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Hello, I got hit directly on the drivers side headlight by a 16 year old with his learners permit, he was going probably 5-10mphs tops. I was stopped at a red light and he crossed into my lane. Fast forward, I fixed all the cosmetic stuff but now I have a negative wheel camber. The 2010 c300 4matic sport still drive great and steers pretty much 90% straight (it will definitely need an alignment) with a slight pull to the right on certain roads. Any ideas on what it will cost to fix this? Nothing appears to be bent, control arms and strut look good for a 15 years old car. Could it be a knuckle or tie rod? Maybe it is a control arm as the are hard to tell if they are bent because they are naturally curved. I will attach some photos, Also, does anyone know a good place to get it looked NORTH of BOSTON, Massachusetts
First thing that pops out is the leaking CV axle outer boot that needs to be addressed. I would say get that fixed first, you dont want that failing while driving. I have a pin hole in one of my outer boots and plan on replacing it, the parts were only $16 at the MB dealer for new boot, clapmps and snap ring, plus you will need new grease.
I'm near Boston but unfortunately do not know any shops, i've always worked on my own vehicles. If I needed an alignment I would probably take it to my local MB dealer. I had new tires put on this summer and the old tires looked great for wear so I didint bother getting an alignment. Recently checked and the new tires are wearing fine. From what I can tell at least with my 4matic there is no way to really align it, the front anyways. Maybe at the tie rods but isnt that if the tires point left/right?
I found something about camber. It shows special bolts. But if your car was fine before the accident then I would probably just replace the cross strut.
Agree completely with @TimC300 get everything up to spec. Then have alignment checked. If the available adjustments can’t correct the camber issue, then there was something else bent or misaligned. An experienced MB alignment specialist will know what to check.
I never had this issue on my C250 , but did with other cars. One place to check is the mounting for all the suspension components. Sometimes all that’s needed is to loosen and retighten the mounting bolts to allow them to recenter. Then do an alignment. If the unibody structure is actually deformed a frame shop can get everything back to spec. Don’t fall for the “Your frame is bent; that can’t be fixed; you need a new car” routine. Dealers may use that to get you into negotiations for a 2024-2025, when your (or the 16 year old’s) insurer will cover most of the cost.
Thanks for the info and part #s. So my insurance wants to "total loss - repairable" the car off of the visual damage alone. I am keeping the car as the salvage price is only $1038. The bumper, headlight, fender and a couple other small parts were less than $1000 so I figure it was worth it to fix it as it still runs great. You think the grease coming out of the CV boot is dangerous issue, i think its missing an outer clip? I'm pretty sure that was happening before the accident.
How much if you had to guess to fix that wheel camber issue? Here are so photos of the accident before and after. All the headlights and side markers work, no check engine lights etc. I had to pull the bumper panel out a few inches and repair the washer fluid tank(had a small hole). I think it came out pretty good, just need to paint the bumper and polish + 2x the headlight. The fender i got from a junk yard.
Last edited by Boston M Benz; 08-27-2024 at 05:04 PM.
I would not drive the car with that amount of grease that leaked out. I think it could get pretty bad without grease and that joint locked up while driving, chance of damaging the front diff and even the transmission.
Probably should be removed, everything cleaned and repacked with grease. If the boot is still good you may be able to remove the large clamp, pull back the boot and clean out all the old grease and pack new grease in then put new clamps on without removing the axle. The clamps just pull apart so you can fit them over the axle.
Im looking at the photos and wondering if the strut is bent? In the photo is that a bend/ridge in the face of the strut?
Tim, the strut has a "ridge " built into it. Yours should have it too I believe. Below the circle there is little bit of rubbing from some tires I put on that were too wide, I only drove up and down the driveway but I think a little bit of rubber came off. As far as the boot, do you think it would noticeable if there wasn't enough grease, like a scraping sound? I'm pretty sure the outer clip fell off, If i put a clip back on, how to i regrease the boot, is there a hole or do i just push/squeeze it in there from the outer side?
Check that he did not bend the subframe where the arms are connected (yes, these parts do bend in accidents)
I’ve done these restorations on a number of vehicles. Dodges, Fords, Mitsubishis, Jeeps, just not Mercedes. But all unibody vehicles are similar. If the mounting points were bent, it might be as simple as adding a washer or square spacer under the arm that took the impact. A good alignment shop (not the dealer, in this case) can do that. Cost is insignificant.
