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I just looked and I bought a 10 pack of the 2825LL since it was cheaper for the eyebrow bulbs. I still have two of the blue Mercedes bulbs that werent yet blown out, saved them anyways. I've had them in a few years now and no issues, just they appear a little brighter, or more yellowish I should say. I think FCP carries the blue bulbs.
Magnetic drain plug, sure if you want to. Means you will have to change the oil the regular way to see it instead of sucking the oil from the dipstick tube. I usually suck it out, with setting up my electric pump and the time spent waiting for all the oil to come out it probably takes the same amount of time as driving the car up on my ramps, removing the panels and draining the oil but I just think its easier plus less wear n tear on the undertray screws which seem to be getting looser. I've been going thru replacing some of the screws and clips since they seem to just spin and wont tighten.
I also leave my headlights on Auto or else the passenger parking lights will flash on and off during the night. I'm pretty sure its the switch is faulty but its too expensive in my opinion to replace. My switch doesnt appear to be that common so im only finding new for around $300 plus it seems to be discontinued. Now I also noticed if i do turn the headlights to on they wont turn on, I have to really turn the switch clockwise for them to stay on, can tell with the light turning green on the dash.
For your parking light warning you may have a bulb out in the eyebrow lights, there are two bulbs in there and it may be hard to tell if only one is out. Mine went like that, got a warning and one bulb was in fact out. Replacing them is a pain, used a long pair of needle nose pliars to be able to reach in and grab the bulb holder careful not to rip out the wires. I just replaced them with regular LL2825 bulbs instead of the special Mercedes blue tinted bulbs. They do look brighter than using the Mercedes bulbs but I dont care. After I got the car just for fun I bought and installed all new bulbs so hopefully i dont have to mess with them for a few years, I saved all the old bulbs in a small box in the trunk in case I need to replace one on the road so I dont have a reason to be pulled over.
AC I really have no experience. I would scan for any codes related to the AC/heating. I hardly ever use the AC, I prefer to have the sunroof and windows open. I do think it runs with the defrost setting, whenever i turn the defrost off I notice the AC button is always on red.
I didn't realize the eyebrow has 2 bulbs in them, that could be my issue. It does look like 1 on the drivers side is out. When I replaced one, I didn't see the location of the second one, I'm going to take a closer look. Does it look like I have 1 out on each side?
Today, while the car was parked I turned the wheel and it sounded like the the new strut was clicking when I turned the wheel. I wonder if I have to "break in" the new strut b/c this is a new sound. The sound only happens when I am parked turning or going very slowly. I check the CV boot today and it looks like there is no new grease leaking. Going to keep monitoring it. These are some photos of the Front drivers side wheel that had the negative camber fixed now, and how the car is fixed cosmetically. I still need to buff the headlight and paint the bumper better. Also Tim, I do the oil changes from the bottom on my back and its a pain the ***, what kind of pump and equipment would I need to start doing my oil changes from the top thru the the dipstick?
Last edited by Boston M Benz; 09-23-2024 at 04:00 PM.
I think I figured out what is wrong with the AC. I came across this video that is very interesting while researching. There's a bulletin on these cars that the low side hose is known to collapse on itself. Vehicles Affected: A-Class 169, B-Class 245, C-Class 203, C-Class 204, CL 216, CLK 207, CLK 209, CLS 219, E-Class 211, E-Class 212, GL 164, GLK 204, M-Class 164, R-Class 251, S-Class 221, SL 230 and SLK 171
Both eyebrow lights look like there is a bulb out to me. Outer bulb on driver and inner bulb on passenger side.
Clicking sound im not sure. Maybe try checking the top 3 mounting bolts on top of the strut in the engine bay. They should be 33nm. Could also remove the wheel and double check the spring, make sure it is seated where it should be. What brand struts are they?
I think your right, that's why I am getting the warning for the right and left parking lights, I got to see if I can access those light easily, going to check out some videos. I will take a look at the strut, not sure what brand but I will find out. I almost positive its the strut and not the axle. I will try to make a recording of the sound and post it here. Thanks for the info as always
Of course I jinxed myself. My car wouldn't start tonight after driving it today. I installed the 2 broken eyelid lights and after I went to start it and it was dead. I noticed it wasn't a strong start today and when I got home I opened the trunk, I read in the manual that for 1 hour after you open the trunk and lock the car, the emergency release light inside the trunk flashes, yes for 1 hour and Im guessing that combined with opening the doors was enough to kill the battery enough for it not to start. Needed to jump it. Any recommendations on a Battery for my 2010 C300 4matic Sport? How much should I expect to spend? I knew it was going, I should have done it while it was at the shop. Oh well, on the bright side I got the 2 eyelid bulbs fixed.
