift and take it from there. I ended up going to this place called Sonammo Auto in Duluth GA., I read good reviews but never been there before.
It took him less than a minute to find out that the left sway bar link bolt was loose.
I missed to tighten the bolt and Firestone's inspection also failed, ha ha.
But all good now, car runs so smooth and really handles better, or it's in my head, lol.




WE MANUFACTURE A “TOTAL SYSTEM”.
SEE LEAFLET / SPOILER ATTACHED !
Resolving costly, premature tire replacement. Allowing to be able to adjust front and rear tire contact angles / spread load more evenly. Or Track days - able to dial in “extra negative” Camber to significantly reduce understeer !
K-MAC HAS THE EXPERIENCE OF DESIGNING MANUFACTURING “UPRATED PERFORMANCE BUSHINGS AND ADJUSTER KITS” LONGER THEN ANY OTHER BRAND.
This combined with constant proving / developing on the race track - then proudly IN-HOUSE manufacture (not sourcing imports) allows total control over quality and rapid ongoing product development.
TO INSTALL ALL “FRONT & REAR” K-MAC ADJUSTER KITS INCLUDE BUSH EXTRACTION TOOLS SO NO SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED OR TIME CONSUMING NEED FOR CONTROL ARM REMOVAL.
I have a 2013 C250 Coupe with the Sports Package.