If the subframe was knocked out of alignment, it will take point to point measurements on the diagonal and a frame rack to fix it. You’ll find these kinds of shops in the commercial areas where work equipment and medium duty trucks are serviced. Cost to rack (straighten) and stabilize (spot welding & plates) a bent structure could be $500-$900. Worst case would be if a front end crumple zone was bent. That can’t be repaired without compromising vehicle safety. That has to be fixed by replacing with an undamaged part from a salvage.
But start with the alignment. That’s the place that can tell you what’s needed.
Your biggest challenge may be finding the right shops. If you have a contact who works for someone who has a fleet of light duty trucks like a utility, they could help.
Odd Piggy, ty for the info. I do not think the frame was damaged but you're right I am going to have to have it looked at to know for sure. You think it could be possible that an alignment could fix it? I do need to address the CV boot aswell. I am tempted to do the work myself but I haven't done a job like that before and don't really want to mess around with a safety issue. With that said, I don't want to spend a lot because while it runs great and only has 88k miles, it is 15 years and MB are notorious $$ to fix just b/c the name I guess. I mean it just a car at the end of the day. Man the cost of cars, both new and used is crazy right now in the Boston, MA area. I found out that Used Toyota Camrys are selling for more than used C-Classes! I am taking guessed right now, what is the over/under on this repair? Is $1500 way to low in your opinion? Thanks
Now that the W204s are aging, their resale value depends more on mileage than on age. You only have 88k, so it’s less than half used. But you’re gonna have to get the tools to do easy-medium repairs yourself to keep the costs down AND get really serious about all the routine maintenance beyond oil changes. Benzes will last just as long as Toyotas, but Toyotas do it without much maintenance.
An alignment shop (not a tire store or the dealer) that does actual suspension work could conceivably fix every thing for a few hundred more than the alignment alone. Bent mounting points can usually be fixed with washers and spacers. That’s a valid repair, not a “make-do.” If it will align within specs, it’s good for the duration.
@TimC300 is one of the best emerging resources for W204s. If the CV is not making noise and you don’t want to replace it, you really need to get that boot repaired. [TimC300 has shown you the parts. The kit costs about $50 and I recommend getting the ring crimpers for about another $15. Harbor Freight is your friend for low use tools like that.] Weather and grime are going to quickly ruin it. The problem is that’s gonna take about ⅔ as much effort as putting in a new one. There are 2 piece boots out there that don’t require disassembling the hub, but I’ve tried them and have never had any luck. They just don’t stay together.
As long as you don’t wind up needing to go searching for salvage frame pieces, I would be surprised if you spend the whole $1500.
Great, thank you for your insight, this is great info. I was going to bring it to my regular mechanic/tire shop place that is known to have an honest reputation but I think I am going to search for a good alignment shop. Around here, mechanics are just part changers and they don't want to fix things that can just be replaced. I'm going to say a pray and hope this works out without blowing a check. I am going to address that CV boot and I completely agree, @TimC300 is a legend around here, while I don't post a lot, I have read countless threads written by him among others like yourself. Thanks again, I will keep you post just incase youre interested.
UPDATE: I was looking at some photos from my other CV boot and I think i found out why it is leaking. Looks like there is a black clamp that goes around it, and it has fallen off. Does that seem correct? If i was to get that clamp, how would i go about getting new grease inside the boot? Maybe put the grease in some kind of flat, narrow tip squirt container ? I have no idea. lol
Last edited by Boston M Benz; 08-28-2024 at 02:18 AM.
UPDATE: I was looking at some photos from my other CV boot and I think i found out why it is leaking. Looks like there is a black clamp that goes around it, and it has fallen off. Does that seem correct? If i was to get that clamp, how would i go about getting new grease inside the boot? Maybe put the grease in some kind of flat, narrow tip squirt container ? I have no idea. lol
Auto parts stores sell big syringes with long blunt needles just for this purpose. The other option would be a small single handed grease gun with a pistol grip.