Last edited by Boston M Benz; 09-23-2024 at 10:54 PM.
Cheapest, decent quality battery I could find is from Costco, is a AGM for $165. Does this look like it will fit? Im having trouble finding what size I need after seraching for an hour, it seems unclear - is it H6 or H7? I have AAA and they can deliver and install one for ~$245 not sure what brand though. When I search for batteries it says Auxiliary, Optional, Standard 1, and Standard 2 and both Costco and AAA had 0 results for Standard 1 but had one option for Standard 2 batteries, not sure what that means. Last thing is that I heard MB roadside assistance will deliver and install an OEM battery for just the cost of the battery, even if you don't have the service or a warranty, not sure if there is any truth to that. Appreciate all the help guys, I dont have any friends that are "car guys" nevermind into German
cars.
H6 is the smaller of the two batteries listed for your car. If you’re going to install it yourself, you can remove the air plenum to see the battery and the amp-hour rating will be on top. H6 is usually 70-75 Ah. H7 is usually 80-85 Ah. Either would work, but I wouldn’t want to go smaller in Boston winters.
If Tim answers back, he can tell you what’s in his C300. Otherwise, you can call your dealer’s parts counter with your VIN for a “price check” and they can tell you what amp-hour rating belongs in your car.
The AAA battery will probably be made by East Penn.
Mine has the H7 battery 0009823208. When my battery went I looked around and the cheapest I was finding was actually at my local MB dealer, I paid $201.25 + $29 refundable core charge. It came with a 2yr warranty. Since then I realized they carry H7 agm batteries at my local Walmart and I think they have 4yr warranty, plus I dont think there is a core charge. If my battery went today I would probably go to Walmart based on price and warranty..
On my battery negative post is a date of manufacture stamped just to see how old it is.
I looked and an H7 at Mercedes of Boston is now $214 + $18 core charge.
If you do have the H6 battery it looks like its the same price at Walmart. I looked up what the 4yr warranty includes and it appears if there is an issue with the battery you can go to a Walmart that has an auto center and they will test the battery, if its faulty they give you a new battery. So you can buy the battery at any store, if there is an issue down the road you have to find one with an auto center so they can test it. I'd save a copy of the receipt in your glove box in case.
From reading others posts on Walmart and Everstart batteries Walmart seems pretty good with honoring the warranty.
Changing the battery is fairly easy. Theres one bolt on the right side down by the base of the battery, long extension and either 10mm or 13mm socket. Not sure how important it is but in instructions I have it says to disconnect the battery sensor before disconnecting the negative cable from the battery. Remove negative then positive cables, the nut on the positive cable on mine will not fully unscrew. Remove the old battery and clean everything up, looked like some kind of animal nest in mine. Make sure to transfer the vent tube on the left side of the battery.
I was thinking and is there a need to replace the battery? Sure it was dead and needed a jump but there seems to be a reason, the light was left on. i would charge up the battery and check it. I have a Noco Genius 5 charger that I use to charge the battery once a week. Because i dont put many miles on it I feel better charging once a week, hopefully keeps the battery in its best condition.
I replaced my old battery because it wouldn't hold a charge and kept having to jump it every single time. Then I looked and noticed the manufacture date showed it was 7yrs old so figured its best to replace. This was before I got the Noco charger, if I had it i would have even tried to use the "repair" mode to see if i could get a few more weeks or months out of it, or at least enough time to properly search for a battery.
I was thinking and is there a need to replace the battery? Sure it was dead and needed a jump but there seems to be a reason, the light was left on. i would charge up the battery and check it. I have a Noco Genius 5 charger that I use to charge the battery once a week. Because i dont put many miles on it I feel better charging once a week, hopefully keeps the battery in its best condition.
I replaced my old battery because it wouldn't hold a charge and kept having to jump it every single time. Then I looked and noticed the manufacture date showed it was 7yrs old so figured its best to replace. This was before I got the Noco charger, if I had it i would have even tried to use the "repair" mode to see if i could get a few more weeks or months out of it, or at least enough time to properly search for a battery.
Thanks for all the info. With the winter coming, I want to have a good battery, I know this battery is old, prob close to 10 years and will check when I replace it! Ive had to jump it several times over the last few months just b/c I was working on it and left the door open for 5-10 mins.
With that said what charger do you recommend? I am parked in a garage overnight so I dont mind plugging it in at night once a week.
A charge might work but I feel with winter coming, I dont want to get stuck somewhere with a dead battery. I went to costco and they said to get the Interstate H8(49) AGM group 36 for $170 plus tax plus $15 core - even though last night the Costco battery website suggested an H6 (they are the same price) which I think is strange. 36 month warranty. Its VERY heavy, prob 75 lbs and is large, Im hoping it fits right. I questioned the salesman and he said it would fit. it measures approx. 14inches X 7.5 inchs
If it does fit, do you know if it would be safe to use? I think its more powerful than the MB battery I have in there and the one you have.
Last edited by Boston M Benz; 09-24-2024 at 07:11 PM.
Here is 2 videos of the noise I believe my strut is making when I turn the wheel parked or at low speed. Any thoughts? Kind of sounds like a drum. Do you think its the strut or could it be the axle maybe? That's the only 2 things that were worked on last week.
H6 is the smaller of the two batteries listed for your car. If you’re going to install it yourself, you can remove the air plenum to see the battery and the amp-hour rating will be on top. H6 is usually 70-75 Ah. H7 is usually 80-85 Ah. Either would work, but I wouldn’t want to go smaller in Boston winters.
If Tim answers back, he can tell you what’s in his C300. Otherwise, you can call your dealer’s parts counter with your VIN for a “price check” and they can tell you what amp-hour rating belongs in your car.
The AAA battery will probably be made by East Penn.
Piggy, do you think the H8 (49) is too large and/or too powerful for what I need? Its the same price at costco.
H7 DIMENSIONS: 12 3/8 x 6 7/8 x 7 1/2 inches
H8 DIMENSIONS: 13.94 x 6.94 x 7.50"
Last edited by Boston M Benz; 09-24-2024 at 07:19 PM.
I went with the Noco Genius 5 based on the positive reviews. I got it on Amazon "Used-like new" for a very low price. I had originally bought the Genius 1 and while it worked it took way too long, had to leave it plugged in over night which I didnt want to do with having an extension cord run to my car. The Genius 5 take around 3hrs from when I hook it up to when its flashing green all charged up. Most of that time it seems to be "conditioning' the battery whatever that is. I have the harness hardwired in the car so i just run an extension cord, plug in the charger and close the hood. It doesnt get hot so im not worried about it starting a fire.
Theres alot of chargers on Amazon I just dont have any experience with anything other than the Noco.
The Genius 10 has a setting to use it as a 10amp power supply which is a good feature, if i didnt already have a 10 amp power supply I would have picked the Genius 10 for that feature. Its good for running things on 12v like air pumps and my electric fluid pump for oil changes.
I do recommend hard wiring in the harness or else you will have to remove the air box above the battery every time you want to connect it to the battery, thats why I did it. I connected the positive to the positve battery post and I connected the ground to where the battery ground cable connects to the car in the engine bay. I read it is best to not connect the ground directly to the battery. I dont have a garage so I fish the extension cord thru the grill, place the charger in back of the passenger headlight then im able to close the hood. I just dont feel comfortable leaving the hood open especially in bad weather.
Damn thats a nice setup for the charger. I use the car battery to power lights sometimes and I used it to test my secondary pump when I was installing the new one, its nice having that positive hookup outside the box. Did you get a chance to check out those videos I posted about the drum sound when turning my wheel?
What kind of pump and equipment do I need to do the suction oil change? I want to start doing that.
I called Costco to see if they have the H7 Interstate battery to swap out and they do, its the same price $170. The H8 I got is 1.5 inches longer and with the air vent plug on the side of the battery, I'm afraid it might not fit.
I watched the videos and not really sure what the noise is. i wonder if it is steering related, something got knocked around. jack the car up with the wheels off the ground, have someone turn the steering wheel while under the car looking for anything out of place moving.
I just use a 12v electric fluid pump. I got it for free awhile back so tried it out and it works fine. I see them on Amazon on sale all the time so i wouldnt spend more than $20 for one. One important thing is to get the oil heated up so it doesnt take forever to suck it out. Drive the car around the block.
I like the electric pump because it doesnt take up much room, fits in a small box out of the way. If i had a big garage I would probably get one of those large extractors. The electric pump comes with battery clamps to run it off the car battery which I didnt like so I installed connectors so i can use clamps, a 12v socket or even 3.5mm plug. I've run it off my battery booster pack until i bought a 12v 10 amp power supply. The pump says its 5amps but I needed a 10 amp power supply for it to run. I bought a rubber stopper at Lowes and drilled a hole thru it that I stuck the suction tube thru so it creates a tight seal at the top of the dipstick tube. I stick the suction tube down the same length as the diptsick.
Damn that looks really easy to do, I'm going to look into it. My only question is what is the diameter of the hose? Im guessing it has to be pretty small to get down thru the disptick hole.