Great, thank you for your insight, this is great info. I was going to bring it to my regular mechanic/tire shop place that is known to have an honest reputation but I think I am going to search for a good alignment shop. Around here, mechanics are just part changers and they don't want to fix things that can just be replaced. I'm going to say a pray and hope this works out without blowing a check. I am going to address that CV boot and I completely agree, @TimC300 is a legend around here, while I don't post a lot, I have read countless threads written by him among others like yourself. Thanks again, I will keep you post just incase youre interested.
Is the mechanic at the tire shop someone you can speak to or is the work done on a rotating basis: car in -> next available mechanic -> car out? If you can talk to him, he probably knows who can do the work, and he probably knows enough to determine if it’s just a bent arm or not. Sorry that I can’t make recommendations for Boston. I only know Louisiana and East Texas. But it’s a big metro area and there’s got to be people available.
Is the mechanic at the tire shop someone you can speak to or is the work done on a rotating basis: car in -> next available mechanic -> car out? If you can talk to him, he probably knows who can do the work, and he probably knows enough to determine if it’s just a bent arm or not. Sorry that I can’t make recommendations for Boston. I only know Louisiana and East Texas. But it’s a big metro area and there’s got to be people available.
I believe its a rotation, my family has been using them for 10+ years including business vehicles. they have a good rep. I guess all I can do is see what they say. I dont really want to be be driving the car around much if my CV boot is leaking. I also need 2 front tires. I had put on a pair of rear tires on the front from another c300 (17x8.5) with 20mm spacers that I had bought, they wont fit on the front without the spacers and I am not crazy about using spacers but its take or the donut. one of my tires was ruined during the accident but I needed new fronts anyways. I have a feeling they are going to want to replace the CV axle and boot completely, plus 2 tires, thats probably a grand right there, then fixing camber. I think im going to bring it in tomorrow. These guys usually take a week or 2, sometimes longer
Now that the W204s are aging, their resale value depends more on mileage than on age. You only have 88k, so it’s less than half used. But you’re gonna have to get the tools to do easy-medium repairs yourself to keep the costs down AND get really serious about all the routine maintenance beyond oil changes. Benzes will last just as long as Toyotas, but Toyotas do it without much maintenance.
An alignment shop (not a tire store or the dealer) that does actual suspension work could conceivably fix every thing for a few hundred more than the alignment alone. Bent mounting points can usually be fixed with washers and spacers. That’s a valid repair, not a “make-do.” If it will align within specs, it’s good for the duration.
@TimC300 is one of the best emerging resources for W204s. If the CV is not making noise and you don’t want to replace it, you really need to get that boot repaired. [TimC300 has shown you the parts. The kit costs about $50 and I recommend getting the ring crimpers for about another $15. Harbor Freight is your friend for low use tools like that.] Weather and grime are going to quickly ruin it. The problem is that’s gonna take about ⅔ as much effort as putting in a new one. There are 2 piece boots out there that don’t require disassembling the hub, but I’ve tried them and have never had any luck. They just don’t stay together.
As long as you don’t wind up needing to go searching for salvage frame pieces, I would be surprised if you spend the whole $1500.
The front subframe can be found from a donor car for <$400. It is somewhat labor intensive due to removing the axles, but it is not necessarily difficult. A shop however, will charge quite a bit to do the job. This is all easier/cheaper if it is not a 4matic.
As of now it is just to inspect these points. The w204 has two front "wings" on the subframe that can bend in an accident.
Originally Posted by TimC300
The photo with the grease is not too clear. I cant tell if the clamp is still there and its the boot that tore apart?
It looks like the end of the boot where the clamp was it torn, not simply a missing clamp (unless the photo is deceiving).
If yours is an 08-11 4matic, we have a front single side boot kit (boot, clamp, grease, bolt) for $30 shipped CONUS.
....have alignment checked. If the available adjustments can’t correct the camber issue....
DO POINT OUT W204 MODELS - HAVING NO OEM CAMBER ADJUSTMENT WHATSOEVER (FRONT OR REAR) - You can fit offset camber bolts (front only) - But they only offer a miniscule .3 of one degree adjustment.
WE THEREFORE MANUFACTURE BOLT-ON ADJUSTER KITS (no special tools required to fit or time consuming need for arm removal) providing up to 2 degrees Positive or Negative Camber change.