I emailed the repair shop about that noise my brand new strut is making, I believe it is a bad strut mount from a video I found of YouTube, same sound. Not sure if it is something I should be concerned about but I figured Id ask the man that did the repair. Thanks
I plan on testing my old battery this weekend to see what kind of volts in pulling. I read turn the headlights on for 2 minutes on a cold engine and hook up the the multimeter. I healthy battery at 100% is 12.4 - 12.6+ V, between 12V - 12.4 is 60% and under 10 volts the battery is dead. If the battery is healthy, Im going to have my buddy start the car while im reading the Volts. If it dips below 8 to 10 volts on crank, the battery is bad.
Last edited by Boston M Benz; 09-25-2024 at 09:28 PM.
I plan on testing my old battery this weekend to see what kind of volts in pulling. I read turn the headlights on for 2 minutes on a cold engine and hook up the the multimeter. I healthy battery at 100% is 12.4 - 12.6+ V, between 12V - 12.4 is 60% and under 10 volts the battery is dead. If the battery is healthy, Im going to have my buddy start the car while im reading the Volts. If it dips below 8 to 10 volts on crank, the battery is bad.
Just offering my 2 bits. This is a valid method to test a battery, with some caveats. This will test a battery’s ability to get the car started, but won’t test its capacity. All tests should be done at the battery terminals to eliminate any resistance between other test points and the battery.
The headlights on for 2 minutes is to remove any surface charge from the battery so your low/no load test is valid. This is easy.
Measuring the voltage while cranking is a good high load test, but two things could interfere with getting a good measurement. This test was originally designed to be done on older cars with the ignition coil lead pulled out of the center of the distributor so that the engine didn’t start. 1-This isn’t possible on newer cars. A Mercedes may start so quickly a standard meter is very hard to read accurately. 2-The starter turning causes the voltage to pulsate. Even if the car doesn’t start right away, it can be hard to determine an average reading.
Don’t repeat the starter test more than about 3 times before waiting about 10 minutes. Repeated tries are hard on both the starter and the battery.
8 volts is far too low on the starter test. Stick with the 10 volts as a minimum. [The Mercedes criterion is quite conservative and requires 10.8 volts against a 500 amp load. Only a fairly new battery will pass that and it will kill an older battery]. For the starter test, I just do it once and use a minimum reading DVM looking for between 10-11 volts.
Good points, thanks for the info. My battery has been working just fine these last few days. I wonder if I just need to charge it. I think it died a few days ago b/c I turned the headlights on a different setting than auto and since changing it back to auto and leaving it here, it seems to play plenty of juice to start the car.
I replaced my last battery because it would not hold a charge. I would have to use my jumper daily. Plus it was 7yrs old.
I bought an inexpensive battery tester since then. It was less than $20 and I dont know how accurate it is but it seems to work. I actually have two battery testers, got an Ancel tester that works off bluetooth, i use that to leave hooked to the battery as I drive around and it tells me the voltage which is handy. The Ancel doesnt seem accurate since I cant input what type of battery it is, I think it just gives generic readings. The Konnwei at least lets me type in what type of battery it is, shows the state of charge and state of health. Just gives me an idea if the battery is good or bad.
In terms of good chargers, I use a Noco genius as well. I have three v8 engines with big batteries. You want a charger that doesn’t take 24 hr to charge. you also want one that offers the repair mode or “desulphate” mode.
In terms of size, always install the biggest battery that fits and comes with the longest warranty. Most batteries are sealed these days so they can not be maintained as easily as in the past. Both my 63 and my lx, I went up a size than was stock. That you are in a cold climate, makes the choice for higher cca a no brainer. Check its fit before returning. Smaller batteries with short warranties are just part of the scam to make our cars unreliable and addicted to repair.
Charging a battery once a week is silly. Either leave it on a trickle charger, or drive it. A trickle charger is not for recharging or repairing but maintaining.
An old battery is time for replacement. Its only a matter of time with cold weather coming. They don’t make batteries that last that long anymore, like a panasonic brand battery.
Last edited by Baltistyle; 09-26-2024 at 08:29 PM.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by Boston M Benz
Thanks for the info and part #s. So my insurance wants to "total loss - repairable" the car off of the visual damage alone. I am keeping the car as the salvage price is only $1038. The bumper, headlight, fender and a couple other small parts were less than $1000 so I figure it was worth it to fix it as it still runs great. You think the grease coming out of the CV boot is dangerous issue, i think its missing an outer clip? I'm pretty sure that was happening before the accident.
Not sure if this has been asked and answered, but why are you going through your insurance? I assume the other party was determined to be at fault. Their insurance company is on the hook for making you whole. If you keep the car by buying back at the salvage price, there is a good chance your title will now be marked "Salvage" and you may get virtually nothing if you decide to sell it in the future.
09-23-2024, 03:44 PM