They’re precise single wrench adjustable 0 Easily accessible and direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD !
FRONT Priced from $345 (Both Sides).
See SPOILER RE TOTAL SYSTEM manufactured for all W204 models.
The reason I think the clamp came off is b/c you can see the silver colored metal thru the grease. I think the clamp normally covers that part but I will take a closer look when I have the wheels off.
As far as the wheel, perhaps the "wings" that @Elemento Tuning mentioned on the front left wheel got bent. It is a 2010 C300 4matic Sport. The impact was his car coming from his lane into mine as he was straightening out so its wasn't quite head on but almost. I'm thinking it might have been the wings as none of the other components that I can see from the wheel well look bent or damaged. He was driving a Subaru Forester which is like a smaller SUV so the impact may have also been down, pinning my car down a bit, with enough force to blow a tire. This could explain the negative camber. If its the subframe its probably going to cost thousands before the 2 front tires and alignment, I might have to consider junking it or selling it as is and buy a different car. Well this sucks, love the car
Don’t give up yet. Remember, if it will align, it’s okay. It might take something like what K-Mac sells, or maybe a new upper arm, but wait and see.
Our Jeep Grand Cherokee had a very similar collision and we bought it back like you did and fixed it. Our Mitsubishi Eclipse didn’t have collision insurance and it was run off the road ripping off all 4 wheels. It looked ready for the crusher, but we salvaged it.
I don’t know how MA titles work, but many state DMVs get notices from insurers on vehicles they total. An economic total like yours may get a flag to require proof of reconditioning to sell.
If you need some tires I can recommend some inexpensive ones. I recently bought 4 new tires off Amazon, Summit Ultramax HP. Was around $310 for 4 tires then $25/tire install. The tires are great in my opinion, car drives great. Though the tire shop I had them installed at broke two of my center caps and glued them back on without even bothering to tell me, but that has nothing to do with the tires themselves, just dont go to Monroe in Hanover.
The reason I think the clamp came off is b/c you can see the silver colored metal thru the grease. I think the clamp normally covers that part but I will take a closer look when I have the wheels off.
As far as the wheel, perhaps the "wings" that @Elemento Tuning mentioned on the front left wheel got bent. It is a 2010 C300 4matic Sport. The impact was his car coming from his lane into mine as he was straightening out so its wasn't quite head on but almost. I'm thinking it might have been the wings as none of the other components that I can see from the wheel well look bent or damaged. He was driving a Subaru Forester which is like a smaller SUV so the impact may have also been down, pinning my car down a bit, with enough force to blow a tire. This could explain the negative camber. If its the subframe its probably going to cost thousands before the 2 front tires and alignment, I might have to consider junking it or selling it as is and buy a different car. Well this sucks, love the car
I had that part bent and bought one off of Facebook marketplace for $100. It was better condition than my original (as you know the subframes, primarily the rear, are a rust weakness on these cars). I had the shop install it but I will say what I paid is not the norm so no point in mentioning that part. Engine needs to be slightly lifted, and axles removed to swap.
Even if you wanted to keep the subframe and pull it to spec, they'd still have to remove the same components, at least on the one side.
If you can get under the car and take a good look at the subframe you'll be able to see if there's a bend (covers removed)
I might have to buy those tires, they want to sell me Michelins for $250 a pieces I need to 2 fronts. So I dropped the car off this week and they are 2 weeks out. Honest place, they are always super busy so I left it there hoping they can do it sooner. They are going to look at it and let me know what's wrong. I told them the boot was leaking grease and to check the camber. Ill post once they call me. Thanks for all the info guys
I had that part bent and bought one off of Facebook marketplace for $100. It was better condition than my original (as you know the subframes, primarily the rear, are a rust weakness on these cars). I had the shop install it but I will say what I paid is not the norm so no point in mentioning that part. Engine needs to be slightly lifted, and axles removed to swap.
Even if you wanted to keep the subframe and pull it to spec, they'd still have to remove the same components, at least on the one side.
If you can get under the car and take a good look at the subframe you'll be able to see if there's a bend (covers removed)
How much did you pay for the subframe repair? If they quote me a crazy price I will ask if I can provide the part, even on ebay its cheap like $200 from a Cali salvage yard,
08-27-2024, 02:32 AM
